Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Porsche 944 and 924

245

Comments

  • For a 911 as new as that yes, that is a reasonable price. You could maybe get it about a thousand less because of the miles, but your doin good. Enjoy the car. Any problems feel free to email me with questions!
  • I have recently begun the lovely and exciting idea (what the hell was I thinking) of restoring my 1985 944. Everything has gone pretty well until I have just recently hit a spot that I am stuck. I am removing all of my carpeting and replacing with new. now all of it is out except the very front where the driver and passenger legs go this seems to be a major pain in the *%#. I would greatly appreciate anybody who could help and if possible step by step instructions for this removal and install.
    Thanks,
    pitboss29
  • Here you go, check this website. It is for proffesional auto technicians and they can definitly help you out quickly. http://www.iatn.net/
  • todd82tatodd82ta Posts: 32
    Hi Pitboss! You'll need to remove the dash. I know, it sounds like a huge pain in the [non-permissible content removed], but there's almost nothing to the Porsche 944, even the 85.5+ models. There are a couple of 10mm bolts holding it down under the dash, and then near the tops under the dash. I think it's five 10mm bolts all together. I don't believe your 85.5 (does it have the new interior?) uses a speedometer cable, but if it does, you just need to remove that. Everything else should be able to lift up. You can then access the carpeting. It's easier to re-install the carpet this way too.
  • cejr3cejr3 Posts: 2
    I have a 1986 Porsche 944 non turbo that the cruise control doesn't work on, any suggestions on where to start?

    Thanks in advance,

    CJ
  • todd82tatodd82ta Posts: 32
    Yeah, there is a cruise module located under the hood, just in front of the battery on the passenger side. This sometimes goes bad. The only thing you can do really is just replace it. The 944 doesn't use any computer control for the crusie control, it's just a motor style module that connects in the engine bay.
  • cejr3cejr3 Posts: 2
    Thanks so much Todd! I am going to switch it out.

    CJ
  • 1985 944 . The battery is discharging. finally heard the blower motor running (very faint) when I was replacing the battery once again. The blower screen/cover in place I could hear the faint sound of the motor running. Is it a RELAY, or the switch on the dash?
    not knowing were to look,can I replace the relay first ? Need Help !!
    Tom :confuse:
  • Hi IronHorse,

    Couple of things to consider. As with all Porsches, they are often over-engineered. Believe it or not, when you turn the ignition key in an early 944 to the on position. Even if the car isn't running, the VENT fan will run at 1/2 it's lowest speed. This is part of the mandated "flow-through" fresh air venting. The Porsche 944 actually has TWO cabin fan. There is the primary fan which is mounted front and center in the cowl area, this is called the "VENT FAN". The secondary fan is built into the A/C system under the passenger side dash. Although it's really odd... there are two fan controls (as you'll see). There is the huge A/C fan (which only recirculates air through the cabin) and the vent fan which brings in fresh air, and that is controlled by the knob a little bit lower down (to the left of the vent sliders).

    So, as I mentioned, the vent fan will ALWAYS run when the key is in the ignition and anywhere other than OFF. If it's running with the key out of the ignition, then you have a problem.

    HOWEVER... don't be confused (more about this overengineering stuff). When you've driven your Porsche 944... one of the radiator fans will remain ON (in a slow speed) when you shut the car off. The reason for this was to help lower the temperature of the radiator in case you start the car up again within a short period of time. The technical reason why this happens is because the fan switch is nothing more than a temperature sensor that is mounted on the drivers side rear of the radiator. The fan has a constant hot on one end, and a ground that persists through the sensor. When the sensor is hot (even when the car is off, and the key is out of the ignition) it will run. This is normal (although a bit annoying).

