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Chevy Blazer Starting and Stalling Problems

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  • i am having the same issue with it starting and i can drive it but when i stop it stalls but i can start it right up if i put my foot on the gas pedal just a little bit.. but i really have to gun it to keep it started. but when i drive it and stop or even slow down to turn a corner the dang thing just stops.. i have never had this much problems with a truck or even a car in my life.. my blazer is at 189,000 miles on it and i have gone threw 3 fuel pumps.. but the first two times it never acted like it is this time.. but the first two was not cheap fuel pump this last one was.. it wouldnt such a headache if i had a great job and can afford to replace this crap ever 6 to 10 months..i really hate cheves now.. and i have replaced the spark plugs, wires, rotor and cap.. because that was one code that keep coming up. and now after that the other code that came up was my map but took that off to see if it was dirty or even clogged and it looks like its new.. and i have checked to make sure the wires on it was not broke or damaged and they look fine.. so i am starting to give up but cant right yet because cant afford a new damn car.. grrrrrrrrr
  • Mine ended up being the idle air control valve. It was covered with sooty carbon. Also, after changing it, the blazer ran better but would stall maybe once a day (instead of every time I slowed down). I had to take it in to have the throttle body cleaned. I just got it back and it seems to be running ok, I just hope it continues to run ok.
  • Well, not only was it the IAC valve, but it appears the alternator is not fully charging under a heavy load.I get one thing fixed and another thing goes out!!! I hope you figure yours out and I hope you can get it fixed.
  • What ever happened with your blazer? I have an 01 and it runs fine until I turn on the AC and it bogs down and will stall when I slow down to turn. It does not do this when the AC is off. I have had this blazer for about 8 years and it has been fine until this long hot summer in georgia.
  • Never did get a fix for the blazer, just made sure we didn't run the air on the high or max on really hot days. The fuel pump went out in 08 and we replaced it, didn't have a problem with the stalling anymore. Wonder if there is a correlation between the two.
    I do know my daughter had a gm product (sorry don't remember what it was) and hers always stalled and fluttered but under warranty the dealership never found anything wrong with it. It was a 2001 also, a smaller car. After my husband tried replacing everything electrical, once it was out of warranty, and it still didn't fix it we sent to have it repaired, which they didn't fix the first time either When it stranded her on the express way, a few days later, and we called the guy he claims we didn't tell him it was stalling, they replaced the fuel pump and it was fine. Might want to see if someone can check your fuel pump, while it is working, it might not be working at full capacity, and maybe with the hot weather is creating a vapor lock of sorts. Just and idea no science or exact cause behind it, just sort of odd that after the fuel pump is fixed the other problem went away as well.
  • My 2001 chevy blazer, has had problems starting the last few weeks, it would just click and then eventually start fine. Then today died at stop lights while driving, made it home, and replaced battery and alternator. Started car and noticed when ac pump would turn on, battery gauge would drop below 14. When in drive with foot on break even lower reading. I tried to use power seat, and gauge dropped to like 9 (not looking good). Don't think the battery or alternator was even the problem at this point. Please help.
  • Well, got the wires, distributor cap, thermostat, and cam sensor changed. It is not going dead anymore! YAY!! However, now if I am on a dirt road behind a car, IT TAKES OFF!!! I barely touch the peddle and the RPM's shoot up and the blazer takes off like I have the peddle pushed to floor. It only happens when I am riding on a dirt road and the dust is kicked up. It is fine on the highway.
  • Well, it seems that one of the mechanics turned some screw that would make the blazer take of if I barely touched and let off the gas peddle. It would go up to 30 mph without me touching the peddle. Well, the screw was adjusted and now I am BACK TO SQUARE ONE!!! It is going dead when I make a hard stop and turn. I know it has to do with the idle somehow. This last mechanic told me that the Idle Air Control that we just put in may be bad. It is slow to respond thus causing the idle rpm's to drop. I hope it is just a bad part. Going to get and AC Delco instead of an Autozone part. Wish me luck! Anybody else having this weird problem?
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    edited September 2011
    The IAC valve seldom fails and it may just need cleaning. Remove and clean with throttle body cleaner including any debris around the port. Do not soak the IAC in solvent. Use GM 1052626 cleaner of equal.
    The IAC has a simple job. The IAC is a "electronic stepper control valve motor" and adjusts a measured amount of idle air that the ECM (Engine Computer Module) wants based on when the engiune is cold, warm, in park, in neutral or when the A.C. is on.

