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Chevy Blazer Starting and Stalling Problems

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  • At that many miles, I'd have to tell you to start saving up for a down payment. I'm not being a smart alec, I just don't know too many GM's, Fords or dodge that are worth anything afte 200k miles.
    Some people might have these that made it past 200k, like you, but believe me, it's an oddity.
    But do look into a Toyota for a small 4 or 6 cylinder.
    Ford F-250 or 350 for a full size truck.
    Research and see for yourself how many toyota's are reaching 300k at 400k miles.
    A small for, GM or dodge reaching 300k? Just doesn't happen.
  • the check engine light is on and its coming up its the electronic stall converter,but didnt want to rip the tranny out if there is something else triggering the light,any ideas?????
  • Did you ever find a solution for this? Because my 2001 Jimmy is having similar problems
  • No had some work done and had fuel filter replaced. Runs better, for now. The real test is hot weather, that is when the stalling was at its worst.
  • I took my 2003 Chevy Blazer to the dealer 3 times the last time they kept it for a week and my result THEY HAD NO CLUE.......................NICE!
  • s10junkowners10junkowner Posts: 10
    edited January 2012
    Fuel Pump.
    I was told by an authorized dealer, the fuel pump doesn't send codes.
    Now remember this part:
    I went to all the parts sellers, Checker, Autozone, and none of them knew this. They just kept saying, "Sounds like blah blah blah...." And of course, I bought about 400 bucks worth of parts. Some even said the engine crank sensor. If it was the engine crack sensor, that would send a code. So don't let them [non-permissible content removed] you. Take it straight to a dealer.
    Mine was fixed, it was the fuel pump and now I'm back in business.

    Also another tip. I had them put in the exact brand name fuel pump.
    Best Part: LifeTime Warranty, and guaranteed because a profesional authorized shop installed it.
    If it ever goes out on me again, I get a new one FOR FREE!!!

    My Blazer 4.3 ZR2 would start fine, then after about 10 minutes, begin to sputter or just cut out completely.
    It finally died. After 6 months of sitting in the driveway, I threw in a new battery, it cranked and started enough for me to move it.
    I let it idle, then it died, never to start again.
    The dealer sent a tow truck, they took it, I got it back with a new fuel pump and I'm back in business!

    Don't waste your time on parts store. Have a dealer pick it up and fix it.
    But also have about a grand for this. The pump on my 2002 ZR2 was $420.00.
    I hope this helps!
  • It was my fuel pump. Had it installed at the dealer with original part and lifetime warranty. It's been running fine ever since.
  • Ys theres a sencer at throtle opening I unplugged counted to 10 and plugged it in again, I guess it resets the system.
  • i have a 1995 chevy blazer 4wd, 4.3. when i start driving, its when i hit the gas it sounds like it wants to stop. like there isnt enough fuel getting to it. i took it to a mechanic and he checked the code, it was egr valve, he took it apart, cleaned it, put it back and cleared the code. said it would take 2 days til it ran smooth again. 3 days ago. still doing it, now flashing check engine soon multiple times, sounds like it is chugging......im thinking fuel pump or filter. please, any help or ideas
  • Remember Ford did not have to take the bailout. But Government motors and doop did. Lol
    The recent world reports on the most reliable cars and trucks is Ford. yes they had their moments of trouble, but, all the manufacturers in america did then. But now Ford is a real world contender and they always had the best truck. So yes your decision to buy a ford next time is a wise one. Chevy trucks are no more than glorified cars anyway.
  • hey, remember one thing, unless you do need to haul in the bed 4000 plus pounds or more, you only need a ford f 150, the 2012 model payload capacity from ther ford website is 3060lbs. that is more than the 2500 hd chevy. so remember the f-150m is the same as the 2500 chevy and the 3500 dodge.
  • Not to be rude, But General Motors has had its issues, But alot of the farms i've been to or worked on all have GM work trucks with over 400k on them, I rarely hear of fords with more then 250 before they completely run dry. I personally own a 96 Jimmy and it has 325 000 on it. The only problem is the fuel pump (I was not told by a shop mechanic, My father trains Dealership mechanics in Saskatchewan) So for anyone reading this, Chevy and GMC are some of the most reliable and dependable vehicles. Save for some engineering issues.
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    The "spider" fuel distribution assembly is a sore spot on the 1992-1995 4.3L engines with CPI (Central Port Injection). GM changed the design in 1996 to SCPI (Sequential Central Port Injection)

