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Isuzu Trooper Start Problems

Trying to find out if I am wasting my time attempting to switch my starter out on my 00 trooper. I have the tools, but am unsure if it would be worth taking to the pro's to do. Is it possible to do? If so, how long will it take? Any recomendations??? Thanks,



  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Hi, I have included description of removal process. I have not done this, so I don't know if there are any shortcuts. Unfortunately, it appears that the exhaust has to be removed, but maybe you can figure out if it is absolutely necessary to remove it completely or just loosen it up to get enough wiggle room to drop the starter. The two links are to the schematics which are referred to by the directions. Good luck , and let us know what you decide to do.!

    Battery ground cable.
    Disconnect Heated O2 Sensor connector (1).

    Remove exhaust front left pipe (2).
    Remove heat protector (3).
    Disconnect starter wiring connector from terminals "B" and "S" (4).
    Remove starter assembly mounting bolts on inside and outside (5).!v=!v=

    Remove starter assembly toward the bottom of engine (6).

    Install starter assembly (6).
    Install mounting bolts and tighten bolts to specified torque (5). Torque: 40 Nm (30 lb ft)
    Reconnect the connectors to terminals "B" and "S" and tighten Terminals "B" to specified torque. Torque: 9 Nm (80 lb in)
    Install heat protector (3).
    Install exhaust front left pipe and tighten bolts and nuts to specified torque (2). Stud Nuts Torque: 67 Nm (49 lb ft) Nuts Torque: 43 Nm (32 lb ft)

    Connect Heated 02 Sensor connector (1).
    Reconnect the battery ground cable.
  • jjokerjjoker Posts: 8

    I have replaced the starter on a 1995 and a 1992 trooper and it isn't to much trouble. There is only two bolts that hold the starter up and you can get them out by using a long extension on your ratchet. You can remove the wires to the solenoid before or after you remove the mounting bolts, whatever is easier for you, BUT MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE CABLES FROM THE BATTERY unless you like to see sparks flying from under you car LOL. There is a trick I have learned to get the started out without removing any of the exhaust or A-Frame to the front left wheel. The starter must comes out twords the front of the vehicle. You have to remove a vaccum line that is in the front drive shaft. It sits on top of the shaft and goes straight down into it. You will see what I am talking about when you get under there. Then bend the bracket that holds a couple wire harnesses up slightly to make some more room. Now the Trick is to TURN the front wheels all the way to the RIGHT. This will make enough room for the starter to come out in between the front drive shaft and the steering linkages to the front wheels. You have to position the starter just right but trust me it comes out. Put the new one in the same way you removed the old one and your done. Since the starter is like $200.00 all by itself I would hate to see what they would charge you to replace it at a shop. Hope this helps. Good luck!!
  • Looking for assistance. My son is in Alaska going to college. It's below zero most the time. He has 1999 Isuzu Trooper. It hasn't started since Thanksgiving. Fuel line froze. It would turn over but would not start. Finally wore the battery down. Re-charged and still would not start. Now having a clicking noise coming from the starter area. Had battery checked OK. Pulled starter it's ok. Put on a new starter relay. Still just clicking noise from starter area. Help Please. Thanks
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,985
    This is a real shot in the dark but one time I got stuck on the Parks Highway after skiing into a friend's cabin for 3 days. Below zero most of the time. My minivan would not crank even with a jump when we got back to the highway. It just clicked too.

    Some mechanic from Trapper Creek stopped and messed with the distributor cap and got the timing adjusted enough to get it going and I got back home fine. Or maybe he fixed a flaky ground while fooling with the cap, since clicking usually means the relay or starter solenoid. Since the starter checks out, I'd check the battery connections at both ends before checking the cap, but who knows.

