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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Suspension and Ride

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Comments

  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    GM has been known to install the cheapest tire and shocks cause these are things that you don't notice. Also it takes some time for the springs and suspension to break in though not much. What I suggest is that changing your tires and shocks will give you a substantially better ride then again you need to figure if its worth it on a new truck.

    Because I'm picky about tires and stuff, I've changed mine out when the truck had less than 3K miles and sold them to a worker who had the same model but much higher mileage. I agree with you when I test drove the 2wd it had a substantially better ride than the 4wd.
  • bill173bill173 Posts: 1
    The above is my Wife's vehicle. I drove it the other day and when driving over anything - such as a speed bump - the vehicle does the "bouncy bouncy bouncy" thing that's associated with blown shocks (even at slow speeds).

    Took it to the dealership's service department and they said "it's just the nature of the '06" and that "there's nothing wrong with the suspension".

    I say nonsense and went to the General Manager of the dealership - who got the Service manager to ride with me - he sort of agreed with the service foreman but said they'd keep the truck and check it out further.

    I know there's something wrong and not just "something inherent with that year".

    Anyone else had problems similiar ? Thanks - Bill
  • i have a 2005 chevy stepside, regular cab, and i have 20"`s on it, it drives kind of bad, the rear shakes a lot when i drive at 60-70 miles, any good shocks u could recommend me???

    thanx
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Bilstein HD
  • so they will fix my problem? has anyone else had that problem? i have 1 2004 and 1 2005 of thoese trucks and they have that problem, is it because the bed is so light?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    You asked for a good shock. I answered Bilstein HD. As far as your problems it seems that it started with the installation of those 20s. Tried rotating the tires front to back to see if the problem moves to the front? Vibrations are usually caused by tire balancing. Have you tried having it done by a load variance balancer?

    If you look at your rear spring pack do you have two leafs? That in itself could be an issue. But I'd go back to the rims for vibrations.
  • herlemanherleman Posts: 1
    I'm new here and trying to find infor. I used search and got no definitive response.

    My 2005 C1500 regular cab V6 5 spd has what sounds like a shock absorber rattle in the left front suspension. It started at about 28K miles and at 29K it is getting progressively worse. I've inspected everything and find nothing suspicious looking.

    I'm told that ther is a TSB on a shock absorber bushing that corrects a shock misalignment issue. I'm told that replacing the shock will not help.

    Can anyone direct me to the proper TSB or offer other advice. I'm getting worried that something critical is about to break.

    Thanks
  • i have the same issue. bouncy front end and a "clunk" on rt frt when hitting the smallest of bumps. have replaced tires and shocks, all factory. what did you find?
  • did you get rid of the clunk? I am curious since I am having the same thing on a 2000 silverado 4.8 litre 2wd.
  • not yet. it happens on bumps. sounds like control arm or shock mounts. cant imagine this being normal. let me know what you find
  • gkitegkite Posts: 11
    Check out the intermediet shaft on the steering column. I have a Chevy 1500HD and I have replaced mine 2 times, getting ready to replace again. Supposably they have finaly redesigned it, and it's not supposed to fail. It is a known problem, check with GM.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Bump Clunk bump clunk...replace the intermediate steering shaft with part no. 19153614. Part updated 3/07. Simply amazing took GM only 8 years to revise the part affecting millions of trucks.
  • I have a 2008 Chevrolet Silverado z71 4x4 with a 1.5'' leveling kit, but it's not completely leveled out perfectly. Could I raise my torsion keys up an inch to make it completely leveled out or is that not possible?
  • ntsmith69ntsmith69 Posts: 5
    does the spindle and drive axle.tie rod, have to removed to gain acces to remove the lower ball joint. and it says that these are pressed in. but looking at the top of it there is no way it can be pressed down. it still has the factory joint. are they rivited on and thats why i can not break the seal. lol i beat on it with a pickle fork but didnt budge.

    the upper and lower ones i bought look like ford ones and are a pressed in type, with a snap ring on the top. but the ones on the truck have a large cap and looks like i rivited on or a replacement one would bolt on.
  • Hello,
    I crawled under my 2000 Silverado 2500 Ext. 8 Ft bed yesterday to change my shocks. Starting at the rear drivers side I noticed that the bracket that attaches the shock to the frame was broken. The bracket looks to be rusted and Im sure most of the rust is from the truck spending alot of its life up north. Upon futher inspection all other shock brackets look fine its just the drivers side rear top bracket that attaches to the frame. The million $ question is will I have to fab a new bracket or is there a place to buy this.
  • pz82pz82 Posts: 1
    I have an 09 chevy 2500HD and just put a plow on it. I want to make sure the plow mount doesn't hit the curbs when plowing. Is it best to add a leveling kit or can I crank up the torsion bars? How hard is either option to do?

    Thanks
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Cranking the torsion bars are definitely the more economical way to go. Course you may not care for how the truck rides and handles after doing so. Make sure you have the truck aligned if you choose this option.
  • I have a 2001 silverado 4x4, 5.3, LS, extended cab, shift buttons on the dash. When I get up to speed on the highway 50+, the truck makes alot of noise, similar to tire noise. Changed tires, now have MIch. Cross Terrans on it, still have the noise, turn the wheel some to the right, noise goes away, changed the wheel bearing, still have the noise, have been told it could possibly be in the rack or power steering pump. I feel this in the wheel as well. The person who told me about the ps pump told me to change out the fluid in the pump and put in the lucas oil ps fluid and then top it off with new fluid recommended by gm and drive it. Said it should stop it. Help?
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