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Caravan/Voyager Heating/Cooling Problems

2

Comments

  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    "Question: does this negate the "spring tensioner"/ belt tightening observation? "

    Ummm, I don't actually know, even though I've worked on many-many Chrysler minivans, I've never even seen one with a 3.0 liter engine. :blush:

    I'll ask around and if I come up with something, I'll post the results. ;)

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • ccdlpdccdlpd Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I have the same problem with my van. Have located the switch? If so, how do you go about jumping it?

    Thanks
    scott
  • jwp1775jwp1775 Posts: 6
    '97 GC Sport -- Runs perfectly unless the AC is on. Then I hear a growl that sounds like it is coming from the transmission. This more prominent from a standing start that at highway speeds. However, I can make it stop at any time by just turning off the compressor.

    Any ideas?
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    My bets:

    1) The growl isn't coming from your transmission.
    2) The growl is coming from your A/C compressor.

    Keep us posted.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • jwp1775jwp1775 Posts: 6
    Thanks.

    Seems logical. But then why does the growl not continue at highway speeds? The compressor is still engaged.... But I can't hear any growl.

    It is also not audible at idle.

    But upon acceleration, it is quite loud.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Why not on the freeway? Probably because of too much wind noise, and/or the RPMs are too low.
    Why not at idle? Probably because the RPMs are too low to cause the compressor to make the noise.

    FWIW, compressors get noisy as they age. The compressor in our 1998 DGC is starting to get a little loud as well, and that is causing me to consider a prophylactic replacement before it grenades. FWIW, when compressors go, they usually send lots of shrapnel around the cooling system, and that stuff is a pain to evacuate, and if it isn't done properly, then the debris can cause replacement compressors to grenade as well.
  • Shipo, I have a similar problem to the the GC's A/C and trans issue.

    2000 Chevy Impala, 3.8L 200 hp motor, runs well. When the A/C is on and the car sits idle for more than 30 seconds or so, the transmission will jump the next time I accelerate from a dead stop. I try to keep an eye on the temp gauge while this is happening. Typical GM temp gauge, low 140, high 260, the needle always stays one tick below the middle. Recently, however, when I notice the problem, the needle climbs to the middle tick or slightly above. This is when the jump is most noticeable. I'll slightly tap the gas (I'm trying not to gun it) and the car will rev up, but not go anywhere. Then first gear will engage at the raised RPM, causing the car to lurch. If the A/C is off, this happens significantly less unless it's a very hot day.

    I took it to a local mechanic who told me that the transmission was going bad and needed to be rebuilt, which on a FWD car is very expensive. He said something about the first gear not holding pressure and therefore not engaging properly. But I disagree with his analysis, seeing as it only happens when the engine runs hotter than normal. When the engine is cold, I can slam the gas pedal and it will take off without a hitch.

    I considered taking the car to another mechanic and having them flush both the trans fluid and the coolant and see if that improves anything. But then I ran across your advice about the compressor sending shrapnel through the cooling system on this feed. When I turn on the A/C in the car, there's a slight clunk as the compressor kicks on, and then a whirring/buzzing noise when I rev the engine. Also the engine seems to work twice as hard. Do you think the compressor is going bad? Or does it sound like an old coolant/trans fluid problem? The car has 74,000 miles on it; neither fluids have been replaced while I've owned it (since 38k mi). I was under the impression that both flushes could wait till at least 100k mi. I don't want to spend any more money than I have to, and if the compressor is no good, a fluid flush won't help that situation. What do you recommend?
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Problems like this are hard to diagnose over the internet, however, it doesn't sound like your A/C system is the issue on your Impala. I'm more inclined to suspect your transmission and the ATF in it. I'm not so sure that I'd jump to the conclusion that your transmission needs to be rebuilt, but if it is acting up, a good first place to start is a simple pan drop, filter replacement and a top-off of fluid.

    FWIW, transmission "flushes" can cause waaaay more problems than they solve, and I would NEVER allow any automatic transmission I own to be subjected to a flush.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • Stumbled across these car forums a few months ago and found them quite useful for a female who had a dad who worked with cars for a living, and refuses to have the "shop guys" stick it to her. However, I haven't been able to find a solution to an ongoing problem that I am having, and would love any assistance you can offer.

    I have a 1998 Dodge Caravan, SE that overheats when stopped in traffic or running idle for any extended periods of time. I had it at the shop and they said they believe it is the computer. They said everything they tested worked, wires, relay I believe, but the fans would not kick on.

