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Chevy Suburban Maintenance and Repair

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  • teepoloteepolo Posts: 1
    Hello Blackpacific,

    I have a 2001 Tahoe that seems to have the same problem. When stopping at slow speeds the ABS turns on and it is annoying. I called Checy and of course my vehicle was not eligible for the recall. My question to you is: Did you try shooting some brake cleaner and blow some compressed air to see if this would fix your problem of did you just go out and purchase the new sensor. Was it the process of elimination that caused you to make your decision OR did you just gather some informaiton and change the sensors? How did you determine it was the wheel hub bearing? Anyhow, did you do any other maintenance while you installed the wheel hub bearing? Thank you for any input. I'll assume that the recall was for the year 1999 to 2001 so it would be pretty much the same process as far as repair.
  • mrburbanmrburban Posts: 3
    I have a 1997 chevy suburban k2500 and I've been having this bucking/ hesitation problem for alittle over a year now, when the vehicle is cold driving there is no bucking or anything but when it starts to get warmer it will buck when I accelerate from a stop. It also tends to buck when I'm on the highway cruising at 55 and even at 70. I'v changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, air filter, pcv valve, spark plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor. Intake manifold looks pretty gummed up in there. Could it be that? I'v used injector cleaner and all that too but nothing seems to work. I dont tow anything but I have pulled a couple of cars out of ditches even so I dont think it's the transmission. I can't imagine what it would be so any input or suggestions would be great.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Intake manifold gasket??
  • drewmagzdrewmagz Posts: 1
    Im having the same issue with my 07 suburban.Went through three sets of pads.I just put aftermarket calipers and ceramic pads on.The front and left rotors are still heating up.This has even stumped my brake guy.Exactly where on the support brackets did you file down.Oh Yeah the dealer said the only way to find the problem was to replace all pads,rotors and calipers.I took it in to have it diagnosed and thats what they told me. It bothered my tire and brake guy so much that he reimbursed me the 96 dollars the dealer charged me.But we are still stumped,any detailed explanation on how you did this would be great!!!!!
  • puzzled12puzzled12 Posts: 1
    Too late I am sure for you, however, my mother's burb had the same issue (99 2WD). turned out to be the steering control sensor. As I had the vehicle, I had it identified before I returned it to her. At 72 she would have totaled it if it went out on a curve on her. Unfortunately it was a "dealership only" type of repair.
  • vic442vic442 Posts: 2
    I own a 2002 Burb and had the Intermediate Steering Shaft lubed at 50K miles with no problems until 100K miles. Dealer will not lube it again...stating it needs to be replaced...how did you get the Dealer to cover the cost out of warranty?
  • madmomov6madmomov6 Posts: 2
    edited June 2010
    Was driving the truck, no problems, then all of a sudden it felt like hit the brake for a second, but I didn't. The truck kept driving, but the sound coming from underneath was like the muffler was dragging and like a belt was broken in the front, but there was nothing wrong that I could see. A guy where I was said it was probably something wrong with the ball by the rear axle and that if someone opened it up right now there would probably be metal shavings all inside there. (sorry, I don't know a whole lot about auto mechanics) After about 6 hours I went to get the car to a mechanic, and when I put the car in reverse, it made a horrible grinding sound and did not go in reverse. The spedometer read I should have been going about 90 but nothing but that noise. So going only forward, I was driving to the mechanic a few miles away, and the grinding noise was only when I had my foot on the gas. When I stopped there was no noise, but it felt like the brakes were giving me trouble then, too, which was not happening in the morning. While in motion, it sounded like a racecar almost. After about 4 miles, after a red light, when I went to go the car did not want to go any more than like 20 mph even though the spedometer was reading 90. Then the car did not want to go anywhere. It was still on, but hitting the gas did nothing. It did not even make noise. No revving, no grinding, no nothing. But if the transmission went, wouldn't there be fluid anywhere? There was none in my driveway in the morning, none where I was parked half the day, and nothing under my car even where it is now. Please help, so that at the mechanic I won't be a total idiot and I won't get taken advantage of because I am a woman. Thank you ever so much.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited June 2010
    Transmission is shot, need to get them to tow it in.

