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Chevy Blazer Starting and Stalling Problems



  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Have you taken it to a Chevy dealer yet - once a local shop can't find it thats the next step - trying to find an intermittent problem is a pain - GM seen them all and Blazers have many.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Standard fix is a new fuel pump assembly in the tank, or possible pressure regulator on the injection assembly under the upper intake. Have to test at port on fuel rail with a pressure tester and watch the pressure to see if its within specs then if it drops with the key off (key on engine off should be min of 60psi and running 54psi). As a test turn your key on, wait a few seconds and see if pressure builds then start - anything lower than 60psi (from the articles on this injection type) state that it will not be enough to fire all 6 injectors in a rich start state.
  • The dealer put the new injectors and fuel pump in. I think I'm capable to change a SENSOR BUT THE DEALERS CODE READER SAYS THE SAME AS MINE. Maybe I should try another dealer???
    Changing the coil this morning.
  • samm00samm00 Posts: 6
    Did you solve this problem yet - our 01 is also stalling gen when the temp outside is hot - told the pressure in the fuel pump is good?? Any advice welcome???
  • No it still does it. The other nite it did it and I again had to put it in Nuetral while moving and then restart and I had all the power I wanted. I can't figure it out and it's really frustrating!!! Any one with any help would be greatly appreciated
  • samm00samm00 Posts: 6
    We were told we have a Vapor lock - but they didnt know how to get rid of it?
  • I was always under the understanding that fuel injection eliminated that problem. Now don't quote me on that but I'm 80% sure thats the case.
    Sounds like your emissions system isn't working properly or your fuel filter needs to be changed.
    Is your service engine lite on ? If so have your dealer or mechanic check your codes to see where the problem may lie
  • samm00samm00 Posts: 6
    This started after our 01 Blazer ran out of gas, now stalling happens on going down hill and seems to be in hot weather, the fuel guage is also inacurrate - any links - ideas - we also had intermittent O2 sensor codes in the winter?????? We had a new filter and the fuel pump has been checked!
  • HOnda prelude cranks but wont start. Havent been driven for quite some time. Left parked in the summer heat.Worked for a while Drove for two days and shut off while driving.. Advice would be appreciated.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    If fuel pressure was 60psi key on engine off and then 53psi up running its OK. Possible crankshaft position sensor failing or back connection - under front of engine there is a plug in connector (under harmonic balancer /water pump area - you'll see if from underneath. They are magnetic and tell the computer when to fire the plugs - when they fully die no spark and no SES light so a pain - about $60 part held in by an 8mm bolt - easy to do. Cheap one to do and rules that out. Check coil wire also with ohm meter and make sure its OK and also no arcing to metal anywhere. Then the coil itslf should be tested if this continues.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    For your blazer model honda (ha ha): If you have spark then check the cold start injector with an ohm meter - if they are out of spec that baby will never fire up cold (additional one just for cold starts). Look resistance value up - no honda book here.
  • :lemon: Got a 96 S10 Blazer 4.3 CPI. When stepping on the gas more than just a little bit the engine bogs and will die out and often pops threw the intake when it's doing this. It does this in park or under load. I bought a fuel pressure guage and at idle it's around 50. If I bring it up to a very fast idle it climbs to 55-60 PSI. Theres no engine light and no stored codes but the problem pursists. I can nurse it to highway speeds but at any steady speed it's surging. Filters been replaced but the old one was only a few months old. Also, it starts and idles perfectly. Truck has 176,000 miles on the original spark plugs. I wanted to pull the plugs but I can't even get my hand into where they are.... I'd love to meet the idiot that designed this thing...... Anyone have a cure to this sick truck ???? I can't afford dealer service rates ($100+) I also can't afford to throw parts at it until I hit the bad part...... :lemon:

  • 176k and you are complaining - that made me laugh!
    First things first is maintenance schedule and until that is up to date even the shop will insist on a few parts to eliminate reasons.
    1. Plugs, cap and rotor, plug wires, PCV (100k max miles) - most common reason for misfires, crossfires, bad running.
    2. Air and fuel filters (30k normal by conditions)

