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Isuzu Trooper Start Problems

24

Comments

  • Well, it isn't the starter. The mechanic tested the starter and it checked out fine. He replaced it, anyway, as it was under warranty. The mechanic suggested a cracked or loose fly wheel or loose torque converter bolts. At this point, I'm not sure what to think. The noise it makes upon starting is as if something is slipping, then catches. I had my serpentine belt replaced recently... :confuse:

    Sorry. I know this doesn't help you. Good luck with your problems.
  • tjm55tjm55 Posts: 3
    Any advise on changing the starter on a 2002 Isuzu Trooper V6? It looks like the exhaust may need to be removed. One mechanic I talked with said they cut the exhaust and re-weld it... that sounds like something that could just create more problems.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Hi, I have never heard of a reputable mechanic cutting a section out of any exhaust to change a starter, although I could imagine it being done. Usually they break the manifold bolts and you have to pay for them to repair them on top of the starter repairs.
    As to your particular model, I know because I have done it on my older model that you can get the starter out without removing any exhaust even though the service manual says to remove it.
    I got the tip from another owner that you drop the starter, remove the wires, then turn the steering all the way to the right and lock them in that position (turn off key). Remove the axle vent tube by carefully twisting it and pulling up until it comes out. Once that is done, unhook the lower wiring harness from the clips and rotate the starter to put the solenoid in a better position and pass it forward, moving the harness out of the way to do so. You may have to bend some of the thin bracket to allow the starter to clear, but it is pretty obvious once you are down there doing it. Once it is clear of the harness, turn the starter so that it is parallel to the steering drag link and it will drop down through and it is out! Reverse the process to reinstall.
    It does work because I have done it....twice. It is a little tricky getting it past the wiring, and I know that others have done it, including one guy who paid to have it done and found out that the dealer had done it as I describe but still charged the service manual rate.
    I cannot say for sure on your newer Trooper, but the engine and starter are virtually the same so I don't see why not.
    Good luck.
  • i took my starter out twice, because it benchtested ok and i thought i might have a switch problem, then after reinstalling it I tested the connections and it was in fact the starter. It looks a lot harder than it is, basically I removed the cross member(4 bolts, then the heat shield(2 bolts), then removed the exhaust pipe from the header (3 bolts) disconnect the O2 sensors, remove 4 bolts at the rear of the exhaust, backed the exhaust a few inches and remove 2 bolts holding the starter in place. then disconnect 1 wire and unplug 1 wire and it falls out. It took me about 30 min to remove it and another 30 to reinstall. One word of caution, its easy to cross thread the header bolts on the reinstall, but everything else is relatively easy. Good luck
  • tjm55tjm55 Posts: 3
    Great advise.

    The cutting and welding of the exhaust seemed pretty extreme.

    Thanks
  • tjm55tjm55 Posts: 3
    I'm going to tackle it over the weekend.
    Thanks for your help.

    It always makes me wonder who engineers these things to make it so difficult to get to things.

    I have an old 1987 Trooper that I had to change the water pump on, I had to pull most of the front of the motor apart.
  • rsh415rsh415 Posts: 1
    Hi I just had my starter replaced on my 99 Isuzu Trooper. The mechanic said I also needed a linkage fuse replaced. The problem is now when the truck excellerates when it shifts into gear theres a knock or thud in the truck. Also when the truck slows down from say 20mph to 10mph the same thud, like the gears are engaing to hard. Does this linkage fuse that was replaced have something to do know with the truck banging into gear hard when it speeds up or slows down? Does this linkage fuse have to be calibrated somewhere on the truck? Any information would be helpful...Thanks.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Hi and welcome to the forum.
    I took a quick look at
    www.myisuzuparts.com
    to see if I could find an inline fusible link for your vehicle. That site is a great site and is free, so check it out.
    I did not see any fusible link in the starter area, but I don't have your year so I am not familiar with your harness.
    You should ask the mechanic exactly which link he replaced....you paid him so he should be able to tell you how he knew to replace it. Isuzu put all the links I am aware of in the underhood fuse box, so it is interesting to hear there is one inline.
    Let us know what you find out, and you may get some more replys.
    One guys opinion, Good luck.
  • fmtwofmtwo Posts: 1
    have the same truck and had hard shifting problems too. chec the transfer case fluid level and lube the rear driveshaft and u-joints and see what happens. as for the fuseible link your tech is saying needs to be replaced my information doesn't show that as a problem. :mad:
  • Hello :) I have a 99 Isuzu Trooper that is giving me a hard time. I just bought the car... and it was doing GREAT. Now it will start fine at times, then it will start and shut off, and other times it will hesitate to start (act like it doesn't want to crank, hard time turning over) but starts. Once it starts no noises or anything coming from the car and no check engine lights come on. Any suggestions on how to fix??? Is it the starter, fuel pump. I also have a 93 trooper and it has never done this totally confused. Thanks for your help. :cry:
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Hi, welcome to the forum. I would look first at the battery in this case. Have it load tested to make sure it is OK. It may be that it has plates loose or shorting and the voltage is not constant. Poor voltage results in a lot of different problems and intermittent behavior. If you don't know the history on it, changing the fuel filter and checking fluids would be a real good idea. One guys opinion. Good luck, let us know what you find.
  • getwildegetwilde Posts: 1
    I'm going to try replacing the starter on my '96 trooper this weekend. I'm pleased to have found this hint by atfdmike. Can you tell me, does this work for the 4x4 model (which I have), or just 4x2? (Other sites mention that you needn't remove the exhaust for a 4x2, thus the question.)

