Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Chevy Suburban Maintenance and Repair



  • Vehicle resists starting when fuel level is 1/4 or lower and the vehicle sits overnight or longer. The engine turns over but behaves like there's no gas (no prime). Adding fuel to the tank eliminates the problem. Fuel pressure reads fine; the pressure regulator was replaced but no improvement. Has anyone else encountered and solved this problem? (Replacing the fuel pump is expensive and I want that to be the last resort.) Thanks.
  • dee23dee23 Posts: 4
    WHat did you do? Did you get rid of car, or did dealer/GM eventually fix it??
  • dee23dee23 Posts: 4
    did you ever resolve this?
  • It's a 94 Chevy suburban 1/2 ton. Ok, so I've replaced the brake light and stop light fuse, I took it in to get an oil change and told the guy to check the brake lights. He paid little attention to me, replaced the bulbs, and then didn't bother to test them to see if they worked. So my brake lights are STILL not coming on.

    I've been told to check the stop light switch which is "Down by the brake peddle" I *think* I found it, but if I have, what do I do with it? I don't think I have found it, but I don't know what it's supposed to look like. Is it an actual on/off switch or just a thing to plug the wires into?

    All three lights are out (the right, left and the one above the door). I do have tail lights, blinkers and back-up lights. So what's the deal, and how do I fix it?
  • We have a 2006 Suburban and more and more frequently the computer will display "System Stability Disabled". There's nothihng I know of that we did to turn this off, I can't find information in the owners manual, and I can't find a similiar issue on-line. I called the local dealer and they were unable to answer my questions and of course it wouldn't display when I took it over.

    Any insight?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    This will need to be a dealer fixed item. There are a couple of yaw sensors which determine whether the vehicle is beginning to spin, which will then command braking of particular wheels to occur. Obviously the best thing to do would be to get the vehicle to the dealer while the vehicle has the failure, which might be hard to do.

    I think if it was me, I'd begin documenting exactly when it occurs (date, time, mileage) and take a video or photo. If you get enough of these intermittent failures, the dealership will have to replace something to try and narrow down where the problem is.
  • OK, so now here's what I've done/had done to try to solve this problem, and the lights STILL are not on.

    Replaced fuses
    Replaced Bulbs
    Replaced the Stop Light Switch

    BEFORE I had the Stop Light Switch replaced they did come on once, but when I tried again they wouldn't turn on, so could it be a loose connection somewhere?

    Any ideas? I have to drive it about 5 hours in Thanksgiving traffic, I'd REALLY love to have working brake lights for the drive.
  • First of all this is my first Big Block Chevy, the guy I got it from did a bunch of work but has conveniently lost the receipts.
    What I have a 1994 7.4 454 V8 K2500 Suburban, Jeggs bottom end, edlebrock multi-port injection, edlebrock aluminum heads, shorty headers, MSD blaster coil, thats basically all I know.

    My problem:
    first: The oil pressure is low, just above the red lines, but never goes any lower (at idle) driving around town it's about 1 notch under 40, and cold it's just under 60.
    second: driving around town it runs great... no step hills, If I get on the highway and start going up a hill it starts ticking on the drivers side, if I give it more throttle it sounds almost like a knock, but no more power.

    is the oil pressure normal?
    whats that tick?

  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Lack of oil pressure could be due to worn camshaft bearings.
  • the guy I purchased it from said it had 15,000 miles, I run mobil 1 extended life 10/30,
    also it sounds like its coming from the drivers side not really the center, but I could be wrong... wouldnt be the first time :)
  • A ticking sound when accelerating is often caused by an exhaust leak, and sometimes occurs only when the engine is under a load. Check the gasket seal between the exhaust mainfold and the head, and on the round gasket between the exhaust mainfold and the exhaust pipe.

    Also, big blocks especially had a habit of of breaking the exhaust bolts that keep the manifold on the head. Those bolts get red hot and if they aren't made of the right steel alloy they get brittle and break. Chevy used some bad ones for a while.

    I'm not convinced your power problem and the ticking sound are related.