    The problem with the 1992 - 1995 CPI system found on the 4.3L "W" engines can be traced to a defective fuel pressure regulator. The fuel pressure regulator on the CPI system could not be serviced separately from the fuel distribution "spider" assembly. Dorman Products recognized the problem and introduced a fuel pressure regulator that could be serviced separately from the fuel distribution assembly (spider). Dorman #55162 is a fuel pressure regulator for the 1992-1995 CPI found on the VIN "W" engines . The Dorman 55162 fuel pressure regulator cost $35 but the labor cost will be the same as it would be if you replaced the entire CPI fuel distribution assembly (spider). Replacing the fuel pressure regulator on the CPI will save about $250 compared to replacing the entire fuel distribution assembly.
  • I had the same problem, not sure if this will help but mine was caused by a cracked spark plug.. like you said it sounded like it was gona die and kinda sputtered.. not sure if that is it but i would check the spark plugs
  • could this be the oil pressure unit at the top back of the engine.. i read it will get old and kill the power or something to the fuel pump...
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    Just one ignition cable can cause the ICM (Ignition Contriol Module) to deliver the wrong firing sequence or even stop working until the cable is removed from the source of the ground. For example my friend replaced the spark plugs on my S10 Blazer and did not put the ignition cables properly in the wire looms. One of the cables lay against the hot exhaust manifold and burned through the insulation. When the conductors grounded against the exhaust manifold, it caused the ICM to stop working intermittently but when the wind blew the ignition cable off the manifold, the engine started running properly again. I found the bad cable and put all the cable through the wire looms and the engine never misses a beat. I have since replaced the ignition cables with the correct AC Delco ignition cable kit. If you have lost any of the oroginal wire looms, a new wire loom kit is available. AC Delco 8073 (GM 12073948) for $4.50. Dorman also has the same looms in various assortments of 2, 3 and 4 wire looms under part numbers 40283, 40284, 40286, 40281, 40288, 40289, 40291, etc. If Dorman went to the trouble to manufacture that many different GM wire looms / holders, they must be important parts.


    It is important to make sure the ignition cables are in the wire looms and are in good condition. Ignition cables should be replaced at 30,000 mile intervals along with the distributor cap and rotor. GM sold individual ignition cables for customers who found one or two damaged cables. However, GM stopped that practice and now GM only sells complete ignition cable sets, just like the all the aftermarket suppliers.
  • dgarrett13dgarrett13 Posts: 13
    Have had problems with this blazer since August. I have had it for 9 years and no problem until August 2011. Would go dead when slowing down. Have changed spark plugs and wires, rotor and cap, cam position sensor, thermostat, fuel filter, idle air control, ignition coil, and just last month it would go dead and ses light would flash. Had it towed and they changed the ignition control module. Ran great for about 1 1/2 months. Saturday night drove it and noticed it hesitating during acceleration. It stopped doing that and I got to the store. Got back in 15 minutes later and it started great and ran great. Did not drive it Sunday. Monday morning it would not start. It seemed to try after a couple of tries and just sputtered out. Checked fuel pressure. 60 psi with key on and pump priming. When pump cut off, dropped to 55 psi immediately. So, I have no idea what could be wrong now.
  • dgarrett13dgarrett13 Posts: 13
    Well, while waiting for my husband to get home so we could check the pressure again and see where it is 10 minutes after priming, I decided to try to see if it would start. IT STARTED RIGHT UP!! What's up with that. Oh, I should have mentioned, I was rear ended about 1 month ago. No apparent damage. Wonder if that tripped something. I am baffled!
  • s10man1s10man1 Posts: 1
    take a rubber hammer and hit the gas tank if it starts to run better the fuel pump screen is plugged or pump is going bad need 54 lbs of preshure min 60 ok check fuel preshure 10 to 35 is bad
  • cspeakscspeaks Posts: 3
    I have recently had the fuel Filter replaced and it runs just fine now.
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