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Ford Ranger Starting Problems



  • Hi Guys, I've got a 98 Ranger standard cab pick up. I just bought it and I am experiencing a starting problem and I'm hoping one of you can help me find the solution. It's a 2.5 litre automatic transmission truck. It has plenty of battery and starts fine when the engine is cold. Once the engine has warmed up the truck won't start. I turn the key and the starter won't engage. The neutral safety switch is working fine. I tested the solenoid wire (on the starter) when it is able to start and when the ignition switch is in the start position, I get power and the engine starts. When the engine is warm, I don't get power to the solenoid wire when the key is in the start position. Also, when it won't start, I put the key in the run position and jump the solenoid wire to the starter wire and the starter engages and the engine starts. It has never failed to start when the enging is cold. Does anyone have an answer?
  • I have the '94 ranger. I still do not know what the problem is. I changed the fuel relay switch and the fuel filter. Somebody told me (who fixed the problem ) that it is the ignition. Like another response I have an incling that it is the re-set button.
  • My wheels are rusted and Iwould like to replace them, they are 14'' can Igo to 15'', it seems there are more choises in this size? :surprise:
  • Why is the distributor not turning?
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    what motor?..could be a shear pin that holds the drive gear at the bottom of the distributor--that would be your least expensive problem..ranging to a broken cam shaft,only turning a few of your valves-etc..or,could be a broken timing chain/gear/belt..but-odds are,something's F.U.B.A.R..
    (--fouled up beond all recognition)..pull the distrributor,and see if the gear in the motor moves..but then,you'll have to know how to drop a distributor in a motor..good luck!
  • I have a 97 for ranger splash, 4.0 liter. Soemtimes the truck will not start. If I disconnect the positive battery terminal for a second, and reconnect it, it fires right up. I have replaced the battery, tested the alternator, replaced the PCM power relay, the fuel pump relay, and I am still having this problem. It is independant of temperature and other coniditons. It happens when it has been sitting all weekend, or if I have been driving it from store to store, if it's cold outside, or roasting outside, raining or dry . . . any thoughts are GREATLY appreciated . . thanks :) :confuse: :sick:
  • I had a camry that had a cracked ignition coil, so the car would shut off when warm sometimes, or it wouldn't start once warmed up, cause the crack would expand, but once cooled off, it would start fine. maybe this is the problem?
  • Hello. I have a 2000 3.0L flex fuel that I recently replaced the heater core in. This required the dash to be removed. After putting the dash back together, the truck will not start. All lights/instruments/controls seem to work. When starting the interior lights dim to nothing. The engine cranks but never turns over. Once you stop attempting to crank, all lights etc come back on. Took the battery to the local parts store, had it tested, and it was bad. Purchased new battery, installed, and truck does the same thing. Noticed with new battery voltmeter (?) gauge on instrument panel shows low voltage. Connections on battery are good/clean. Before I start taking parts off to have them tested (alternator, starter) I was curious if these could even cause the problem. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    tis will sound really stupid,b ut-try getting a large hammer,and give it a good whack..sounds like the starter got stuck on a bad spot ,and if not already out,verry nearly there..i got mine to get me home by hitting it a good one..
    the heater core replacement probably doesn't have any thing to do with it,except timing..
    if that don't do it,change the starter
  • ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    I have a problem, my truck won’t run for more than a few seconds, there is no response from the throttle, it barley starts and then it doesn’t gain any rpm’s (then it does, but drops back to a very slow rpm then stops.) I changed the fuel pump and regulator but no difference. I’m hoping that someone can help me diagnose the problem
    1998 Ranger, 3.0 engine V-6
  • added information to the first listing, After I try to start for several times it catches and very slowly the rpms rise then it starts running like it should, so the problem is when I start when its cold and I live in southern california and it doesn't get that cold
  • My son has a 1989 ford ranger 4x4 4cyc., it will not turn over.My son figured out if you put some serious pressure on brake pedal it will turn over and start? I cant figure out what is causing this could someone please advise me where to start looking?
