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Ford Ranger Starting Problems

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  • I hav a 1990 Ranger, starts perfect after let sit for a bit but to turn the truck off to get gas then when i go to start up and pull away the motor wurls over but wont go, seems to me like its flooding itself. i bought a new battery for it yesterday so i no its getting enough juice, but ihav also put a MAP sensor,throttle body on this truck, other times it just wont go and have to get it towed, when i jump start it it takes a while to get it going seems like its not getting gas at first then it spits for a bit then eventully it runs good and suggestions?????????
  • I have a 1991 Ford Ranger, 4 cylinder, manual transmission. It will not start. When key is turned, it will click one time. It did this a month ago. Put in new battery, had starter tested at Autozone. Starter was ok. After putting starter back in, I jumped the solonoid and it started. Then it started every time until now. Now it has quit again. Same symptoms. Has new battery, cables are clean and connected well, starter is ok. When key is turned, it will click once, that is it. I can jump the solonoid and nothing happens. I thought is solonoid was bad, then jumping it would tell me because it would start, but it doesn't. Any ideas on what my problem is??? Note: I can push it off and crank it, so it is definetly an electrical problem.
  • When you say you are jumping the solenoid, are you jumping from large post to large post, or are you just puting a screw driver between the little post and big one? Some of them solenoids its pretty hard to get from big post to big post. I would use a set of jumper cables to help you here. Run the negative between the block and battery. Then connect the positive up, and touch it to the starter side of the solenoid. If you are jumping it correctly and nothing is happening check to make sure your starter is tight,and the mating surface between the starter and block are clean. I have seen oil leaks make for a hard start some times.

    One thing to remember. When autozone tests your starter. Its a no load test. Meaning if you are having problems with bad bearings in your starter it wont show up there. I would pull the starter again, and hold the gear in the nose, and shake it. If you hear a clunking sound, its not a good sound. You need to replace that starter, the bearings have gone bad. You can also just look at the bearings in the nose and see if there is alot of play there as well.

    One more thing. Is the positive cable getting warm to the touch when you are jumping the solenoid?

    If so I would also do a touch inspection on the ENTIRE length of the battery-to-starter positive cable. If it has rubbed on the exhaust or frame in a hard to see place, you wont notice it, but it will ground out the starter every time.

    Electricity chooses the path of least resistance, and that starter is a huge resistor when engaging the flywheel.
  • when i try to start my truck i just clicks and other times it starts right up so i replaced the starter relay. with the car shut off i connect the red-black wire to the battery it turns over and acts like it wants to start but when you use the key it just clicks. then i replaced the starter solenoid and the truck does the same thing can you help
  • If your solenoid is just clicking, then you need to charge the battery or replace it. I would take to whatever battery store you use, and have them charge it.

    You need 100 amp hours to fully charge a completely discharged battery. So to figure out what you think you need, if you charge a battery at 2amps for 8 hours that is 16 amp hours. The faster you charge a battery the faster you wear it out. A fast charge (over 20amps) will cause the lead plates to vibrate and shake off material, and you risk overheating the battery and boiling out electrolyte.

    If your solenoid is clicking, I would say you probably need atleast 10-20 amp hours. So if you take it to wally world, and have them charge it on slow charge (2A), leave it with them for atleast 5hrs or all day. Then have them test it for you with a load. Have them burn off the top charge though, otherwise it will test wrong. They can do that by connecting it to a car with jumper cables and turning the lights and fan on in the car for about 10-20sec.
  • Will not start. The truck is getting spark, Gas, etc. We have replaced the crank sensor and coil pack. You can hear the fuel pump as soon as you turn the key on. What's up ?
  • So how do you know its getting gas? Can it fill a quart jar in less than 30sec? How bout checking compression?

    Check your air filter... IAC might have a problem, can you pull the plugs and they are wet?
  • can you pull the plugs and they are wet? Dry
    How bout checking compression? I put my finger in the plug hole and turned it over (it blows my finger out pretty good) :o)
    Can it fill a quart jar in less than 30sec? Pressure release valve (fu le)under the hood you open it and gas comes out, it real good
  • When this first started... The truck would just die. You would let it sit and try again it would start. Then it would just die.Let it sit. Then it would start. Then it died and has never started again ?
  • What size engine is this again? I tried to find it but couldnt...
  • Sorry 3.0 6 cyl. standerd
  • I have the same exact problem, and when it gets warm out it goes away, or when you had it started that day already it starts up fine. Mine is an '02 4.0. When I start it I just start it like a carbureator holding the gas pedal. But the engine still runs real strong even in this -5 degree weather. I suggest choke cleaner in the air intake. But I'm skeptical of doing this because I ruined a lawn mower that way before.

    -Adam
  • Try cycling the fuel pump twice before starting. If that helps, it could be that your fuel pump is losing pressure or your injectors need a good flushing.
  • skinymphskinymph Posts: 2
    Hey! So, I have a 2001 4x4 6cyl. 4liter Ford Ranger, and even when it's warm outside, I have trouble starting it. It starts and stalls two or three times before it gets going, and that's usually because I start giving it gas on the third time. Could it be the O2 sensors? I have no idea. Any thoughts? It seems to be getting worse.
  • hubbleshubbles Posts: 3
    I'm having what sounds like the exact same problem with my 2000 ranger (4.0L V6). Did you ever find a solution to this problem? (Starting, then sputtering and stalling out, particularly in cold weather)

    Thanks,
    Hubbles
  • mhilliermhillier Posts: 1
    Ok I got in the truck this morning to go to work -started the truck - the truck started but the starter did not stop trying to crank. I turned the key to the off position and the starter still ran... I attempted to pull the battery cable off but then it stopped. Did this twice before I gave up and used my wifes car to get to work. Very puzzled.... Where do I start.

    Thank you.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    -Bad starter.

    -Bad solonid. Aren't they separate on Fords? On the left inner fender?

    I don't know if Autozone, etc can check a solonid...
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