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Chevy Blazer Starting and Stalling Problems

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Comments

  • kingusa95kingusa95 Posts: 2
    thanks for the info. where is the pressure regulator? is it easy to change?
  • yruffinyruffin Posts: 2
    About a year ago I noticed a problem with my 97 chevy blazer. The check gages light was coming on every now and then and sometimes it would cut off while I was at a light or stop sign. Then one day after I had driven the car all day, I came home and parked for about an hour. When I went to start the car it acted as if it wanted to start but did'nt. Six months prior to this I had gotten a new fuel pump, radiator, battery, and the spider and fuel valves changed. The fuel pump was from auto zone. The vechile has been sitting up for maybe a year and a half and I miss my truck. I did not have the money to get it fixed being that five to six months prior to the break down I had spent around $1,000.00 to get those things that I mentioned fixed. Can someone please help me try to figure out what is wrong? Any suggestions would help. I miss my truck!
  • I would try the crank positioning sensor.
  • yruffinyruffin Posts: 2
    Where is it located and about how much does it cost for the sensor?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    The crank sensor is at 7 o'clock position when looking at the crankshaft pulley. It has two wires going to it, and takes about 5 minutes to change. That's the good news.

    The bad news is that it costs 60-70 bucks! I have seen CPS failure occur two different ways. One is just driving along and boom, engine dies. If you try and restart, no-worky, but if you turn the key to off, wait a few seconds, then try to start the car it will fire right up. The other failure mode I have seen is an engine shutdown at high RPM, and coming back online when the speed slows down, sort of like hitting a governor. The intermittent failure may or may not set a code. The high RPM failure will only set a code if it occurs three times within an operating cycle. That means you start the car and get it to occur three times before turning the car off.

    I would suggest getting someone with a code reader to check for stored codes. You can spend a lot of money on sensors before you hit the right one.
  • I have a 99 blazer that when I get to a stop and try and go it stalls, starts right up until I stop again. I have changed the fuel filter, sparkplugs and wires, did a diagnostic test and gas pressure, everything is fine. It has good get up and go, smooth drive until we stop and press the gas and it stalls. Any ideas? :confuse:
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    That is s symptom of a bad TCC (Torque Converter Clutch) solenoid.

    In plain English, the TCC solenoid locks up the torque converter in the transmission to give you better gas milage. The lock-up must occur when the engine is fully warmed up and at higher cruising speeds or stalling will occur. The TCC has a wiring connector in plain view and can be disconnected. The car can be driven with the TCC disconnected without causing any problems besides a little higher fuel consumption. Drive the car with the TCC disconected for a few days and if the stalling problem disappears, viola, the problem is located.
  • The engin seems to stall more when gas gauge reads 1/4 or less, but fuelpump was tested and it was good. Where is the TCC wiring located?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Does the engine pick up at all when you step on the throttle? A "bad spot" in the throttle position sensor, or the wires to it, can cause this. If the stall doesn't occur until the vehicle starts to move, and with 1/4 tank or less, I would wonder about the fuel pickup. Tested when sitting still, the pump would show correct pressure, but when you move, the gas will move in the tank and could cause a damaged/mis-positioned fuel pickup to suck air. If you can restart the car and drive away with no problem, that wouldn't seem to be the case.

    Get the computer scanned (Autozone is one that will check) and see if you have any codes. There are a couple of sensors that could cause this, but they should throw codes. Idle air control solenoid, TPS, CPS (intermittent).
  • I have a 2001 4.2l Chev Blazer bought in from Japan @12000ks[7.5mls] and have had bad bad problems with starting like it wants to start but hydraulics and splutters. It has cost me in excess of $3000 and a new starter motor in fixit charges and eventually found the sensor on crankshaft replaced seemed to cure it. Some months later it refused to start again same symptoms..tow truck to GM agent and top thingy like a distributor replaced. Eventually diagnosed that the sensor on crankshaft MUST be set by GM dealer otherwise the problem will recure. At the same time get the factory transmission upgrade. Good luck. John in Greymouth New Zealand
  • have changed fuel pump thinking that was the problem but found out that i have no spark. checked into it a little more and have no juice going to 5 fuses in the fuse box. checked fusable links (5 of them on drivers side and one at battery) and are good. could this be ignition switch or computer?
  • :sick: hey guys,
    I have a 00 Blazer again with the 4.3L w/ 125k mi. Been having problems with starting it. Seems like its not getting fuel. I shoot a little cleaner into the throttle body in order to get it to start but that dosen't always work. I've checked the fuel pressure at the rail and its sitting at 65 with the key on. Its slowely geting worse as the days go on. I talked to a mechanic and he said it might be the spider injector or the regulator. I do a lot of my own work but never got into the engine itself. Anyone had this problem before and know how to fix it? The mechanic told me if its the injectors it'll run about $450. Is this something I can do in my driveway? and what it would cost? :sick: :lemon:
  • I have had that problem with my 98 jimmy and it was the fuel pressure regulator, If I were you I would do the whole assembly. The job is nothing at all. basic tools. Look on this site to find instructions, it is easy trust me.
  • any idea what the parts cost?
  • My blazer died and won't restart. I've tested fuel,it's ok. I've replaced the coil,dist.cap and rotor button,and the shaft sensor; now all it is doing is blowing the ECM fuse every time I turn the switch on. Please help!
  • i have a 2002 chevy blazer 4wd. i start it up it fires and dies. the problem is intermittent. it happens every 2 weeks or so and after several attempts it will be fine and drive.
  • dp2226dp2226 Posts: 28
    This could be a real stretch but I had a similar problem where I had trouble getting the truck to start every few days where I had to turn the key a couple times, then would stutter when first going, a couple times just stalled out. Drove myself nuts with hoses, fuel pressure etc.

