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2013 and earlier Lexus RX 350 Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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Comments

  • nissanznissanz Posts: 21
    edited February 2013
    Okay so as expected got a rate of 3.9 for 60 months ... It's by far the worst rate I got.. Credit score pulled up as 797. No negotiations possible on rate

    Good news is LFS doesn't have any pre payment penalty though I have to wait for 2-4 weeks for account to set up

    I think I will go with LFS now and refinance later

    Can you Let me know if there are any cons to it
  • Okay so as expected got a rate of 3.9 for 60 months ... It's by far the worst rate I got.. Credit score pulled up as 797. No negotiations possible on rate

    Good news is LFS doesn't have any pre payment penalty though I have to wait for 2-4 weeks for account to set up

    I think I will go with LFS now and refinance later

    Can you Let me know if there are any cons to it
  • Of the 6 dealers I talked to only one talked about loyalty bonus. Its not really a loyalty bonus, 1K rebate if you own a luxury car like mercedes, audi, bmw etc

    My dealer didn't mentioned about it. He only talked about the LFS incentive. It worked for me as I do not qualify for the loyalty bonus anyways

    Hope this helps
  • adizzadizz Posts: 1
    Did you get your deal done? The negotiated price you mentioned is lesser than invoice price and I was wondering if thats something the dealers would reject right off the bat (going lower than invoice price).

    My dealer quoting me 47418 for the same car. The true market value was 47635 so i thought i was getting a nicer deal. Your deal is sweeter.
    Could you let us know where you bought this from.
  • saz25saz25 Posts: 152
    You should never pay invoice price or above. I never ever have on any car.
    Always less than invoice. I bought my 2013 RX 3 months ago for more than $1500 under invoice. And it wasn't only one dealer agreeing to that. I could get that from all of them. It was just that some dealers would go lower than others.

    It's all about technique. You need to act like you're controlling the negotiation.
    Good luck.
    Steve
  • I guess I'm not that good in negotioating because I spoke with 3 dealers in the NJ area ant best I got was $250 below invoice. Can you provide any insight on your methods. Thanks.
  • saz25saz25 Posts: 152
    The key is to not ask them for a price quote. You go in with knowledge of the cost figures, invoice, hold-backs, incentives, etc. Then you tell them I will pay xxx for the car with xyz options/packages/features.

    Also, do not budge on your price. Do not go up even if they come down.

    Once you ask them for a price, I find, you are doomed.
    Steve
  • Thanks. Where do you find out the information about hold-backs? I can get the info for current incentives and the invoice price from this site but don't know anything about hold-backs. I contacted a dealer and told him I would buy today if he gave me a price I wanted to pay, which was $1,500 below invoice. He said the deal doesn't make economic sense and let me walk away. The best he gave me was $250 below invoice. Appreciate your advice.
  • Yes, I got the deal done. I didn't want to let it go as he was the only dealer who had the color combo I wanted.
    OTD with tax title and reg was $45804. I got 3.9% APR though. They said thats the best rate from LFS. I am planning to refinance it next month.

    $47418 is not a good price for the RX. I could get prices as low as $45500 even without negotiation. Call a couple of dealers and tell them that others have got deal close to $44000 and they will beat it. I submitted an online request to all dealers in the area. All of them called, some didn't even want to negotiate. If you stick to your price, they will call you.

    Good luck !
  • I called up one dealer and he said he couldn't do less than 47000. Infact after 30 mins of haggling and trying to explain to me the politics and economy he let me go. I was insisting on 46000 but he wouldn't budge.

    I have another dealer who is stuck at 46,900. I am trying to convince him as well but so far it didn't do any good. The MSRP is 50,160 and I am talking about a lease offer.

    The dealer is about 6 hours away from where i live, and he offered me that he would bring the car to a middle point (such that my drive is 3 hours instead) but wouldn't reduce the price.

    Any ideas???
  • When I was shopping around for one, I called up dealers coast to coast to just get an idea. I found that dealers in CA (Bay area), FL, NJ, MA and PA were all ready to sell for $44-45K. Talked to a dealer in TX and he wasn't ready to negotiate at all. But he was the only dealer in 100 mile radius, that might explain it. And this was all through phone, never visited one before agreeing on price.

