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Chevy Blazer Starting and Stalling Problems

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Comments

  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Does it have the heat shield in place? Sounds like a classic case of heat getting to the starter.
  • igmaamigmaam Posts: 4
    We thought of that, but didn't think would apply since the blazer doesn't have headers. We'll have to take a look underneath, thanks for the suggestion.
  • I hv a 2001 blazer, wouldnt start one day and then the next day starts, we replaced cap, rotor, wires, and finally replaced fuel pump even though we could hear it kick in, it just wasnt pressure of 60, more like 15, so i fixed it myself for $240 instead of deal price of $800 and thank god it has been working over a week. I changed thermostat but still heater doesnt always work.
  • rsolersole Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 blazer with 135,000 miles on it that recently started to get sluggish when trying to start it. It sounds like the battery is low. This has happened a few times now but each time I get it home, the voltage at the battery when the engine is running is just over 14 volts and when not running it is 12.6 to 12.8. The connections at the battery are clean and the ground connection is good.

    It will act up (a couple of times I did not think it was going to start) and then start fine for several days or weeks before acting up again. It doesn't seem to make a difference whether the engine is cold or hot.

    To add information, this is the 4th battery I have had in the vehicle. Each time it just suddenly would not start. Never any warning. Also, there has always been a voltage fluctuation. At night I can see a slight flicker in the headlamps, almost like a pulsing, but it never failed to keep the battery charged.

    I basically work out of my truck and can not afford to get stranded. I have been carrying a battery jumper to be safe but if the battery shorts out, as happened before, it will not even start with a jump.

    Any ideas?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Ever replace the starter? The bushings in the starter motor may be worn, causing it to drag and act like the battery is weak. This will also suck the life out of a battery as it has to dump a lot more current in the attempt to get the starter motor to turn.
  • I have a 96 Blazer LS, 156,000 miles, 4WD, 6cyl that runs like a top...when it starts!! 1st issue happened when turning the corner and the truck died and wouldn't start back up. Changed the cap and rotor and ignition mod. Ran great for a couple of weeks! One day didn't start...took the other truck, came home to check for spark, and it started! :confuse: Ran great for a week. Went to start...no such luck! Same situation...took the other truck, came home to check for spark, lots of spark, but this time it didn't start. Towed it to the garage, put it on the charger overnight, mechanic went out checked some of the connections...all seemed fine, then hooked it up to the computer, and the truck started right up!! :confuse: This was the 2nd time being on a computer, the only codes that come up are for a secondary O2 sensor which we know is related to the cat converter and have been told that it has nothing to do with the vehicle starting. So since it was running there wasn't really anything to fix. Drove it home, ran great for 2 days, went to start it this afternoon...NOTHING! Everytime there is spark and fuel. So what ever is going on is intermittent. We have stumped 2 mechanics. We were thinking next, maybe the ignition switch? PLEASE someone...I need some suggestions! Where do I check from here?
    Thanks in advance!

    PS I have a remote starter and we thought maybe it was malfunctioning, so we disconnected it. Not the problem!
  • I have a 1992 chevy blazer. It will start, run for about 5 minutes (until it is warm) then shut off. It will restart after it cools off (20 - 30 minutes). It seems to run fine, until it shuts off. I have replaced the fuel pump. Do you have any suggestions as to what might be the problem.
  • I have a 1992 chevy blazer that will start and run for about 5 minutes, until it gets warm and then stall. It will restart after it cools down, but then stalls again. I have replaced the fuel pump. Do you have any suggestions. Money is tight, and I can't afford to make costly repairs, that won't fix the problems.
    Thanks
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Sounds like a classic coil problem. Check to see if you are getting spark when the engine dies.
  • How much does it cost for a new starter for my vehicle?
  • I just had the starter replaced on my 1993 Blazer, but she is still having a problem starting. It has a 4.3 L V6 Vortec with 191,000 miles. I've been told it could be build up in the injectors, but I've also been told it could be a compression problem. When I start it after sitting overnight I have to spray carburetor cleaner in the intake valve for it to fire. After that it's fine unless it sits longer that 30 - 45 minutes. After that time frame the whole spray to fire process starts again. Can anybody tell me what this problem is so I don't spend a fortune on pointless work and carburetor cleaner???!!!
  • sheps47sheps47 Posts: 9
    I have a 92 S-10 Blazer with a 4.3L. It starts fine most of the time, but every once in awhile it won't start. It acts like the battery is dying. After waiting 10 minutes it will start up fine (without charging the battery). It does it whether or not I've charged the battery or not. Please help.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Could be an intermittent cell in the battery. How old is the battery, and have you checked the voltage on the battery when this occurs? Are the battery terminals clean?