    Install IAC:
    1. Do not push or pull on IAC pentel if the IAC has been in service. The threads on the worn drive may be damaged.
    2. Before installing the IAC, measure the pentel from the IAC flange to the tip. It must be 1.100" . Use finger pressure to retract the pentel to 1.100" if it is in is it is excess of that measurement.
    3. Lube O-ring with a small amount of fresh engine oil.
    4. Install IAC assembly. Install the attachment screws at 27 in. lb. torque (hand tight) using blue Loctite 262. Note: Professional automobile repair technicians have a habit of over-tightening everything.
    5. Reconnect IAC harness connector.

    Reset IAC pentel position:
    1. Turn ignition on for 20 seconds.
    2. Turn ignition off for 10 seconds.
    3. Start engine
    4. Check engine idle in all conditions.

    Recommended IAC valves:
    GM 17113209....... $162.56 MSRP
    Delphi CV10011.... $80.00 retail price
  • I have a 2001 S10 blazer with a 4.3 engine. It will not start unless a booster charger is connected, I put in a new high cca battery and still have the problem. If I just turn the key for a second and let off some times it will start, if I crank it more it will not fire at all. When the engine is cranking I still have full battery voltage reading at the fuse block under the hood. Any ideas what to check next?
  • mama8mama8 Posts: 2
    I have a 1997 Chevy Blazer. Over the past 2 weeks, it has stalled out four times. The mechanic has changed the altenator, battery, ignition coil, fuel pump ,and spider something. He actually changed the spider thing yesterday, got the truck running, and it stalled out not even 10 minutes later. Now the mechanic is saying its the computer in the truck. I don't have money to keep buying parts that don't need replaced (let alone keep paying for the tows) - I am looking for any possible answers. thanks
  • It's the fuel pump. Don't let him drive you into the poor house.
    He's trying to make money off of you.
    Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.
    Those are the signs that the fuel pump is on it's way to dying.
  • mama8mama8 Posts: 2
    Will have it towed to a different shop tomorrow. thank you!
  • One year ago i replaced the battery and a terminal post. Now i cant get it started we tried a battery charge and a jump start and it turns over but it wont start. Seem like the battery is not holding a charge. Any ideas ?
  • I would say get the battery bench tested at autozone. If it turns out good it's not that. I would then look to see if the ground is good for the battery, but I don't think it's a battery issue since you said it cranks. It sounds more like a fuel issue. Can you hear the fuel pump build pressure? Get the fuel pressure tested. The last but less likely issue the key chip is not telling the computer to send fuel. Good luck keep up posted.
  • I'm not being a wise a$$ in replying to you.
    If you're going to buy a small car, buy a Toyota.
    The toyota corolla is a 300,000 mile car. Treat it like crap? It'll go 250,000 miles. Give it what it needs? It's guaranteed for 300,000 miles.
    A Small truck or SUV? Buy a Toyota.
    Full size truck or SUV? Buy a Ford F250 or bigger.

    If your next purchase is a Chevrolet, Then you deserve to be in the same place having the same problems. Just hope that it doesn't take place in a really bad spot like it did me.

    I've been a life long Chevrolet owner.
    My next vehicle purchase will be one of these Toyota's or Fords.
    Go to Craigslist and do a search for Toyota Corolla. You'll find multiple vehicles that have over 200,000 miles ORIGINAL MOTOR!

    Study the Chevrolet. You'll find that the vehicle was designed to fail. Look at repairing it? You'll find that Chevrolet designed it so that you couldn't do the work on it. They designed it to be fixed by the dealer with the expensive tools.
    One tip off: Why would ANYBODY post and rivet into place, an electronic piece of the system ONTO THE TOP OF THE MOTOR ITSELF?????
    Electronics don't do well when exposed to heat!!! But, The bright minds at GM/Chevrolet thought that it would be a fun thing to do! Just to get you back into their circle of Union Employee's who don't know how to build a good machine.
    One part that describes what I am telling you: Ignition Module. Posted onto a METAL bracket and ON TOP of the motor and what else? It's riveted there!!!