    Thanks in advance
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Posts: 843
    This sounds more like the transmission mode switch. They get gunked up and can be cleaned or replaced. Sometimes just cycling the shift lever back and forth can clean it up. Also, if the mechanic 'moved' the mode switch it may not line up correctly now. Occasionally my '00 Trooper will shift hard like that...almost slamming into gear when downshifting. One indicator that this might be the problem would be that the transmission indicator lights in the dash might not display the correct position or even jump around out of sequence with when you are moving the shifter.

    Sorry I look to be late answering this one...just now noticed it is about 6 weeks since posted.

    Bill
  • tjgreentjgreen Posts: 1
    hello,
    i have a 93 4x4 that is doing the exact same. except now it makes no noise or action when the key is turned. the battery is new and shows 13.7 volts at full charge. jumper cables made no diff...just dead silence when the key is turned . i checked the fuses and found no problems.....so did you get yours figured out. i have pretty much decided my starter is fried. but if any one has a cheaper solution i am all ears.
  • jjokerjjoker Posts: 8
    I had what sounds to be the same exact problem you are referring to tjgreen and in my case it was the starter. I would turn the key, get no sound but the click of my key turning in the ignition. I even took out the starter, had it tested by a mechanic and they said it was good but I still got the same problem. I was able to get my old starter working again by taking it out (see Starter Problems thread for directions, it comes out easily if you search mine and aftmike's tips), get a can of electronic contact cleaner and clean all the connections really good on the solenoid and starter, then put it back in and make sure your connections are good and clean. I feel its worth a shot first before you pay for a new starter that can run you a lot of $$. Hope this helps.
  • mstoutmstout Posts: 6
    Anyone have any idea why no current to injectors on '93 Trooper, 3.2 SOHC? I thought fuel pump was bad so tested it and it's fine. No current going to pump either so bypassed it with wire hot only when key is turned. Pumps gas to engine now but still won't start. Starts for a second with starting fluid so there's fire. Disconnected alarm, still no luck. Recently had "check trans." light flashing now and then but even when cold. Recently changed trans. filter and oil to eliminate doubt. Still came on sometimes but didn't affect starts. Possible that the computer is shot? What would cut current to fuel pump and fuel injectors at the same time? Fuses are all fine. Please help, I've been without transportation for over a week and live far away from a reputable mechanic here in Costa Rica. Tow bill would be over $120.
    Mike
  • mstoutmstout Posts: 6
    My 93 Trooper, 3.2 automatic, decided not to start suddenly in a parking lot last week. Starts for a second with starting fluid. Took out fuel pump and it works fine. Found that there is no current to fuel pump so jumped it and pumps gas to engine but still doesn't start. No gas smell either. Fuses are all fine. What would fail all of a sudden and cut current to pump and injectors? I've located a used ECM but would appreciate any suggestions before buying it.
    Mike
  • mstoutmstout Posts: 6
    Trooper problem solved!!! Paid a car electrician to make a house call and after proding and testing things for over three hours, including dismantling the ECM to check circuitboard, problem was that no current to computer to control fuel pump and injectors. After a while looking for the actual problem in hidden wire, it was decided to run a new one from internal fuse box thus curing the problem and getting me back on the road. Almost bought a used ECM. Wheew! House call ran me $150. Well worth it. Pays to be patient. Hope this info is beneficial to others with similar problems.
  • mstoutmstout Posts: 6
    I was wondering why in the mornings my Trooper's battery was dead. Eventually I saw that at any given time, the headlights mysteriously would go on by themselves and are unable to be turned off by the interior switch or even by pulling the lighting relay out of the fuse box in the engine compartment. I totally disconnected the alarm to eliminate doubt. As it is now, I have to disconnect the battery every time I park it. Anyone with this same problem or any suggestions? Thanks.
    Mike
  • nqlblqnqlblq Posts: 4
    So I have an 89 Trooper RS (the 2-door).

