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Chevy Blazer Starting and Stalling Problems



  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    edited July 2011
    A failing Ignition Control Module (ICM) in the distributor can have the exact symptoms. A cheap or defective ICM can fail when it gets hot and then it will start normally when it cools. I suggest that you replace the ICM with a new AC Delco ICM or a Standard Motor Products ICM and use Arctic Silver #5 heat sink compound rather than the high temperature silicone grease that comes with the modules. AC Delco (GM) and SMP are the most dependable ICM and they are also the most expensive....go figure. Due to the bankruptcy, GM spun off their AC Delco Parts Division and now I am becoming wary of using any ACDelco products..

    Unfortunately, the 1987 - 2002 S10/S15 trucks and Blazers are delicate and are "high maintenance" vehicles. They do not respond well to most cheap off-shore replacement parts. However, I installed Denso TT double platinum spark plugs in my 1991 S10 Blazer. The Denso spark plugs are made in Japan and IMO, are much better than the ACDelco Rapid Fire single platinum spark plugs that are made in Mexico and Denso TT spark plugs cost half as much as AC Delco Rapid Fire spark plugs. The new ACDelco Rapid Fire spark plugs have recently been redesigned and now appear to be a two dollar spark plug in a three dollar box.

    The logo has been changed from AC Delco owned by GM to ACDelco, owned by whoever, with no space between the AC and Delco.
  • My 1988 s10 blazer did exactly this, Stall, cool down, and start back up.
    I tried everything, even the fuel pump. Still wasn't a fix, traded it in for another 1998 s10 blazer.
    Then about in 2004 I bought a 2002 ZR2 blazer and what takes place at 118K?
    $500.00 Fuel Pump!
    I had it replaced, and then only at 123k, This stalling issue arises.
    What do ya know?!?!
    I'm back to the 1988 Blazer issue. Wow! It seems that GM and Chevrolet haven't fixed this issue. Hmm, I wonder why? Maybe because they seen this "issue" as a Cash Cow?
    I would have to think so. Being that so many of us experience the SAME STALLING for no apparent reason. Hmm, I wonder why they pushed for their "Owner Loyalty" program so much? Do you think that it could be that so many of us are still having 2 and 3 decade old issues with our GM made vehicles, that they would have to get us buying another GM product by giving us a discount?
    I would have to say so!
    Google yourself this issue with any model year s10 and you'll read the same stalling.
    No sure fix yet.
    I've been a Chevy man all of my life!
    Until Now!
    Next vehicle.....FORD!
    There is NO Way on this planet that I'll pay for a Hummer H3, which is a FAT ZR2, totally based on the blazer zr2 and for 10k more.

    Now I understand why GM scrapped the entire s10 line.
    And I also understand why such a large company went under.
    Way to go GM, Just change the names and keep selling the same cheap products.
    Cavalier = Cobalt
    Blazer ZR2 = Hummer H3
    Blazer LS = HHR
    LOL, seriously now!
  • What was wrong with your Blazer? Mine is doing the same thing and the mechanic is having a hard time fixing it!
  • Its the fuel pump!
    After changing all of this:
    Ignition coil, distributor cap and rotor, ignition module, sparkplugs, cables.
    After changing all of them, it still would stall.
    Then soon after I changed the plugs, it got so bad, it wouldn't even start.
    Even after sitting.
    Now remember this part. Everybody seemed like an expert.
    Do not but the cheaper types of fuel pumps. Because the one that I have to replace now, only got me to 10 months!
    This is the 3rd fuel pump. I'm saving up the $399.00 to but the original AC Delco.
    Everything else is JUNK! Do not waste your money on the cheaper brands.
    I was also told that the cam sensors are really problematic on the entire lines of ALL GM cars. Right now it's not the issue, but I will have it changed out asap.
    Have you checked the fuel pressure?
    That will tell you without a doubt that it is the pump.
    When it stalls, check the pressure on the fuel line valve that's right behind the fuel intake. It is like a valve on your tire, but made of metal.
    Stick a tip of a pen in there after it stalls. If the gass shoots out? Its not the pump.
    But if it doesn't shoot out? It's definitely your pump!
    There should be enough pressure to spray out like a bat out of hell. Mine just basically spurted out, and after that, no preasure at all.
    Write back on here if you find the culprit.
    I will say this, i'll never buy another GM 4 or 6 banger.
    GM built them to fail, that's why GM and ac delco used to be one in the same.
    To make money from their junk cars!
    Look it up as I did, and learn.
    A heart warming story of a massive company that got greedy and lost customers because of their cheap products.
    This is why they needed the bail out money.
    Massive Loss of car sales and customer loyalty.
  • Typo: fuel intake was supposed to be air intake.
  • The ignition control Moduel if its a 95 depending on if the sparkplugs come out the side of distributor or the top if its the top like mine take two screws off distibutor cap remove two screws on icm and change it for about 40 bucks make sure you put the temp grease on it before you install it . these get hot and cutr off the distributor from sending a charge to the plug to spark in the cylinder. so long story short change your icm it fixed mine . try it
  • The mechanic who changed to rotor tested the fuel pump and it is passed the pressure test. Also, changing the rotor did not help. Next, we changed to Idle Air Control valve and it ran fine for about 1 week and now it is stalling periodically again. I noticed that if it is not too hot outside it does not stall as much. My next "guess" is the ignition module getting hot and shutting her down. I am going to change the coil and the module and see what happens next. I will repost soon with an update.