    You'd only have transmission fluid all over the place, if something punctured the case. You could have gears stripped inside, and no leak.

    Shouldn't have been driving it while damaged, you may have made the problem worse, but too late now.

    When my '96 went a number of years ago, it was like a $1600 repair IIRC (went to the local AAMCO). They can't quote for certain and give you a valid estimate till they open it up, and see what all is damaged out of the hundreds of parts that are in there. I know in my case, there were 3 internal pieces that got damaged and needed replaced....but this could obviously vary greatly. Labor costs vary widely across the country, but you could easily be in the $1500 - $2500 range as a rough order of magnitude ballpark swag.
  • madmomov6madmomov6 Posts: 2
    Had issues with the suburban. ended up having basically a new back end: trans star ring and pinion, starseal kit, star rear wheel bearings and wheel seals, rear brake shoes and hardwear and wheel cylinders, brake fluid, gear oil and rear differential cover gasket. Holy crap. Drive away from the mechanic, and about 20 miles later, the engine starts knocking. After about another 20 miles, the enginge starts sounding like there is a bird hiding under the hood, not necessarily a saueaking sound, but a high pitched thing that is not constant, but doesn't stop really. It did not have any of this problem before the back end blew. So does that have anything to do with what was done in the truck, or is this new, or did the mechanic fix one thing to ruin another? My labor for the above is under warranty, and if any of this new stuff has to do with what he did, I want to take it back and have them fix it. If not, I'm afraid to go back to them because who knows what else they would do. Please help! This poor truck is making me crazy!
  • mlinggamlingga Posts: 58
    Just got our '07 Suburban 2wd LT 5.3L back from dealer for fuel pump replacement. Among other unsolicited suggestions, he said we needed to do some kind of "induction system cleaning" involving using "brushes" to clean it. Certainly not something listed in manual. Is this actually important or is this dealer looking to make up for lost sales profits?
  • jonny77jonny77 Posts: 6
    hey there. i too had the SAME problem. my 1996 kept postinga P1345 code. If this code comes up when scanned, it means the distributor was either reinstalled incorrectly, or that you need to use a scan tool that read diagnostic trouble codes, and can view live datastream to determine the Camshaft retard. A good friend of mine who is a 30 veterean GM mechanic fixed mine by loosening the distributor cap several times, adjusting each time. The camshaft retard MUST be no furthur away from 0 degress top dead center, to +2 or -2, or this bucking and hesitation WILL occur, and set off your Malfunction Indicator Lamp (mine wasnt coming up because the bulb that illuminates the MIL in the gauge area was burned out. If you have a trusted friend, or a reliable mom-and-pop type garage to go to, get them to use a scan tool with datastream capabilities to read the codes, and to use datastream to see were the camshaft retard is set. IF this is not the case, then the timing chain is worn or stretched, needing replaced. Mine was as simple as adjusting the Distrubutor cap enough to bring it into spec. My GM mechanic told me that 95% of the time, this is the problem. It will act like a fuel problem, and you will smell raw gas that isnt being burnt. But check this. It also may be the gear on the Distributor is worn from a burr on the camshaft, which is also common. But from what you have described, it looks as if your ignition timin/camshaft retard are not in spec. Give it a try. Hope this helps.
  • jonny77jonny77 Posts: 6
    you should also do a coolant compression check to see if the intake is leaking. but I will about guarantee you its the camshaft retard out of spec, or improperly installed distributor. Like i said, have it checked for any diagnostic trouble codes. The P1345 code can also set off misfire codes, catalyst codes, etc. because the fuel isnt being burnt because of the crossfiring due to out of spec Cam retard. This is a common code for GM's with an incorrectly installed distributor. Take it to a reputable trusted shop, and have them scan it, and tell you what codes are coming up. Again, if that P1345 code is present, it is likely causing other fuel/exaust system codes. I just finally got rid of my bucking and missing. All this time it was
    out of spec. My cam retard was -16, meaning it was -14/-16 out of spec. Got it down to -1, and it runs like never before, not setting codes anymore either. Hope this helps.
  • rayce_hdlrayce_hdl Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Chevy suburban I bought used about a year ago. I love it, but little things have gone wrong here and there, nothing major. However, recently some of the electrical components have started doing haywire. First, the dome light will not shut off if you have in on the automatic setting (to come on when doors open and shut off when they close). You have to turn them off and on manually, which is a pain. Then, the other day I was driving and it was about 85 degrees out and my [non-permissible content removed] was on fire and I'm like what the hell? I look over and the seat warmers were on full blast. I turned them off thinking I had hit them with my elbow or something. About ten minutes later the same thing happened and I know I didn't touch it. As I was looking at it to figure out what was going on the buttons started lighting up over and over for each level like a carnival game. I wasn't touching anything! I tried pushing the buttons and shutting it off, but it would only work for a minute or so and it would start all over like a ghost was messing with me. After I shut it off and waited awhile it hasn't done it since. Could this all mean something is wrong with the wiring or could it just be a fuse? My cigarette lighter also stopped working one day while I was driving and then a few days later when I went to try it again it worked fine. Please help!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Start with making sure your battery, alternator, are up to snuff....and the main wiring is making a tight connection with no corrosion on the terminals.

