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Comments
Let me know if you have any ideas.
Thanks,
It will be ok for a while them the rpms start to drop and rise again. I have to slow down
and stop for while to let it cool down then stay under 50mph. I have not had a chance to have someone look at. its very nerve racking not knowing if you'll make it to a safe place if you stall
Ofcourse now we know they were in an economic crisis. We, like others, will not buy another GMproduct. If they would not help resolve a nickel and dime problem what would they do with a major repair issue. Shame on you GM.
Anyone have any suggestions, I would gladly appreciate it!
see http://www.girardgibbs.com/dexcool.html
I'm pretty sure you were covered but it's too late to apply for the re-imbursement now.
Otherwise, it sounds like you need to go to a different repair shop - one that can actually diagnose your ABS problem and repair it without just changing parts. Or at least one that won't charge you for parts they replaced that won't fix your problem.
Thanks!
When my Alero was doing that same sort of thing, I was warned that sooner or later I was going to have bigger problems. Well...I did! I wound up having it towed to a GM Dealer who tried starting the car, it would in fact start, but when they tried it again and went to put it in gear, it died. Diag showed that it was the security system and I had to replace the ignition switch and then reprogram keys and vehicle. It was costly, but it did fix the problem. Most mechanics that I have talked to said that I souldn't have had to replace the whole assembly, but in fact I had to to fix the problem. I hope this helps although it is unfortunate that it's not a cheap repair.
My 03 Alero only has around 64,000 miles on it. Bought it for $4500.00 and to date have probably spent close to $6000.00 on the darn thing! I got to the point where I mine as well keep fixing it with what I already had into it, so I kept going. I could have bought a brand new car by now and I have only owned it for 1.5 years. Good Luck!
ABILENE, TEXAS
Installing the resistor in the harness only bypasses one component of passlock, the hall-effect (magnetic) sensor in the ignition switch, which is the culprit in probably 90-95% of the problems with passlock, and since you say the ten minute wait with ignition on clears your no start problem, it's very likely that's the case with yours also.
Now once a month I oil the key, push it in and out of the switch slowly a couple times. When starting the car, do not jam the key in quickly and turn. Take your time. It seems to be a very sensitive switch, and needs a little TLC to prevent dirt build up. Try it. A little 3 in 1 oil squirt might save you a $500 repair bill. I told my GM dealer mechanic about this solution. He said "Yeah, it might work"
email me at kisertl@yahoo.com
Thanks
I have a 2003 Alero 3.4 V6, bought with 40,000 miles on it, now has 115,000. I love the car but for the past 15,000 miles I've been having a periodic Electrical hesitation when I start the vehicle. I'll turn the key, the engine starts but non of the electrical equipment goes on, such as the odometer, spedometer, a/c, radio, power windows, gas gauge...nothing, yet the engine is on and you can actually drive the car, only non of the gauges will work. Sometimes it hesitates for maybe 15 seconds, other times it will take at least 2-3 minutes before the gauges and electrical will turn on. I have learned that if the car starts and the electrical doesn't, I hit the top of the dashboard with my fist and everything will kick on! (fonzie style!) This problem does not happen all the time, maybe every 1 in 6 starts.
Any ideas? Could there be something loose or a bad fuse? It never seems to happen when I take it to the shop and it doesn't follow a pattern. Also, my rear defroster isn't working, and my wipers only on high, perhaps related?
Check the grid for the defroster in the back window, if there's any breaks in it, or the wires are not connected on both sides, it won't work. If you can, pull the wires off on both sides and check for continuity across the grid with an ohmmeter. Also, check for a blown fuse in the circuit. If the fuse is good and grid isn't broken then it could be the control switch itself.
The wipers, since they work on high, could either be the wiper motor itself or the combination control switch (also known as a multifunction switch).
Thanks,
Joe
If you're having the security issue, you'll know because your security sign on your dash will not only be lit up, but it will be blinking. I have a 2003 Alero, with only 79,000 miles, and it does this about once every two or three months. Here's my fix (this has been working for over a year, and I found the answer on this forum). 1st - Take your key off the ring so it is in the ignition alone. 2nd - Turn the key to the 1st position (ACC) and let it sit there for 20-25 mintues. When you come back to the car, check: the security light will no longer be blinking. 3rd - When you go to turn the key, turn it right away all the way, (do not take the key out and start over). It works for me every time. If I'm not explaining this well, you can find another explanation in a forum that was posted on here about a year and a half ago. I hope this helps you. (A tip - each time you go to start the car, be sure to pause at that ACC (the first click) and let the battery get good and juiced up. It is usually when I'm in a hurry and forget to pause there, that I have the starting issue. I can't wait until my car is paid off, so I can drive something else. This is so frustrating! Anyway, good luck!
I too have the same blinking light 'Alero Game' problem ...I have spent 3000.0 on this B S I have read so many owners complaining about this I too was told nothing was wrong I have been communicazting with a few other owners and a class action suit is started.
GM is WRONG ! :mad: