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Comments
In my history, there have been two occasions of an intermittent crankshaft position sensor, but at $60, you don't want to swap this one unless you know it is bad. Stores a code, but I can't remember off the top of my head what it was. And if the lamp doesn't come on, the code won't be there anyway.
I have a 1994 Bravada 4.3 CPI Engine - Vin W, 135,000 miles on it. I own the car about 4 and a half years and is used mainly as a 2nd car and in winters. (4 wheel drive vehicle)
THE CAR WON'T START, I CHANGED ALMOST EVERYTHING. THE ONLY THING LEFT IS THE CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR. I WAS TOLD IN QUESTION 182 THAT IT CAN BE FOUND FROM UNDERNEATH THE FRONT PUMPER AT THE 7'OCLOCK POSITION. I SEARCHED HIGH AND LOW, AND I STILL CAN'T FIND IT.
CAN ANYONE PLEASE HELP ME WITH FURTHER DETAILS? I'M GOING NUTS TRYING TO LOCATE IT. MY INSPECTION IS DO NEXT MONTH, AND I'M HOPING TO GET IT GOING BY THEN. MY ORIGINAL QUESTION WAS 181. I ALSO SMELL GAS WHEN I CHECK MY OIL. CAN ANYONE PLEASE TELL ME WHAT THIS MEANS ALSO?
THANKS,
GG1328
That device is the CPS. If it isn't there, you now know why the car won't start!
George
Thanks again,
gg1328
Good Luck!
Engine turns over but won't start..I'm not to much of a mech..But I can swap parts if I know the right direction to go..
Dies this sound like a fuel pump or filter issue? I don't have anyway to test fuel pressure..But if swapping a fuel filter can save me from spending bigger bucks to swap a fuel pump, I will..Or am I looking in the wrong place?
The fuel pressure should be 62 lb. start and 54 lb. running. If there is no pressure or low pressure, it could be :
Fuel pump relay, AC Delco 1550688....$10.11
Fuel filter, AC Delco GF845 ...$13.59
Fuel injection regulator kit, AC Delco 217-3074....$56.87
Fuel pump module kit, AC Delco, 4-door, MU 1064...$372.79
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
That wouldn't hurt but I don't think the transmission would have any effect on starting the truck based on the symptoms you described.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
When I was trying to accelerate on the freeway attempting to pass another car, my RPM needle would jump and then lag back down, then I'd have push the pedal all the way down to get enugh response to pass. Try the EGR valve and get a gasket with the filtering screen on it. This way if you have tons of carbon in your manifold the EGR valve wont get clogged. If you cant afford to buy a new EGR, then try cleaning it but if it's busted, just change it and save yourself some time.
If this doesn't work, get rid of it.
For example, a bad power door lock relay on my 1991 S10 Blazer caused a 8 month old Autolite battery to go completely dead after the car sat for a week without being started and driven. Once a battery goes completely dead it will not take a full charge and should be replaced. I replaced the power door lock relay with a new one from NAPA and I also replaced the dead Autolite battery with a AC Delco 60 month battery. Now the Blazer has no electrical problems.
I also purchased a Beltran 800 ma Battery Tender to connect to the battery in case my Blazer sits again for an extended period without being driven.. If you have a parasitic battery drain of less than 800 ma, the Beltran 800 ma battery tender will keep the battery fully charged no matter how long it sits without being driven. Normal parasitic battery drain is usually no more than 10 ma on a S10 Blazer. A good multimeter can tell you exactly how much parasitic battery drain you car has.
Several things could cause this, a MAP sensor being one of them. Generally speaking, the vehicle has suffered a hard failure and if it is sensor related you should have a code stored.
Other concerns would be jumped timing from a worn timing chain/gear set. Also an ignition issue from the distributor.
These things aren't cheap. See if you can find a buddy with an OBDII scan tool. Autozone will check it for you, but the car has to be at their store and it sounds like that isn't going to happen!
My problem - the Turn Signal arm. There are a bunch of connections on the backside of the arm - if you don't pull it straight out when removing it the horn will honk, etc.... Seemed silly that they wouldn't insulate them more. So, I put some electric tape on the steering column and Dielectric Compound on the connections. Put the key in and it started fine. Turned it off and on a couple dozen times and worked every time. I haven't had the problem since. This was 4 months ago.
I fixed my problem.
Regarding the battery, check the voltage while cranking. I have come across a lot of new batteries lately that have problems, most of them from Autozone. Not a slam against Autozone in particular, but whoever is making their batteries is having problems.
You need a new fuel injection spider, GM upgraded the one that is in your 1999 blazer, to a new spider that has MFI Injectors. It is a direct replacement. All you do is change the whole injector spider as a unit, it has the six new redesigned injectors.
The injector unit that is in your truck now was a bad design, and GM knows that now. They always stick, and quit working after about 150,000 miles.
The new replacement part fixes all issues with this.
Google " GM Part # 12568332 " and you can read all about this.
GM part #
12568332 - MFI Assembly
17113215 - Seal kit
$300 - $400 from the GM dealer.
Less than $200 from www.GMPartsDirect.com
Read the install notes at this link.
http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic559014.htm
My truck runs like new.
Or the map sensor. (Manifold Absolute Pressure)