    After those there is the MAF sensor to spray clean, EGR possible carboned up, etc but do the above first. Plugs are easy to do thru the wheel well openings and only #3 has the steering shaft in the way and is a pain. Plug wires take awhile to snake around and don't pull hard on them and use dielectric grease in all ends and on drivers side watch order as its in cap 3-1-5 order (pass side is 2-4-6) and cap is marked - do not buy the cheapo stuff - if will fail - has on me and drives you crazy later. Cap has 2 torx screws holding on and you have to be careful and don't drop the screws in the dist! Rotor same thing.
    Hope that helps and good luck - 176k is great. How is the Coolant doing - 3 years should be changed and 4.3s are known to have leaking lower intake gaskets by 100k normally so watch the level - new thermostat and Stant cap with the flush change is recommended to keep it going - another forgotten thing till it has problems.
  • I have the same vehicle and had exactly the same problem. After changing damn near every filter, sensor and believe me I wish I didn't, here it was the fuel pump. Even though it gave good pressure at idle and when you reved the motor in park, when it came to any movement it failed.
    This isn't to say new plugs and wires won't help, but trust me on this, it's the fuel pump!
  • My guess is definately the plugs, wires and cap/rotor assembly. If you pull the front wheels off you should have no problem reaching the plugs except the #3. But it you jack up the engine a little with the floor jack it lifts it just enough to be able to get it over the stering column. Good luck.
  • I would get a voltmeter or better still a scope on the O2 signal output. If it's an old/original sensor and not been replaced for 100K + miles then it will definitely be slow and likely causing havock with your computer trying to keep the emissions tight. I had an heated oxygen sensor go on me and just before the heater finally gave up the ghost it would bog down when accelerating. The ECU finally worked out the sensor was out of spec and pulled it open loop and the engine was driveable again. A new 02 sensor fixed the problem and cleared the "check Wallet Light". On a scope you should see a clean sine wave type waveform, going 800mv or more peak and 150mv or lower in the trough. The rise time should be 100msec or better. Without a scope, as a test you could disconnect your 02 sensor and see if the engine runs better in the situations you encounter the problem most. This might cause a little hunting at idle but the engine should run fine with the sensor out and effectively forcing an open loop feedback for the ECU. I'm guessing your ECU isn't quite seeing your O2 sensor so keeps in closed loop but it's just too slow. So in sudden changes of load or acceleration it's still reading the signal but it's just to slow and inaccurate to react, so it's throwing the mixture way too rich and then lean. Good luck!
  • Hey Brian , I have the same problem you had .My 95 Blazer 4.3 W vin will start fine ,idles ok . When I try to drive it sputters and doesnt go over 2000rpm. Mine has 150k miles on it, the fuel pump is 4 months old ,the wires and plugs were done about 2 years did you fix yours?
  • In October I bought a 2001 Chevy Blazer LS from a used car lot locally. Shortly after I purchased the vehicle I stopped at convenience store and turned the truck off. Upon returning the truck would not start. It would turn over fine but not start. I waited about 10 minutes and it started again. Then a couple weeks later I drove the vehicle from New York to Virginia. Once at my time share in VA I turned the truck off and a few minutes later the same thing, it wouldn’t start. I called the dealership and was told to disconnect the battery let it sit for a few moments and retry as it was a notorious problem with the anti-theft system. I did so, however, it did not immediately start. After about 20 minutes of sitting it did start.

    Since October I have had no problems with the vehicle until December 18th. I went outside in the morning and attempted to start the truck and like before, it wouldn’t start. It turned over ok but would not ignite. After waiting still no joy. I had the vehicle towed to the dealerships garage and was told it was the fuel pump and would cost $425.00 to repair.

    My issue is when I bought the truck it had the 60 day warrantee. I informed the dealer of this problem during the warrantee and was told it was a notorious problem with the anti-theft system and not to worry just to let it sit and it would start again. I told them this was the same problem as before and was told it wasn’t the fuel pump before because fuel pumps just don’t stop working then start working again.

    I called a reputable Chevy dealership and was told the anti-theft system would not allow the truck to turn over and that furthermore it was possible for the fuel pump to malfunction and then begin functioning again.

    My questions are...
    1. Do you think it was indeed the fuel pump that was prohibiting the truck from starting?
    2. Is it indeed possible for the pump to malfunction and then begin functioning again?

    I am paying for the repairs however; I intend to file a complaint with the NYS Attorney General regarding my warrantee not covering the repairs. Any insight anyone could give would be appreciated.
  • My starter went bad, when i was removing it i saw that it was only being held by one bolt instead of two. When i took it outi was able to see that the other bolt had been broken. I tried drilling out and jut made the whole thing worst. I piece from where the bolt is broke off, then i decided to drill a whole all the way to the other side to try holding it thighter, but now nothing works, what can i do!!!??? HELP PLEASE!!!
  • jtheifjtheif Posts: 4
    I having problems starting my truck in the cold it only happens when it gets cold. If I start it by crossing the starter it will start up (like touch the positive on the negitve nuts on the start it will start right up)other then that once i get it started and go some wherethen park shut off i have a problem restarting it it take several turns of the ignition before it starts back up. the starter i have is brand new maybe 2 months old the starter will click when the key is turned but the flywheel does not move till i cross the starter if anyone has any ideas it would be helpful
    Thanx Frustated Auto Guy
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