    As long as you can make sure that this is what you've been worried about, then you shoudl be OK!
  • Thanks for the reply,,BUT...the battery is discharging due to a closed contact,leaving the battery to died after a week or so. There is NO key or start here. the car is stored
    in my garage & not a daily driver,so after a week or two the battery is dead or at least needs a jump. the faint noise is from the the engine's bay, cowl near the firewall/windshield location. I believe the faint noise is the blower unit not turning off. If I disconnect the battery ,it goes off. place the cable back on the noise is there once again. No startup or ign. is needed to cause this problem. So I have to believe it's a relay or switch causing this "closed" circuit ? Where do I start ,the relay ; fresh air blower relay G1 sells for about 10 dollars. Is this it ? & where is it located on the dash? If it's not the relay ,can it be the switch on the DASH as you mentioned?
    I can get both parts but would like to eliminate the battery discharge now. Perhaps its the Ign switch ,some one said,but with the key out can there be this problem?
  • Hi IronHorse, ok, that noise you hear is definitely the vent fan. I DO believe there is a relay that controls this. However, since you have a 1985, I'm not totally sure. In 85, they changed the model half way through the year, and the two are completely different electrically, and somewhat mechanically as well (as well as a completely new interior). The easiest way to tell is... if you have the interior of a 924, then you have an early 85, if you have the same interior that the late 80s 944s have, then you have the 85.5. I don't know if you already know this, but for the sake of explanation, I figured I'd throw that in. On the old models, the fan relay I BELIEVE is located on the second row (further back). You'll want to check that. On the newer ones, I have no clue, but I am pretty sure there should still be a relay for it.

    Also... I don't think this is it... but I would check. There is a motor (believe it or not) for the cruis control. In the older 944s (83-85), this motor is located on the rivers side, near the cowl, right inside the engine bay in front of the engine. When these go bad... they just run forever. A quick fix is to simply disconnect it's wiring harness. Not sure if this could be your problem, but I would just check it out to be sure. My 84 944 had a battery discharge problem, and that ended up being the culprit.

    Hope that helps.

    I would also suggest you check out www.RennList.com it's a really great web site and there are like several thousand people on that list with 944s.
  • Thanks for the suggestions,
    The blower FAN ,sounds to be the problem,since I removed the battery cable the fan turns off,attach the batter leads and on it goes. there is NO key or IGN on .
    So is it a RELAY? if so where is it located ? or the next step.....
    Tom
  • To lady in Milwaukee. If I had to do it again, I would spend more for a cleaner car, the devil is in the details. I have an early 83, I think, under the hood it says March 1982. I have a booklet, the types dimensions and tolerances put out for Porsche on 944's. It says for Model 82,83 . What is the difference and is my March 1982 referred to as an early 83? Jon
  • Yeah, I completely agree. I just sold my 1984 Porsche 944, and took a huge loss. I had 8 cars, and my wife is pregnant so I thought I'd downsize to 6. Porsche had to go. I spent $1,200 buying the car, put about $4,000 into the car, and sold it for $2,000. It's just one of those things...

    I kept some of the really rare pieces (like the Euro front bumper, etc). I do plan to get another one, but when I do I'll probably spend an extra 2 grand up front to save me from having to dump twice that into t later.

    I've learned that, at least on a 944... for every $1,000 you save, you end up spending $2,000 to bring it to the condition you would otherwise have if you spent the $1000 in the beginning. :)
  • What is the difference between the 82 and 83. What do I call my March 82 944, is that an early 83 or something else? I have the 3 blade fans. My vin is WPOAAO949DN450293 my original registration shows YR. Model 82. My 944 is slow off the line, kind of feels fuel starved, it bucks a bit. I have new fuel injectors. After that first 3 seconds or so it performs flawlessly. The car came in around Port Hueneme California. What site can I go to, to see the paint choices in 1982? They are slightly different from 83 I believe. I can see the names but not the paint chips.
  • Skidder, I assume you're in the United States, right? If yours is indeed a 1982 model, then it's pretty rare. VERY few of the 1982 models actually made it to the United States (something to the tune of about 100 or so). It doesn't particularly make it any more valuable... but it does make it significantly more rare since the model wasn't introduced in the United States until 1983. It was introduced in Europe in 1982.

    The problem you're having is without a doubt, a problem with your AFM (Air Fuel Meter). That is that grey looking thing with the grey flap in it. It's inline of your intake and it bolts onto the back of your air box. Those get old, and the gradiated sensor on the door gets worn out. I was able to buy a rebuilt one by Python on eBay for $75 bucks. They are pretty expensive. A new one is about $250 bucks. But I guarantee to you that your car will run like brand new.

    Another thing to take a look at would be your "reference" sensors. They are located on top of the transmission bell-housing. They normally sell for something like $200 each, BUT... BMW used these same sensors in the 7 series model back in the early 80s. You can buy these for $75, and they are identical in every way... the only difference is that the length of the wires are a little bit longer, but that's not a problem.