    Jakes Dad
    Gregg Azevedo
  • After driving 5 to 10 miles the engine will just quit and there is no spark but then after resting for an hour or 2 it will start and run. It always cranks over but has no spark. I have replaced the distributor module but after reading on the site I am wondering if it could be EEC relay? And what is that?
    Thank you your help! Really appreciate it.
  • abidosabidos Posts: 3
    I recently had problems with my 1995 Ranger XLT where it would stop running all at once even while driving. After finaly getting it started and had the check engine light checked and found that the Crank Position Sensor was faulty. After replacing the Crank Sensor the truck ran great until a few days ago when after starting the engine it stopped after about a minute and now i can't get it started again. Any ideas on what might be wrong? I've also tried to locate the Ignition Control Module with no luck in locating it. Any help on where this is located? Thanks
  • abidosabidos Posts: 3
    How can i tell when my question has been answered?
  • ViceroyViceroy Posts: 1
    I have a similar problem after driving my 1992 3.0 v6 ranger for more than 30 minutes and then It won't start up again (due to fuel pump not priming once key is turned). Sometimes the truck cuts off as I am driving (very scary). I finally ended up replacing the fuel pump relay fuse (a green relay box (one of 3) under the plain view hood fuse box on the passenger side). I bought 2 extra fuel relays and just switch them out whenever my car doesn't start, like today. I'm thinking this is due to a short in the electrical system/wiring which causes the fuel relay to overheat and cut off. I have ruled out the fuel pump itself as the issue since it worked by itself once I put separate 12v power to the pump wires and it primed/made noise on its own. I also replaced the fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, ignition control chip, and oxygen sensor, but to no avail. The battery, alternator, and inertia switch (at feet of passenger side) also checked out ok. I feel sorry for anyone who has this problem and hope this helps people not spend needless money replacing unnecessary components. I still haven't gotten to the bottom of this issue. Any suggestions would help, as I have sunk $400+ to remedy this and I'm about ready to roll my car down a cliff as a public service to my community.
  • rainnrainn Posts: 3
    I have a 1993 ford ranger 4.0 4x4 my problem is that the starter is staying engaged. When all of this first started is when I replaced my alternator and battery, then my charging light stayed on so then I replaced the alt fuse under the hood. The truck started up but then after a few starts the starter is staying engaged. I have replaced the starter the starter relay and ignition switch on the steering wheel I checked all the wires and they all look good and am still having the same problem. Does any one have any tips on what I need to do to get it working.
  • caluchcaluch Posts: 1
    i have the same problem,did you solve it by changing the fuel relay under the hood???????????????
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    sounds like plugged exhaust-the "banna in the tailpipe" thing ..but,unlike the movies,the way exaust systems get plugged in the real world is cheap gas,and people NEVER flooring the car,and clearing out the exhaust!!..floor it -till it shifts--it knows when to shift!..if it's plugged already,you may have to replace the catylitic converter..(if you do take off the old one-it's worth $100 bucks at the junk yard-for a big one,but don't just throw them away,or let the mecanic guy "keep it" for free!?!!..make him take SOMETHING off the bill!,or,take it with you-they are your parts-not his!)..
    --try beating the hell out of the converter..i knocked the clog loose on a minivan--big cloud of black dust came out of the tailpipe,and then it ran SWEET!!
    --if that gets it going,change the o2 sensor,put good-premium gas in it,then take it for a L O N G cruise kicking it down every now and again-once it's hot(operating temp),then,quit "babying" it..thicker oil,and most any car will last longer !!
  • babtssmithbabtssmith Posts: 1
    92 ford ranger won't start. last time it ran the starter stayed engaged and then it died and i jump started it and then it ran when i turned it off it died and wouldn't start back up. We changed the starter, sillinoid, ignition starter switch, key ignition switch and it still won't start. It isn't even turning over. I don't know what else to try. Please hep
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