    I was driving it home and all of the sudden all of the dummy lights came on. Gas, Brake, Battery, O2. The car kept running with all of the lights on.

    When I got home, I turned off the car and tried to turn it back on and it would start up and die immediately. I can get it to stay on if I leave the key in the "start" position in the ignition but once I let it back to "On" it dies.

    After I replaced the entire fuel system (except the pump which is a year old), the Air Mass Overflow, and the fuel pump relay and the main engine relay - it still wouldn't start.

    That when I looked at the fuse box. I took out the main engine relay (big blue one on the outside of the fuse box) and it fired up. It started and ran really rough. All of the lights were off and I could drive it around - barely.

    When you put the MER back in, the lights come back on and when I turn it off, it won't restart.

    I'm basically out of ideas here. Anyone run into a similar problem? Or have any ideas about what else I should replace
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    I don't have the first gen Trooper, BUT I do have some experience with the problem you describe. I would check the alternator. It is often the root cause of a number or problems you describe when it goes bad. At least have it checked before investing more money, I am thinking when you turn key to start it takes the alternator out of the circuit, like removing the fuse, and the engine runs poorly on battery power alone. Your battery may be close to too low to even run the engine by now. One guys opinion.
  • nqlblqnqlblq Posts: 4
    atfdmike had it right - alternator.

    Ran through the entire engine looking for any and all problems and found that the alt was bad. Went to napa dropped a hundred bucks and bam - starts right up.

    thanks mike.
  • starts right up in the morning, but if you go down the road a little ways then shut it off and try to restart it smells like gas real bad and wont start. sometimes it will if you push the pedal to the floor and crank on it.
  • my isuzu starts but then after five or six seconds shuts down, already change gas pump, filter, but she still does the same thing. Help!
  • mywarmywar Posts: 1
    HI- My trooper has a hard time staying running when it is cold. Initially to get the car started, I have to hold the key in the start position and give it gas. If I can get the engine to rev up to 5k rpms then the car will idle and stay running like nothing is wrong. Otherwise the engine starts and runs for a second and then dies. Again I must rev the engine to 5k rpms during startup and after that the car idles normally and runs. Before the car dies, all warning lights flicker and there is no heat/ac air. I have replaced the alternator and starter in within the last year. Any help or suggestions would be much appreciated. thanks
  • 03Bob03Bob Posts: 4
    The dreaded remove & replace starter hit me today. This forum has been very helpful in sorting out what needs to be done to remove the starter. I thought I would be in for the manifold battle but found a trick(on this forum) with sending it forward. But wait.... I was able to sneak the starter past the exhaust pipe by getting the starter in just the right attitude. I did have to drop the crossmember, 4 bolts, but compared to dropping the y pipe....priceless. So passing this along to add another way to R&R the starter.
    I believe this is a classic case of Divine Intervention. :shades:

    additional: starter was tested by jumper cable to starter stud. No joy(or motor spin)
    conclude starter is used up.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    I would start by checking connections on alternator, and grounds from engine to chassis. It really does sound like an alternator problem, especially when the warning lights and blower don't work right. Isuzu has a funny wiring for the alt/charging system, and it is not unusual for an alt to test OK but still not work properly with the system. I would start with the above and then move on to checking the alt and connections by cleaning and re tightening before finally assuming the alt is bad again. HTH One guys opinion.
  • dale26dale26 Posts: 1
    Just bought a 89 trooper 4 cly.4x4,have a real hard time getting it started.once it starts it runs fine no smoke or noise .but really hard to start.I replaced the fuel reglator.noticed that the fuel pump didnt come on when key was turned on.BUT if you pull out the start relay the fuel pump will come on.i havent checked the fuel pressure but seems fine.have changed plugs,wires,cap nad rotor.can any one tell me what the problem is thanks
  • ryanmacryanmac Posts: 1
    before i can can start my 3.1 diesel isuzu troop i have to pump up the fuel filter till i can here the fuel pushing throught the outlet pipe then i goand start it and try to rev it and only takes me up to 1500 rpm and then a bout 2 minutes later it will dies unless i have someone pumping the fuel filter and i managed to get it up 3500 rpm any ideas ?
  • buggyguybuggyguy Posts: 1
    I have a 94 trooper. that I am having a hard time with. it will start on starting fluid. but after the starting fluid runs out it will still run if you pump the pedal. it runs really bad after the starting fluid runs out and it pops in the intake.I have changed the fuel pump and the map senser. I have 40lbs in the fuel rail.
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