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Chrysler Pacifica Starting and Stalling Problems

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  • tizlamtizlam Posts: 12
    thanks, I am with you , I wont by another chryser either, the dealer's try's to do everything to the car while under warrenty that doesnt need to be done , and the problem you take it there for doesnt get fixed, I still have both front ends clicking whenever i make a right or left turn, click ,click,click, they claim they replaced the front end bull!!!, thanks again I will try that next time it acts up ..
  • tizlamtizlam Posts: 12
    yeah I havent, I am going to take it to the dealer soon, it seems from this board they know full well there is a problem, I have 15,000 miles left b4 the warrenty is over , everytime I start the car I am scared its not gonna turn over, and everytime I make a hard left turn or right turn all you hear is clicking from the front ends, the dealer claimed they replaced it thats bull, its not gonna be pretty when I get back to the dealer..
  • I OWN A 06 PAC & IM HAVIN STARTIN PROBLEMS 2 IT SEEMS THE CAR STARTS FINE A FEW DAYS OR A WEEK THEN IT STARTS THE CLICKING AGAIN IT SOUNDS LIKE IT COULD BE THE STARTER BUT WHEN IT DECIDES TO STOP DOIN IT IT STARTS JUST FINE LIKE NOTHING IS WRONG.SO I TRIED TIGHTING THE STARTER WIRE THAT WORKED FOR AWHILE BUT IT ALWAYS START DOING IT AGAIN SOMETIMES IT TAKES 5 MIN TO START THE CAR CLICK 5 MIN . THEN IT WILL START AS IF NOTHING IS WRONG.ITS A MISTERY
  • blueflame1
    no mysteries there. You have a bad batterie cell. I had the exact same problem (see one of these posts).
    The clicking is heard every once in a while and it usually click in sick with the lights flickering.

    Sometimes it will work just fine. Sometimes, it won't. I changed the batterie 18 months ago and it never happened again.

