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Chevy Suburban Maintenance and Repair



  • spence57spence57 Posts: 26
    Hitting bottom of tank has allowed me to start vehicle. Parts dept. suggested cleaner they sell for cleaning fuel level sensor contacts. GM built lag into fuel gauge so it would buffer temporary sensor changes with sloshing and hills. I believe that the computer is shutting off the pump because a dirty fuel sensor gives an empty tank reading and the gauge may show only "less" fuel because it's buffered. Banging on the tank must move the sensor to a clean spot. The "oxidation/dirt might be caused by water in the fuel which might add to the problems". My problems were most serious after I put fuel from my boat's fuel tank into the suburban. Doubt that it's bad wiring cause I always hear pump noise for a few seconds.
  • I just found out today my front axle seals are also leaking. The dealership quoted me $360 for parts and labor. What did they quote you? Is this a repair that's possible for a DIY? I can't entirely afford $360 right now.
  • Take a look at your security system, I know it sounds crazy, but that's what mine is doing. Below are some words from someone else's post and mine is doing the same thing. As long as that security light is flashing, mine won't start. After a while when the security light stops flashing, it starts just fine. I really thought it was a fuel problem because it acted like it was going to start, sputtered and like it wasn't getting enough fuel. Changed everything to do with the fuel system (Fuel pump, Fuel filter, etc.), same problem and then I noticed that every time I had this problem starting the security light was blinking. I haven't work on the security system yet, but I'll let you know when I do or if you get your fixed, you can let me know. Hope this helps and points you in the right direction. Good Luck!!

    we have a 1999 chevy suburban with the security system in it. the other day after starting the suburban the security light in the dash stayed on for about 5 min and everything was fine. now sometimes when i go to start it it turns over and tries to start but the security light is flashing and it won't start. let it set for about 5 - 10 min and it will start fine. is there any one that knows of how to check the system and see what is wrong with it? thanks for any help.
  • ahightowerahightower DFWPosts: 431
    My 2005 Yukon XL is due for the 25K service, which includes:

    "Exhaust System Inspection
    Inspect exhaust system for loose or damaged components.

    Fuel System Inspection
    Inspect fuel system for damage or leaks."

    I haven't seen any posts that either of these systems are prone to defects. This isn't even really a "Service", i.e., repair or replacement of parts - it's just a visual inspection, right? I tend to obey the manual, better safe than sorry, but I don't necessarily want to pay a lot for this. I guess I'll just call the dealership when my next oil change is due and get a quote.
  • ksmockksmock Posts: 2
    I also have a 97 sub with a 7.4 liter and it sounds like i have the same problem. Have you had this fixed yet? And if you did what was the problem? Any help would be greatly apreciated. :)
  • rockman59rockman59 Posts: 250
    ahightower said: I haven't seen any posts that either of these systems are prone to defects. This isn't even really a "Service", i.e., repair or replacement of parts - it's just a visual inspection, right?
    Correct, a visual inspection. Should take a qualified mechanic about 60 seconds.
  • seabyrdseabyrd Posts: 32
    I am trying to locate the AIT Module "Air Intake Module" on the 2007 Z71 Suburban. I have not been able to locate it.
    Can anyone please help me?
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Posts: 107
    hi again, im back with my 1988 suburban. she aint doin too well right now. lately it has been running extremely rough, and i have very little power. if i floor it it shudders. when idling, it runs very choppy and cuts out. when i accelerate it gets choppier and shudders more. sometimes when i start it it runs smooth, but then after a while fades into running like crap. it's a progressive thing, its getting worse and worse. ive had it quit running before. anyone suggest a step i can take and what to start with? problematic vehicle i own.
  • spence57spence57 Posts: 26
    A car needs fuel, air, and a spark to burn them at the proper time. Make sure the sparks okay, then the timing and the fuel volume and pressure. I presume you've checked the filter. It's possible that dirt is being sucked onto the surface of the fuel screen in the tank and it drops off when the fuel pump stops. You could pipe the gas line to a gas can and see if it falters after a while. It could be you have a lot of water in the tank. Could be a loose fitting on the pump intake side causes it to suck air or an electrical fitting has a poor connection that handicaps the ignition or the fuel pump.
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Posts: 107
    thanks! are you speaking of the air filter, or the fuel filter? the air filter is new. i should also mention that it is a throttle body fuel injected engine. when the head gasket blew, most in the engine was replaced, wires, plugs, and such, but not the distributor. the next step i was planning on , for ease and price, is the fuel filters or possibly replacing the fuel pump. good place to go? or should i look more deeply such as the injectors or something of the sort.
  • talltreetalltree Posts: 2
    I just purchased an 01 Suburban and the daytime running lights (right beside the parking lights) were burnt out. I've replaced the bulbs with no luck, I've switched the relay and fuse in the box under the hood with others in the box with no luck also. I thought these lights were supposed to come on during the day with the engine running.

    Any ideas why these aren't working?


