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Mitsubishi Diamante Maintenance and Repair



  • danno4danno4 Posts: 10
    It doesn't look like too many people use this forum anymore but here goes. I have a 1992 Diamante with 150,000 miles on it and it has an intermittent A/C problem. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't . When it works it is very cold so I assume the refridgerant is okay. I did have the car with me when I was stationed in Bahrain (middle east) and it started doing it then. The Mitsubishi dealer there told me it was the A/C controller so I found one thru an internet junk dealer and tried it and it do any good, the symtoms changed, so I got another one and that didn't do any good either. Short of taking it back to a dealer, anyone have any ideas as to what it might be.

  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,656
    I'd certainly check the refrigerant level. If it drops to a certain pressure, it will turn off the AC compressor clutch.
  • danno4danno4 Posts: 10
    Okay , I'll check that but I assumed (I know ) that if the refrigerant was low , I wouldn't get cold air when it does come on. I'll check it though and get back to you. Thanks.
  • 97diamante97diamante Posts: 11
    The system has a dual pressure switch. It senses both too low a pressure AND too high a pressure. On very hot days the pressure can get very high and shut the compressor down for a while. On colder days the pressure tends to be lower and the low pressure function will shut the compressor down for a while.
    Of course the design should cope with temperature extremes.

    IF the expansion valve is contaminated or there is some moisture in the system, you can have a good low pressure reading on your fill gauges, but when the day is hot, the expansion valve becomes too restricted and the compressor pressure rises too much. Bang, it shuts down.
    Conversely, if you lower the pressure by bleeding to avoid this over-pressure, then on cooler days the low pressure switch does its thing.

    Sounds like you need COMPETENT professional help. :cry:
  • bill208bill208 Posts: 9
    Needs replacing. $385 at the dealer. Checking at autopartswarehouse there are different locations before/after catalytic, left/right front, left/right rear. From 50 to 300$ How do I tell what's what?
  • bill208bill208 Posts: 9
    Thanks. The competent professional help is pay $385 and we will fix it. In checking online, there are 30+ versions (from $74-$370) of the sensor depending on where it's located before/after catalytic, right/left. I know it's got to be easy to replace and I used to wrench cars before they became so computerized. If I'm looking into the engine compartment is the right side the drivers side or is it opposite that as if you are sitting in the drivers seat?
  • bill208bill208 Posts: 9
    Thanks. Is there more than one sensor on the Daimante VR X 2002 or am I over thinking this?
  • mdc4mdc4 Posts: 2
    I've not noticed this in the past but recently each time I'm driving on a fairly curvy highway, my Diamante feels like it's going to swerv out of control on tight left hand curves. It never does this on right hand turns at all. I've had the tires rotated but that didn't seem to improve anything. Any ideas would sure be appreciated.... Thanks!
  • Well you're loading up the right side suspension and it apparently is not happy. So I'd be looking at a blown right side strut/shock, a severe misalignment issue or a worn suspension part such as ball joint, tie rod, etc.
  • Actually, I can tell you exactly what it is. It is the rear knuckle-bushings.
    They are a typical wear part on these cars, and only these cars.. I know, it sucks.. but also know that if you do not repair these you will tear through tires like nobody’s business..
    Unfortunately, you have to go to the stealership for repair, or a specific mits guy, otherwise they will mis-diagnose you with, alignment, shocks/struts, bearings, and the like. I think it ran me about $350-$400 (us) and that included an alignment.
  • OH YEAH--I didn't think about that. Cadillac owners know all about bad knuckle bushings and the symptoms. (I assume you mean bushing on the A-arms?)

    You could be right. If those are worn, they could have those effects.
  • I parked my 2003 Diamante VR-X in the garage for a week and went to start yesterday but was unsuccessful. I thought the battery had drained (or died) but that was unlikely because I had just put in a new battery 2 weeks back. I jump started the car and the lights came on. The car started. When I disconnected the jumper cables the car made funny sound - like it was struggling to stay running - and stopped running almost immediately. Has anyone out there had similar experience. Can someone help me with what the problem could be? Thanks.
  • Code came up on my 99 diamante. Took off the timing belt covers and noticed that it seems ( according to the length of the wires on the new one ) that it seems to go into the block about an inch and a half. maybe im not seeing it right, but have tried to replace it a couple of times and cant seem to figure it out. Maybe someone out there has done it before and can give me a hint. Please dont tell me the crank has to come out! lol Also looking for a helping hand on ditailed info on how to replace timing belt. doiturself
  • Ive got a 99 and when I went to change out the rear rotors they wouldnt budge. Maybe you will laugh when u hear this..... but on mine there were two extra holes in the area where the rotor slips on to the housing on oppisite sides of each other. Got a hair up my butt and treated it as though it was a steering wheel. I put two bolts that would fit into the threads and tightened them EQUALLY so it forcably pulled the rotor off the housing. I beat on the rotor for half an hour before trying this and it wouldnt budge. Dont know first hand if yours has the same extra holes in them but its worth a try instead of damaging something
  • dude that clicking is coming from the temp ajuster switch behind the ash tray under the dash. its got nothing to do with the fan
  • tribe1tribe1 Posts: 2
    there are four o2 sensors... 2 in the front of the engine, one before and after the cat.
  • Never buy lifetime pads,which is cheaper to replace ,the pads or the rotors!
  • We have a 2003 Diamante LS and the windows have started fogging up. I've read a little about heater cores possibly being the culprit. Can someone give a definitive answer? We're trying to sell it (less than 40k miles) and I'd like to put this issue to bed. Thanks!
  • bowfanbowfan Posts: 55
    I've got a '93 waggy that hasn't run for a couple years, originally stopped when the 4th/OD clutches went out. Just never made time to work on it, but I've decided it needs to go. V6-3.0L

    This weekened I jump started it and don't think it's getting fuel. The engine does turn over. If I spray ether into plenum I can get it to fire momentarily, so I believe it's got spark.

    Disconnected the fuel line which runs from fuel filter at the front fuel rail and cranked, but don't see any fuel coming out. I'd like to jumper the fuel pump and make sure the pump is good and not clogged up. I've got a 92-96 factory service manual but it seems to deal with the dohc engines, and I can't correlate the pics it shows with my engine compartment.

    I believe there is supposed to be a connector in the engine compartment that you can hook +12v to test the pump, but can't seem to find it.

    On a possibly related note, the fuel gauge is registering empty, even though I've added 10 gallons of fuel to it. I've been trying to read up and think that there is a relay that may power both the fuel pump and fuel gauge, but again, I'm not sure where this would be located.

    Does anyone have any pointers on location of the FP relay, FP test connection or good advice?

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