    I would check the AFM first though.

    You could also need a new TPS (throttle position sensor). That's much cheaper, and easier to replace... but I still think it's your AFM.

    I would go to RennList.com
  • Dear Todd82ta: Thank you so much for that information, You should know I am so appreciative of this info.. I don't know how to thank you, unless on the slight chance you are a hunter, I have a large tract of land in Southern New Hampshire you could hunt on. I am Skidder440 with a 1982 model 944. Celebrating my 10th anniversary with my first and only, thanks for helping me to make it even better, it could use all the help. Jon
  • Hey man, no problem, I'm really glad I could help. NH is an awesome state. I've never hunted anything, but my grandfather owns land in the mountains and a cabin in West Virginia. I proposed to my wife up there. I live in Fort Lauderdale though.

    If you get bored, check out my site... lots of pictures of my 944 if you're curious about some of the work I've gone through fixing it up.

    http://www.PontiacPerformance.Net

    unfortunately, I don't have my 944 anymore, but you can see it if you click on "Past Cars" and scroll down to the bottom.
  • I live in galveston behind seawall and never had water this high since 1900 storm. in fact, never had water in garage since house built in 1901 whcih it has seen at least 7 large storms.

    i left the porsche in garage and the water got about 15" high, several inches under the fuses & relays-which they do not appear to be blown except 1 fuse which was replaced. the interior dried out nicely. The oil & filetr was changed. The battery was drained and it recharged fine. I have lights. The engine will not turn over and the only sound is the vent fan and what may be the gasoline pump. I do not see relay for starter listed in owner's manual? since the battery was drained, could the water over the starter fried the starter? or any other possibilities. Please Help! I have restored most of this car at cost of about 18k over last 15 years and really feel bad that we did not have the one more driver to get it to Houston before storm.

    Thanks
    Ted Labuzan
  • Hi Ted, I hope I can be of some help. Feel free to e-mail me at JaspersT@Dolphins.NFL.com if you have any specific questions.

    Basically... the starter COULD very well have been damaged by the water. But you would more than likely at least hear something. There are some easy things you can check, but with respect to the starter itself, there are TWO things you can do. 1) You'll want to check that in fact the IGNITION wire is giving power to the starter. Of course, the heavy gauge battery cable connects to it directly, but secondly, when you start the car, you feed power to the solenoid / starter mechanism which engages the starter. I believe this is your problem. I don't think the starter is getting power from the ignition.

    2) You can test the starter on a bench by jumping it with a car charger.

    Now, with respect to the ignition, there are TWO things that I can think of initially that would cause this. Does your car have the "factory alarm system"? If you see a lock that's on your drivers side, just behind the drivers side door (and not to be confused with the one in the door), then you have the factory alarm. These fail when they get wet, and I BELIEVE the control box is mounted somewhere on the passenger side floor (maybe under the seat?). Now, this alarm is an immobilizer that actually de-activates the ignition, preventing you from being able to start the car.

    The OTHER thing that might cause this, is the DME relay. You should always keep a spare with you, because these can tend to leave you stranded. If the DME relay isn't connected, it would prevent you from being able to start the car. In your car, it's in the second row of the fuse block (where the relays all are) and it's the long one in the back. Refer to the chart in your manual to see specifically where it is.

    Good luck!

    Todd
  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 976
    I hope you can answer questions here instead of email -- your answers are bound to help a lot of other members :-)

    MODERATOR
    Need help getting around? claires@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • Todd,
    thanks for help

    i looked in owner's manual and it does not show a relay for starter or solenoid and I could not figure out how the appx 1.5" x .5" x .5" relays come out (ie i tugged on one). there are aeveral ones listed in manual as "not used". however, it appears all sockets are used. there is one much longer than the others.

    there is no factory alarm.

    Ted
  • Have a 1985 944. Went and got a book to start doing some work on it since I can not get the Sunroof to work. Unfortunately in the book there was nothing on the sunroof. I can't get it to lock into place in the back. Any ideas what the issues might be? I tried the manual over ride and even that didn't work
  • Hi R85Baby,

    I assume you've got an electric sunroof, right? There is an adjustment and it can be made at the sunroof motor location which is in the drivers side rear quarter. You have to pull the carpet back (as you may already know) and it's mounted to a bracket up against the firewall there.

