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Chevy Blazer Starting and Stalling Problems



  • We changed the MAP sensor, the engine came with the distributor, changed the rotor, plugs, wires. we had it checked and it was giving off 2 codes, thats when we changed the fuel pump. someone told me it could be the computer? they said it should only give off one code? Its not the ignition coil either we tried replacing that. Im going nuts. I guess we will have to get a scan tool and see if it reads anymore codes, thanks.
  • Hello everyone, I'm new to this world of online help. After years of working on cars and being out of the business I am finally stumped. I have a 1999 Chevy Blazer 4.3 Vortec with 189,172 miles on it and still running strong.....well when i can get it started. In the past as of three years ago replaced the fuel pump and filter. Both are fine and working. I have a fuel pressure at switch turn of 60 psi. and a running pressure of 54 psi. Both from what I understand as in with in range. Next I do have a good battery. Here's how the problem goes. When I go to start my truck it will try to turn over and sounds as it should, it just doesnt fire as it isnt getting fuel or the battery is weak. Now when you either a) give it a little shot of ether or you b) hook jumper cables it will fire right up. I'm kind of at my ends wit with this issue. Anyone have any good ideas as to where I can look to solve this issue. And please note this starting issue is only occuring when I start the vehicle for the first time of the day. Also when the weather is warmer out above 50 degrees it seems to start right up. Thanks for the help and input! :confuse:
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Oh, no, you can have several codes stored. To test out an ECM, I pulled the connector to the MAP, MAF, EGR, and TPS then checked to see if all the codes were caught, and they were. Find out all the codes that are set and see what you get.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Check the ground at the block, check the battery cables to be sure they aren't acid eaten up under the insulation. It sounds like you have a low voltage condition. Ether makes it fire off with less spark, and jumping bumps the current up and will help overcome the voltage drop across a weak ground or power connection.

    Regarding the battery, check the voltage while cranking. I have come across a lot of new batteries lately that have problems, most of them from Autozone. Not a slam against Autozone in particular, but whoever is making their batteries is having problems.
  • thanks for the help, i will consider those issues. Also I may have forgotten to mention the fact my SES light is on and throws out the code PO453 which I believe deals with the EVAP system and its reading high. I'm going to consider with the problems i've been having that maybe it might be a bad fuel vapor pressure switch on the fuel pump. And its been a while since i've done one of those but it does just simply thread into the pump where the old one simply threads out. Just one other direction and item I forgot to mention, again, great forum and great help! :confuse:
  • heres the deal with my 2000 blazer...230,000+ miles...when the outside air temp gets above 70 degrees...truck wont run...starts and idles, but any pressure on the throttle will cause it to die, sputter, backfire...etc...can feather the throttle to get the rpms up...but as soon as i let off the gas and attempt to give it more...same result...can even idle down the road at about 30 mph with very tricky throttle play...has new fuel pump and filter, coil pack, ignition module( inside the dist cap) and well as various other new parts...and again this only happens when the air temp gets above 70...this started last fall...but with cold temp over the winter...has been ok...well spring is here...and had a prob a week came the new fuel pump(the third one this truck has had in the two years ive had it ) and now that im broke down in FL where its finding out the pump wasnt the issue....any help would be greatly appreciated...thanks :)
  • My 2000 Blazer did the same thing.... after researching this for many, many days. This is what causes the problem.

    You need a new fuel injection spider, GM upgraded the one that is in your 1999 blazer, to a new spider that has MFI Injectors. It is a direct replacement. All you do is change the whole injector spider as a unit, it has the six new redesigned injectors.
    The injector unit that is in your truck now was a bad design, and GM knows that now. They always stick, and quit working after about 150,000 miles.
    The new replacement part fixes all issues with this.

    Google " GM Part # 12568332 " and you can read all about this.

    GM part #

    12568332 - MFI Assembly

    17113215 - Seal kit

    $300 - $400 from the GM dealer.

    Less than $200 from

    Read the install notes at this link.

    My truck runs like new.

  • It sounds like the Throttle Position Sensor. This is a part on the drivers side of the throttle body.