    Good luck.
  • WELL BELEIVE IT OR NOT I SKIPPED ALL OVER THE STARTER BECAUSE MY PACIFICA STARED SO NORMAL WHEN IT DID. BUT IT WAS THE STARTER THAT CAUSED MY PROBLEM.I CHANGED IT AND I HAD NO PROBLEM SENSE I HOPE THIS FIX YOUR PROBLEM TOO. I DIDNT THINK IT WAS THE STARTER AT FIRST BECAUSE IT ALWAYS STARTED SO NORMAL WHEN IT DID BUT I WAS WRONG.
  • I can't believe this, I had the same problems as a lot of you, my pacifica seemed to be dead 15 min after i parked, and had flickering and stuttering when it tried to start, but with just a little help it kicked on. So after a month of letting it sit and waiting for some $ to take it in for a diag. we find out a week later its the battery cables that are corroded and the corrosion spread throughout the wiring harness under the engine and they have to replace the whole harness, not just the cables!!! So i whip out my "platinum extended warranty" and lo-and-behold, its not covered, as corrosion is preventative maintenance. so now i'm stuck with a $2,000 bill to pay before they will get to the rest of the car problems, which are 1. No heat, 2. Pass. seat will not adjust (motorized) and 3. Transmission will not shift through gears... i've had so much work done on this thing and it only has 50K miles on it.. its a 2004. I wish i never bought the thing.l :lemon:
  • I have a 2004 pacifica. About 1 month ago I started having the problem with starting the car. It would act like it was going to start, then die. After a few tries it would catch and start, to run just fine. Took it to dealership. they said the code was for not recognizing the key. They were very nice, fiddled with some wires, could not duplicate the problem. Worked fine for about 3 days. Car would not start but lights, radio, etc worked fine. The dealer had me go to another Chrysler place better equiped to handle problem. The new place had it for 2 days, charged me 90.00$ for the dx. Wiggled wires, sent me on my way. Happened again. back to same dealer. They kept car for 3 days, wigggled wires, drove it around, no duplication to be had. Drove it for 7 days working just fine. Drove on a 3 hour trip.. and stopped 2 times with no problems. Arrived at destination. Car sat for about 4 hours and then would not stay started. Had to keep foot on throttle to keep it running. If I let go it would die. Tried to drive it in the parking lot just to see if it would snap out of it. Oil light came on then flickered off. I left car in lot until next morning, with the same results. HAD TO LEAVE the car there and go home! They towed it to a chrysler dealership down the block . They have experienced the problem a few times, but have no idea what to do with the car. They say the only codes so far are the ones for not recognizing the keys. They have had my car for over a week. No end in sight. Any thoughts. I am getting very concerned about the fact that there are a lot of problems similar to mine that I have read about here, and no solutions. They service guys have been very nice, they just do not know what to do.
  • Well, after a few weeks searching and trying to find an alternative solution to the dealerships dx, I decided to just go in and talk to the service tech. I told the guy, I just cant afford to toss $2K into this thing after 2 recalls and a few different service problems just to get to the next problem, so he went back to his mechanic and they talked for a few minutes and he came back and said the mechanic can just cut off the ends of the battery cable and replace the corrosion... ??? why didn't they just say that in the first place? it seems like they could have given me that option in the beginning and been done by now.. but no. SO, they did that fix and came to the conclusion that the seat and heater problems are not related to the starting issue and that apparently was fixed by the battery cable replacement. Apparently the heater is a common issue and covered by my warranty as is the front pass. seat... so I was able to talk them down to $420 in the end for the labor and parts to do the battery cables.. but am now waiting on the parts to get in for the heater and seat. the transmission was acting up due to a low amount of ATF, which i discovered on my own after thinking about it for a few days... :S duh. but why would ATF even get low if this thing is run at normal speeds and not pushed to extremes? i have a honda element and before a toyota corrola and before that a ton of newer cars, all of which never had the trouble of loosing ATF... it doesnt make sense to me. anyways, problems solved at this point, Until Next Time...
  • jtg61jtg61 Posts: 43
    I had a 05 Pacifica 3.8L with the same problem you've described. I would start it but the engine wouldn't stay running. I would have to keep the accelerator pressed down to keep the engine running. Thankfully I have a competent service department and they fixed it quite easily. It was the throttle assembly that was sticking. They took it apart and cleaned all the [non-permissible content removed] off it and lubricated it. Apparently the throttle assembly needs to be cleaned periodically, like every 15k or so. They also loaded the onboard computer with an update for this problem. I would think your dealer would be familiar with this issue. My check engine light didn't come on and I didn't get a code. Not all problems are going to have a code. I can't believe your maintenance dept couldn't troubleshoot this without a code? Do an internet search on the trottle issue. You'll find some additional information.
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    Your problem probably is with Idle Air Valve.

    The throttle that you control with the foot pedal closes all the way when you take your foot off. For the engine to run idle it needs air thru another route and this is done with an Idle Air Valve. When your engine runs while keeping throttle open by foot pedal but stalls when you take your foot off it means that your engine is not getting air.

    Older engines used to have an idle adjustment screw for the throttle but with changing engine loads there had to be separate adjustments for example having the A/C on. There used to be a plunger that pushed throttle more open wnen A/C compressor came on.

    Now engine speed is monitored by the computer and idle speed is maintained by the Idle Air Valve.

    I have not had any problems with my Pacifica so I do not know how to change the valve but looking at it, it is quite easy job.

    Idle Air Valve is most likely that cylindrical part mounted on the throttle body just before the air intake opening. In my Pacifica the electrical connection points towards rear of the car.

    As your problem seems to be somewhat intermittent your problem could be just a corroded loose connection of the wire harness. The fix for this is to disconnect the wire harness for a few times, i.e. rub the corroded lead surfaces to get better connection.

