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Chevy Suburban Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • ivydriverivydriver Posts: 1
    Kirk,
    We had the same problem with our 97 Burb. Although we took it to over 4 dealers and transmission places no one could figure it out. It became very expensive...our transmission went while on vacation 4 states away and then after fixing that they finally (after 7 months) realized the hard shifting was the shift solenoid. If there is a grinding it is the shift sensor on the transfer case - we ended up replacing all.
  • well...that noise you hear is coming from and aspirator, its actualy not a speaker. it is a small fan that pulls air across a tiny sensor and it works in conjunction with the HVAC system...it is an easy fix. you can only get the aspirator at the dealership... repair should only take 10 or 15 minutes.
  • hi Gary, my name is Gary as well...i am a Technician @ a Chevy dealership. and the noise you're describing sounds like a slip yoke problem and there is a bulletin for that...it is Document ID# 1580377....just give that to your dealership of choice and that should be a very good starting point for a correct repaire for your vehicle. i have fixed quite a few silverado's and suburbans with that bulliten.
  • Looking to buy a Suburban with a tailgate instead of barn doors or hatch back. Can anyone please tell me what year & model the tail gate was available on? Thanks...
  • bbyc454bbyc454 Posts: 4
    If you have been changing the fuel filter regularly you should not have to replace the pump. BUT, if the pump does go out, it's a major project to replace. You have to drop the gas tank because the pump is inside it. How do I know? It happened to me on my 1999 K2500 120 miles from home. Had to have a dealer fix it. $750!!!! I'd change the filter as a minimum before your trip. Easy to do.
    Good luck.
  • bbyc454bbyc454 Posts: 4
    1999 and earlier
  • bbyc454bbyc454 Posts: 4
    Do you tow in Drive or 3? You need to be towing in 3 not Drive.
  • bbyc454bbyc454 Posts: 4
    You need an alignment.
  • I have a couple of 1999 Suburban's with a #6 cylinder misfire. Changed fuel injectors, plugs. Any ideas
  • I HAVE A 2000 CHEVY SUBURBAN 1500, 5.3 V8, I WAS UNABLE TO START MY CAR, SO I PUT IN A NEW STARTER, & STILL WHEN I PUT THE KEY INTO THE "RUN" & TURN IT FORWARD TO START IT, IT DOESNT MAKES ANY NOISE, JUST A CLICKING SOUND IN THE ELECTRICAL CENTER, I CHECKED THE FUSES, & ALSO THE FUEL, TEMPERATURE & BATTERY GUAGES REMAIN STAGNET WHEN I PUT THE KEY INTO THE "RUN" POSITION, I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT IS WRONG, PLEASE HELP ME OUT!!!
  • rockman59rockman59 Posts: 250
    This may seem pretty basic but......are you sure the battery is OK and the cables and connections are good? A clicking sound usually means a very weak battery or loose connection.
  • dieselonedieselone Posts: 5,641
    You definitely have a cooling system problem. I routinely tow my 4500lb boat with my 2000 1/2 ton Suburban with 3.73 in heat up to 110 and the temp gauge has never moved higher than it's normal running temp even when pulling up hills.
  • thanks for the response. Turns out it was the Thermostat sticking. Its been replaced since and no probs.
  • dieselonedieselone Posts: 5,641
    Glad to hear you got it taken care of. I've been away from the boards for a while and didn't notice the date of your post.

    Anyway, glad to hear it was only a thermostat. Seems it's only the expensive stuff that breaks on my burb i.e. transmission and recently an a/c compressor.
  • This recently purchased well-used Sub with 88K miles runs great except when it is hot outside and it is at high altitude the engine loses power and often cuts off. Usually happens at the top of a hill or when otherwise letting off the gas pedal. Could this be a vacuum-related fuel line problem? After stopping and cooling a bit it starts and runs again. Any ideas or similar experiences?
  • rockman59rockman59 Posts: 250
    This recently purchased well-used Sub with 88K miles runs great except when it is hot outside and it is at high altitude
    ___________________________________________________________
    How high are you talking about?
  • lajalaja Posts: 3
    I am guessing you live in the northern part of the Country. I had the same leak on my 2002 Suburban. My dealer checked into it and found out there is a seal on the upper front axle. The seal has been leaking in colder cliamates. No problem in southern States. My car leaked out most of the differential fluid. They replaced the seal with a different material (about a year ago, I can't remember what new one they used). Since this appeared to be a manufacturing defect, my dealer ate the cost and charged me nothing. There is a GM bullitin on this problem.
  • lajalaja Posts: 3
    I have a vibration in the front right of my Suburban. It starts at about 35 MPH, but can be felt most over 57 MPH. Chevy dealer has balanced wheels, replaced tires, alligned vehicle, road balanced wheels and now suggests a different tire. I also had front shocks replaced. Nothing is stopping this shudder through the whole vehicle. Chevy is correcting effects, but has yet to find the cause. They have been very easy on the cost factor to me, (discounted pricing, minimal labor charges, etc.) so it's not that.
    A second Chevy dealer checked the whole front end and also could not find anything wrong. Idler arm, ball joints, tie rods, the whole nine yards all check as OK.
    Any ideas?
  • I had a mechanic which recently replaced my Drac module to fix my transmission shifting problems. I was told by the Chevy dealer that this module had nothing to do with the shifting. I was wondering if anyone had information regarding this.This mechanic also said he got the part from a salvage yard but I was also told this would not work. I was wondering if I got ripped off.
    Thanks
    Caesar
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