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Ford Ranger Starting Problems

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  • i had a problem similar to this in my 94 ranger 3.0. We replaced the fuel pump and strainer, everything was fine then one day it started idle low and die sometimes not starting until i relived pressure off the tank from turning gas cap. anyway one day it dawned on me to clean the tank and i haven't had an issue since, just be careful cause normal jacks arn't tall enough to lift the backend enough to get the tank out, other thing could also be iac on top throttle body, mainly be cause overtime it gets gunked up and the bypass inside stops working right.
  • had same issue, whenyou try to start it after warm up does it sound normal but like its not getting fuel, if this is the case replace fuel pump and strainer and clean out tank for good measure, most people dont realize if you got tarnish in your gas tank only a matter of time before it gettings in fuel line and works its way to engine and injectors this cause worst problom gumming up injectors and pushing contaminents in to the engine.
  • I have a 95 Ranger and the problem may be the same as yours and like many in here also. Before trying expensive answers try this one. There's a wire that comes off of the battery, grounding it to the frame. The negative battery cable is 4 gauge and the little wire is maybe 8 to 10 gauge. Sometimes that wire gets corroded. Try unscrewing it from the frame and scuff it on both the washer and frame where they meet with a wire brush, before reconnecting it. If that doesn't work, replace it completely. You can do that at just about any NAPA store. I work for one, and we do all kinds of custom wiring stuff for people. The parts shouldn't cost more than 10 bucks. That seemed to cure my ill for awhile anyway. (knock on wood) :)
  • Solenoid on the driver side fender under hood take a screw driver bypass it
  • Been having some issues lately with my Ranger cranking up. For a while I thought it had been the battery so I get it changed but that was not it so I took it to O'Reillys and the technician began putting Sea-Foam in the carborator every few weeks. This seemed to work but wasn't getting rid of the problem. I took it back today for another can of the Sea-Foam and the technician asked me what kind of gas I use. I said I use regular unleaded, he suggested using premium because of the wear and tear I put on the engine for all the travel I do. So I went to the gas station, got premium gas, and made it home which is about 40 miles away with no problem. However when i got in the drive way I turned the truck off for a minute then tried to crank it back up. Now it will not crank, engine seems like it doesn't want to turn over, cant get anything to happen.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Check the battery cables, both of them, for corrision. Might even be inside the insulation, acid will get down in there and eat the copper cable up.
  • My 96 Ranger, 2.3L automatic will not start if the temp outside is 10 degrees or less. It will crank but not start. The lights, dash lights etc work fine. The battery is new. I've had the fuel pump, fuel filter, plugs and wires and the cold/hot sensor (talked about in other posts - located on top of the engine by the timing belt) changed. My mechanic can't figure it out. I've read some of the other posts here about ECC and fuel relays and MAP etc but I'm not sure this would have anything to do with my problem. Has anyone had or heard about this before?
  • Have you tried a block heater or dip stick type heater on those cold nights? Cold weather thickens the oil and makes starting more difficult even if you have a brand new battery. Even a heat lamp under the engine block would probably help.
  • No I haven't tried that but I will. Thanks
  • mandylnnmandylnn Posts: 2
    i have a 94 ranger, at first I thought that it was the alternator, but the gauges are not messing up and the lights don't dim. at times when driving it will lose power and I have to down shift to keep it from dying and hold the gas down and then it comes out of it . when first starting the truck I have to pump the gas, then I have to sit a few mins to let it warm up or if I try to take off right away it will die. while waiting as it idles it will rev up on its own and idle high for about a min and then drop down and its good to go. .... anyone have any ideas on where to start ?? :confuse:
  • KCRam@EdmundsKCRam@Edmunds Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,495
    That sounds like a fuel pump issue, not an electrical problem. And at almost 20 years old, that's not too bad if it's still the original factory pump.

