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Chevy Blazer Starting and Stalling Problems

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  • hoss350hoss350 Posts: 1
    i got a 1998 blazer,when i first start it up it hesitates for a couple of minutes ,,,i have no power then in a few minutes it runs fine.even if it runs a couple hours.and i start it up it still does it.
  • If I remember correctly the 305 in your Blazer is not the stock engine but is from the 1980's. That said it sounds like a carb problem or specifically the electric choke. Depending on the year many of those carbs can't be torn down and rebuilt unless you are willing to do some drilling and tapping. The adjustment screws are often NOT adjustable (thus the drilling and tapping) which makes it a real pain to do anything with the carb.
    When you restart the engine what does the exhaust look and smell like? Is it dark and smelling of fuel? If so that makes me think your choke isn't working properly. Without a carb in front of me I can't remember for sure but I THINK the choke can be replaced. Myself I would look at replacing the entire carb with one that can be adjusted.
  • My 1998 Chevy Blazer has the habit of losing power and sometimes stalling while driving down the road. It is especially bad on hills but does do it on flat roads. It feels like it is loading up when the problem occurs. The engine has 128,000 on it and other than this issue it runs great.
    I am going to replace the fuel filter this evening but would like input from anyone else who has had this problem.

    Thank you
    Mike
  • CAN ANYONE GIVE ME SOME IDEAS? I HAVE 95 GMC JIMMY IT STARTED NOT WANTING TO START BUT IT WOULD AFTER A WHILE . THE PAST MTH IT'S GOT REALLY BAD. MOST OF THE TIME IT DOSENT WANT TO START AT ALL EVEN WITH STARTING FLUID. ALREADY DID THE PLUGS AND WIRE,FUEL FILTER AND THE FUEL PUMP AND Ahhhh THE ROUGHER, NOT SURE IF I SPELLED THAT RIGHT.THE TRUCK ACTS LIKE IT ISNT GETTING GAS AND I CANT FIGURE IT OUT. WHEN IT DOES START IT RUNS GREAT UNTIL I TURN IT OFF I CANT START IT BACK UP MAYBE SOME THING WITH THE TEMP? I HAD IT SCANNED AND IT CAME BACK WITH THE IGNITION CONTROL MODULE WHICH I DID REPLACE AND IT STILL DIDNT START AND THE OTHER IS A EVAP VACUM SWITCH CIRCUIT I'M NOT SURE WHAT THAT IS YET I HAVE TO LOOK IT UP.COULD IT BE VAPOR LOCK? DOES ANY ONE HAVE A CULE PLEASE HELP THANKS SO MUCH!!
  • jtemplinjtemplin Posts: 2
    If you think you're having fuel related problems, check fuel pressure, fuel level in tank, change you're filters and injectors. There may be an in-line fuse that controls ignition, don't count this out. I hope this helps.
  • 00mickx00mickx Posts: 3
    Say, did you ever figure out what was causing it??? Mine is driving me nuts - or should I say - financially in ruin as I can't make it to work - let alone in town to get more parts. I've replaced plugs, cap, rotor, coil, ignition module, MAP, cam sensor module, fuel pump, and all filters. It will run all night long and fine in cool weather, but when the sun beats down and the weather gets things hot under the hood, it stalls and won't re start until it cools down. I suspect the crank sensor or MAF - but I'm out of money - HLP!!!!
  • 00mickx00mickx Posts: 3
    Ya, I agree the A-holes who design these things should have to work on them!!! As far as changing the plugs - you have to pull off the front wheels and access them through the rubber flaps in the wheel wells. There is only one plug accessible from up top and that is the #1 cylinder. Oh what a joy!!!
  • shaner63shaner63 Posts: 3
    My 98 blazer wouldn't want to start when it rained. I changed rotor, cap n wires. and for a while it was fine. Now, it sometimes wont start regardless of wetness or dry, It also will lose power and die while driving, sometimes start right up, sometimes not. I was checking for juice at various points, and noticed that the plug-in to the coil (white/pink) had juice at the pink, but none at white. I believe its supposed to have continuous juice at pink w/ key on, and on/off at white while cranking. Correct? So no intermittant at white while cranking, whats this mean?
  • bigcampbigcamp Posts: 1
    If I let my blazer sit for more than 6 hrs it struggles to start but anytime befor that it starts first crank . Fuel pump operates normal but seems as if it sits for long periods it loses prime , if i go start it after 4 hrs its finewhat is the issue ? fuel regulator? where is it located ?
