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Chevy Blazer Starting and Stalling Problems



  • jyoung4478jyoung4478 Posts: 3
    Hi, I've been reading the passed posts and found it very interesting, I've had my Blazer for over a year now, and want to tune it up. My little sissy truck ran fine up until I got the brite idea to drive from florida to virginia (some 1800 miles). Before I left I changed the oil, the battery, and the air filter. The plugs, rotor and cap had been replaced with in a the passed 6 month so i thought nothing of it. I left on a rainy morning, it rained most on the way up and back. I noticed about the South Caralina border and the Service engine soon light came on border the engine was running a little ruff, and the Catalytic converter sounded like it had hole in it, the brakes had no vaccum assist and were hard to push. the further north I went the worse it got it would stall at lights and idol fast and slow, but seemed fine on the highway. In virginia I changed the plugs cap rotor and PVC valve. No change, i raised the idol a little so it would run at stop lights. And headed back to Florida. Another damp trip, but the truck seemed to run better the further south I got. Any ideas of what may have caused this. It still seems tempermental but is running a little better. The truck is old with over 200,000 miles on it but up until now the only trouble i've had is a fuel pump and tires. Also i noticed alot of carbon (black powder around the mouth of the intake can this be cleaned out like a regular carb (spray gunk) and is there anything else I can changeout during a tune up? THanks
  • My 2000 Blazer acts as if it "misses" a little, too, when I run the A/C. It runs just fine if I shut it off.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Okay, first off, not carb cleaner, but throttle body cleaner. Something different in the chemistry.

    Second, check the vacuum line coming from the intake manifold over to the vacuum resevoir. Would be in the area around the brake booster.
  • nmurielnmuriel Posts: 4
    While we haven't had really hot weather here were I am forced to run my air conditionaire on max, I am hoping the issue is fixed. We had to replace the fuel pump a while back, and I am just wondering if that was causing my issues.
    Keep in mind this ONLY happens when the weather is in the 90's and I have the air on MAX. Disconnecting the battery and waiting 10 minutes clears everything up. We have been advised to replace the O2 senors but that can get expensive if you have to do that every year.
    The reason I thing the fuel pump might have been the culprit is my daughter has a 1999 Cavalair and always had problems with the TAC jumping and stalling for no reason. Had the engine replaced at 60,000 with the same issues. The vehicle finally would go no more after about another 60,000 or so and we ended up changing the fuel pump, and knock on wood it runs fine now.
    In the Balazer's case the fuel pump just up and quit in my daughters case it never quit just kept jerking and stalling a lot.
    Will keep everyone in formed if the fuel pump fixes my problem as well. :blush:
  • I have a 2001 Jimmy GMC and some days my truck will start and some days it won't I have put it on a computer and it's not reading any problems. I have changed the rotor,distri.cap I have reset the computer,and they say nothing's wrong with my fuel pump it's giving the right reading could anyone help me with this problem and when this started it's hard to put it in gear please help me anybody
  • spck68spck68 Posts: 1
    my blazer wont start unless i spray carb cleaner in the carb.i've read that u need 60 psi to start but mine only has 50 to 55 key on engine has a new fuel filter so dose that mean i just need to replace the pump? btw once i get it started it runs fine and useully will start again but not after sitting all night.plz help
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Sounds more like a leaking fuel spider assembly. 55 psi is probably enough to get it going, and not likely to increase once started. If the fuel pump were bad, it wouldn't want to keep running.