    Sorry you had trouble with the fuel pump! That's an expensive fix!
  • jmddn41jmddn41 Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 92 Full size fuel injected Chevy Blazer. Usually runs strong but every now and them it won't start, then i'll give it about an hour and its ok. The engine turns over fine, but gets weaker and weaker everytime. I know its no the battery because Ive tried jumping it and even replacing the battery. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks, Joethe the
  • My '95 Blazer stalls periodically when pressing the gas from a stop (stop light or after starting). It usually runs for maybe 30 minutes and then stall at a stop light when I lightly accelerate from the stop. Sometimes it won't stall on a short trip. It's fairly intermittent.
    After it stalls it will never immediately restart. I have to wait ~10 minutes and then it starts every time. It runs great other than the stalling.
    I also have an EGR code being thrown so I cleaned it and replaced the seal. The code is still being thrown but I don't think it's related.
    At this point I started looking at the fuel system.

    Hooked up a pressure gauge:
    turned the key to ACC: ~60psi
    Start the engine: 60psi but then goes down to about 54psi
    Stop the engine and wait 5 min: ~52 psi

    At this point I assume the Fuel regulator is good.

    I left the fuel pressure gauge hooked up and went for a drive. It stalled in a parking lot. The pressure was around 40psi. I then relieved the pressure to zero psi.
    With the key to ACC: zero psi
    cranked the engine: still zero psi.
    Waited ~10 minutes and put the key to ACC: ~60psi (then and cranked and started the engine -- it ran fine)