    I'll never buy a GM/ Chevrolet ever again in my life!
    Sell yours to some [non-permissible content removed] and go out an buy a good running vehicle. One that'll be reliable and safe for you and your family.
    Apparently, That's not something that it high on GM's list.
  • I have a 99 blazer and I was on my way to work when it just shut off for 2 months now it hasn't turned over.I have a new fuel pump ,fuel filter,all o2 sensors replaced, crankshaft sensor replaced,camshaft sensor replaced,new spark plugs, wires, distributer cap, rotor button. I've checked the catalyc converter done a fuel pressure test. What else could it be? Its not getting good spark. What is stopping it from starting??????
  • 1998 Blazer starts normally with no problem but will not idle intermittently. I have already replaced and or tested:

    Cam Position Sensor
    Crank Position Sensor (it was very dirty but had not been making contact with anything)
    EGR Valve (I was just going to clean it but it was beyond that)
    Throttle Position Sensor (I know, it was a long shot but I was at the auto parts store and thought what the heck, let's go ahead and replace this too.)

    Fuel Pressure is 60 PSI and holds for quite a while after turning off the engine so I am reasonably certain that it's not the fuel pump or a leak in the fuel system.

    I have not been able to find a vacuum leak anywhere and all the vacuum hoses appear to be in good shape.

    I am wondering if the actual ECM is bad/going bad. When I hook my OBD checker up to the connection in the truck it does not see the truck. I tested it on two of my other vehicles and the checker is good.

    Any ideas?
  • Well, I spent over $1000 on parts and labor at 3 different mechanics. Come to find out, my husband fixed it, but the new part he put on was bad!!!!! After changing the IAC, TPS, Ignition Coil, spark plugs and wires, Cam Position Sensor, Rotor button, Distributor Cap, Throttle body cleaned, Thermostat changed and towed because it would just stop when I let off the gas, the last mechanic found out that it was the Idle Air Control. It seems the second thing my husband changed would have fixed it, but the part was bad!!! Be careful with parts!!! I really did need some of the other stuff replaced, but did not enjoy paying for it all at once! It seems Blazers DO NOT LIKE any parts that are not AC Delco!!! Also, it seems my ignition coil (bought at Auto Zone) is not AC Delco and does not fit exactly right, so, we had to re-rout the connection so it would stay snug in the coil!
  • I will not buy another GM either. I have a 91 Ford Ranger that is still going strong. Easy to work on. My 87 Bronco II was running (fuel pump finally gone out after having it over 16 years). My husband's '97 F150 still going strong, even with a part that needs to be fixed, still drivable, and much easier to work on than GM! Also, can't get aftermarket parts to work on the Blazer, never a problem with my Fords.
  • Ignition coil and/or module?
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    edited November 2011
    Be careful of AC Delco parts too. After the bankruptcy, GM spun off the AC Delco Parts Division and now those parts are made by the lowest bidder. You can still buy AC Delco parts made by GM but the suppl;y is running out. I will never buy AC delco spark plugs anymore because they are made off-shore and you can see the poor quality cvompared to the GM versions. I now use Denso (Japan) platinum spark plugs which I will not have to change for 80,000 miles. However, I will change them at 10,000 miles just to monitor how well my Chevy 4.3L V6 engine is running. Denso TT Platinum spark plugs are cheaper than AC Delco Rapid Fire platinum spark plugs but the quality is obviously ten times better. For example, NGK (Japan) makes the expensive AC Delco Iridium spark plugs that are used in the 2011 ZR6, 550 HP Corvettes.
  • Thanks,

