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Cadillac Deville: Problems & Solutions

24

Comments

  • Thanks for taking the time to respond Hemi. I'm going to take the plunge. I'll keepyou posted.
  • blkhemiblkhemi Posts: 1,717
    When you take it out on the test drive, drive like you just robbed the bank. Nail the accelerator to the floor and stomp on the brake pedal. I know this sounds a little iffy, but trust me you should do this in order to see if the engine is in fine tune(ie: you should hear absolutely no pinging, rattling) and the brakes should be stable without ANY steering wheel wander and the abs or brake light should not illuminate. The braking system on this car is very expensive, just like any large premium car's system is. I had a friend to buy a '00 Deville DHS and two days later he had to replace 2 calipers 2 rotors, and a whole set of brakes. Grand total for all was $779, and that's with him putting them on himself. If all checks out, you got a winner.
  • My 90 Caddy DeVille has 200,000 miles and runs great except when it shifts down a gear for acceleration. Then it vibrates and feels like it is only firing on 1/2 the cylinders. Once it reaches cruising speed the car is normal. I have had it to 2 garages and both ran diagnostics that were normal and could not find the problem. Anyone have a clue about my problem? Thanks in advance.
  • Yeah it's called job security! Get out of the dealerships and go to an independent garage! FAST!
  • If it cranks but won't start, try a control module which is in the distributor.. The Standard brand ignition numbers run like LX301, LX 315 etc. Go to a parts house and have them look it up.
  • Join the club! I'm struggling to get this car to 180K with the second engine! Struts went, 3 of the 4 power windows don't work right sometimes, had more brake problems with this 85 Deville than with all my other cars I've owned combined!
  • Had you been to the dealer prior to these occurrences? If so, they might have tampered with the car. It's just one of the horror stories I've heard. The dealerships make more money in the garage dept. than they do on car sales. The mechanics get paid for fixing cars whether they have something wrong with them or not. He doesn't get paid for standing around! Use dealers ONLY for warranty work and get a work order signed by service manager saying repairs will be made at no cost BEFORE you leave!
  • Does it turn over, but not catch? Did it die all of a sudden while it was running? It's probably the control module under the rotor in the distributor. It costs $75.00 at NAPA. It's easy to put in. The most important thing when removing the distributor cap is to mark the wires and draw a diagram so you can reattach the wires correctly!
  • Good question! I had to replace mine at 68,000. I'm struggling at 181,000 to keep this car going but all my Fords got 250,000 with one engine so I'll be damned if I get less with two!
  • kwanlkwanl Posts: 2
    I have a same problem with my 94 Cadillac Concourse. Exactly same !!! Please, let me know how to fix this problem when you fix it.
    So far I have replaced the fuel pump, filter, pressure check. They were not the problem..
    Please, I need help..

    Thank you.
  • kwanlkwanl Posts: 2
    I have a same problem with my 94 Cadillac concourse(4.6L).
    So far, I have replaced the fuel pump, filter. Pressure check. These are not the problem. Please, let me know if you fix the problem.

    Thank you.
  • I have a 2002 DeVille with over 200000 miles. The car runs and drives great but recently it will occassionally drop in rpms and stall while sitting at idle. There is no pattern to when it happens. After I start it back up I have to keep my foot on the gas to keep it from stalling again. After a few minutes it's fine again. Also, a few times when I have been driving on the highway the car seems to be trying to stop. It feels like the car has geared down and my foot is off the gas. It will do this for 3 or more seconds and then go back to normal. Are these two completly unrelated problems or the same thing? When I checked the codes I got cranshaft sensor errors as well as traction control. The mechanic at the dealership says he's never heard of these problems and he will have to do diagnostic testing. Can anyone help me out with a little background knowledge about this? I don't trust the dealership here (even more then any other dealership).
  • I have a 2000 DeVille with 115000 miles that does the exact same thing. That is why I came to this forum. I have tried numerous dealerships and mechanics who cannot figure it out. With mine, it seems to be at a set time during the warmup period. It always happens 2-3 miles into a drive after the car has been sitting for awhile (overnight or for long periods during the day). I have even had it stall out on the freeway at 75 MPH while coasting. If my foot is on the gas, it will "chug" for a second and then its fine. Once you get past this point, it will run great all day.
    If I let it warm up as its pretty cold out now, it will stall about 5 minutes into the warmup. Once I start it again, no problem.
    Does anyone else out there know what these common problems could be? I have had it on the computer, but after changing numerous sensors the problem is still not resolved.
  • ad513ad513 Posts: 1
    I have a 94 STS which I bought from the original owner...I have had the trans. rebuilt; and now my head gasket is leaking coolant into combustion chambers (coolant on plugs) the dealer told me that with 140k miles they would not fix the gasket because it would cause the bottom half to blow...what are my options besides replacing the engine
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,669
    The dealer's comment doesn't make sense or you maybe didn't hear it right?

    Maybe what he meant was (if you have the Northstar engine) is that the heads might be warped and Cadillac considers warped heads throw-aways---they generally don't rebuild old cylinder heads. And putting new heads on an old engine might stress out the bottom end of the engine, that's true.

    If you do have the Northstar, don't try to rebuild it---get a new engine from Cadillac. Hopefully you won't need that, but......