    You said this is a '97 model. You shouldn't be spraying carb cleaner into it as there are components that can be harmed. You might try taking the MAF out and cleaning it with an approved cleaner. The throttle body can be cleaned, but should be done with throttle body cleaner, not carb cleaner.
  • elaney1981elaney1981 Posts: 16
    I agree with the other post either the spider or the fuelpressure regulator. Its not a hard job to do only took me 45 minutes, just make sure the bolts go back into the right location.
  • kingusa95kingusa95 Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 blazer that will not start. It will turn over but not start up. I am getting a fuel pressure of 45, i do not know what it should be at. I am thinking my fuel pump is bad. I replaced one about 3 years ago. Anyone have a suggestion?
  • elaney1981elaney1981 Posts: 16
    The problem is the fuel pressure regulator. the pressure should be 55-60. even 45 is too low. hope this helps.
  • kingusa95kingusa95 Posts: 2
    thanks for the info. where is the pressure regulator? is it easy to change?
  • yruffinyruffin Posts: 2
    About a year ago I noticed a problem with my 97 chevy blazer. The check gages light was coming on every now and then and sometimes it would cut off while I was at a light or stop sign. Then one day after I had driven the car all day, I came home and parked for about an hour. When I went to start the car it acted as if it wanted to start but did'nt. Six months prior to this I had gotten a new fuel pump, radiator, battery, and the spider and fuel valves changed. The fuel pump was from auto zone. The vechile has been sitting up for maybe a year and a half and I miss my truck. I did not have the money to get it fixed being that five to six months prior to the break down I had spent around $1,000.00 to get those things that I mentioned fixed. Can someone please help me try to figure out what is wrong? Any suggestions would help. I miss my truck!
  • I would try the crank positioning sensor.
  • yruffinyruffin Posts: 2
    Where is it located and about how much does it cost for the sensor?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    The crank sensor is at 7 o'clock position when looking at the crankshaft pulley. It has two wires going to it, and takes about 5 minutes to change. That's the good news.

    The bad news is that it costs 60-70 bucks! I have seen CPS failure occur two different ways. One is just driving along and boom, engine dies. If you try and restart, no-worky, but if you turn the key to off, wait a few seconds, then try to start the car it will fire right up. The other failure mode I have seen is an engine shutdown at high RPM, and coming back online when the speed slows down, sort of like hitting a governor. The intermittent failure may or may not set a code. The high RPM failure will only set a code if it occurs three times within an operating cycle. That means you start the car and get it to occur three times before turning the car off.

    I would suggest getting someone with a code reader to check for stored codes. You can spend a lot of money on sensors before you hit the right one.
  • I have a 99 blazer that when I get to a stop and try and go it stalls, starts right up until I stop again. I have changed the fuel filter, sparkplugs and wires, did a diagnostic test and gas pressure, everything is fine. It has good get up and go, smooth drive until we stop and press the gas and it stalls. Any ideas? :confuse:
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    That is s symptom of a bad TCC (Torque Converter Clutch) solenoid.

    In plain English, the TCC solenoid locks up the torque converter in the transmission to give you better gas milage. The lock-up must occur when the engine is fully warmed up and at higher cruising speeds or stalling will occur. The TCC has a wiring connector in plain view and can be disconnected. The car can be driven with the TCC disconnected without causing any problems besides a little higher fuel consumption. Drive the car with the TCC disconected for a few days and if the stalling problem disappears, viola, the problem is located.
  • The engin seems to stall more when gas gauge reads 1/4 or less, but fuelpump was tested and it was good. Where is the TCC wiring located?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Does the engine pick up at all when you step on the throttle? A "bad spot" in the throttle position sensor, or the wires to it, can cause this. If the stall doesn't occur until the vehicle starts to move, and with 1/4 tank or less, I would wonder about the fuel pickup. Tested when sitting still, the pump would show correct pressure, but when you move, the gas will move in the tank and could cause a damaged/mis-positioned fuel pickup to suck air. If you can restart the car and drive away with no problem, that wouldn't seem to be the case.

    Get the computer scanned (Autozone is one that will check) and see if you have any codes. There are a couple of sensors that could cause this, but they should throw codes. Idle air control solenoid, TPS, CPS (intermittent).
  • I have a 2001 4.2l Chev Blazer bought in from Japan @12000ks[7.5mls] and have had bad bad problems with starting like it wants to start but hydraulics and splutters. It has cost me in excess of $3000 and a new starter motor in fixit charges and eventually found the sensor on crankshaft replaced seemed to cure it. Some months later it refused to start again same symptoms..tow truck to GM agent and top thingy like a distributor replaced. Eventually diagnosed that the sensor on crankshaft MUST be set by GM dealer otherwise the problem will recure. At the same time get the factory transmission upgrade. Good luck. John in Greymouth New Zealand
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