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Chevy Blazer Starting and Stalling Problems

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  • jaymc75jaymc75 Posts: 2
    My push button 4x4 just stopped working. I checked the fuse in the dash is there another one or some other problem I should know about? It just acts like there is nothing behind the button, it did work a week ago.?????
  • Howdy,

    I need some help really bad!!!!!
    My 2001 Chevy Blazer runs like a champ and can go hundreds of miles when it is cold outside! When it heats up I find that I can go down the higway for miles and it runs just fine but when I come to a stop sign or stop light when it is hot and has been running for a while it will just die I then put it in park and it runs again until I have to stop! I just took it in and they cant find any problems of course, I have a appointment on Saturday for a dealership to look at it but just to take it in it will cost me $110 for them to diagnois and I just lost my job so money is really tight! I am begging for an answer! Thanks
  • mdforemdfore Posts: 1
    I have a 4 door 2002 Chevy Blazer. Last summer I started having problems with the vehicle running hot and shutting off when I would be at a stoplight or stopsign. Shortly after, it began to run hot and shut off while I was driving, over and over and over! It will start back up everytime though. I also have a lot of brown sludge in my radiator, which has been flushed out many times, but it keeps coming back. I got a new radiator cap by suggestion of the man changing my oil, and it seemed to help. However, it wasn't that hot outside until now. Just last week it shut off at a stop light again, and continued to do so my entre way home, except for now it doesn't run hot at all! I'm not sure if the brown sludge and radiator cap are related to this at all. I have no idea what is wrong with my truck!! :mad:
    It will be paid off in 4 months, and I don't want a new car loan...please help if you have any ideas!
  • tchill93tchill93 Posts: 2
    It turns over just fine and then instantly acts as if I have my foot on the gas pressed to the floor and then peters out and dies. No choking or sputtering, just fades quickly to nothing. From turning the key to dying it takes about 3 seconds. The fuel pump was replaced a year ago. This truck sits a lot as it is my second vehicle. My uncle mentioned a valve that gets stuck if it is not used frequently...? (I don't know if it matters that I'm in Minnesota)
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    FUEL FILTER:
    Replace the in-line fuel filter if you have not already recently done so. The in-line fuel filter should routinely be replaced every 10,000 miles.

    TANK:
    When the fuel pump in the fuel tank is replaced, it is recommended that the tank screen and tank wiring harness should be replaced also. Some even recommend that the tank should be removed and cleaned when the fuel pump, harness and screen are replaced. The logic is that fuel pumps must have a reason to fail and if the harness is bad and the screen is contaminated, the new pump will prematurly fail.
  • tchill93tchill93 Posts: 2
    Thanks - is the fuel filter something anyone can do like a thermastat? Also, would the mechanic have replaced the harness and tank wiring automatically? It was about a $400 repair but there was no mention of those things.
    Thanks again.
  • chumdrexchumdrex Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 Chevy Blazer 4.3 engine. Recently changed fuel pump & filter, cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires and coil. Starts fine when engine is cold and drives well. I drive 13 miles to work, when I stop engine, it won't start back up unless I wait about 10 to 15 minutes. Notice an increase in fuel consumption after pump was changed. No SES light and no codes show up on reader. Repair shop is not helpful anymore. The wife is aggravated and so am I. Please Help!!!
  • igmaamigmaam Posts: 4
    We had a similar irritating problem with our old Blazer. Would start fine cold, but not when warm, unless you walked away and left it for 15 minutes or so. It would also start right up with jumper cables. After trying any number of things, we finally replaced the battery. It seems obvious now, but at the time we had been assured the battery was fine. It wasn't and the old Blazer starts fine all the time now.
  • I have a blazer 98 that have problem starting. The instrument panel is not working properly. From time to time the temp and gas gauge will go out and the security, gas and batt. light will go on, sometime will fix itself an the car will start.

    The electromechanic mention that is the Instrument panel Cluster the one causing the problem and I can not get a replacement for it. please assit.
  • gg1328gg1328 Posts: 16
    Hi guys:

    I have a 1994 Bravada 4.3 CPI Engine - Vin W, 135,000 miles on it. I own the car about 4 and a half years and is used mainly as a 2nd car and in winters. (4 wheel drive vehicle) About 3 months ago I was driving from Pa to NY, about 120 miles each way. It is mainly highway driving. I was near my destination on the highway, when it stalled out on me. I pulled over and it started right up. Then after I got off the highway, it started to stall out by every light and stop sign, and again it started right up each time.

    On my way back home about 6 hours later, again it was doing the same thing. Once I got to the highway it ran fine for a about 105 miles. Once I got to my exit on the highway and got off, the car stalled out again. This time it would not start up. So I had it towed back to my house. The next day it started right up. I shut it off and I went to buy new spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor, ignition coil, PCV valve, and fuel filter. I had the fuel pump changed in May of 2005 (about 15,000 miles ago) The fuel pressure is 58 with IOEO. It still does not start. I do not have any engine light on.