    The fuel relay is good (it supplies power to the pump but the pump does not engage).
    Since the pump is being powered but does not turn on it has to be a faulty fuel pump correct?
  • Well, to be honest, i changed the coil pack and module.
    No differance, and shortly after changing the cap and rotor, it would not start.
    So, after all of the other changes, a guy at checker said that the cam shaft sensors are terrible in all 4 and 6 banger gm's.
    I never changed that....yet.
    I then decided to check gas pressure, i can hear the pump charge sometimes, but not all.
    So i figure its the fuel pump.
    If i change the fuel pump, and it still doesn't run or start, i'm giving up and selling as a parts car. I've just had it with GM-Chevy.
    At this point, i'm already saying-"Never again in my life will i spend another dime on GM-Government Motors.
    Next truck will definitely be a ford f350.
    I'm tired of dealing with garbage.
    This Blazer ZR2 hasn't even hit 10 years, and it just hit 121,000 miles and has been babied.
    My 88 s10 was built like a tank when compared to this piece of junk.
    I even beat the hell out of it as if was my first 4x4.
    The $40.00 fuel pump made it to 164,000 miles.
    This $400.00 fuel pump, original, didn't make it to 120,000.
    GM should be JM and stand for Junk Motors, as far as i am concerned!
    But, never again.
    FORD, here i come!
  • i am having the same issue with it starting and i can drive it but when i stop it stalls but i can start it right up if i put my foot on the gas pedal just a little bit.. but i really have to gun it to keep it started. but when i drive it and stop or even slow down to turn a corner the dang thing just stops.. i have never had this much problems with a truck or even a car in my life.. my blazer is at 189,000 miles on it and i have gone threw 3 fuel pumps.. but the first two times it never acted like it is this time.. but the first two was not cheap fuel pump this last one was.. it wouldnt such a headache if i had a great job and can afford to replace this crap ever 6 to 10 months..i really hate cheves now.. and i have replaced the spark plugs, wires, rotor and cap.. because that was one code that keep coming up. and now after that the other code that came up was my map but took that off to see if it was dirty or even clogged and it looks like its new.. and i have checked to make sure the wires on it was not broke or damaged and they look fine.. so i am starting to give up but cant right yet because cant afford a new damn car.. grrrrrrrrr
  • Mine ended up being the idle air control valve. It was covered with sooty carbon. Also, after changing it, the blazer ran better but would stall maybe once a day (instead of every time I slowed down). I had to take it in to have the throttle body cleaned. I just got it back and it seems to be running ok, I just hope it continues to run ok.
  • Well, not only was it the IAC valve, but it appears the alternator is not fully charging under a heavy load.I get one thing fixed and another thing goes out!!! I hope you figure yours out and I hope you can get it fixed.
  • What ever happened with your blazer? I have an 01 and it runs fine until I turn on the AC and it bogs down and will stall when I slow down to turn. It does not do this when the AC is off. I have had this blazer for about 8 years and it has been fine until this long hot summer in georgia.
  • Never did get a fix for the blazer, just made sure we didn't run the air on the high or max on really hot days. The fuel pump went out in 08 and we replaced it, didn't have a problem with the stalling anymore. Wonder if there is a correlation between the two.
    I do know my daughter had a gm product (sorry don't remember what it was) and hers always stalled and fluttered but under warranty the dealership never found anything wrong with it. It was a 2001 also, a smaller car. After my husband tried replacing everything electrical, once it was out of warranty, and it still didn't fix it we sent to have it repaired, which they didn't fix the first time either When it stranded her on the express way, a few days later, and we called the guy he claims we didn't tell him it was stalling, they replaced the fuel pump and it was fine. Might want to see if someone can check your fuel pump, while it is working, it might not be working at full capacity, and maybe with the hot weather is creating a vapor lock of sorts. Just and idea no science or exact cause behind it, just sort of odd that after the fuel pump is fixed the other problem went away as well.
  • My 2001 chevy blazer, has had problems starting the last few weeks, it would just click and then eventually start fine. Then today died at stop lights while driving, made it home, and replaced battery and alternator. Started car and noticed when ac pump would turn on, battery gauge would drop below 14. When in drive with foot on break even lower reading. I tried to use power seat, and gauge dropped to like 9 (not looking good). Don't think the battery or alternator was even the problem at this point. Please help.
  • Well, got the wires, distributor cap, thermostat, and cam sensor changed. It is not going dead anymore! YAY!! However, now if I am on a dirt road behind a car, IT TAKES OFF!!! I barely touch the peddle and the RPM's shoot up and the blazer takes off like I have the peddle pushed to floor. It only happens when I am riding on a dirt road and the dust is kicked up. It is fine on the highway.
  • Well, it seems that one of the mechanics turned some screw that would make the blazer take of if I barely touched and let off the gas peddle. It would go up to 30 mph without me touching the peddle. Well, the screw was adjusted and now I am BACK TO SQUARE ONE!!! It is going dead when I make a hard stop and turn. I know it has to do with the idle somehow. This last mechanic told me that the Idle Air Control that we just put in may be bad. It is slow to respond thus causing the idle rpm's to drop. I hope it is just a bad part. Going to get and AC Delco instead of an Autozone part. Wish me luck! Anybody else having this weird problem?
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    edited September 2011
    The IAC valve seldom fails and it may just need cleaning. Remove and clean with throttle body cleaner including any debris around the port. Do not soak the IAC in solvent. Use GM 1052626 cleaner of equal.
    The IAC has a simple job. The IAC is a "electronic stepper control valve motor" and adjusts a measured amount of idle air that the ECM (Engine Computer Module) wants based on when the engiune is cold, warm, in park, in neutral or when the A.C. is on.

    Install IAC:
    1. Do not push or pull on IAC pentel if the IAC has been in service. The threads on the worn drive may be damaged.
    2. Before installing the IAC, measure the pentel from the IAC flange to the tip. It must be 1.100" . Use finger pressure to retract the pentel to 1.100" if it is in is it is excess of that measurement.
    3. Lube O-ring with a small amount of fresh engine oil.
    4. Install IAC assembly. Install the attachment screws at 27 in. lb. torque (hand tight) using blue Loctite 262. Note: Professional automobile repair technicians have a habit of over-tightening everything.
    5. Reconnect IAC harness connector.

    Reset IAC pentel position:
    1. Turn ignition on for 20 seconds.
    2. Turn ignition off for 10 seconds.
    3. Start engine
    4. Check engine idle in all conditions.

    Recommended IAC valves:
    GM 17113209....... $162.56 MSRP
    Delphi CV10011.... $80.00 retail price
  • I have a 2001 S10 blazer with a 4.3 engine. It will not start unless a booster charger is connected, I put in a new high cca battery and still have the problem. If I just turn the key for a second and let off some times it will start, if I crank it more it will not fire at all. When the engine is cranking I still have full battery voltage reading at the fuse block under the hood. Any ideas what to check next?
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