    Well, someone here should know better than me. :shades:
  • Thanks I'll have him take a look. I'll let you know what I find out. Thanks again. Butch
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,985
    The "No Start" Problems discussion would be another good place to look for help until Atfdmike or Paisan stumbles in here.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Hi, How exactly was the starter checked? I ask because as was mentioned previously, your symptoms are generally due to a bad starter motor or solenoid, more likely the starter motor if you are hearing a click. There is a starter relay, I believe in the under hood fuse/relay box that may also click, but generally not as loud as the solenoid. Is that the relay you refer to? If you CAREFULLY jumper the starter solenoid by using CAREFULLY a heavy short screwdriver or such, to connect the two large threaded lugs on the back of the solenoid the starter motor should energise. Be extremely careful to ONLY jump these two items and not anything else or a dead short could occur. PLEASE don't attempt this if you are not confident that the vehicle is in neutral, or park, wheels chocked,and that it is safe to crank and start: if the ignition is on the engine will start if the starter motor is working. The large gage wire comes directly from the battery and is always at 12 volts. If the motor does not engage or sounds like it is spinning but not engaging the flywheel, then the bendix gear and assembly are frozen/bad. Can you be mistaking the spinning motor or not hearing it and think this is the clicking sound? Still need a starter at that point. If nothing happens, then still need a starter. IF it does start doing this, then the solenoid is bad, assuming the smaller gage wire on the back of the solenoid is plugged in to it. You can replace the solenoid, but it is still necessary to get access to the starter. Most people opt to replace starter and solenoid as a unit.
    I hope this helps. Are you sure the fuel line is OK now? Cranking on a starter for long periods will overheat it and eventually kill it. Trying to crank with low voltage and a dragging starter have been known to keep an engine from starting due to the electonic ignition not having enough volts to fire the system. Good luck. If you need more help, post again. I don't have a manual at home for your vehicle, but will check again Monday at work. Let us know how you do...
  • Thanks they did pull it off and had it checked at the local NAPA store. The vehicle will not crank at all. They did replace the stater relay still no luck. Thanks alot appreciate your thoughts. Butch
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    I know this is an older post, but the directions given by jjoker are great, and work just as given. I would add that once you have the starter loose and wires unhooked, rotating it 180 degrees from the original position allows you to move it forward and past the wire harness and axle. The Trick of turning the front wheels to the right is PERFECT. Once the starter is beyond the front of the motor and axle, you can turn it sideways and it slips between the draglink and driveshaft. What a lifesaver when dealing with an older vehicle. That exhaust removal would be a nightmare! Thanks jjoker. Kudos to your sharing this info.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    OK, then I think the solenoid needs to be jumpered as I described in my post. This will tell you whether the motor is getting enough power from the battery. You don't mention if there is an alarm system or manual trans. There is a Neutral safety switch in an automatic, clutch disengage switch on the manual trans clutch that could prevent the solenoid from getting power. If you jump the solenoid and the starter works, then you know that for some reason the solenoid is not getting a signal to engage, which could be caused by the above items. The alarm system includes a starter disabler on some vehicles.
  • It doesn't have an alarm system. But I'll forward your thoughts up to him. There is a clicking noise by the stater when the key is turned. Thanks again.
  • the starter feed wire might be loose.. this takes 2 people 2 check first someone needs to climb under the truck on the passenger side, and wiggle the feed wire while the other starts the engine it might take a try or 2 but it should start. make sure the car has its e brake on and you secure the tires for safety. if it starts all you have to do is tighten it with a cresent wrench..
  • Thanks I'll have him try. Appreciate all you guys that have responded. I'll let you know.
  • Thanks for your suggestion. They ended up putting a new starter on vehicle. Now it starts fine. Thanks Butch
  • He put a new stater on and now starts. Don't know if it was bad or not. Had benched tested ok, but I;m in WI and they are in Alaska Thanks again for all the help. Butch
  • i have a 95 tropper ls and the other day i got in it to go some where and it would not crank it would not do any thing all the light on the dash came on when i truned the key it did not even make a sound no clicking come to find out the cluth saftey switch broke so i just put a jumper in it no luck still nothing well after a few hr. of checking all i know to check still nothing so i crawel under to check the starter noting loose
    so i cross the starter to get it going drove it do the road and back shut it of and it started right back up drove it all the next day started up just fine then it done it again i push it off and no it doing it and wont start it like the battery deed but it check out ok so any one have a clue what it mite be i was think starter relay but i'm not sure is there in help out there
  • I just bought a 94 Tropper. The previous owner had a starting issue that he brought to my attention. The vehicle is a 5-speed and the previous owner feels that the sensor for the clutch is the reason it does not start. The vehicle will start several times and then out of now where is will not turn over and the vehicle can remain like this for days. All the lights work when I turn the key but it will not start. The starter was also replaced five years ago. Does the vehicle have a sensor that would cause it not to start and if so can it be easily replaced?
  • i have a 94 trooper, with new plugs, new fuel filter, new timing belt, ive done extensive work on this to get it running great. my latest problem is that when i start it, it takes a while before it fires up, once fired up runs great. only when the vehicle sits overnight or for a couple hours does this problem occur. if im driving it and turn it off then back on, it fires right up. what could this be?- jes
  • Just wanted to Thank You jjoker your suggestion was right on the money. Your method was quick, easy and a money saver.. Thank you again! :)
  • HI,
    I'm having a problem on cold mornings with a sluggish starter. The battery is nearly new and checks good. The alternator seems to be working fine and shows about 13 volts at idle and normal driving. The trooper has a feature where the alternator kicks out under a load or during acceleration. This makes it difficult/impossible for the parts places to check the alternator. Their meters require you to rev the engine whick causes the alternator to kick out and the meter says it has a problem, but I don't think it does as the guage shows it charging good during normal driving. I am wondering if the starter may be getting weak. It is a 97 trooper with the 3.2 and cranks fine after it has warmed up. Anyone have any suggestions.
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