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Chevy Suburban Maintenance and Repair



  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,656
    edited November 2010
    DTC P1345 Crankshaft Position (CKP)-Camshaft Position (CMP) Correlation Circuit Description This diagnostic trouble code (DTC) monitors the crankshaft position (CKP) and the camshaft position (CMP) signals to determine if they are synchronized. If both signals are not observed by the control module within a narrow time window, the vehicle control module (VCM) will determine that an error has occurred. Conditions for Running the DTC The engine is running Conditions for Setting the DTC When the engine is running, the cam sensor reference pulse is not detected at the correct position relative to the crankshaft position sensor pulse. Action Taken When the DTC Sets The control module illuminates the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) the first time the diagnostic runs and fails. The control module will set the DTC and records the operating conditions at the time the diagnostic fails. The control module stores the failure information in the scan tools Freeze Frame/Failure Records. Conditions for Clearing the MIL or DTC The control module turns OFF the MIL after 3 consecutive drive trips when the test has run and passed. A history DTC will clear if no fault conditions have been detected for 40 warm-up cycles. A warm-up cycle occurs when the coolant temperature has risen 22°C (40°F) from the startup coolant temperature and the engine coolant reaches a temperature that is more than 70°C (158°F) during the same ignition cycle. Use a scan tool in order to clear the DTCs. Diagnostic Aids Check the following items: A loose CMP sensor causing a variance in the sensor signal Excessive free play in the timing chain and gear assembly Incorrectly installed distributor - 1 tooth off in either advance or retard positions A loose distributor rotor on the distributor shaft A loose or missing distributor hold down bolt An intermittent may be caused by any of the following conditions: A poor connection Rubbed through wire insulation A broken wire inside the insulation

  • So what can I do to fix this then? I tried clearing it it comes right back on in 2 seconds
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,656
    edited November 2010
    Well you have to check the various items listed in the last 5 lines of the description I posted.

    If the light keeps coming back on that means the problem is still there.
  • Well one plug wire on the distributor wasn't even connected but the light still comes on. Ill just have to take it in I guess. Runs better now anyways
  • Did you clear the code after you stuck the wire on? I presume so. You might check all the appropriate connectors for corrosion or looseness.
  • Yeah I did, haven't checked for corrosion yet its to cold right now to keep going at it. I just hope nothing gets wrecked is all I'm worried about
  • My brother inlaw has a 99 suburban and the gas gauge flickers reall fast constantly when he turns the key on and while its running, any idea on what that might be from?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Bad gauge, or bad sender unit, is where I would start investigating.

    Do a search on bad gauges, you'll find a number of posts, and companies that rebuild them for you. Video's on how to disassemble and mail off the part for repair.

    But make sure that is indeed the problem, before sending off for a new gauge.
  • Alright I will try that. Thanks!
  • Did you ever find out what the problem was for your flashing courtesy lights?
  • yes - I had another problem with that , about every 2 months the car would start them die, would not start , wait few hours or even a day then it would start. I replaced the factory anti-theft module fixed both problems about 2 years everything fine ,no blinking interior light and has always started since replacing that part
  • I was on and was reading the posts of issues people are having with their 07 Suburbans and the like but I haven't seen any posts about what the problem was or how it was fixed!

    I have an 07 Chev Suburban LT 4x4 with the 5.3 flex fuel with 128k miles (I drive alot) that seems to have a mind of it's own. Here are my issues:

    Idles rough (missing)
    Check engine light comes on randomly
    Traction Control/Stabilitrak light (chimes) come on randomly - sometimes I am stopped in park - sometimes at a stop light - sometimes driving freeway speeds - very random.
    When starting up a small incline she will chug or hesitate and the way I get it to go away is give it more gas or take my foot off the gas.
    Hesitates on start like battery is almost dead yet the indicator says it's fine.

    The rough idle and chug on hills started first - then a few weeks later the check engine light and traction control/stabilitrac started.

    Any thoughts? We are flat broke (construction) - am getting ready to list this for sale when all this started happening so we don't have a couple hundred to throw at a dealer for diagnostics - are hoping it's spark plug wire, fuel filter something like that that we can tackle. We had the fuel pump replaced almost a year ago at the dealer.

    Also - where is the fuel filter? Is it in the gas tank like the pump therefore it's a lifetime one?

    Any help or advice is greatly appreciated!