    Also, I had previously fixed a 'flashing lights' issue I was having on my climate control, but that too has defaulted again to being a problem. The same solution no longer fixes it this time, and when I hold the two top and bottom, left most button to recalibrate the system (the solution that once worked), the top left one flashes once, and then the middle one seems to be counting out a code of 24569 and then repeats itself. We also have no heat in the winter, or AC in the summer. I'm also pretty sure the only vent the air blows out of is the defrost button on the dash. Any ideas on what this could be and how I can fix it without getting a new computer?
  • Hi all,

    I own a 1998 Caravan (aka "The Thunderwagon") with 310,000 kms on it, and it seems to have developed an appetite for coolant. I don't ever see fluid under the vehicle, but after a long drive there is an odor of coolant around the engine.

    In the last month or so, the amount of coolant has risen significantly, and I am topping up with water almost every time I take it out. It seems like it only leaks when the thermostat is open?

    If it was leaking into the crankcase at this rate there would be more water than oil there and this is not the case.

    Any low $ suggestions? This is now an intermittently used second vehicle that sees less than 5000 km/year

    The engine is on its third set of heads after repeated lifter failures.I'd like to nurse this vehicle through one more winter, and then send it to that great Autobahn in the sky.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Which engine (3.0, 3.3, 3.8)?
  • Thanks for the speedy response! It has the 3.0L engine.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Ahhh, I figured as much given your comment about replacing the heads. Unfortunately I have no hands-on experience with that motor, hopefully someone else will chime in here.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • where can i locate the radiator fan relay on my 1999 plymouth voyager?
  • patti10patti10 Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Plymouth Voyager...3.3....Yesterday the fan wouldn't kick off....put a new sensor on it and the fan kicked off.....Today the temp went up on it and the fan will not kick on.....Anyone have any ideas?
  • my blower motor would only work on high speed then 2days ago it stopped working after reading through the fourm i replaced the resistor but still have on fan help please it getting cold up here in canada oh sorry it is a 1997 dodge caravan 3.3 engine
  • Hi, I'm hoping someone can help me. I have a 98 Voyager. The fan motor started to make some noise a couple of months ago. Then it stopped. I would hit the dash above the radio and it would start working. Now it has stopped all together. Hitting the dash had always worked. The fan motor is quite aways away from where I would hit the dash, so I'm not sure that is the problem. The control head had been replaced probably 4 years ago or so. That little piece is not cheap! Any help would be appreciated.

    Tom Hall
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,582
    If it started making noise prior to failure, I would suspect it is the motor itself, but you would have to test the lines to verify that.
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • My 2001 Chrysler Town & Country has a problem with rusty metal coolant lines that are the supply and return for the rear auxilary heater. Is it okay to cut out the rusty section of metal lines and connect it with a good quality rubber hose and clamp?

    Thanks,

    Steve
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    On a number of Chrysler minivan boards, that is one of the more popular repair methods for the rusty rear coolant lines. The only thing that stopped me from doing it to our 1998 was that I ended up trading it in at 170,000 miles.

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,582
    Your '98 had a rear auxiliary heater? Were those standard or optional? I don't think mine has one.....
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Yeah, we ordered the rear heat and A/C as an option on our 1998 DGC Sport (we also ordered the "unofficially available" 3.8 liter engine as well). That said, I don't know if the rear unit was an option on the Short Wheel Base (SWB) and base model LWB vans.

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,582
    Thanks for the info, Shipo! I imagine that van must get toasty (or cool) real quick with the added heating/cooling system. Mine (w/o the aux) is the first vehicle I have had here in Fairbanks where it can actually heat up enough at -50F that I find it necessary to turn down the fan speed so I do not overheat. With anything else, I am happy if the vehicle's interior breaks freezing! :D
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Yeah, the coldest weather I ever drove our 1998 in was -20, and even then I had the HVAC settings at only the half way mark to keep it warm enough to drive in my shirt-sleeves. ;-)

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,582
    :D

    You know as well as anyone that I was quite doubtful of the decision I made to buy this van back in May of '07. But now, after 20 months and 23,000 miles of trouble-free driving (aside from the occasionally recurrent dash black-out issue), I am quite happy with the van. It really has exceeded my expectations. Now I hope that with continued care and maintenance, it will take me down the road another three years.
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • timba43timba43 Posts: 1
    Yesterday I turned on my AC and it was working fine in the front but there was hot air coming from somewhere. My son then complained that it was to hot. I could not figure out why, the front was blowing cool air and I could hear the back blowing away. Then realized that the hot air was coming from the lower vents in the back. It was blowing hot air. It is like the back vents are stuck in heater mode, I can not get them to blow from the top vents. Any ideas on what this could be?
  • pvvoyagerpvvoyager Posts: 1
    I have a 99 voyager and was told that there was an a/c filter that could be accessed from inside the cabin of the van. There is no mention of it in the owners manual, can anyone tell me where it is located or if there is a downloadable diagram how to access it :confuse: ? thanx
  • mauriciogmauriciog Posts: 1
    It happens to me. with my voyager 1998, I had to replace the fan relay twice in four years. and the problem was solved.
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