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Chrysler Pacifica Starting and Stalling Problems



  • i rebuilt me alternator about 6 months ago and have not had a problem sense everyone tells me that could not be the problem and well so far its worked great for me. im not trusting any one that tells me im wrong because guess what no one has done it. all the problems i was having are now gone :P i even forgot about this problem until i got an email a few days ago. if anything happens i will post on here again but for 6 months it has not happened and i have put over 10,000 miles on sense made lots of long trips for work out of state. before i rebuilt it was stalling almost every week. so just try rebuilding the alternator for about $80 if they are selling bad alternators dont go buy a new one. take it to a small shop and have it rebuilt there auto zone and all them will send it back to a dealer and have it rebuilt there. i feel they have bad parts so i would never take it to them.
  • no start at all after shutting off doing 65 mph on the highway and getting it towed to my home,whts the problem i need help
  • My old car actually always started right back up. I took it to the mechanic several time and since it wasnt doing it for them they never did figure it out. I almost wrecked doing 50 on a back road with my kid in the car and scared me half to death so I traded it in and have had my new car for a month now! And it NOT a pacifica. So glad to me rid of that headache. GOOD LUCK TO YOU
  • You are not alone my 2006 stalls. I have had all of the mounts changed, sensors, catalytic converter, gear shift mechanism etc.... I use to love my car but I've just had too many problems. My mounts needed changing at 40,000 miles. I'm driving and the car just stalls. Its scary. Someone mentioned it could be the fuel pump.
  • all i did was rebuild my alternator and it has been working great for 7 8 months now no more stalling for me :shades:
  • sysebosysebo Posts: 2
    Hello, forum. My frustration level with my PAC is at its boiling point. I have had multiple problems, each of which are so complex I can't fix it without going to the shop. This time is no different.

    When the temperature is hot outside, my car will not turn over - at all. No clicking, no noise, complete silence. I turn the key in the ignition switch all the way to the right, and I have to either apply so much pressure to get a response that my key may break (it is already bent) or I have to open all the windows and doors and allow the inside of the car to "cool down" before trying again. This can take anywhere between 15 minutes and a half hour. In winter it isn't as bad, and I can get it started better if I park the car under shade or inside a covered garage area, but even it is getting worse.

    How would inside car temperature affect the ability to turn over the engine? Is it my ignition switch?
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Certainly sounds like the switch. Remember that everything expands in heat, albeit to different levels depending on the material. This includes the gaps between the components - when you have a tight jar lid, you run hot water on it to loosen it... the heat expands the metal lid more than the glass jar, and results in a larger gap, making the lid easy to open.

    Something in the switch mechanism may be damaged just enough to not allow proper operation during that heat expansion.