    Battery and alternator can be check for free at auto parts superstores, look for one that does load testing.
  • jonny77jonny77 Posts: 6
    start by unhooking both battery terminals for a few hours, then check if problem still persists. check all wiring. check all fuses. check for any open wires. check all bulbs, interior map light bulbs, door bulbs, all interior bulbs. check circuit breaker fuse. check auxilary battery/wiring relay. check intrument panel dimmer switch. check accessory power relay. check all grounds/straps. make sure all these things are in order, all relays plugged in tight, all fuses same. sounds mostly like your accessory power relay or auxilary battery/wiring relay. its unusual that wiring goes bad in suburbans from my years of experience, so check all relays, realy block, fuse block, and and the mentioned relays and all grounds and ground straps, to make sure everything is tight. if you kick around the floorboard alot, you may have barely jerked a wire loose somewhere under the dash, check everything relaly well, its usually something very simple in cases like this....let me know at jonbailey@carolina.rr.com if any of this fixes your problem, if not, then i will get with fellow GM mechanic and ask his advice.....
  • jonny77jonny77 Posts: 6
    do all of this of course if battery wiring is good and grounded, and if alternator wiring is good an grounded, as kaiwah mentioned.
  • spence57spence57 Posts: 26
    I had some odd problems with my 2003 Suburban. It turned to be that my inner fender was gone and that let roadsroay get into the comuter area and mess up contacts
  • trishtytrishty Posts: 1
    Could you tell me where you found the 50 amp fuse...? I know where two of the 3 fuse boxes are......my owner's manual says that there are 3 fuse boxes and sadly, I can only find the two that do not have the seat or right window fuse in them......HELP!!!! Thanks!!
  • Not sure if your still having the problem, but if the wheel and tire are not the cause it could possibly be a warped rotor.
  • Perhaps it's a driveshaft or wheelshaft problem or a Universal Joint going bad. Someone ought to jack up the car and run the drive system with and without the wheels to verify whether they add to or cause the problem. As per the other reply make sure the wheels have been switched. It's also possible that more than one wheel causes vibrations.
  • As for the speedometer and tachometer not working I would say it is probably your whole cluster. I had the same problem but it was only my speedo that didnt work. Replaced that and it worked again. As far as the codes being pulled up I wouldnt have any idea.
  • I bought a new 2007 Chevy Suburban that now has 27,000 miles and the left front wheel bearing is so bad it looks like the wheel is ready to fall off. I had to replace the front brake pads and rotors at 17,000 miles. Warranty wouldn't cover. Dealer said that was normal. I pull a 3000 lb. gross weight trailer once or twice a year for firewood maybe 10 miles max. My brother-in-law has a 2008 Chevy Avalanche with 62,000 miles and he's on his 5th set of brakes and has never towed. I had a 2005 Suburban that got 18 MPG on a trip, the 2007 with 4-cyl. mode only gets 14 MPG on the same trip (what gives?). I keep my Suburban and two other cars in my 3-car garage, never outside. The Suburban is rather rusty underneath, though I asked for undercoating when I bought it new, I was told that it's not necessary due to advanced corrosion resistant materials. The Suburban has never been to the beach or shore. My other vehicles do not show any rust and they've been around much longer. One is a Toyota that has 140,000 miles on it and all I ever did to it was tires, brake pads @ 35,000 mile intervals, oil changes and one set of wiper blades. Is GM putting out some real crap or what? I've been buying GM cars all my long life (I'm 63) but I don't believe I would ever buy another GM product. Does anyone else out there have these sorts of problems with their Suburban/Avalanche?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    If the rotor and pads were normal braking, and NOT associated with the bearing, then that would be normal wear and tear as all mfg's view it. I haven't wore thru pads yet, but most of my driving is highway driving.