    The adjustment isn't so obvious, but if there's slack you should be able to loosen everything and make it taught.

    Do you know for a fact that the sunroof can physicially close by itself without the cables? What is the condition of the sunroof seals?
  • LA_ICELA_ICE Posts: 1
    I have had my 944 sitting in the garage for the past year after an accident. I am at the stage of bleeding the clutch and have some difficulties. When the clutch is depressed the peddle springs to the floorboard of the car. I have read some bleeding directions but cannot begin to bleed the system as long as it has no hydraulic action. The brake/clutch fluid is full and I need to know where to start with the clutch.
  • Actually, it shouldn't be too bad. The hardest part will be bleeding the clutch slave cyl on the transmission. But, start with the clutch master cyl first (on the firewall right behind the clutch pedal in the engine compartment). What you want to do is remove the clutch line from the clutch master cyl first. Put a LOT of rags down to catch the brake fluid. As you know, brake fluid is VERY caustic to paint and some people even use it as a paint stripper.

    Anyway, remove the clutch line. Take the cap off the top, and fill it with clean fluid. Have someone go into the car and depress the clutch pedal until you start to see fluid come out of the clutch cyl.

    To be honest, your best bet is to get a master cyl bleeding kit. It's basically a tube that screws into the clutch line opening on the cyl, and you put the end of the tube in a can of brake fluid. As you depress, it will push the air out, and when you release, it will suck in fluid. You keep doing this until you get ALL the air out.

    You'll want to disconnect the clutch line at the slave cyl, and then siphon (or force rather) fresh fluid through the clutch line at the master cyl side. When you think it's full, tape off the end (so it doesn't leak) and then quickly attach the clutch hydraulic line to the clutch master cyl. Hopefully, the clutch slave cyl doesn't need to be bled, and you can just hook the ine up directly.

    You should have plenty of clutch action at that point.
  • i have what apears to be an oil leak,coming fron under my dist cap. pressure stays at four,never below two.
  • Hi John, I assume you're talking about a 944, right, with the distributor coming off the front of the cam tower?

    It's not common for it to leak at the distributor, but it's still entirely possible. It's kind of a pain to get to, really, because you'll need to remove the cam cover as well. You definitely want to do this because you don't want any oil getting onto the timing belts, which would totally destroy your valves and possibly the cyl head.

    You'll want to order a gasket kit first, and then remove the timing cover. Just work slowly, and you'll see how to remove everything. (Take the distributor cap off first obviously).

    You'll want a cam gasket, and the camshaft seal gasket.

    You can get those cheap from 944Online.Com

    Hope that helps...
  • I just bought an 86 944, this car has been sitting for three years, and turns over when fed fuel through the air intake. I want to do the job right, and end up with a daily driver here. I have no idea what kinds of problems I am looking at, but I do want to equip myself with what I need to get started. How should I handle the fuel tank? Is it easy to remove, or should I try to clean it intact? I plan to clean the entire fuel system, but what kind of problems should I look for, injectors, dampers, pump, lines?? What is the best way to clean those lines?? I was told that the car would not hold a charge before it was parked three years ago. It would run, but after parked would need to be charged before it would start again. Battery will be replaced, but should this be an alternator problem or just a regulator? I will have the car at home this weds morning, but until then I am researching in the dark, and looking for advice. I<img src=" want to bring this pretty little car back to life and have it reliable. How much should I plan on spending to ge the timing done, and the typical 120K mile stuff? Thanks so much for any help, I am thinking this site will be a great resource for me.
  • todd82tatodd82ta Posts: 32
    Hi Pet944Car (didn't see your name),

    You'll want to treat this just as you would any other vehicle that's been sitting for this long. However, there are several things that are critically important on a Porsche 944 that would otherwise not be so critical on other cars.

    Before I start, I just want to warn you... for a Porsche 944 that's been sitting, you're probably looking at close to $2,000 in parts, (not labor, it assumes you do it all yourself), minimum, to get the car running decently, and in the condition that you would feel proud to drive it. With that said... seriously consider if it's worth it to you to spend this kind of money, versus getting one that's already running and in decent shape on eBay or somewhere else. I TOTALLY know how it is. It's been the story of my life. I took a Porsche 944 that was complete, and ended up spending upwards of $4,000 on it... and the engine was SOLID, didn't have to tear into the motor, or the transmission. It still needed another good $1,000.

