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Chevy Blazer Starting and Stalling Problems

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Comments

  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Power seat wiring.
  • larrysbarlarrysbar Posts: 3
    My 95 s10 Blazer is hard to start when cold it can take up to 10 try's (SHORT BURST)but so far always start's
    It seem's to start as the key goes off but sometime it will start first try even after sitting a week
    I changed wires ,plugs ,rotor,cap,fuel and air filter
    Cleaned injectors, rail, MAF,and EGR
    Tested fuel pump and coil
    Always starts warm 1st or 2nd try and runs great
    120k miles on gets 22mpg on a 300 mile trip
    Help
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    The older models have 2 temp sensors and the one for the PCM input for cold start is by the EGR valve so that could be it.
  • jimmy6jimmy6 Posts: 1
    My 2000 GMC Jimmy 4WD automatic will not start on occasion. Car has 96,000 miles. Battery is new. When I try to start engine, all electrical seems to work fine - just no cranking (not even sluggish cranking). NOTE: this problem occurs intermittently! First time it happened last year, I called for a tow but by the time he arrived, the car started just fine (Tow guy checked battery/electrical anyway and said all was fine). No problems for about the next 3,000 miles, then the problem resurfaced yesterday. This time, I moved the shift lever to NEUTRAL and the car started fine. Same problem a few hours later - so I jiggled the shift lever in park and it started right away. So, I'm guessing this is NOT a PASSLOCK problem but rather something to do w/ a safety sensor relating to the shifter. Is there such a device and, if so , how can I verify this - rather than PASSLOCK - is really my problem and is there a sensor/part which I can replace?thank you. Jimmy6
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Transmission has an adjustment on the drivers side and must be in park or N to start so get it done at the shop in about 5 minutes.
  • nmurielnmuriel Posts: 4
    I have a unique problem my 01 S10 Blazer with 113,000 + miles, 6 cylinder. Last year during 90 degree heat my Blazer stalled on me for the first time, it started right back up and we didn’t give it a second though. While I was driving down the road it started to chug while getting up to speed and the bumper to bumper expressway traffic didn’t help this situation at all. After traveling around 100 miles I could barely get the vehicle past 30 mpg so we pulled it in to a gas station where my husband thought it was either water in the gas tank or a bad fuel pump. Vehicle sat while he went in search of a fuel pump. Friend advised that the same thing happened to him down south and that it was the air conditioner that caused our problems. He told us to disconnect the battery wait 3 minutes reconnect the battery and the computer would reset itself to get us home, and to not run the air conditioner. He advised that we needed to change the O2 sensors and some other things and that would fix the problem. It did, and while I work at GM and have engineers at my disposal they all thought I was crazy and said my air conditioner would not have caused this problem.
    Well it happened again yesterday 95+ out side, we had air conditioner on and in stop and go traffic it started to chug and stall. My husband disconnected the battery and we waited but it did not fix the problem. We chugged so much it disconnected the battery and everything went dead. We were able to pull over and try this procedure all over again and it worked this time. We waited longer and it seems to me the vehicle sat for some time before we did it the first time last year. Anyway it still stalled at every light or stop sign so I kept having to put it in to neutral and revved the engine a little to stop the stalling, but we made it home.
    Today it is fine, although it did give me a little hard time starting and I did not run the air conditioner. Basically when this happens tack bounces all over the place, and vehicle stalls when stopping. If vehicle had a carburetor I would tell you the choke was stuck open or closed. My husband is wondering if it is a vapor lock but why would just the air conditioner cause this. I can tell you it does not happen unless it is above 80 and the air is on. Any idea’s as to what is causing this?
  • sfpbcrsfpbcr Posts: 1
    I have workin fuel pump, fuel lines not clogged, new wires, plugs, regulator, ignitors, and something else escaping my memory. I am however the proud owner of the vehicle that has my mechanic telling me to take the headache back after two weeks. He has tried everything he can think of. He has spoken with other mechanics and with chevy dealers. I think pushing it off the side of a mountain sounds like a plan at this point.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Computer tells the idle air control (IAC) valve on the throttle body to step idle up when AC on but if you turn AC off does the idle stablize - if so could be it and the port behind the IAC does get dirty and the IAC is about $75 for the part and I've had them fail intermittently even with AC off and when vehicle goes to idle just stalls and can be restrted, thats usually IAC, but ignition such as cap/rotor/plugs/wires etc needed by 100k. Now could be many other things as temp must be running about 200 or lower or cooling system problem, good fuel pressure tested at the fusl rail, clen fuel filter, air filter, and of course no codes or SES light on.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Hope he tested the fuel pressure key on engine off and min of 58-60 lbs or no cold start on these. Need a scan tool to test all the sensors for an intermittent faults also so try a GM dealer. Dealer can also look at the PCM (computer). If it runs after starting with gas would sure point to pump, filter clogged, regulator, tank connector not getting correct voltage etc.
  • stilestile Posts: 2
    My truck started over heating on the 7th and won't stop no matter how much fluid i put in it. on top of that it won't start without giving it gas and it won't stay started for long without my foot on the gas.