    As an owner of a 2007 Sub as well, your bearing statement concerns me, as well as it should you. If the bearing fails, you'll have a catastrophic failure with the possibility if driving causing a major accident. I would expect that you'd also have horrendous tire wear.

    As far as I'm concerned, if you have a wheel bearing problem, that should be covered under warranty, that's not a wear and tear item. Your highway mileage could be greatly effected by a wheel bearing/alignment issue. I get around 19 on the highway, much better than my 97 Sub, or even my smaller Ford SUV.
  • 04burb04burb Posts: 1
    We have a 2004 Suburban that we use to tow a 30' travel trailer. A few months ago the brake control for the travel trailer stopped working. We replaced it with a new one, and then took the Suburban with trailer on a 1,000+ road trip. During the trip we discovered that the trailer cord that plugs into the back of the car had been dragging the ground, exposing the wires inside. We taped up the cord. A few weeks later the "service ride control" warning came on. A few weeks after that the "service stability" warning came on, and the ABS and stability lights illuminated. We took the car to a local shop that diagnosed it with a bad ABS control module. They said they could not diagnose the other problems until the module is replaced. This weekend we took the trailer out. When we plugged in the trailer cord to the car, the brake control installed on the dash began to smoke.

    My question is are all of these problems related, or am I dealing with multiple, individual issues? Could the exposed trailer wires done something to the electrical system? Is it prudent to have the ABS module replaced and then go from there?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    You should have had the dragging cable professionally repaired. They would have to carefully solder a repair and re-insulate each wire so that it is electrically insulated, and then once each of the wires was done, re-wrap the bundle. I suspect that a couple of those wires are shorting.

    Depending how the short is actually being made, it could be providing voltage where there shouldn't be on a wire, or drawing too much current.

    You need to treat these as individual issues, to fix each one. The trailer plug/cord can be rewired and then checked out to ensure no shorts, and all circuits working correctly for an external power source.

    Disconnect the trailer brake unit so you are back to the OEM ABS unit only, and get that fixed. Now your tow vehicle is back to original specs.

    Because your trailer brake unit was smoking, I would assume it's blown, and personally would just go get another new one. Add that into the vehicle, and then connect the trailer back together.
  • My Suburban is using water. I probably have to put in 2 gallons every fill up, and have to constantly keep on top of it.

    I have had the radiator replaced with a brand new one. And I never see any water puddles under the engine except a pretty sizable one that always forms under the AC compressor (hot, humid climate here) A couple of mechanics have checked it for engine problems (head gasket) and haven't found anything. (engine running smooth, etc)

    Any ideas what to check?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited October 2010
    It's either leaking out, or leaking in. That's a lot of water to have to fill up. Since you're not seeing it leaking out, I would suspect a head gasket problem, sucking coolant in, converting it to steam, and sending it out the exhaust pipe.

    Guess you could try replacing the water pump and hoses, last ditch chance before tearing into the engine. But also verify that your heater cores are not leaking.
  • Never run the heater (and I'm not sure it even works) as this is a tropical climate. So how do you check to see if the heater cores are leaking?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    look for damp carpet in the footwell of front passenger, damp carpet in right rear 'way back', or leaking underneath the vehicle behind right rear wheel.
  • I had my intake gasket changed since then my check engine light came on and I checked it the code is p1345 camshaft to crankshaft correlation fault, what's this mean? Idk what happened or what's going on with it
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