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Chevy Suburban Maintenance and Repair



  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,413
    i think you can pull off the vacuum hose to the regulator and if you see fuel in there, it's bad for sure.


  • Not sure if this will help but look at the recall Chevy had in October 2005 on the fuel module resorvoir. Certain 2001 models had prbolems with the fuel pump when the gas went below a quarter of a tank. My will cause a fuel stall or no start condition. My wires overheated in a gas station burning a hole in the connector body and I dumped fuel while on vacation in Florida. A nightmare of the 4th of July weekend with Hazmat etc. however, Chevy picked up the tab. I believe this is the problem and you may be able to get Chevy to cover the issue. Good Luck.

  • I just bought a 2000 Suburban from a private party. It has a factory stereo with some sort of security code system. Unfortunately, the previous owner had gotten locked out of the stereo and didn't have the code to get it unlocked. So 2 questions:

    1. Is there some way to get the code? or to get around this problem?

    2. How do you go about unlocking the stereo even if you have the code?

    btw, I live in Central America. No GM dealerships nearby...

  • tsf7tsf7 Posts: 31
    My Sub is at 98k miles, so I'm preparing to do the big maintenance service soon. Per manual, major points are: plugs, air filter, trans. service, transfercase service. Manual recommends changing coolant at 5 yrs/150k miles or something like that, so I figure I'll do that, too. I am familiar with cars and worked on older cars & jeeps quite a bit in the past, but aside from changing the evap sensor soleniod or whatever it was called, I haven't done anything to this truck except change the oil, which I usually do myself (haven't needed to do anything). I'm considering doing plugs, filter, and coolant myself this weekend to save some money (I won't touch the transmission or transfer case), and looking for guidance. A couple questions before I start:

    1) with the rear heater, is there anything different that needs to be done in changing coolant (I assume there is separate heat exhange at the rear of the truck)? Or do I just flush, etc as usual?

    2) any tricks to getting those rear spark plugs out? They sure look like they're in tight quarters. We had an old Bonneville w/ 305 engine, had to take the passenger tire off to get at the plug. Any similar tricks on this engine?

    Any other tricks or tips appreciated! Thanks in advance.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,413
    Unlocking a Radio That Displays LOC When Code is Unknown

    IMPORTANT: Starting in 1995, a factory back-up code can be used to erase the original code if it is unknown.

    Have account number ready to enter when asked. Account number is your five digit dealer code followed by one of these numbers:

    * Chevrolet - 1
    * Pontiac -2
    * Oldsmobile -3
    * Buick -4
    * GMT-5
    * Cadillac -6
    * GM Canada -7
    * Saturn -8

    Read all steps before starting the procedure.

    If more than 15 seconds elapse between any of the steps, the radio automatically reverts to time and you must start the procedure over from step 1. In order to unlock the Theftlock(TM) system when code is unknown, perform the following steps:

    1. Press and hold push buttons 2 and 3 until a three digit code appears on the display.
    2. Write the three digit code on a piece of paper.
    3. Press the AM/FM push button, a three digit code will appear on the display again.
    4. Write the three digit code on a piece of paper.
    5. Call Delco Electronics at 1-800 - 537 - 5140.
    6. Follow the computer prompts to obtain the back-up code to be used in place of unknown code.
    7. Press MN and 000 will appear on the display.
    8. Press and hold MN until the last two digits agree with the back-up code.
    9. Press and hold HR until the first one or two digits agree with the back-up code.
    10. Press the AM/FM push button after you have confirmed that the code matches the one you wrote down. If REP appears on the display, repeat steps 7 through 10.
    11. The display will show "- - -" to indicate unknown code has been removed.

    If the back-up code does not unlock the radio, try reversing the first and last three digits of the display code.


  • 85350x85350x Posts: 2
    i have a 96 suburban and the rear main seal is leaking. Has anyone done one of these and how difficult is it. does it requre engine removal? thank you
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Don't know for sure, but wouldn't you be able to get to it by dropping the transmission instead?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,413
    Yes you R&R the transmission and either clutch or flexplate depending on transmission.

    Book says that for manual transmission it takes a professional mechanic with all the lifts, tools, etc. about 3.6 hours and for the automatic, about 6.5 hours.


  • I have a 2001 Chevy Surb, and recently the servce engine light came on, so I took it somewhere to get it checked, and it said that the fuel maybe to rich or lean. Now when I drove it yesterday, the light went off, and it comes back on when fuel is low. Wha do I do?
  • Dumb question. First time to change blades on this car. Wipers don't pull far away enough from windshield to allow for existing blade to be turned away from the windshield. Tried turning wipers on and off again. What am I missing here?
  • teepoloteepolo Posts: 1
    Hello Blackpacific,