  • My 2001 Chevy blazer has had a stalling/shut off problem for a while now. As long as the gas tank is full, I can run the A/C. at 3/4 tank it starts to stall and shut off while I'm driving, I can crank it but I usually can go more than a mile even with no A/C. at 1/2 tank or below the car rarely goes further than 15 to 20 miles and shuts off, no A/C running and the gas needle fluctuates from empty to 3/4 tank and I have to mentally know how much gas is in the tank. Lately I have tried to keep the tank neer full but this is aggravating. I changed the fuel filter about a year ago but that didn't help. I am trapped in a 20 mile radius from my house.
  • Little help?? As stated above, I got no spark at my white/black wire that plugs into the coil. I had removed the ignition module, got it tested, and it tested bad. I got a new one, installed it, and still no spark at that white/black wire. From what I've read, I believe that white wire should pulse while cranking. What else would keep it from doing so? I have a check eng light on, but cant drive it to get codes pulled. Anyone? I'm desperate.
  • it all started about a week ago, i started having problems with the car stalling. it acts as if it is running out of gas. it happens at any time, mostly during the day. i have changed the fuel filter thinking that was the problem, but it wasn't. changed the plugs and wires when i got it 4 months ago. i checked the plugs to see if they were still sparking, and they were covered with carbon. so i changed them agen the other day. it ran good the hole day , then yesterday i drove half a mile down the road and it stalles agen. no codes. i can't figure out what the problem is.plz help, this truck is getting on my last nerve.
  • I have a 92 Gmc Jimmy 4.3 V-tech, and i can't get it running. I have replaced the battery, starter, fuel pump & filter, also new spark plugs and wires. It starts up but will not turn over. It will turn if I spray stater flid in the intake but stop when I stop spraying. I have a feeling it is the Fuel pressure regulator, but im not sure where it is, or if i will mess up the injectors by replacing it. Any Ideas?
  • I just bought a 00 blazer the guy told me nothing was wrong with it, but it sputters, will only start up with fully charged battery, he said it had been sitting for a yr and when it does start up it has slow throttle response. could this be fuel filter problem? thats what i am thinking probley bad gas or something but also i dont want to get into buying a MAF whereas they are so expensive i found one online for 181.00 which is a smokein deal. I just hope its not a MAF. Best case is for me hopefully is fuel filter. any clues anyone could give me?
  • truck quit running. fuel pump quit,bought a new one same thing,bought another
    and the fuel pump does not run. found out the first pump runs if directly connected to battery. ran hot wire from battery to pump to run. i get fuel to the injectors. will start but then dies. will not stay running. we will be changing the fuel pressure regulator. help.
  • I need help badly!! Problem started when car wouldn't start. Had it towed to mechanic who replaced the fuel pump. Got it back and drove ok and but it was making a noise when it started. Mechanic said it was a problem with the flywheel and that was a separate problem. Then car started being hard to start, and would cut off after only a few blocks, so back to shop [took it to a different shop]. Was told it was the fuel regulator, which they replaced. Drove it home and to work the next day. On the way back, it cut off after a few blocks. They towed it back to the shop, then they said it needed a "major" tuneup. They did this and said they replaced something to do with a "spider". Drove it home and parked it for a few days. Still doing the same thing. Got it back to the shop, where they said they replaced the distributer, where they say it starts but won't stay on. They have had the car now for some time, and don't really seem to know what the problem is. I haven't paid for anything else after the tune up. Don't want to keep throwing money away on guessing games. Does anyone have any idea what could be the real problem?
  • my blazer was running fine then went out to start it and wont run. the fuel pump was not coming on so i bought a new 1 and installed. still having the same problem. the relay seems to be clicking so i think its good checked all the fuses and all seem to be fine. i need some suggestions please. im pulling what little bit of hair i have out trying to figure out problem
  • I'm having the same types of problems. Did you ever figure this out?
  • no still having the same problem. I just dropped it off to a friend who owns a shop. I hope he can find out the problem. i will keep you posted
  • sorry i thought you were talking about my other post.
  • JnavarreteJnavarrete Posts: 4
    edited November 2010
    I had this problem before and changed the old battery for a new one last year, but the problem re-surfaced now that we are reaching the constant below -5 Celsius. So, the problem is as follow.

