Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Honda Civic Hybrid Engine Questions



  • texlibtexlib Posts: 4
    I had a 2004 and had the same problems, and now have an 06 with the same problems, took it to the dealer yesterday and had them check the battery, it was fine within specsfor a 28 month battery. I asked that they replace it anyway, going on a log trip soon, the replacement battery has 330 cold crank amps versus 290 on the old one, not sure what they would replace your 04 with, but I bet it is a stronger battery, they were clueless as well at my dealer, looked through their system and couldn't find anything.
  • texlibtexlib Posts: 4
    I looked in my manual for my 06, not there, where did you find this info, as the service manager at my Honda dealer didn't know anything about this, thanks
  • indienoirindienoir Posts: 1
    I bought my '06 HCH in Sept. of that year, new. I have had no problems with it AT ALL, until now. It has been approximately two weeks now that I've been having problems with the vehicle.

    Tired of paying for the ridiculous amount that my dealer charges for an oil change, I took the car to the family mechanic. Oil changed, no problem. That was approximately a month and a half ago. I started to notice that the oil meter was hanging out at 80%. Additionally, the mpg indicator was dropping drastically from 45 to 39. However, the odometer was ticking away, and I checked my records at what point was my next oil change, and it was coming up in about 200 miles according to my odometer. So, I decided that maybe the oil meter was screwed up in addition to needing to get my oil changed.

    Yesterday I took the car to the dealer to have it looked at and for an oil change and the 35,000 mi. inspection (which is about 2k overdue). They did their thing and changed the oil and filter and transmission fluid and that was it. I drove out of there confident that all was restored. My mileage immediately starting going up on the indicator.... and then started plummeting to 34 mpg. Furious, I called the dealer today asking for an appointment and described my problem.

    The woman in the service department gave me the run-around saying that all they would be able to do is a fuel efficiency test that would cost $100 plus gas. I told her that that was ridiculous, that the gas isn't being eaten up any faster, but the indicators seem to be screwed up. She was going to have the service manager call me back (which never happened). She also began telling me that maybe I purchased gas with ethanol in it. I have never driven my car out of the area. I buy gasoline from the same gas station that I have for the past couple of years as it's across the street from my house. I have never had a problem with the car ever. What is going on?!

  • bso1129bso1129 Posts: 1
    Hi Meeps,
    My 2005 Civic Hybrid has been having the same issue you describe. Once in the parking lot: I was waiting in line to exit, shut off the engine and was listening to the radio when it started to sputter on and off, and the engine wouldn't turn on afterwards, dash lights would just blink. I didn't try to start it again until over 30 min. later, and it started with no problem. My car did it again this afternoon, except this time the radio and AC shut off and dash lights started to blink AS I was driving it--seems like an incredibly dangerous prospect if I had been on the freeway!!-also, the steering began to feel stiff. I immediately pulled over, waited and at a mechanic friends' suggestion, opened the gas tank to air it out for a few minutes (he said sometimes when the cars get too hot vapor can build up in the tank? the weather was pretty hot both times this has happened) anyhow it started again as normal about 25 minutes later. I was wondering if you have gained any more insight into the problem since your post. I will likely take it into the dealer to get checked in a day or two, but am not optimistic about them finding the problem.
  • uzlessuzless Posts: 7
    2mnycats1 - Your car is OK, from what I see. A couple of things to note (I have an '06):

    - The IMA system is calibrated to only 'fully charge' the battery in limited circumstances. This is because NiMH batteries last longest when they're kept in the middle of the spectrum ('7' bars should be considered optimal; on the rare times when you have 8 bars, you'll see the system giving you 'extra' assist to bleed the charge meter back down to 7). At the lower end of the spectrum, 4 bars is the 'minimum' charge, and you'll see the system do 'extra' charging to bring the level back up if it drops to 4 bars. You'll also notice assist is lessened at this level. At 3 bars, assist pretty much stops, and at 2 bars, you'll lose the auto-stop function. Most of the time, my car sits between 5-6 bars of charge, it goes up to 7 bars occasionally, and 8 bars on the very rare occasion. When it's at 8 bars, you'll see it drop down to 7 after a few minutes of driving.

    - When you saw the state of charge (SoC) drop down like you did (drained down to 2 bars, then down to 0, then a big recharge), what you were experiencing was a 'recal' (or, recalibration). Your owner's manual will tell you that this meter is an 'approximate' state of charge. What happens is that the system occasionally loses track of how much juice is left in the battery; when it finds out that it's far enough out of sync, it drains the remaining charge out of the battery, and then charges it up again (thus, the recalibration). This will happen occasionally, however, if it occurs regularly (ie; at least once a day), take the car in and have it checked. Generally, if there's a real problem, the IMA light will illuminate in the dash - if this happens, there's a stored trouble code that the technician should be able to find with his / her scan tool.

    - Your A/C unit is a bit different than a traditional unit. This car has a 'dual-scroll' compressor. What that means is that the compressor can be driven by the traditional belt / pulley design, or, when the engine is stopped, by a pure electrical signal. Unfortunately, the compressor will tend to drain the life out of the battery at stop lights, etc, especially if you like the A/C cold. Try this - keep the temp dialed in at 80F, and increase the fan speed to your liking manually. You should notice that the battery SoC is better maintained, and at 80, it's still fairly comfortable. 78F or lower will drain the battery, 80F seems to be the best compromise.

