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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Brake Problems



  • jomanjoman Posts: 2
    where is the best deisel repair in mohave valley?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    What if there's some air still some where how best to try and get it out.

    The old fashioned way. Have someone pump the pedal and bleed each unit.
  • I've done that (have a real person pump the pedal) 3 times and my brakes are still soft. I'm looking for anything i may have missed. If there's air in there what other things can I do to try and get it out?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    The brake pedal is softer now as compared to before the brake job?
  • Thanks. Appreciate the info. Didn't know about the turning part. I'll watch out for that.
  • I've read where Silverados have an engineering problem with the parking brakes and that a new designed spring clip is the solution for premature wearing of the emergency brake shoes. I never use my emergency brake and yet my emer. brake shoes are worn out. Does this issue with the spring clip account for the brakes being worn out even when they are rarely if ever used?
  • change rubber hoses to calipers :shades:
  • no it's just seems inconsistent. At times the pedal will go to the floor and other times it won't. However, i can never slam on the brakes & lock up the wheels. I spoke with my dad and he seems to think it may be the rear drums. I've not adjusted those is a long while. So i'm going to over haul those and i'll let you know.
  • My 2002 Silverado 2500HD has 28000 miles on it. Recently,while driving the truck, I applied the brakes and the pedal went completely to the floor, leaving me with no brakes. Fortunately, I was going very slow and was able to roll to a slow stop with no injuries or damage. I found a hole had rusted through one of the brake lines. I then called General Motors and was told that a dealer would need to inspect the truck before any further action could be taken. The result is this: I was charged $175.09 for hauling the truck 20 miles to the nearest Chevrolet dealer and 'inspecting' it; The lines had rusty spots with a hole in one area; General Motors would provide no assistance with repairs since my problem may be the result of 'low mileage'; And the dealer wanted to repair the truck for $1000.00. I am sure the sudden and unexpected loss of brakes is a major safety defect and have reported the problem to NHTSA.
  • Hi etrexler,

    check the post with my name on them this will lead you too many threads with this subject.. just click on the green linked (ttaupier), there have been a lot of posts ..about this >> and the NTSB/NHTSB.. could not careless, unless you cause a 300 car pileup.. just my .5 cents

    There is a stainless steel kit you can order ($300~), then about $300-$400 to put on.. as far as the problem being >>> a Low millage thing.. I'm not understanding.. sounds like someone talking out of their silly part, BUT..I don't know.

    let us know how you make out..
  • Etrexler and Ttaupier1,
    I reported my brake line which failed on my 2003 to the NHTSA about a year ago and recently they have responded asking for more details on the problem. Who knows, maybe something will come of it if more people continue to report the issue.
  • I thought i would follow up to my brake job issue. I ended up replacing - the front calipers, front brake lines, master cylinder, front pads, rear shoes, springs & wheel cylinder and that didn't fix the problem. I called my uncle and explained the situation and he told me to "slam" the brakes a couple of times and then rebleed. I did and that solved the problem. He said that valve gets stuck over a period of time and needs to be "kicked". Now the brakes are better then when I purchased the truck new.
  • I inherited a 1996 chevysilverado 1500 extended cab. The right front brake pads wont release the pressure on the rotor. I have replaced the caliper, but it didn't seem to fix the problem. The left side is fine. Anybody have any other suggestions?
  • akjbmwakjbmw Posts: 231
    If the brake hoses to the calipers were not replaced, it might be a good idea to do that. Also look for compression damage to the brake line from a possible previous off-road (or not) debris attack.
  • I had an appointment on 1/30/2010 for a simple LOF,and tire rotation,before I was able to leave the dealership the service manager had me talk to the mechanic that was servicing my truck,at this time he pointed out that the inside brake pad was only using 1/3 of the rotor surface on both rear rotors,I asked him if this was common and I was told only on the 2000-2005 trucks,the repair will cost me $426.00 and he tells me this will happen again in about five years,and GM doesn't know why this occurs,,,this should be a recall item on our braking system as a safety device hazard if you ask me!
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Which third of the rotor was the pad in contact with? What did he do for $426.00? Did he explain why it would happen again within 5 years? If he did suspect it to happen again did he use the same parts to correct the problem? and was that why he expects it to happen again?
  • my 2008 2500 Duramax had brake failure twice in the past month. Once backing up the peddle went to the floor and the second time approaching a stop light and the peddle also went to the floor. Unfortunately the truck went through the light and was hit by a car. Fortunately no one was hurt. But a ticket was given to the driver. It wasn't me driving this time. The local GM dealer towed the truck to their shop and tested every componet they could but no failure resulted. Any help out there?
  • It was the inside third of the rotor closest to the hub,I didn't have the dealer fix the problem because they are going to use the same brand replacement parts that will promote the same situation in app. five years according to the mechanic,mind you he was very limited to what info. he would give me,however he claims that GM doesn't know what makes this happen,that is all he would say so he would still have a job!!! I'm getting a couple estimates from neighborhood repair shops and want to see what their professional input will be,I will update my repair status when I get this [non-permissible content removed] resolved.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    I have seen the same problem. The rubber hose that runs between the steel line at the frame and the caliper can come apart internally when it gets old. Just replace the hoses, front and rear would be a good idea, and flush the brake fluid to get any reamaing garbage out of the system. On a vehicle this old, not a bad idea to flush the brake system anyway.

    Good luck
  • I have been having brake issues with my 2005 GMC Sierra 1500. When I purchases the truck the brakes worked fine, and after about 10,000 miles of driving they started to get bad. I changed out my front rotors and brake pads hoping that would fix them but it hasn't.

    My problem is when I am coming to a complete stop and I brake, the peddle begins to go down, the truck keeps moving slowly, the brakes push down a little further, then I come to a complete stop. It's almost like the peddle goes down, you can feel the brakes being applied, then it feels like the brake crunches and goes down a little further coming to a complete stop. Also when I am turning and braking, sometimes there is a weird grind noise coming from my front rotors.

    I took the truck into the shop, they bled the brake line, adjusted my rear drum brakes, and even put on two new tie rods. They told me they saw NO leaks and everything was ok. After I drove it away, the problem still occurs.

    My thoughts are it might be the a bad master cylinder, or ball joints, but I am not sure why it does this. ANY HELP IS APPRECIATED PLEASE!!! I WANT TO GET THIS PROBLEM FIXED!
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