    Norene Beaver
  • The rough idle, "chug" and hesitation could be caused by a bad spark plug. It could also be a bad spark plug wire or the fuel filter although I doubt it would be the fuel filter since that should have been changed with the fuel pump. The fuel filter should be located somewhere along the fuel lines. Mine is under the just under the driver side door on the chassis but being 10 years older then yours it may be located under the hood, but I dont think its in the fuel tank. I would pull out the spark plugs and check the condition of them, and also check the spark plug wires and see if there are any cracks or slits in the wires. If you have a bad plug it can cause a hesitation that'll make you go nuts. There are many things that can cause that. Worst case could be you have a bad injector. I have a 97 Suburban with an injector problem, idles rough at times and will hesitate pretty badly when it faces ANY sort of incline or load and thats what the injectors will cause. As for the traction control I dont have that so unfortunately I dont know why it would do that. Also if your check engine light is on you can bring it to Advance Auto or Autozone as I'm pretty sure they'll hook it up to their computer for free to see what codes are coming up. I hope this helps you out a little bit.
    Good Luck.
  • crna2becrna2be Posts: 3
    I had the same problem. Turned out to be an intake gasket that dumped one day after a hard acceleration getting onto the freeway.

    Check your oil. If it looks like chocolate milk, bingo!
  • dmolinedmoline Posts: 1
    edited July 2011
    So I just went to change my brakes on my 2007 suburban and noticed this same thing. They we're so tight I had to use a hammer and punch to remove them. I was able to barely install the new pads bynalso pounding into place. I took for a drive and felt there was too much drag... So I remove pads and simply put the ends of my pads on my bench grinder to take a sliver off both sides. I reinstalled and they now have nice movement. In all my years of changing brakes I've never seen pads as tight as these so I wanted to correct and this only took 1 minute per pad.
  • jjh1972jjh1972 Posts: 1
    For starters, this is a 99 suburban now with 200.000+ miles. First noticed this last summer 2010 (had 175,000 miles on it) when we went to the mountains for a vacation and when in Knoxville heading up some not so steep grades on I40 trying to accelerate it would bucks when being bogged down and when trying to push on the fuel pedal it would continue to buck. Stop pushing the fuel pedal for a bit and it would quit as long as you werent' pushing it to really pass (not necessarily in "turbo speed", but just speeding up pretty quickly to pass). Spark plugs and wires have been replaced, mechanic changed the "distributor cap...I know that's not what it's called, it's really late and I can't think". It is still doing the bucking when giving it fuel. We live now in a place that in town is up and down hills, when going up the hill trying to stay at 45 mph it will act like a spark plug or wire is not firing right, but they are all new. Have tried fuel treatment thinking it could be bad gas. NOTHING. Any ideas????
  • cernunnoscernunnos Posts: 1
    Hey Kim, Did your replacing the crank sensor completely solve your suburban irractic shut downs? I have a 96 diesel suburban that shuts down about every 3 blocks but starts right back up, sometimes even while coasting and turning the key.I have replaced the common stuff: fuel filter, fuel pump, air filter with no prevail. I have gone through this whole thread and did not see anyone with a direct solution.
  • Hi all. Sorry if this is a repeat, I did attempt a search but did not come up with anything. I recently had the fuel pump changed on my 2005 Yukon XL (1500 SLT 2WD). Went to pick it up, and the check engine light and low fuel warning lights/message were on. Put in 10 gallons and it still read Empty with check engine light. Went right back to the shop and they read the code, decided they'd have to drop the tank again and replace the sending unit. Next day picked it up and it starts and runs fine and fuel gauge works. Then a couple days ago went to the gas station and the pump would shut off after just a few seconds. Spent about 10 minutes adding five gallons, even tried another pump, and gave up. My question is, is it possible that the shop did something to the vent or caused some other sort of problem that makes it unable to fill up easily? Or is it just that station calibrated poorly? (I go there all the time, never had a problem before.) Is it something that may go away on its own? Or do I need to go back to the shop and ask those nincompoops to try AGAIN?
  • weswes Posts: 5
    I also have 99 suburban with 245k miles. I am having the same issue. I have been told it might be the catalytic converter. I thought it might be the co2 sensors, but was told by a mechanic they were working properly, but he could not rule out the cat converter. I don't have the money to replace the converter and would be disappointed if that were not the cause. Let me know if you get it fixed.
  • kdmillerkdmiller Posts: 14
    I have had no more shutdowns since the sensor was changed. Good Luck. Kim M.
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