    I bought it for $1,200, spent $4,000 on it, and sold it for $2,100... yup...

    Anyway, to see the entire rebuild I did, go to http://www.PontiacPerformance.Net and click on Past Cars (it's all the way at the bottom).

    Anyway, to answer your question... the most critical thing on a Porsche 944 is the timing belt. It's an interference motor, so if the belt snaps, you destroy all your valves, and possibly the cyl head and pistons depending on the RPM of the engine at the time the belt snaps. Belt service usually costs around $350-500 for the minimal service. Since you have a 1986, you'll only need to go in once (all 1985.5 Porsche 944s got the belt tensioner which doesn't require the every 10k mile belt tensioning).

    Anyway, it's important that you get those belts inspected. There are two, one that goes to the cam and the crank, and the other that goes from the cam to the balancing shafts.

    You can inspect them by removing the timing cover. If you see that they're frayed, any cracks ANYWHERE, teeth missing on the belt, or they are excessively loose, then before you do ANYTHING, have it towed to a Porsche shop to have them replaced.

    Cars on eBay (if you were to resell them) are worth about $500 more JUST by providing proof that the belts have been changed within the past 2 years.

    As far as the fuel system goes. I wouldn't worry too much about it, but you'll want to drain the fuel tank. Disconnect the rubber hose that connects to the bottom of the fuel tank, and allow it all to drain into a pan (you can use it in your lawn mower). The fuel tank is a dry sump tank (excellent design), so it's easy to clean and drain. Basically, all the sediment leaves the tank continuously and gets filted through the fuel filter, rather than most tanks that are fed through the top (and all the sediment sits at the bottom). Definitely overengineered.

    In my opinion, I would recommend replacing all the rubber portions of your fuel system. That means EVERYTHING from the body lines (just forward of the transmission (which as you know is mounted in the rear) all the way to the fuel tank. This will cost you about $300 bucks in parts. It includes several pieces as well as a new fuel filter and the rubber hose that connects the tank to the external fuel pump (also a great design).

    You'll also want to replace the fuel lines from the body lines to the fuel rail in the engine compartment. A lot of people have lost their 944s due to this.

    Other than that, check your brakes, I would change all the fluids in the vehicle. Oil, gear oil, coolant, and brake fluid. Even change your power steering fluid.

    Change the plugs, wires, cap & rotor.

    There are also several components specific to this fuel injection design that can fail and can cause the fuel pump not to run.

    Before spending money on replacement parts, check to make sure that the fuel pump is in fact running. You said you can get it to run with stuff being sprayed in the throttle body. One thing to consider is this.. when you disconnect the air intake tube, you're bypassing the AFM (Air Flow Meter). This will prevent the car from being able to run (I assume you know this already).

    The other thing is... the fuel pump will not turn on if certain conditions are met. Do you have the factory alarm? (you would have a second door lock slot on the drivers side quarter just behind the drivers side door). This fails (often) and prevents the car from starting. If you don't have that, then the next thing is the DME. This relay (located under the dash) can fail, and will prevent the fuel pump from getting voltage.

    Yet ANOTHER thing that will prevent the car from running are the crank sensors. if they don't sense the crank moving, they won't provide power to the fuel pump either. The ECM is clearly moving as you are getting voltage to the ignition (obviously since you can get it to run with fuel).

    So I would check those.

    A quick easy way to tell if those are bad is to hook up a power lead directly from the battery, to the positive terminal on the fuel pump (located behind the rear passenger side wheel well). You can hook it up, and then quickly run around to the drivers side and try to start the car. If it runs, then you have a problem with those things I mentioned above. If you need new crank sensors (known as "reference sensors" you can get more information on my web site under Tech Articles. There are cheaper ones than the standard Porsche ones that work JUST as well.

    Chances are, depending on mileage and how long the car has sat, you'll also need a new AFM. They run about $350-400 bucks for a Porsche 944... yeah, I know... they can be rebuilt so you can get a good rebuilt one from a company named "Python" for about half that.

    Feel free to e-mail me if you have any specific questions... or need more help.

    It's a great car when it runs...

    Hopefully you don't have any sunroof leaks... otherwise you've got quite a bit more fun ahead of you.
Sign In or Register to comment.