    It could also be that you need a new Idle Air Valve. The valve opening is controlled by a small step motor and over time this motor just goes bad and the fix is to have it replaced.

    It is not very expensive part. I replaced it once on my RAM truck and the part was only like $70 or something like that. Of course labor will cost but I did it myself so I don't count cost for..

    If you are at all a mechanically inclined you could do this yourself.

    If after explaining how your engine starts and runs if you keep throttle open by foot your dealer did not know where to look you need to find another dealer shop. This is a prime example how stupid some dealer car services have become. They only check for codes and if there is no code they do not know what to do. Idle Air Valve will not give a code unless the connection fails completely, i.e. if the step motor stops moving but circuit is not broken there is no code.

    Arrie
  • svb1111svb1111 Posts: 2
    I am so glad I found this site and read every single concern. My 04 Pacifica with 97,000 miles started having problems a few days ago. It's been wonderful till now. I would try to start it and I would just get a woo woo woo then nothing. All the dashboard lights worked and the dinging was there though. It would usually start the second time but if it didn't I would have to wait 15 min. or so to try again. Again would not start on the first try but would on the second try. When I took it to my "new" mechanic (since I am now out of warranty) the first thing I asked him to check was the wiring to the battery since a lot of people wrote that it was their cure. I was there for this and sure enough the negative cable at transmission ground by left front drivers wheel (his words) was corroded to the point where there was 1 itty bitty wire left. That's why once it got warmer after a few tries it wouldn't start at all and I would have to wait the 15 min.
    I just wanted to say that yesterday I drove my car to his shop and told him my problem. He immediately said it was the starter. $300. Thankyou to everyone who took the time to post their solutions. It cost me $35 and I am crossing my fingers that I don't get the stalling etc. problems that some of you are experiencing. I am so sorry that there has been no solution to your problems. BEEN THERE
  • cartmcartm Posts: 1
    I am very pleased with the thought and don’t feel like adding anything in it. It’s a perfect answer

    cartmellauneas

    Car Rentals
  • 68_bullitt68_bullitt Posts: 4
    I have a 2004 Pacifica that has had sporadic issues with starting in the rain, although we haven't had any problems for some time. When we had problems, the car would typically crank but not start.