    I having problem to start the car, but the rare thing is that only happens when I'm using the key to start the car, it always start without a problem with the remote starter. For instance today while leaving home I notice that it was snowing a bit so I remote started the car so it'll warm up a bit, I got in the car, disconnect the remote starter and tried the key, it gave me problem, it was like it was about to start but it didn't. I remote started the car again, wait like a minute and then tried the key again and it started this time. I have asked the car to be checked twice last year for the same problem but always I was told that everything was ok, starter, battery and so on.

    Is there anything that it's by-passed when you remote start the car but is essential to start the car with the key?

    Thanks
  • tar99tar99 Posts: 7
    I'm having a similar problem with my 97. THe fuel pump solution is pushed by the local mechanic, however, I'm thinking he's got his pocketbook more in mind than my truck.

    The fuel pump sends the fuel down the line @ 60 psi, but then the pressure slacks off immediately following. I have to crank for about 6-7 seconds to start. However, if it has a full tank, and I turn the key all the way to start immediately there is wait and it catches right away.

    My thought is there is a minute hole in the line somewhere that is causing the unit to lose prime.

    does this sound reasonable? The fellow I spoke with wants $1000 to replace the fuel pump (this is in Canada) and I'm not too keen on that. I don't think it will solve the problem as indicated in some of these earlier posts.

    What do you guys think?
  • seems the problem with my blazer was wireing! the underneath is pretty rusty so all off my grounds were deteriorating! i also had some wireing burn up in the glovebox behind the three relays. my mechanic has about 20 hours in troubleshooting and fixing and said it is a pain in the [non-permissible content removed]! hopefully this helps u a little and good luck
  • tar99tar99 Posts: 7
    The engineers at work (on board a ship) think it may have to do with the fuel pressure regulator, or one of the sensors.

    The electrical on this truck is pretty good, but I'm slowly eliminating things with the multimeter.

    20 hours trouble shooting?
  • i have a 1998 blazer that will run for a few minutes sitting in the driveway but will stall out after a few minutes. But if you drive it around the block it will stay running occasionally you can drive it a for a few miles then it will stall and not start for a couple hours. anyone have any idea what it could be.
  • Mike,

    Did you ever get this solved? Mines doing the EXACT same thing...

    Thanks,

    Brian
  • tlmarttlmart Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Chevy blazer that did the same thing. It was the coil and not expensive and easy to install. Also check the wires to your battery, they get caught under battery and cuts in half, that too happened to my blazer. Hope this helps.
  • cl02062010cl02062010 Posts: 1
    edited January 2011
    for the love of christ people, if your check engine light is blinking, park your vehicle and call a tow truck. when the check engine light comes on steady, it means there is something wrong that is emissions related (malfunction of or detected by one or more of any of the sensors on the engine, intake, evap system, or exhaust). when the check engine light comes on blinking, it means your vehicle is going into melt down and needs to be shut off and left shut off until filxed.

    now for your issue, if you have the 4.3 liter vortec cpi, there is a big problem with the fuel pressure regulator leaking into bank 1 in the intake manifold causing all of bank 1 (the driver's side 3 cylinders) to randomly misfire. it will foul your o2 sensor and cause severe damage to your catalytic converter which can ultimately cause severe damage to your engine (excessive back pressure). i had one of these blazers in high school and every other year we had to replace the cat and bank 1 sensor 1 o2 sensor and we couldn't figure out why til i started taring apart the intake and found a puddle of gasoline in the bank 1 side of he manifold (these things have a two piece intake manifold). i later found out when i started working in a shop that there is a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) on the fuel pressure regulator that describes the symptoms that i experienced and furthermore some of the symptoms that you listed that you are having difficulties with. hope that helps. good luck.
  • punshkapunshka Posts: 20
    I'm not sure if you've already fixed this problem, but we wanted to through this out there at you anyways. Check your EGR valve, that maybe your problem. Let me know.
  • punshkapunshka Posts: 20
    We checked to make sure that it was tight and it is. As of right now, my engine is some what knocking, which it sounds like its coming from the top end. We can drive the truck for a couple of miles, then it starts jumping and just cuts off. Is the harmonic balancer supposed to move at all? Right now, ours can move just a hair. With a crank sensor, having a bad main bearing, would this cause the truck to do what it's doing? Thanks for your reply to the previous statements.
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