    Had a rusted battery terminal screw. It was being shaken when driving, caused the battery not to charge properly when driving. An easy test is to jiggle each wire separately(obviously do not create a connection with yourself and the car). You will hear the power go on and off.

    Again probably not it but was listed as one of the first things to check and I ignored it because had one of those duralast batteries
  • chad21chad21 Posts: 2
    Hey guys, my blazer died and wont restart. I smell gas after 2 turn-overs,but cant find any spark from the coil. also every time I turn the switch, my ECM/Batt fuse blows. Any ideas?
  • I think it might be the crank position sensor which is located on the front of the engine near the harmonic balancer and main pully. Try this first, its cheap! 20 dolars if that. if that will not work then its the ecm, it being bad will send mixed signals. But i would try the crank position sensor first.
  • I need to keep this truck running but every time it gets hot, it stalls out. Unless you have your foot on the gas and the idle high, it will stall out every time. Does not
    do it when its cold . I have had a new motor put in , rebuilt carb (for high altitude)
    new fuel pump and water pump. Truck should run great......does for about 10 minutes and then it stalls. Any suggestions
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    New coil? You are describing a very typical coil failure, and I doubt the new engine came with one.
  • Yes sir, we put new coil, plugs, wires, I am wondering about the EFE relay switch, mounting on the firewall, it was buzzing ??? so I ordered another switch, when it comes in I will install it. Thanks
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Relays can fail in a number of ways. Check the voltage going to the coil of the relay. If it is below the rated voltage (typically 12VDC on a car) the coil cannot fully engage the relay contacts and you will get the buzzing you describe. Usually the coil just fails, but I have seen cases where some of the windings will short and also cause the "buzzing" sound.
  • I will check that once the switch gets here. Thanks and I will let you know !
  • I have a 1992 chevy pickup with a 4.3 v6. When i crank it i have to throttle the gas to keep it running. If i unplug the map sensor it will run at a high idle. I have tested the map sensor and it tests fine, i have even replaced it but that didn't work. I have replaced the ECM, IAC,TPS,EGR valve, fuel filter. I have cleaned the throttle body. I have checked the vacuum lines, distributor, wires and plugs. The vacuum selinoid works fine and the spark control module works fine.I had a diagnostic tool run on it but no codes. I have ohmed out the wiring and found no breaks. Can anyone give me some ideas on what this problem can be? Please help!!!
  • I have a 95 chevy blazer automatic with a 4.3 vortex. When I drive it the RPMs jump around and then it stalls out if I hit the brakes. Does anyone have any Ideas of what may be wrong?
  • I HAD A SIMILAR PROBLEM AS TO WHERE MY 4.3 WOULD IDLE HIGH THEN DROP TO ALMOST STALLING IT WAS MY THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR JUST A CHANCE .
  • I JUST CHANGED MY FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR TODAY IT IS MOUNTED ON THE BACK OF THE SPIDER JET , THE SPIDER JET IS UNDER THE PLENUM INTAKE WHICH IS MOUNTED ON TOP OF THE THE ALUMINUM INTAKE ITS A FAIRLY EASY JOB JUST REMEMBER THE PLENUM INTAKE IS PLASTIC WHEN YOU START TO TIGHTEN YOUR BOLTS BACK DOWN IF YOU NEED ANY HELP FEEL FREE TO ASK ME I JUST DID THIS JOB TODAY IT IS TIME CONSUMING DUE TO ALOT OF THINGS TO REMOVE ,JUST TAKE YOUR TIME , BE SURE TO GET YOUR PLENUM GASKET SET BEFORE HAND AND WHILE WORKING ON REPLACING FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR COVER YOUR INTAKE PORTS WITH RAGS SO NOT TO DROP ANY -PARTS INTO THE CHAMBERS
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
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  • Our 97 Blazer has an intermittent starting problem. The car has a new fuel pump (60PSI) and filter, good plugs, wires and spark when the problem occurs. I have pulled the plugs and found them wet and you can smell fuel when the problem occurs. When the car sits for longer than day and especially when its wet, it won't start. It has spark and fuel it seems as if the timing maybe off and not firing at the proper time. There never has been any back fire to indicate bad timing, it doesn't even try to fire. I have cleaned the plugs when they are wet and put them back in and still no start. The last time this happened I tried cranking for long periods and short periods. In doing so I found that if I did not turn the key all the way to off it would hit on the next attempt. Doing this (going from start to run and back to start) the car did finally start, but the engine raced at about 2500 rpm. I shut it off and started it again a few times and it finally came back to a normal idle. Anyone ever have this type of problem and knows where to look?
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