    I have a new fuel filter for it but i don't know how to replace it or even where it is located on the truck can anyone help me?
  • stilestile Posts: 2
    io had a similar problem with my blazer a few time. I know this sounds stupid but try tightening the battery connections. sometimes my connections vibrate loose and i can't seem to tighten them enough to prevent it.
  • nmurielnmuriel Posts: 4
    No when you shut AC off vehicle starts to chug tack bounces all over the place while you are trying to get up to speed and after awhile the vehicle the vehicle will not maintain the speed.
    From another persons point of view it probably looks like I am using a clutch and keep popping the clutch because the car jerks wildly while trying to get it up to speed.
    My husband said we had to replace the map sensor as well as both O2 sensors the first time.
    Why does the combination of extremely hot day and air conditioner cause this issue.
    PS: Had check engine light on for long time, it went off now. Go figure. I am just going to by a horse and be done with it. ;)
  • hi repairdog thanks for the info but my problem is i do not have a power seat my problem was with the wiring harness i believe and that was the part i was hoping to find, hopefully you can help out again thanks,

    cuban
  • bigfoot5bigfoot5 Posts: 1
    I had the same issue with my 01 Blazer and it was the distributor cap and rotor. My truck only had 56K miles but the rotor looked like it had 150K when I opened it up. It’s worth looking at. So much for quality GM parts.
  • david565david565 Posts: 7
    I have a 98 Blazer and understand how to change the fuel filter on it (having the same stalling problems as the earlier discussions - drives fine but when I slow down the car stalls. Had the same problem years ago and had the fuel filter replaced, which fixed it), but how do you release the pressure before you change the filter?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Not really necessary - just slowly lossen the nut end and pressure drops- always drips anyway. Really stupid design and place and I always get gas on the arms and wear safety glasses and be off to one side that helps. Have to remove that one bolt holding the bracket on as the filter always is stuck in the plastic bracket. Enjoy.
  • david565david565 Posts: 7
    Thanks repairdog! Will cover up and go for it!
  • ga_boy1ga_boy1 Posts: 3
    hi,i have a chevy blazer 4.3L..and the other day i was coming home and it lost all power and shut off on me,not your average spit and spudder stall out...just up and shut off,so i coasted to side of road..im wondering what would make it do this?my brother showed me it wasnt getting fire.we bought a coil and still no fire..any suggestions,help ..clues..thanks
  • tommyd2tommyd2 Posts: 2
    I have a 96 Jimmy. Just started stalling out when acelerator is pressed to the floor like its starving for gas. Have a fuel smell in cab as well. Runs perfect otherwise. Changed the fuel filter, ran the codes and get a fuel volume regultor control circuit open and o2 sensor low volts bank one sensor 1... DId notice a time or two back a very loud whine coming from fuel pump. Now it does not do it. The error codes were on for a long time and ran fine... I am leaning towards a fuel pump with the ordor and milage more than sensor and fuel reg. Anyway to quick test?

    Thanks, Tom
  • bigal6bigal6 Posts: 1
    Hi there, I just had the same problem and am trying to figure it out myself. If I do I will let you know. I hope you'll do the same for me. Thanks.
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