    That's the one part that I had discounted because it didn't seem to make a difference when the AC engaged. I'll try that next,
  • I have a 2002 Blazer. For the past few months it would occasionally act like it was going to shut itself off, but only when I was sitting still, like in traffic. This wouldn't always happen and only once or twice did it act like it wouldn't start (almost like the battery was dead), and I'd keep trying to crank it, and eventually it would go. The other day I was in bad traffic and I was sitting still for several minutes at a time. The car kept turning itself off (but interior and exterior lights would work, along with gauges) and I would have to re-crank it. After having to do this four or five times it sounded like it was getting weaker; so I pulled over to the side of the road and had someone come get me. A few hours later I went back to my car and was able to start it. I made it back home but I had to consistently keep my foot on the gas. As long as I was pushing the accelerator, it acted fine. A few people said some things about fuel filters but I know nothing about cars so it all sounds like a foreign language to me. I didn't try to start my car at all today until about an hour ago. I cranked it up and let it run in park to see how long it would take before shutting off. It maintained for about ten minutes or so, until it started shaking lightly (like it was going to shut off again). When it did this the car made a sound that sounded very similar to the way a schoolbus sounds when it's in park. I'm afraid to drive it and have no idea at all of what to do with it or how to fix it. Please Help!
  • I posted earlier, and replied to a few posts. What you are going through, is exactly what I did! EXACTLY!
    After the stall at first, I would try to start it up, and boom, it started as if there was no problem.
    It all happens about 10 to 15 minutes after the first start.
    Do not trust it anymore!
    I took mine out of town, it stalled and would not start back up.
    I had it towed from sedona to phoenix. Rental car, place to stay for the night. Equally $800.00!
    Your fuel pump is on it's way out!
    Plan on spending about $600.00 for it to be fixed.
    Give or take 1 hundred.
    The pump alone will cost you about $400.00. Mine is the 2 door 4x4 ZR2.
    There are several different ones, GM and Chevy had to make things harder.
    Don't listen to what shops and stores tell you!
    They'll say it's the coil, the distributor, spark plugs, ignition control module. BS! I changed out all of those and a few others.
    It's the fuel pump.
    Do Not Buy the cheap brands for under 100 bucks!
    I did that, it lasted about 8 months, and I'm back to square one!
    Mine gets fixed on the 1st of the new year, from sitting for over 6 months!
    Do not let checkers, autozone or others like that talk you into buying the other things.
    If you're going to get one thing from them, rent the fuel pressure guage.
    You get your money back when you take it back.
    It's an easy procedure to do! ANYBODY can do it!
    Also, when mine stalled out over 20 times! It gave NO trouble codes!
    It even stalled at autozone in front of the guy. He checked for codes...NOTHING!
    Trust me, dude! It's the fuel pump! And it's inside of the gas tank. The brilliant minds at GM made everything hard to fix on it.
    Also, don't let them tell you it's a sensor.
    Just have them scan it for trouble codes. If nothing shows up? Then it can't be a sensor! The sensors talk to the computer, the computer then shows a code.
    Remember that!
    Also, don't let them tell you it's the crank sensor.
    My 1st original pump didn't even make it to 120,000 miles!
    What's your mileage?
  • mileage is around 210,000
  • Since it's gotten cold out (below 40) my blazer won't start on the first try after turning the ignition for 2 seconds (as long as it would take to normally start), but trying the 2nd time it starts okay. If I hold the key for much longer than 2 seconds it starts chugging but won't start and if I try a second time it chugs faster and will eventually start. It's got about 160k miles, I got a tune up 2 years, 10k miles ago, and that fixed the problem once before. Coolant temperature sensor (new) has recently been put in and a mass airflow sensor (from junkyard) has also been put in.
  • Hey All,
    I have a 2002 Chevy blazer with about 215,000 miles on it. My fuel pump gave out ( I've had no other problems with my blazer before this, it ran just beautifully) recently and I had it replaced. After getting it back from my mechanic I noticed I was getting half of the gas mileage I used to get. I took it back and my mechanic changed my spark plugs. I picked up my car and drove it home. The next time I went to start my car it would not start. I had it towed to the firestone down the street, and had to change my Dist cap and rotary back. My car started up just fine, strong as ever. I'm still getting this horrible gas mileage, any ideas on what it could possibly be?
  • I have 2003 Chevy Blazer with 56,000 miles on it. When I start it to run an errand and drive it for less than a half hour - run in and come out after 20-30 minutes it will not kick in. Have to wait a few minutes and give it a few tries and finally starts. Replaced the fuel pump over a year and a half ago. The mechanic cannot figure this out. This has been in the shop 3 times for this issues.

    Note: This only happens in the Winter when the temp is 32 degrees or below. Once the weather warms up no issues...........I can count on this starting every December for the past 3 years!
    :mad:
  • Sounds like a bad connection or wire that has moisture freezing on it (on a bad spot or bad/loose connection and the freezing moisture expands causing a loss of connection) and messing up your connection until the moisture unfreezes which allows for connection again.
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