    P.s. I didn't get this in the right area.
  • nikkianikkia Posts: 2
    Have a '96 1500 4x4 suburban. Check engine light came on, and was told it needed O2 sensors. Cleared code and continued to drive. Drove fine. One day while leaving for lunch just started running rough. Losing power and idling rough. Took to shop and was told it needed replacing all 4 O2 sensors, replace PCV valve which was missing causing smoke, new plugs and wires, and adjust timing. Replaced everything they said except for timing and it is now running 50% better, but not back to normal. Took to another shop, and was told that there was a misfire on cylinders 3&4, new plugs were just put in 3 days ago. Only drove to shop and already fouled out. Also told leaking oil from lower intake valve and manifold appears warped, they put smoke in it and it is coming out of the front and the back. 1. Does fixing these things sound like my truck will run right? 2. To fix the oil leak is that gaskets? 3. Can injectors be cleaned, or do I need to replace them? 4. Can I only replace 2 or do I have to replace all? 5. How do you fix a slightly warped manifold?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Have exact same vehicle, with about 90K miles. It would be unusual for all the O2 sensors to fail at the same time. Each side of the engine has it's own catalytic converter, and there is a sensor before and after each converter. Do you know what the first error code was? If it was an O2 failure code, it would point specifically to one of the four (bank 0 or bank 1, first or second sensor on that bank.

    I also recently just changed plugs, wires, distributor cap, and rotor....just as normal maintenance.

    When they took your old plugs out, did they look okay, or were some fouled? If the originals were fouled #3/#4, then you probably have a more serious problem as they suggest, possibly a blown head gasket between 3/4. Not sure how they would indicate a warped manifold....unless they have taken your engine apart to check. If your old plugs were okay, and now you have 2 plugs fouling I would suspect a problem with their plug/wire change.....or with the old distributor cap and rotor, since you didn't indicate they changed that. Did you replace the plugs and wires with factory Delco?

    How is it that the PCV valve was missing?
  • nikkianikkia Posts: 2
    Replaced dis cap & rotor prev with plugs right before problems started. After problems started check plugs and they were burnt and was told to replace them so we did and the wires. We were told that the engine was of timing from when new dist was put on, but not badly off timing. When we put on this last round of plugs we didn't replace cap&rotar again. They checked plugs and said that 2 of them were fouled and didn't replace with factory, used some from Auto Zone. Code read that only 2 of O2 sensors were bad, but was advised to change all so we did.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Did you gap the plugs at 60 thousand when you put them in? and are you sure that the brand plug you put in are technically equivalent to Chevy spec's for the plug? How many miles were on the first set of replacement plugs, before you found them burnt?
  • spence57spence57 Posts: 26
    Haven't noticed the security system. Is that just a light? Have noticed that occasionly the tranny trailer mode light will turn on by itself.

    Tried the "sulfer remover"liquid from the dealer but I still have the "won't start on much less than 1/2 tank if it's set for over 8 hour" problem. One good bang on the tank starts it though. It hasn't died in transit for a couple months.
  • jswintjswint Posts: 1
    I am trying to see if the sparkplugs are bad on my truck. When the truck is on idile and my foot is on the brake, it acts like it is going to die but doesnt. It is idiling very low. If that is the problem, How hard is it to change them myself ? Is there any special tool that I need ? I really dont know too much about cars, but would like to save some money by doing it myself if I can.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Seems early for plug changes, they're good for 100K miles. Do you have that many miles already?

    Just changed mine on a 97 Sub, you'll need a 3/8" socket set with a plug socket (it's a deep socket the correct size for the plug, with a rubber insert to protect the plug), and a couple different extensions and a swivel are helpful. You should put anti-seize on the new plug threads. You'll need a plug gapper to check/adjust the gap on the plugs before' you put them in. The owners manual gives you the gap, my 96 gap is 60 thousandths of an inch.

    I personally would recommend Manufacturer plugs as called out in the manual, you can get at autoparts store (as opposed to other name brand equivalents).

    Your low idle could have nothing to do with the plugs though, so I'd personally only swap the plugs if you were up there in miles, or you were getting computer error codes suggesting cylinder mis-firings.
  • mocaramocara Posts: 2
    On some cars the daytime running lights don't work when the gear shift in park
  • sound4himsound4him Posts: 6
    Hi, I am new to this. I just read all the posts to see if I can get help. Here is my problem. I have an '03' Surburban with 65,000 miles on it. I have an intermitten problem when I hit a bump it seems like my vehicle shuts off and turns on momentarily. The check engine light goes on and off, ABS light comes on and off, brake warning light goes on and off, service brake system flashes across my odometer and chimeing like I just started the vehicle. I also lose power for a second. Sometimes the ABS light and brake warning light stays on. My brakes work fine and the brake warning light goes out when I shut off and restart the vehicle, then after running awhile the ABS clears. At least till I hit another bump. Any thoughts where to start? It seems to be a loose electrical connection. Also no OBD codes.
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