    Hope this helps. Your car is just need to get used to the differences between this car and a conventional one, and the compromises made in certain areas (like what I mention above) for usability / user expectations. I'm not thrilled about the A/C issue, but now that I know the 'why' and 'how', I can cope a bit better. Especially when I get 50-52mpg from 9-10 gallons of gas at a fillup. ;)
  • texlibtexlib Posts: 4
    Hi Meeps
    I have had this problem with both my 04 and now my 06. I took it to the dealer and they didn't have a clue, so I went ahead and changed the conventional battery under the hood. The replacement was about 15% more powerful then the factory one, now waiting to see if I have the whole blinking light situation again, no problems though for the last month.
  • I suspect that the dealer may of put the wrong oil in my 2007 Honda Civic Hybrid. The car seem sluggish on acceleration and the milage is down slightly. They may of put thicker oil in it. Has this happen to anyone else and will it damage the car?
  • targettuningtargettuning Posts: 1,371
    I have a few comments regarding "wrong oil"
    1. I doubt that a Honda dealer's service department would install oil of an improper weight in one of their products. My non-hybrid 06 Civic uses 5W-20 (I believe) and unless the hybrid version uses some exotic blend or weight then it probably uses the same or similar weight oil.
    2. a simple oil change (whether or not the exact same weight oil was replaced at change) will not make any appreciable difference on acceleration or measurable change in fuel economy. I know people will dispute that but no change of oil type (from natural to synthetic) or brand (from Quaker State to Valvoline) or even weight makes any major (or minor) difference. I changed to Mobil 1 on our Civic at the 1st oil change and aside from (maybe) quicker cold weather cranking/starting I can't see a whit of difference and ended up continuing to use the more expensive Mobil 1 on the off chance that it will provide superior engine wear protection in the long run. Even that is suspect with regular changes using "dino" oil.
    3. NO replacement oil used at a change will do any damage what so ever to ANY car.....unless it the used oil from the previous customer..
  • etpetp Posts: 153
    They put the wrong oil in your car. Yours uses 0w20 synthetic. Go to wal-Mart and buy it and demand they put it in your vehicle and show you the empty bottles. This has happened to me at least once. 5w20/5w30 in non synthetic will make a big difference in your mileage man. Also they let the air out of your tires. 42 PSI man. They do this every time I have an oil change. 4 hybrids and 8 total vehicles in my family and 42 PSI for 8 years without a problem.
  • Thanks for the info,
    They probably used proper oil, but the cost was alot less than usual and my milage does seem to be down. More than likely they just over charged my at the earlier changes.
  • Thanks for the info,
    They probably used proper oil, 0 - 20 wt. But the cost was alot less than usual and my milage does seem to be down. More than likely they just over charged my at the earlier changes.
  • Greetings to all,
    Any members auto start fail? The car never restarted after a stop. Happened once, so far. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
  • texlibtexlib Posts: 4
    I had several problems this spring, I went and had the regular battery checked and Honda said that it was fine, of course I had just driven 10 miles at highway speed. I had them replace the battery, which it turns out at least for the 06 is about 15% more poerful, less then $100 I think. No problems since.
  • Many thanks! I'll replace the battery.
  • Hello!
    I've got HCH 2003. While changing oil in the engine I noticed that IMA electric motor drain cover was oily. Also there was a little oil on the ground that came from this cover. Is it OK?
    There is a picture of drain cover-part №2(OEM: 1A226-PHM-300) on the link - or It was oily. Drops of oil was on groove of drain cover. If these is surplus which lubricates of IMA electric motor?
  • I have a 2008 Honda Civic Hybrid, where is the air filter located under the hood?
  • Any suggestions how to fix auto-stop? It used to work well, stopping the engine when the car came to a stop. But now the auto-stopmy 2004 Civic hybrid w CVT never operates. The car is run for 40minutes or more with occasional stops, the outside air temp is in the 50-60's, the heat and AC and defrost are off, the battery is usually 3/4 to completely full, and no check engine lights.
    I tried a can of techron into the fuel tank to see if that would help, thinking maybe the fuel system is impaired delaying the burning of the fuel and hence preventing auto-stop. The RPM's of the car now slow to almost zero, a vague hesitation is noted, then the RPM's go back to the 750 range.
    I really don't want to go to the dealer and run up a large bill for a car that otherwise runs perfectly. Any other suggestions?
  • I have an '05 Hybrid Civic with the same problem. I took it to the dealer and they made it work, but wanted to replace a clutch switch (I do not have the exact part name with me). Once they got it to work (without the new part), it worked for 5 days then stopped working. When I got the new part, it worked for about a week and then stopped working and has not worked for 20 days. I contacted them yesterday and I am probably going to take it back. I'll let you know what I find out.

    I think that they want to return the part for another one. Personally, I do do think it is, or was the switch that was the problem. I had an extended warranty so I did not have to pay for this, but my warranty ended a couple of weeks after I had the work done.
  • Thanks for the reply, perrydale!
    I've looked at a shop manual for the 2004 Civic hybrid, and found that there is an "idle stop switch" that is attached to the top of the brake pedal. The manual gave instructions for adjustment, but mine seemed to be set properly. Also, there needs to be adequate "vacuum reserve for the power brakes"-I have no idea how to check this.
    Do let me know what the new part is called. I'll update you about my car sometime in the next few weeks when I may bring it to my local (non Honda) mechanic.
  • The part is called the "clutch interlock switch". My HCH has a standard transmission.

    Mine started working again the day before I was going to take it back in, so I canceled. I'm sure you know this, but make sure the "ECON" button next to the AC button in turned on. I do not think auto-stop will work if it is not on.

    Funny you mention the brakes factor. I've noticed that if I am auto-stopped and I put more pressure on the brake pedal, it comes out of auto-stop. So I knew there was a connection with the brakes, but did not know what it was.

Sign In or Register to comment.