    It has approximately 86K on it. This week, my wife drove it home from work, it poured down rain and now it is dead. I did verify that the battery was bad. This has been replaced with a new one. Now, when the key is turned on (tried both keys), the immobilizer light on the nav control panel comes on. No dash lights, can't shift out of park, no radio. Power locks and keyless works, but no horn chirp to verify security set. Interior lights, heater control and blower still work, but the outside temperature shows up as "--". Since the immobilizer light is on, I suspect that the car no longer recogizes the keys and needs to be reprogrammed. Anyone else have this problem?
  • merramimerrami Posts: 9
    Hey
    Does you car work when it is not raining? Does it work after it dries up?
    I doubt this is the key. I have a non electronic key for my car (to keep a spare copy in case I loose all of the electronic ones). I can start my car with it, but it stops after 2 seconds.
    It sounds to me like you have a short somewhere. The water may be getting to some place in your wires or circuits.
  • svb1111svb1111 Posts: 2
    I know you said you replaced the battery (that's what they wanted to do for me too) but did they check the other end of the battery cables? I had a similar problem (2004, 90,000 miles) and after reading all the posts on this site I finally asked the "mechanic" to check and sure enough the cable was all corroded and only firing on a few that were not. He said that it was a flaw in the design because the road salt easily affects it because of the location. Good luck
  • brustermbrusterm Posts: 2
    My Pacifica has 130k miles and I'm now having problems starting. It only has trouble when it is cool outside with dew on the grass. When I turn the key, it does nothing. The battery is fully charged. If I leave the key in the ON position for about 5-10 minutes, then try to start again - it works. It's like something has to warm up?? A mechanic friend told me it is likely the neutral ignition switch and it would be $500 to replace!!! Why is is $500 or more to do ANY work on this car. But after reading postings on this site and others, I'm inclined to check the battery cables for corrosion.
  • tobeahalltobeahall Posts: 5
    We have had our 2004 Pacifica for a little more than a year. A few weeks after have our car we begun to have starting problems. We took it back to the dealer they kelt it for 2 days, the car would not duplicate. Soon as I drive it away made a stop at the store about 5 miles it start to have the problem again. Finally after many tries it wouldn't start for the dealer. They said it was a wire that was not ground and it should be ok., here we are a year later problem back.Now it's happen more often. I have to. the tow truck so much they known me by my voice. lol. This is the crazy part.....the car will not start where ever it might stop but, as soon as it came off the tow truck it starts right up.Some times the tow truck guy can just move it to get it ready for towing and the car will start.When this happen I notice that...... it say the car is not in park. If I push the button for the seat setting it will read"memory is disable,car not in park".Now if I play around with the gears 8 out of 10 times it might start. It had 4 trips to the Chrysler Dealer with no success. The computer don't read any code.Can anybody HELP!!!!...............I don't want to trade my car in but I will if we can't solve this problem. :confuse:
  • texan9texan9 Posts: 4
    I have a 2004 Pacifica with 87k. It has been in the repair dealer shop three times this year. The first time I was told I need a PCM. Replaced that April. Less than a week the engine light came on. Reset. June stopped dead in the street. Started went about two miles stopped at light. Went home about 40k without incident. At dealership as of this posting. I was told on Friday that I need a engine harness at a cost of 2700. Any suggestions? Thank you.
  • Mine is fine now. In my research when I was having my problems, it seems that these cars tend to corrode the negative battery terminal very frequently. Mine needs to be cleaned all the time. This corrosion could be damaging the end of the negative battery cable. In addition, there is a ground low on the driver's side of engine that is exposed to salt in northern climates, I have heard that this can be another place that could cause a harness failure (mine was fine). While a new harness will fix the problem, it should be possible to solder a new end to replace the damaged areas.

    If they tell you that the entire harness is being replaced due to a bad battery or engine ground, you should request that they just replace the damaged areas by soldering and shrinking a new piece on. If they are just replacing the harness without knowing exactly why to the tune of $2700, I'd find a different dealer or find a good independent mechanic.

    Good luck.
  • texan9texan9 Posts: 4
    Thank you 68 bullitt. I drove my car home today about 12 miles. It stopped twice once at a light and when I was turning into a dealership to try and trade it. I was so upside down it could not be done. Drove home. Engine light on. Drove it about fifteen minutes ago. Did not have a prblem until I stopped again, The engine light flashed and went off. I turned on the air and had the radio on. Took me about five minutes to start it again. I am afraid to drive it. I am going to take it to several shops to see what it would cost to replace the engine harness. Do you think that the engine harness is really the problem or the battery or can they just replace the wires without too much trouble that are causing me this headache? Thanks to you and everybody that answers.
  • A bad ground could cause those problems. However, the flashing check engine light is a good indicator that you have a significant problem. If the light is illuminated, you typically have a emissions related failure that will not affect the car's ability to drive -- like an O2 sensor. If it flashes, there is something more significant wrong that requires immediate attention. The car stores codes for the reason the check engine light is on and will tell them which component is providing a fault. The fact that your Check Engine light came on is a good thing. The car will tell the mechanic what is wrong with it. The check engine light will not come on for an engine harness, but a bad connection within the harness gives the tech a good clue as to why your car is having problems. Any good mechanic will use an OBD-2 tool to determine why the Check Engine light was flashing and work from there. For that matter, Autozone or Advance Auto Parts will scan your car for free and print out the stored codes. Once you know the faults, you will be better prepared to decide which mechanic you find to fix it. It could be anything, but things like the MAF sensor or something in the fuel injection system, or even those grounds could cause problems that you are seeing. It could be the harness, but a good tech should be able to tell you what is wrong with it. Good luck.
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    Your car is telling you what the problem is. It is not in park.

    It is a very important safety interlocking that the car will not start, i.e. won't even turn engine over with key in start position if gear selector is not in park OR neutral. Obviously you have an issue with park/neutral switch not reading park or neutral when you are trying to start it.

    It also makes perfect sense that when tow truck guys just move it for position to tow it away it suddenly wants to start. This is because the park / neutral switch is so very close to work and moving the car gives it a "bump" and helps the switch in correct position to be able to start the car.

    You could try to move your gear shifter to neutral position next time it will not start in park position. Also, as you mention playing around with gears helps 80% of time it is a clear indication of the park / neutral switch problem.

    When you take your car to a dealer they easily tell you that you need a new switch. Well, this most likely is not needed but can be the case. Park / neutral switch in cars that I have worked with have adjustment built into it. It most likely is that your switch needs an adjustment made to it so that it is aligned properly with gear shifter in park position.

    Arrie
  • 2005 Pacifica : Read all the suggestions listed. Called to have tow truck come. Told mechanic what was possible causes. Car fixed and on the road quickly. Problem: Loose wire at the starter making poor contact. ( Just another thing to look for - Overall, this is the first problem in 4 years we have had with this car. ( 40,000 miles and enjoying this car ! )
  • texan9texan9 Posts: 4
    68_bullitt thank you again for your reply I took my car to a second mechanic and he found six bad codes. The ignition coils. Now today I have my car at a third mechanic. This morning when I drove it stalled and I turn off the key and started it right back. The oil light went off but the check engine light is still on. Thank you for your help.
  • No problem. If your check engine light is still illuminated and not flashing, it isn't something that urgent, however, if the coils are bad and not firing the plugs properly, this could start a chain-reaction of codes. So as an example, if this happens, it could throw a code for the O2 sensors. Once the first problem is fixed, it is likely a few of the other codes could go away. A good honest mechanic should be able to fix it. Too bad you aren't in Cincinnati. We have a very honest family friend with a shop who would treat your right. Good luck getting it fixed.
  • tobeahalltobeahall Posts: 5
    Could not get the car to start from Tuesday to Wednesday. Had to tow it back to the dealer I got it from ( which is not a Chrysler dealer ). The car still did't start. They gave the car a jump... it started. So they said I just need a new battery then it would not start again.They put the car up on the wrack and saw that it needs motor mounts. So, this is their diagnosises.......the motor is shifting on take off,which is pulling the wires apart. Thats why the computer is not reading the gears correctly ( not in park,vehicle memory disable....etc ). Which made the car not start, then when it was tow or moved about the wires would touch then it would read correctly then start. :surprise: Hopefully problem solved... I will update you'll when it get out the shop.Fingers Cross!!
  • madmommamadmomma Posts: 4
    It's the wire that goes from the engine to the transmission. We spent about 6 months and a few thousand $ trying to get it fixed. Finally my husband and his uncle figured it out. I think it's called the ground wire or cable... Not one problem since we replaced it.
  • tobeahalltobeahall Posts: 5
    The car is out of the shop and running good. We didn't pay an arm and an leg, it was only in the 500 hundred range. I hope this helps somebody, good luck. I will keep you'll updated. ;)
  • lashalllashall Posts: 3
    I am having the exact problem and no one can tell me what the problem is. Please tell me what they did. Was it a ground wire as said in the posting before your update. I could really use your help. I am a single mother and i have replaced the battery and the starter. I have been told to change the ignition switch, change the idle air control valve. I don't know what is next. Please help. I am afraid to drive it. :cry:
    thank you.
  • tobeahalltobeahall Posts: 5
    Did you read my post # 217 ? It tells what the problem was and what they did to fix it. What is your car doing?
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