    If you are near any states I have mentioned, you should be able to grab one close to 45K
  • Is $45,000 net of $1,000 current incentive for loyalty credit? Or should you get another $1,000 on top of that to be $44,000 net cost?

    Thanks for your advice.
  • Please share the name of the dealer. I'm aslo geting quotes in the 47,500 range. Thanks in advance.
  • saz25saz25 Posts: 152
    Just an FYI. Knowing the name of the dealer or even the specific sales rep doesn't really help. It's difficult to walk into a dealership say something like I want the same deal that another person got. Sometimes it may work, but I wouldn't count on it. They can argue or play the game that incentives changed from week to week, etc.

    Getting a good deal is all about confidence and negotiating skills and being firm as to what you want to pay.
    Good luck.
    Steve
  • $45000 is what dealers offered me without any negotiation. This did not include any incentives. All dealers specified the incentives separately. If any dealer is quoting you price with all incentives included, then make sure you understand what the fine prints are. You might want to careful dealing with them

    I got a lot of advice from this forum. The first thing I learnt is that always negotiate the sale price of the car, then ask for incentives. Don't tell you will finance with LFS or own a lexus until you agree of the sale price and get to know what the incentives are. I initially told them that I have my own finance and agreed on the sale price and then told the dealer that I will finance with LFS to get the $1000 cash

    Stood firm on my offer and finally one dealer agreed.

    Good luck !
  • Hey everyone,
    I'm in the market to lease a 2013 rx 350. It's something I'm going to take my time on and not rush. I was curious to see if there is anyone that has purchased a 2013 rx in The NH or MA area. Any info on what you paid, or reccomendations on a good dealer would be great. Also, would waiting until the 2014's come out benefit me on gettig a better deal on a 13?
    I do plan to start calling around to multiple dealers to compare prices and make them work for my deal. Just figure I would start here. Thanks in advance.
  • ken117ken117 Posts: 179
    I find it interesting so many people think they can fool a dealer.

    Car sales people sell for a living. They have seen and heard everything. They sell every day while the buyer buys every few years. Nothing is to be gained by erroneously believing you can fool a sales person.

    I have found being totally upfront with the sales person and not playing games works best. It seems if a sales person recognizes the person across the table is knowlegeable and honest things will progress much quicker and be more fair.

    Also, not letting the sales person know you intend to finance does not improve the deal. To the dealer, a cash sale is no better than a finance deal and is often less attractive. Dealers know they can increase profit though financing so they may be willing to sell at a lower price. A buyer can always finance and then a day or so later pay the loan.
  • Agree, with knowledge and a professional attitude which respects the sales person, buying a vehicle is a simple process.

    When I buy, I research using pricing information from Edmund's forums, True Car, etc. I obtain the invoice price, dealer incentives, and holdback. I compute a fair price. I find my credit score and available financing terms. I use KBB, Edmunds, and NADA to fairly value my trade. I don't over value my trade.

    I then initiate contact with dealers over the internet. The dealers who refuse to provide a price I ignore. A dealer who simply requests I visit is of no interest. I am looking for a dealer who understands the internet buyer. I follow up with the dealers who give me a quote. I then visit one dealer, usually the dealer who has the best on line reviews. I present my numbers to the sales person and negotiate. I usually give a few hundred dollars to nudge the negotations forward.

    I allow the dealer to finance me at or below the interest rate I could get from my bank or credit union. If available, I insist on the manufacturers supported finance terms.

    And, most importantly, I say NO to every product pushed in the dealer's F&I box.
  • vamsimvamsim Posts: 2
    to nissanz:
    can you please let me know the dealer info where you got that price. I assume its for comfort/nav/premium.
    Thanks
  • leenguyenleenguyen Posts: 2
    edited March 2013
    I bought this car 2 moths ago: with NAV, voice command... + Premium Package + Comfort pkg + 12- speaker ,DVD player + Intuitive parking assist + wood & leather trimmed .. + Remote starter = $49,309.
    I paid $44,700.00. I think it was very good deal for this area (DC).
    I give it a 5-star rating.
    When I buy a car, normally, I know things around: Choose a slow day/month.
    Make firm offer; Don't say that you buy a car for special occasion. Just say we are still shopping around... Don't let them drive you by any reason.
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