  • This happened to my '06 Tahoe last night. When it happened the electrical system went haywire also. All of the warning lights lit up on the dash, the radio and interior lights died and the front driver and passenger windows would not work. Was this also a problem for you? When I looked it up in the owners manuel under StabiliTrak System it said "this message should appear only if you have gone through heavy acceleration or braking during the first two miles after starting your vehicle." It then said to turn off the engine and turn it back on to reset (we did this and it didn't help) and if not the case take it in for service. Funny thing was when I got home I set the emergency brake after I parked and everything started working again?!?
  • We haven't seen anything with the electrical system or problems with lights or performance. Now I'm a bit more concerned. We just see the message on the OBC.

  • Sorry I didn't notice your post earlier, Crandall. I encountered the same condition with my 2002 Suburban . . . a very common problem on Chevrolet trucks at 80-90,000 miles.

    The fuel gauge on your vehicle is integrated with the fuel pump, and is worn to the point of being defective. In essense, it is giving you a false reading at 1/4 tank, and the tank is close to empty. As you mentioned, adding a couple of gallons of fuel cures the problem temporarily.

    A replacement pump from a dealer will be about $490, and around $350 aftermarket. I located the correct pump on eBay for $279 and had it installed for $200. A far cry from a dealer quote of $900. Check for a new AC Delco pump [factory]. 90% of all Suburbans are flex-fuel, which means the more expensive pump, part #MU1379. If your truck is a 'Z' code it is flex-fuel.

    Since the pump is still operable, I recommend you keep the pump in your vehicle for those cross-country jaunts . . . you'll never find a flex-fuel pump in the middle of America when you need one! Incidentally, since the fuel pump is located in the tank, the only thing that cools the pump is the fuel. Keeping at least 1/4 tank of fuel in the tank at all times is the best way to extend the life of the pump . . . and you know you always have a little reserve for an emergency. I've tried to convey that message to others in the household to no avail!

    Good luck!

  • Regarding #1 if on your 03 Suburban. The problem is a wiper motor regulator, an electrical panel that is part of the motor housing. Same thing happened to me last year. Fortunately it was raining all day. replacement part cost about $106 from the dealer.
  • Yes, my 2003 has been doing this for over 2 years. It does this when the fuel gauge reads slightly less than half full. It also acts the same way sometimes when it is using a lot of fuel, driving fast, uphill, and/or with a boat behind even with a full tank. Often it will not stall but will only sputter. The temporary fix always works.

    Shut off the engine if it was running and then bang on the bottom of the tank with your fist. If you don't shut if off, it banging won't fix it. For this reason I think that the fuel screen in the tank is becoming clogged and stopping the fuel flow lets the debris fall off. Mine may have started when I used fuel that had been in my boat tank. I've used lots of dry gas and sulfur cleaner and replaced filters to try to fix it.

    Those who have replaced pumps probably had their tanks emptied and that would clear out debris. I'm just going to live with it. I haven't been able to get a hose into the tank to suck it out. It's not a bad idea to keep your tank 1/2 full anyhow. If I drove hills and fast highways and heavy loads a lot I'd probably dump the tank.
    I've posted before on this condition.

    Tell us what you do.
  • bcxlbcxl Posts: 2
    Did you ever find an answer to the cold air on the passenger side problem. This is my problem and seems to be rather common? I don't have an answer...I need an answer.
  • Anyone ever heard of a turbo 400 trans (88 burb) that makes an odd high pitched grinding noise when shifting from 1-2 intermittently? The power delivery is still normal, but it grinds between shifts sometimes and I cant figure it out. Been doing this for the past 5,000 miles or so. Tranny fluid level is fine. It doesn't seem to be linked to any conditions, just once in a while I'll go a few miles with it grinding then it suddenly stops then returns some time later. :confuse:
  • If you haven't; make sure it's the tranny. Mine has a belt noise that's caused by the
    air conditioning pump load. Might be a loose tensioner or bad pump.
  • I've already replaced the pump and other parts of the air conditioning system because it was starting to seize. The noise comes from inside the tranny housing because it sounds like im sitting on top of the noise. I'm just wondering what causes it, being the fact that it's not acting any different.
Sign In or Register to comment.