    I have a 2001 Tahoe that seems to have the same problem. When stopping at slow speeds the ABS turns on and it is annoying. I called Checy and of course my vehicle was not eligible for the recall. My question to you is: Did you try shooting some brake cleaner and blow some compressed air to see if this would fix your problem of did you just go out and purchase the new sensor. Was it the process of elimination that caused you to make your decision OR did you just gather some informaiton and change the sensors? How did you determine it was the wheel hub bearing? Anyhow, did you do any other maintenance while you installed the wheel hub bearing? Thank you for any input. I'll assume that the recall was for the year 1999 to 2001 so it would be pretty much the same process as far as repair.
  • mrburbanmrburban Posts: 3
    I have a 1997 chevy suburban k2500 and I've been having this bucking/ hesitation problem for alittle over a year now, when the vehicle is cold driving there is no bucking or anything but when it starts to get warmer it will buck when I accelerate from a stop. It also tends to buck when I'm on the highway cruising at 55 and even at 70. I'v changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, air filter, pcv valve, spark plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor. Intake manifold looks pretty gummed up in there. Could it be that? I'v used injector cleaner and all that too but nothing seems to work. I dont tow anything but I have pulled a couple of cars out of ditches even so I dont think it's the transmission. I can't imagine what it would be so any input or suggestions would be great.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Intake manifold gasket??
  • drewmagzdrewmagz Posts: 1
    Im having the same issue with my 07 suburban.Went through three sets of pads.I just put aftermarket calipers and ceramic pads on.The front and left rotors are still heating up.This has even stumped my brake guy.Exactly where on the support brackets did you file down.Oh Yeah the dealer said the only way to find the problem was to replace all pads,rotors and calipers.I took it in to have it diagnosed and thats what they told me. It bothered my tire and brake guy so much that he reimbursed me the 96 dollars the dealer charged me.But we are still stumped,any detailed explanation on how you did this would be great!!!!!
  • puzzled12puzzled12 Posts: 1
    Too late I am sure for you, however, my mother's burb had the same issue (99 2WD). turned out to be the steering control sensor. As I had the vehicle, I had it identified before I returned it to her. At 72 she would have totaled it if it went out on a curve on her. Unfortunately it was a "dealership only" type of repair.
  • vic442vic442 Posts: 2
    I own a 2002 Burb and had the Intermediate Steering Shaft lubed at 50K miles with no problems until 100K miles. Dealer will not lube it again...stating it needs to be did you get the Dealer to cover the cost out of warranty?
  • madmomov6madmomov6 Posts: 2
    edited June 2010
    Was driving the truck, no problems, then all of a sudden it felt like hit the brake for a second, but I didn't. The truck kept driving, but the sound coming from underneath was like the muffler was dragging and like a belt was broken in the front, but there was nothing wrong that I could see. A guy where I was said it was probably something wrong with the ball by the rear axle and that if someone opened it up right now there would probably be metal shavings all inside there. (sorry, I don't know a whole lot about auto mechanics) After about 6 hours I went to get the car to a mechanic, and when I put the car in reverse, it made a horrible grinding sound and did not go in reverse. The spedometer read I should have been going about 90 but nothing but that noise. So going only forward, I was driving to the mechanic a few miles away, and the grinding noise was only when I had my foot on the gas. When I stopped there was no noise, but it felt like the brakes were giving me trouble then, too, which was not happening in the morning. While in motion, it sounded like a racecar almost. After about 4 miles, after a red light, when I went to go the car did not want to go any more than like 20 mph even though the spedometer was reading 90. Then the car did not want to go anywhere. It was still on, but hitting the gas did nothing. It did not even make noise. No revving, no grinding, no nothing. But if the transmission went, wouldn't there be fluid anywhere? There was none in my driveway in the morning, none where I was parked half the day, and nothing under my car even where it is now. Please help, so that at the mechanic I won't be a total idiot and I won't get taken advantage of because I am a woman. Thank you ever so much.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited June 2010
    Transmission is shot, need to get them to tow it in.

    You'd only have transmission fluid all over the place, if something punctured the case. You could have gears stripped inside, and no leak.

    Shouldn't have been driving it while damaged, you may have made the problem worse, but too late now.

    When my '96 went a number of years ago, it was like a $1600 repair IIRC (went to the local AAMCO). They can't quote for certain and give you a valid estimate till they open it up, and see what all is damaged out of the hundreds of parts that are in there. I know in my case, there were 3 internal pieces that got damaged and needed replaced....but this could obviously vary greatly. Labor costs vary widely across the country, but you could easily be in the $1500 - $2500 range as a rough order of magnitude ballpark swag.
  • madmomov6madmomov6 Posts: 2
    Had issues with the suburban. ended up having basically a new back end: trans star ring and pinion, starseal kit, star rear wheel bearings and wheel seals, rear brake shoes and hardwear and wheel cylinders, brake fluid, gear oil and rear differential cover gasket. Holy crap. Drive away from the mechanic, and about 20 miles later, the engine starts knocking. After about another 20 miles, the enginge starts sounding like there is a bird hiding under the hood, not necessarily a saueaking sound, but a high pitched thing that is not constant, but doesn't stop really. It did not have any of this problem before the back end blew. So does that have anything to do with what was done in the truck, or is this new, or did the mechanic fix one thing to ruin another? My labor for the above is under warranty, and if any of this new stuff has to do with what he did, I want to take it back and have them fix it. If not, I'm afraid to go back to them because who knows what else they would do. Please help! This poor truck is making me crazy!
  • mlinggamlingga Posts: 58
    Just got our '07 Suburban 2wd LT 5.3L back from dealer for fuel pump replacement. Among other unsolicited suggestions, he said we needed to do some kind of "induction system cleaning" involving using "brushes" to clean it. Certainly not something listed in manual. Is this actually important or is this dealer looking to make up for lost sales profits?
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