    Or the map sensor. (Manifold Absolute Pressure)
  • grfenngrfenn Posts: 1
    My son had a bearing go bad on his 1997 blazer last August and we bough a rebuilt engine. Got it installed and running just after Christmas. It keeps having starters go out. We bought a reman starter from AutoZone and are on the 6th warranty replacement. At least 2 had solenoid/bendix problems where the motor would spin but not "kick" the bendix. The last one we shimmed thinking perhaps we were binding somehow. Lasted about a week before before it quit- this time it seemed to be a chewed up bendix,but when we pulled it out,what we had was a the "snout" of the starter had fractured off so starter shaft wasn't supported. Flywheel still seems to be OK (no missing teeth, seems to be "true"). The only thing I can think of is something not properly lined up, but what? Trans seems to be properly bolted to engine block. No real adjustment to starter install other than shims. Any ideas?
  • My 97 Chevy Blazer has a starting issue. If I start the car for the first time of the day it will start fine. After I park it, if I try to start it again within an hour of shutting it off, it just cranks and cranks and cranks. If it cools off and you try to start it, it fires rght up. Can anyone help me with this issue? All Ive done is replaced the fuel pump, and the ignition wires. I replaced the entire ignition system about 3 years ago.
  • igmaamigmaam Posts: 4
    Had the same thing on a '92. It would start when cool, but just crank painfully when hot. Got so I was afraid to drive it more than a couple miles between errands. If we let it cool down for a while or if we jump-started, it would fire up fine. Thought the battery was good and so looked at a lot of other things, but upon recheck discovered the battery was actually dying. Replaced it and the old girl hasn't had a problem since. Knock on wood.
  • Sounds to me like the fuel pressure regulator, try to push the gas pedal all the way down while cranking mine did the same thing.
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    The problem could be the battery, starter solenoid or the starter or it could be all of them. If the battery and the connections are known to be good, the starter or the starter solenoid may be suffering from "heat soak" since the engine starts when cool but does not start when the engine is hot. Heat soak is an indication of a bad starter and/or starter solenoid. That is because the contacts and windings in those items have higher resistance when the battery is hot and a weak battery cannot overcome the resistance. A new battery will sometimes start a engine even if it has a bad starter or solenoid by overcoming the higher resistance in the heat soak condition.

    It is not wise to go the cheap route and just replace the solenoid and neglect to replace the starter. They should be replaced as a unit because it is nearly the same amount of labor to replace either one and it is not a pleasant job, so you do not want to do it twice or pay for having it done twice. Never tell a auto repair shop what to replace. Always let the repair shop technician tell you what needs to be replaced.. Unscrouplous repair shops are just waiting for someone to tell them what to replace. Then they are off the hook if it does not fix the problem..

    When I was a junior in high school, I replaced a starter solenoid on my 1955 Studebaker Champion 6-cylinder when it failed to start engage the starter when we were on the beach at Galveston. It was easy on that vehicle and I did not even have to get under the car. It is impossible to replace the starter and solenoid without raising the car on a Blazer or any V6 or V8 for that matter. If I was still physically able, replacing the starter and solenoid on a S10 Blazer would be a 4 hour job for me.

    Starters and starter solenoids wear out slowly over a period of time similar to shock absorbers. You do not know how bad they were until you replace them.
  • fixit8fixit8 Posts: 1
    I had this same problem with my 2001 Blazer. i had to leave it at work overnight.i had it towed to a machanic the next day he put the key in and it started right up. he couldn't fine a problem. it started up fine for about 3 weeks,then same thing i did some research and this is what i found out.GM has serveral security systems.on the 2001 Blazer it is the pass key version so if your key becomes worn the system does.nt recognize your key the same cane happen with key that are not from the dealer. the good news is there is a easy fix. you have to reset the system, her's how(put the key in the ignition turn it to the start position the truck want start release it to the on position leave it in that position for 10 min.then turn the key to the off position wait 5 sec. then do this 2 more times. after the third time the next time you insert the key the system will recognize the key and start. it worked for me . Try IT..... cost 30 min. of time
  • lpzlpz Posts: 3
    2002 Blazer intermittantly will stall right after starting. I have to hold the accelerator for about 10 minutes until it idles normally (500 - 600 rpm) to go. Most times it starts and runs just fine. I never can tell when or where this stall problem will occur. It could be the first start of the day or it could happen after the 2nd, 3rd or 4th stop/start - I don't know when it will happen. All diagnostic codes of the computer come back normal and it doesn't happen while the service man has it.
  • dselfdself Posts: 1
    I have an 87 blazer with a 350. Wouldnt start yesterday, poured some fuel in the throttle body and it did and then died, is it the fuel pump in the tank or the injection system and is there a test to eliminate on or the other?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Turn the key to "on" without going to the start position. You should hear a buzzing sound from the fuel tank as the fuel pump primes up. If you don't, turn the key off, and kick the bottom of the fuel tank two or three times and try starting again. Don't laugh, this is a well established "emergency recovery" for a dying fuel pump. If you do hear the buzz as the pump primes, check your fuel filter, and check for fuel pressure at the throttle body.

    I am betting on a dying fuel pump.
  • zcarpzcarp Posts: 1
    Have a 2001 4.3 chevy blazer. have replaced spark plugs, fuel filter, air filter, egr valve. engine runs fine gets satisfactory gas milage. My problem is the initial start. Engine rumbles upon on start-up. Like the whole engine shakes. Engine always starts and runs fine but the initial start is always rough. when you shut the engine off it does the same thing. Some times worse than other. Any suggestions why this is happening? More of an annoyance than anything.
  • marasmom25marasmom25 Posts: 1
    1990 full size blazer with a tbi 350 its stalling out only after it gets warm idles great then try to rev it up after its warm and it stalls out @ 1800 rpms even does so while driving but always hasnt thrown any codes good coil cap, rotor and wires can anyone help???
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Fuel filter?
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