    I went to a salvage yard where you pull your own parts. I got a used Map sensor, IAC sensor, TPS sensor, EGR valve, CPI unit and a computer. It was from a vehicle that was in an accident. I changed parts one at a time. It still won't start. I checked the oil, I do smell gas in it. I know that means that there is a leak somewhere. I'm not sure what that means nor how to look for that?

    I also read in your posts that it could be the Crankshaft Position Sensor. I have the Haynes repair manual and it does not mention anything about it. Can any one please tell me where it is and be specific about it and is it hard to change? Can someone also tell me if you could start the car with the Air intake plenum off the car, or does it have to be on and under pressure?

    Thanks for all your help.
    George

    PS. You guys are great! I learn so much from these forums. I feel like I could one day become a mechanic from these forums.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Look from under the front bumper at the underside of the crankshaft, about the 7 o'clock position and you will see it. Has a plug going to it with three wires.

    If you have a hard failure of the CPS, there should be a code set in the computer.
  • gg1328gg1328 Posts: 16
    Thanks for your quick reply, will check it tomorrow. It does not set a code on the computer.
  • I know how it can be...sitting in traffic and have the car refuse to run. I replaced the fuel pump one time and had the same issue reappear after about 30 days...The pump simply did not go on when the key is turned(normally you can hear it charge the fuel line and stop moments after turning the ignition key to the ON position. Well the fuel pump package does recomend replacing the harness and it is normally supplied with the pump...I did this and on the next hot day with the AC running, the car stalled. I could hear the pump charge the system, but the car acted as if it had no spark. It turned over just fine...just would not start. Then after about 15 minutes, it fired up no problem. IT IS THE FILTER. From 2000-2003 GM had an issue with the fuel filters causing the pump to register a charged line and subsequently shut off before the injector actually had enough pressure to send a supply into the engine cylinder. So it acted electrical when the problem is a clogged in line fuel filter. A $16.00 fix and it runs just fine now. GOOD LUCK tchill93.
    Glenn
  • Oddly enough...it may be the inline fuel filter...the pump is charging the system to what it thinks is full...then shutting of. If the filter is clogged, the pump does not know the injectors don't have enough pressure..because the pressure is between the in line filter and the tank...
  • It's just the inline fuel filter...$16.00 at any auto parts store...the part is located just under the drivers seat on the frame rail.
  • I had a similar problem with my 1997 Blazer a couple of years ago. I took it to a dealer (bad mistake). They told me it was the crank sensor $500. Wrong. I took it to a local mechanic. It was the ignition switch (not the key switch). Change this and you shouldn't have any more problems. Also take it to a local parts store to see if your computer shows bad computer codes. This service is free.
  • Have a local mechanic look at your ignition switch.
  • I have a 97 Blazer and it won't start unless you pour gas into the carburetor. It will then run but when you cut it of it won't start again unless you pour the gas into the carburetor again. Like today we did that and let it run for about two hours in the driveway and it sounded great but as soon as we cut it off that was it. We changed the fuel filter and we can hear the fuel pump coming on when you turn the key. And another thing it has been doing is cutting off when you start to slow down to stop or make a turn. It doesn't do it every time but it does do it a couple of times after you first start to drive it. If anyone has had this happen or has any ideas of what the problem could be please let me know. Thanks!
  • lanarlanar Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 blazer and on hot days the truck will run for a while then starts shutting off. It will restarts but then in about 15 min. it will die again. I don't know what it is . It acts like the fuel pump isn't working right but you can here it prime and you can here it run. I've replaced the fuel filter and the relay . I acts like it's got something to due with the temp. Like something is getting to hot and kills the truck. I'm losted on this one i've had it looked at and they say nothings wrong with it. So can someone please help me my two kids ride in the truck and its getting really bad.
  • I already have a post #189 and I haven't gotten any response to it. I need some help bad. As I had said in my first post, I have a 97 Blazer and it won't start unless you pour gas into the carburetor. It will then run but when you cut it off it won't start again unless you pour the gas into the carburetor again. Like today we did that and let it run for about two hours in the driveway and it sounded great but as soon as we cut it off that was it. We changed the fuel filter and we can hear the fuel pump coming on when you turn the key. And another thing it has been doing is cutting off when you start to slow down to stop or make a turn. It doesn't do it every time but it does do it a couple of times after you first start to drive it.Today we checked the fuel line we can see that the fuel is moving from the tank to the motor but then it stops and will not go to the carburetor. Please if anyone could help I would appreciate it. I need to get this fixed asap!
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