    Easy trick: when the engine won't start, turn on the head lights. If they are dim, you either have a bad battery or connection, probably also at the battery. If they are bright, but dim noticeably when you try to start the car, same thing, either battery or connections.
  • sheps47sheps47 Posts: 9
    I think the battery is pretty old. It has been drained completely twice when the dome light was left on accidentally. The voltage is around 14 when it is running.
    Thanks for the help. I'll check the headlights and see if the battery is the problem.
    Thanks!!!
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Well, if you are seeing 14vdc with the engine running, you know your alternator is working!
  • My '96 would turn over good and only start intermittently...it was the COIL! It was arcing and grounding out to the engine. Would turn over, but no fire! Replace coil and wire and problem all fixed!! It took us replacing all kinds of parts relating to the ignition to find this out!! CHECK YOUR COIL!! If it sparks like a christmas tree...it's no good!!
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Good point. Easy trick is if the car will start, mist water onto the coil and wires. Can get exciting to watch at night, but will tell if the insulation is breaking down. Since you identified this as your problem, I have had a GM mechanic tell me this is a common problem on the 4.3L because the coil wire tends to rub up against a bracket between the coil and distributor cap.
  • kindvaskindvas Posts: 1
    I have had to put in an after market EGR gasket with a screen on a '95 GMC Sonoma and now a '95 Chevy S-10 Blazer because of this same problem. The screen prohibits the chunks of carbon from clogging the EGR valve in the "open" position which in turn allows gas to keep flowing. In both cases, the EGR valve was stuck open because of chunks of carbon lodged in it.

    Just a thought. Good luck!
  • tim6261tim6261 Posts: 2
    My 98 4.3 jimmy starts for a -second -then dies I've replaced the fuel pump mass airflow sencer fuel filters good and check the presser holds at 60 lbs even when starting . If I put gas in throtle body it will run fine hate to send it to a shop plz help...
  • tim6261tim6261 Posts: 2
    My 98 4.3 jimmy starts for a -second -then dies I've replaced the fuel pump mass airflow sencer fuel filters good and check the presser holds at 60 lbs even when starting . If I put gas in throtle body it will run fine hate to send it to a shop plz help...
  • jaymc75jaymc75 Posts: 2
    My 99 Chevy Blazer 4.3L has been stalling out and sometimes not starting, but if I wait 15 to 30 minutes it will start back up. However I can only drive for about 1 mile or so and it will stall out again. If I let it sit for a few hours it will start and run fine for about a week. This has happened 3 times now. I replace the fuel filter and the fuel pump back in October. I replaced the Spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor 3 days ago. What could my problem be?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Could be lot's of things. I assume you are not getting any codes set (Autozone will check for free) but one thing that can cause that symptom is an intermittent crankshaft position sensor. GM has had problems with those things off and on since the late 80's. If the sensor doesn't pick up the magnetic pulses from the crankshaft, the computer thinks the engine is not turning and will shut off the fuel, ignition, or both.

    They aren't cheap, so I wouldn't just change it out, but it is an easy repair. Takes about 5 minutes, tops.
  • elaney1981elaney1981 Posts: 16
    I have a 1998 jimmy I have codes that come up that I know what they mean 0300,0172,0175. My question is after doing the plugs and wires I still have a starting problem and a rough idle. (i cleaned the egr valve) Monro muffler told me that they see these type of symptoms with the jimmys blazers and it is the fuel regulator allowing too much fuel to the spider assembly (while cranking the engine to start i smell alot of fuel) press the gas pedal a bit and it will start. i still get 20 or so miles per gallon. besides a little hesitation after a red light it drives good. what do you all think. thanks for the help in advance
  • bmpgbhbmpgbh Posts: 4
    I go to start my 98 blazer and it runs for a few seconds then dies, have replaced the PCM but it still wont start. Any body have ideas what it could be?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    When you say "flooded" how deep, how long. Water is a nasty thing on electrics. The fuel pump will pressurize the system and allow the car to start, but uses a different method to keep the pressure up. There is a crankshaft position circuit that determines if the engine is turning. An open in that circuit will tell the computer that the engine is not turning and shut off the fuel. Keeps you from having a pressurized fuel system in an accident.
  • bmpgbhbmpgbh Posts: 4
    I had about a foot of water inside the truck, just about up to the front seats. No water got into the engine and is was in the water for about 30min or so.

    So if the crankshaft position circuit is the problem would if be a fuse or a sensor?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    It could just be crud in the connection. The sensor is on the front of the engine down at the crankshaft. Mounts externally and has a three wire harness going to it. This is a very low amplitude signal, so make sure the connection is dry and clean.
  • elaney1981elaney1981 Posts: 16
    Did anyone or does anyone have this problem with there jimmy?
  • bmpgbhbmpgbh Posts: 4
    I cleaned the plug and the connector, still wont run. I did notice that the security light in the instrument panel is staying on all the time. Would the air bag control unit, send a signal to the pcm if it was faulted and thought that the air bags have been deployed? does anybody know what the modual on the passenger side just under the glove box is.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Not sure what that module is, but the Remote keyless Entry module, which I believe also is the security link, is mounted to the backside of the underdash kick panel, just about the emergency brake pedal.
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