    kcram - Pickups/Wagons/Vans+Minivans Host

    KCRam - Pickups/Wagons/Vans+Minivans Moderator

  • I have a 2004 ford ranger edge with the 3.0 6 cylinder with 217,000 miles. Check engine light came on almost 2 years ago with around 140,000 miles. Ford said that it was coming back as lean fuel and that the fuel pump was not pumping to full compacity. I replaced the fuel cap instead of replacing the pump and the check engine light stayed off for about 2 months before coming back on. It has been on ever since. About 6 months ago every once in a while when gas level dropped around 3/8 of a tank or less and it had been being driven for 4 or more hours at a time it would start cutting out and jerking. You could even stop and kill it and let it set for 10 to 15 minutes and it would still cut out and jerk. But if you stopped and put 3 or more gallons of gas in it, it would run fine. It did not do this often, just every now and than. A couple of nights ago while driving it just cut off. So I checked the fuses and relays to the fuel pump and the powertrain control module which were ok. Also checked the spark plug wires and I am getting fire. Could not hear the fuel pump kick in so I put in a new motor craft fuel pump and fuel filter. It still does not start. Listened but cannot hear the new fuel pump kick in when turning on the key. When installing the new pump I checked to make sure that there was voltage in the wires to the pump and there was when key was turned on. Not sure where to go from here. Was wondering if it might be the computer or powertrain control module that might be bad. Has anybody had an issue like this or have any idea what might be wrong?
  • kev_mac007kev_mac007 Posts: 1
    hey i need help with my 1995 ford ranger. first i will tell you what happened. i woke up in the morning and tried to start my truck and turned out that my starter was fried. so i bought a new one and put it on.and decided that it would be a good idea to change the solenoid at the same time. mind you the solenoid was working fine before i changed it. now how ever i have no power to any lights or the interior of the truck, unless i jump the solenoid and hold the key in the forward possition. any help would be much appreciated.
  • My 03 ranger won't start after a little driving it turns over sputters runs flat for a few seconds then stops. Has good fuel pressure have it towed to the shop and it will then start for them. Can't afford the $65 towing bill so they can't find the problem the truck only has 19,000 miles!! Forddriver3
  • 1995 Ford Ranger 4 cylinder 200k+

    Hi all, I am having some start up problems and having trouble narrowing down the cause. It should be noted (please don't just assume this is the problem, I only mention it because it should be noted and kept in mind) this truck has had electrical problems since it came off the lot waaay back when. I have even had to create a switch to the fuse panel for turning off the door ding because it would drain the battery down even while just sitting. Also, I do not drive/get out much, only about once a week and even then only a few miles at a time (I mention this because I did read that this type of driving can be hard on a battery so I thought it worth mentioning).

    It start a month ago when the truck just did not turn over at all, just that clicking sound. Radio and lights all worked fine but nothing else. It ended up turning over and starting a few minutes/tries later and acted fine for about a month. Then it just didn't start at all, same as before but no matter how many tries or how long I waited it did nothing, even jumping it would do nothing. We assumed it was the starter so we took it off and had it tested, it came back fine. We then tested the battery and found out it had a bad cell (or two), so we replaced it and it was fine for about a week or two. Right off the bat, I could tell (only slightly but it was there) that it was having a hard time turning over. Today it had a very hard time turning over and after a quick trip to the gas station it did the exact same thing as before - it would click and the radio, lights, etc.. worked fine but it would not turn over at all, even while trying to jump it.

    Since it was acting exactly like before I naturally assumed the cells had gone bad and that I had gotten a bad battery (would not be the first time for me). We popped the clutch to get it started and it did, so we headed to the store. The battery tests came back good, all systems worked perfectly even under a load test. We put the battery back in but noticed part of the ground/negative cable was a bit loose and tightened it up (again, I just thought this was worth mentioning but I cannot say definitively that this was the problem). Well, it ended up starting though it did have a hard time turning over again. We took a couple of quick trips (2-3) here and there, turning the truck off and sitting for a while then starting it back up again. It continued to work fine, no turning over problems after that initial start up.

    It just seems to be very erratic about how it acts which is why I wanted to post here and get some advice/help. It doesn't seem to be the alternator because again the battery tests came back clean and it would definitely have been dead by now given the amount of use and time since I replaced the battery. We are inclined to think that it might be bad cables and that is the next troubleshoot as soon as we can get around to it (I will post afterwards but it might take time to truly see if that was the problem or not). The starter tested fined a couple of weeks ago when had the last problem, although I guess that does not rule it out 100%. Maybe the solenoid as well?

    What is everyone's opinions? Many thanks in advance for any help!
  • i am having an issue with my 2000 ranger with 126k miles on it. i was driving home than all of a sudden i lost my rpm's, mph, and battery gauges. radio went out lights went out and the truck shut off. i thought it was the alternator BUT it did not kill my battery i waited about 20 minutes and the truck started right up drove it about 2 miles and it did the same thing, it seems to die completely after a couple miles but she starts back up, Weird?. any help would be greatly appreciated thank you.
  • i check all battery cables n cleaned the terminals on the battery,
  • just saw your reply .. I did end up replacing the fuel pump because one morning when leaving for work the truck would not start at all. I had my dad come over to look at it and he told me that the fuel pump wasnt kicking on. so I got a new fuel pump and still no luck and tested the one that we took out. put a battery charger to and it kicked on .. idk what wire he took and grounded it to the frame of the truck but it worked and the truck starts now but that still didn't solve the problem because it still has issues with starting because there isn't a connection being made somewhere :(
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