    kcram - Pickups/Wagons/Vans+Minivans Host
  • I was wondering what tsb was because I'm having the same problem with my pacifica. I replaced the plugs, map sensor and evap selanoid. How is your car doing
  • It ended up being a damaged ignition switch. A plastic piece broke off deep inside of it. When it heated up outside, the broken piece would expand, causing difficulty to turn it. Tried to fix it and disabled the starting mechanism. Cost about $650 to replace. :(
  • bdrobsbdrobs Posts: 1
    I know this post is alittle older but we had the sameissueand replaced the EGR Valve and it has seemed to fix the problem
  • My 2007 Pac dies in reverse, every time. It makes it touchy getting out of a parking place. I have to put it in park and restart it. It started doing this last year. (I have put 180,000 miles on it since I bought it.) Now, it has a problem starting. The battery is ok: it can be jumped- but for no reason, it dies overnight. Doors are shut, lights are off, but it dies. Also, the heat quit coming on. Blower comes on, AC ok, but no heat. It has been a good car, I would like to finish driving it, but if anyone has had these problems and fixed them, let me know what you did. This sounds like something electrical, maybe. I would like to try the cheap fix first.
  • Eureka!!!! Your problems are solved.. If your having shuttering problems, problems with your EGR, idle air control, throttle positioning sensor, car not turning over, car acting erratically or dying out and even transmission issues such as going in limp mode not switching gears... It is in 2 places the wire harness!!!!
    1) Under the tire well above the dog bone for suspension is a Negative or ground cable bolted to the transmission this sometimes comes loose and will prevent your car from starting or even turning over.. There is also a harness that passes over this bolt which will rub out on the back side in time.. This will cause problems in the egr, i.a.c., t.p.s and Ats.... Fix the wire fix the problem
    2) if you open your hood under your battery not directly but down low youll see your solenoid packs and other transmission sensors follow these to the thicker wire harness down to wear it almost touches the frame and meets other wire harnesses... The back side of this "crossroad" rubs up against some kind of flange on the transmission with bolt holes in it.. This is the problem with transmission issues in the 2004 Chrysler Pacifica 3.5l.. Fix the wire fix the problem!!! I spent alot of money on parts to figure out this simple easy cheap fix.. Make sure to reinforce protection in the back of theose wires during fix.. Hope i save dyou some
  • I have now located the problem that everyone is having. People bring cars to me when they cant figure things out with them. I am what most people call a trouble shooter. I just finished up a Pacifica, (that was brought here from the dealer!) with the stalling problems and the not wanting to start sometimes. Stalling while driving and turning and those problems are linked to one source. Here is your fix people. Listen up. Jack up the car and remove the front drivers tire and passenger front tire. Remove the inner fender of both sides so you can successfully remove the bumper as well. Now remove your windshield washer jug and you are ready to fix your problem. Now you should see a black box behind where the washer reservoir was attached. Going into this black box is 4 different plug ins with about 15 wires or so in each. Hard to miss it. Now, call it faulty engineering or whatever, but these plug ins do not want to stay connected and fully seated in the respective slots. I can seat them and press the secondary red tabs down and it still did not want to stay connected. So, I took a 5-6 inch piece of flat metal about the thickness and width of a paint stick stir. On the third plug down is a few notches that stick up. I cut them down so my metal bar layed flush with all four plugs. I strapped a ratched strap around the center of the PCM and on top of my bar that was forcing all four plugs in at once and ratched til all plugs were fully seated. Dont break your freaking computer now, just seat them. I then took 2 heavy duty zip ties and put on around the ecm and my flat bar so when I remove the strap the zip ties stay and hold my bar in place. Now put the rest of the car back together. Loose connections on the PCM seem to be the issue. Fixed this one anyway.
  • huffy08huffy08 Posts: 1
    Had issue with 07 Pacifica Touring not starting when key fully turned. It was sporadic and seemed worse when it was hot out. Saw many possible solutions and tried them all. Cleaned battery terminals, cleaned cable at starter and re-attached, installed an additional ground cable to battery using 8 gauge wire then connected to frame, sprayed half a can of WD40 into ignition switch, still nothing. Checked starter relay contact points and voltage, tried another relay and a jumper, all were good. Kicked the car a couple of times, still didn't work. Removed the ignition tumbler and cleaned it as best as possible. Eventually I removed the ignition assembly and checked the "IGNITION SWITCH ACTUATOR PIN" BINGO!!!! The actuator pin has two metal arms that extend on either side of the white plastic pin. With time, the metal will fatigue and crack. Because it cracks, it stays in place and will allow the key to work sometimes and not work others. By wiggling the key as you turn it will allow the car to start, but eventually with time, the arm will separate and the key will eventually become harder and harder to start. This might not be the answer to your problem, but its a good place to start. The part was only $26.45 at (Dorman 924-739 Ignition Switch Actuator Pin) and I found a video on youtube on how to remove the ignition tumbler. It is only a few extra steps to remove the actuator pin and any shade tree mechanic should be able to do in about an hour with tools you'll find in any tool box.
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