    Anyway, if the heads aren't warped or cracked, I don't see why you couldn't replace head gaskets. The problem is, once you open the engine up you have to be prepared for the worst.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • ruffoloruffolo Posts: 3
    Check the stabaliser bar I had similar problem on my 97 STS its inexpensive .
    Ruff
  • at about 41 or 42 mph when the car shifts into last gear and you are giving it some gas it starts to cut out and wont go. it stops at about 50 unless u are flooring it. Also just recently the car ONLY when in drive starts going from 625 or 650 rpms to like 700 then down to 575 and it makes a jolt, kind of a shake. other than that the car runs great. any ideas?? would be greatly appreciated.
  • daneslaxdaneslax Posts: 1
    Try having a mechanic test your M.A.P. sensor. It's the module that controls the air/fuel ratio for your engine. It could be the reason for the inconsistant RPM's and lack of acceleration. I had a simialr problem with my 86' Mustang and had it fixed for around $300. Let me know how it goes...
  • daviss31daviss31 Posts: 1
    I have had this problem with my 1997 Deville. But, I have never gone to a dealer to have them fixed after warranty. It only takes about thirty minutes to change and they cost about 23 bucks at autozone. My suggestion is to check the wiring harness. The reason mine kept going out was the exhaust manifold was melting the wiring. After putting heatrestant tape on them, I've had absolutely no problem.
  • i have plenty of juice in the battery but when i go to start there is nothing. no crank, no clicking, nothing. in fact with the key on, the power antenna goes up and with the key in the start position the power antenna is coming down.
    HELP!
  • 1993 CADILLAC DEVILLE
    NOTHING HAPPENS WHEN ATTEMPTING TO START. THERE IS NO NOISE MADE AND THE BATTERY IS GOOD.
    IS IT MY STARTER?
  • ooopsooops Posts: 1
    I own a 1990 sedan deville, 4.6L. it recently started losing power while accelerating through 2nd gear. the codes showed that there was a fault in the egr, so i replaced that. then it showed that the air blower was bad so i replaced that and the 02 sensor, ran good for about a week, then started backfiring. this car has been babied to death, I have had it in the dealership 3 times since the problem started and they are baffled? Me too. any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks.....
  • tercloterclo Posts: 3
    I HAVE A TRACTION DIABLED MESSAGE READOUT ON MY INFORMATION BOARD AND ALSO HAVE A ANTI-SKID LIGHT ON IN THE DASH. I WAS WONDERING HOW SERIOUS THIS WAS AND WHAT THE COST WOULD BE TO HAVE IT CHECKED. IT DOES NOT SEEM TO AFFECT THE BRAKING SYSTEM AT ALL. ANY AND ALL HELP WOULD BE APPRICIATED. THANK YOU
  • jdobbsjdobbs Posts: 2
    I understand that these northstars have a tendency to blow the head gasket and that leads to a few thousand bucks. Has anyone experienced any of these advertised quick fixes that supposedly stop the leaks? I am not a proponent of "quick fixes" but recently my caddy is really missing on start-up but after about driving for 20 seconds it runs smooth. The third problem is when the AC is od and I accelerate there is a flatuating noise that occurs until I let up on the accelerator. Any comments on any. (BESIDES GET RID OF IT!)
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Start problem may be either the Fuel Pressure Regular (allowing fuel to enter the vacuum line that is attacted, which is then drawn into the intake causing overrich condition with hard starting) or,
    an injector (or more than one) may be leaking, allowing fuel to leak into a cylinder again causing overrich and hard start.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Once the head gasket is leaking very much, nothing can be done except a new gasket. And Timezerts should also me installed when this is done. Involves pulling the motor, overdrilling all the head bolts, rethreading, and screwing in Timesert. Which is steel insert that the head bolts screw into. These will not 'pull out' or loosen and the head gaskets should never fail again. Few shops know how to do this. Many Cadillac dealers will not do it.

    You should be running the 'pills' in the cooling system. These are available at Cadillac and I'm pretty sure your car has a sticker on the plastic cover over the radiator that gives the GM part number for these. About $8 for 6. Do not put them in the surge tank under the radiator cap. There is not adequate flow there to move them throughout the system. You should pull a radiator hose loose and put 3 to 6 pills in there. If you go this far, you should just pull the lower hose and drain the system, refilling with long-life antifreeze and water, 50/50 mix. The 'pill' which has ground gensen root (no lie, this is what is in it) is about the only thing that can help. It will fill and close off very minor leaks. But if the head bolts start to loosen, the head gasket is going to leak, the car will run hot, hot, hot and something major will have to be done -replace the motor or replace the gaskets (do both of them since the motor is pulled) and timeserting the head bolts.
  • 87 deville 4.1 a/c will quit running (clutch) when i cross a couple of contacts at the window electrical switch it starts running, (i`m scared) ever heard of that before? thanks
  • I have a 1995 cadillac sedan deville, my AC does not blow, it says ac compressor off and very low refrigerant, but I have had refrigerant put in the car. My mechanic told me it was an electrical probelm, if I hold this peice down the air will blow but it's not cold, and when I let this peice go it stops blowing all together. I need to know the problem ad if possible what is the name of this piece!
  • jeffcjeffc Posts: 16
    My son bought a 1986 Cadillac Deville, mint 51000 miles.

    While trying to install an aftermarket stereo ( why, I'll never know)the digital dash suddenly went out. Any ideas what happened? Where does he start? Hopefully, he isn't looking at a major repair job
  • ram84ram84 Posts: 1
    A buddy of mine has a 88 deville and hes been having problems with overheating. We replaced the radiator(it had a leak)we also replaced the Water Pump(thought it was bad). Then we noticed it was still leaking, it looked like from the water pump, but it was actually leaking from inlet pipe from the radiator. It still had a steady stream coming from the "Y" pipe going to the radiator(not the hose)My question is, is the pipe replacable? It looks like the pipe is connected to the block, unable to tell for sure(bad view).
    If anyone has an idea, a solution, or any suggestions on this problem. Please post.
    Thanks in advance
    -Ram84
This discussion has been closed.