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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Brake Problems



  • I just changed out my rear brake shoes and rotors. my driver side had a leaking wheel seal. After changing the seal and test driving the truck, the driver side made a chirping noise and became extremely hot, in 20 degrees weather. my conclusion was the caliper was dragging. a machanic friend thought the hose to the caliper was the suspect. after replacing the hose and bleeding the rear brake lines, the dragging brake seems to be fixed. unfortunetly, the wheel seal (new) is still leaking. did the extreme heat from the rotor cause distortion in the seal? I did have to tighten the nut that holds the hub two more full turns. could that be the reason? Anybody got any thoughts?
  • can t seem to get rear brake from dragging, even after replacing pads,rotor, rubber hose, and caliper, and bleeding more than a quart of fluid. Does any one know if theres something I should be doing that I m not?
  • What I would try next would be ABS, look for fuse's controler's or sensor problems. Whatever the case may be you could have a fault somewhere in your ABS system that fools your truck into a "hard braking situation" when in fact you are simply slowing down. From the noises and situations your describing thats what leads me to believe your ABS system could be at fault, and the fact that you bled and replaced pads and rotors there's not much left.
  • Hi Barrail,

    Sounds like the parking brake may need to be repaired or adjusted, if there is a grinding noise and all the "DISC-BRAKE", side seems good. I would be leaning to investigate the back side.. the non visible side or parking brake linkage and springs....

    I have a about 65K miles since my last brake job(130K total on truck)...and need to do a brake job.. I also never use my parking my guess is.. this is the part that may be rubbing and not resetting..

    I also have SSBC/Tri-piston in the rear and notice that the brake pads wear much quicker than the front. The rotor seems fine but the pads definitely see more action than the stock pads. I've not had any issues with anything sounding like rubbing...with the SSBC calipers, however..

    The reason I changed the calipers in the rear to begin with, was my front rotors were warping once a month due to the back calipers, factory one piston disc, were frozen to the slide guide pins, just make sure your rear calipers are not frozen to the guide slider pins that allow the caliper to align on the rotors..

    Hopefully this helps.. let us know what you find..

    Cheers, Ted
  • Hey Airpac,

    wow sounds very close to my original posts, way back when I was having my new truck brake issues.. The rear calipers are junk.. I'm so disappointed with GM on this full size truck issue, for about $1500, at the factory they could have upgraded the brakes to something worth while..

    My truck had the same issue, and GM mechanics have know about the issue and the TSB for some time, maybe the problem its so old now none of the new mechanics are even trained on it.. search my name and look for my earlier post's i describe this problem and the issue that GM knows they have..

    Basically.. the rear calipers freeze on their slider guide pins and then the caliper can not grab the rotor...
  • Hi ttaupier1 thanks for the response. drivers side rear brake has a new rotor,caliper, and flex rubber hose to the caliper. a new wheel seal that has been a constant nuisance. the original had failed and the first replacement also leaked between the inner seals. so i about to reinstall the second replacement seal. As far as the brakes are concerned, the
    e-brake was backed off all the way so as to eliminate any confusion about brake adjustment. what I hope is the solution is that some how (1) to much grease on the caliper bolts, (2) bled the rear brakes incorrectly and I hope this is the solution. Heading back out to reinstall the new seal and take it for a testdrive, hope it works.
  • I think the brake problem is solved. the wheel seal, only time will tell. stay tuned.
  • front left wheel started squeling on this mornings roadtest. After returning to the garage, realized front brake rotors were shot. $216.00 later, new rotors and pads are installed. after the road test, squeling still there.
    i noticed while i had the rotor off, the the spindle was pretty woblly.
    hey ted, have you ever had the front knuckle apart? it seems pretty straight forward.any tips or cautions would be appreciateld. also after bleeding all the brake lines again, I dont have a great pedal. Has it become obvious that I dont do this very often. any suggestions would be welcome.
  • mooseyemooseye Posts: 2
    I don't see how they can call this a regional problem. My truck has faulty anti-lock breaks and also the rusted brake lines. I am pretty sure the truck came from up north somewhere but I now own it in Tennessee. And guess what? The problem did not magically disappear when the truck was resold in TN.
    Why should some owners be burdened with the cost of repair and some not?
    Why is this real safety problem not addressed? Is Toyota's problem bigger?
    Do I have to have a break failure and run over a lady with a baby for it to be a recognized problem in all states?
  • tcbusatcbusa Posts: 4
    I have an 08'sierra sle crewcab & recently noticed a pulseing feel@ the pedal when braking from about 40mph to 0.It as if the abs system is operating without cause.Left frt.rotor is slightly grooved,24,000k.Anyone else having same issue on 08 model.Thank's tcbusa959
  • annmacannmac Posts: 1
  • jdio121jdio121 Posts: 1
    i bought a 09 silverado LT 1500 ext 4x4 w/rear drums and out of the blue 3000miles my brakes started pulsating good at hard stop as well as slightly at slow speeds(doesn't feel like abs tripping) i took the rotors and had them cut, re-installed and made no difference. im taking it to dealer this week regardless, but the only thing that makes sense is rear drums,brakes? anybody else have this issue?
  • duke30duke30 Posts: 2
    86,000 kms on my truck on my second set of pads this year will soon have to replace my rotors i put on six months ago. Front disc grab and stick on occasionally and can smell burning in cab.I have had it to several garages tell me they cannot find problem.I replaced calipers anyway and pins are clean and new.Seems to be worse on passenger side,braking hardest. Anyone have any ideas?
  • chomp1974chomp1974 Posts: 7
    edited April 2010
    I recently changed the front pass wheel bearing hub assembly 2001 Silverado 4x4 and now everytime I go to use the brakes the ABS is kicking in making it actually hard to stop. No ABS light coming on or other problems noted. I have removed the ABS fuse and everything is back to normal but technically there is no ABS capabilities right now. I was surprised that the ABS light has not come on on the instrument panel---PUZZELED--anybody come across this?????? I personally do not like ABS anyway.
  • edb3163edb3163 Posts: 2
    I have a 2006 1500 crew cab, recently i installed 22" wheels and tires. Since i put these wheels on the front end shakes and vibrates. I have replaced rotors and pads on the front, and still the front end vibrates. I have drums on the rear and was gonna replace them next to see if it made a difference. I stumbled on this site and figured I would inquire before I do any further repairs/mods that will cost me more money. Could someone help me determine what my next move should be?
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,057
    I am from GM Customer Service. I would recommend taking it to the dealership to have the concern diagnosed. Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • akjbmwakjbmw Posts: 231
    Since the change was adding the wheels and tires, have a tire shop with the appropriate equipment check that the wheel/tire assembly is balance and true.
    If the front and rear are the same size, see if rotating them makes the problem move.
  • stutsstuts Posts: 2
    just bought used gmc z71 sierra and found abs fuse pulled. well i replaced it wow talk about affecting braking almost hit someone and pulled fuse immediatly.been doing some research 700.00 to replace unit . is it worth it ? does it affect four wheel drive wheel sensoring . can just the electronics be repaired or does the whole unit have to be replaced? please help! maybe a pulled fuse is the only answer will say the location of ehcu is poor at best hoo ray for our engineers in design 101
  • edb3163edb3163 Posts: 2
    I replaced the tires, computer balanced them. The vibration got better but still there. Could it be the rotors? wheel bearings? What else could it be?
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