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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Brake Problems



  • hello duke 30 I am haveing the same problem on my 2005 gmc sierra 1500 ,the front brakes grab and hold and stick on ,but then other thimes they work fine ,I replaced the front flex hoses and the calipers seem to be free ,wondering if its in the abs contoller ?
  • IA couple months ago I had a discussion with a GM mechanic and he told me it was probably the master cylinder.He took my master cylinder off and it tested fine,so he drained all the brake fluid and replaced it with new. Brakes are fine now, he said there must have been some dirt in it blocking a port occasionally, thus not releasing pressure from the calipers.Hope this helps.
  • I'm having similar issues with my 05 Sierra 1500 4x4, extended cab with the 5.3L and 49,500 miles. My ABS is coming on when pulling up to a stop - usually under 5 mph. I don't have the light or any codes. I replaced the rotors and brake pads with new. I checked the calipers to see if they were extending and they were. The only difference I saw was that they didn't extend equally. I don't know why this is but since both sides do it, I figure it must be designed this way. I checked the old pads and rotors and they looked fine - no abnormal/uneven wear, no signs of overheating, warpage etc. The issues are still present, any help troubleshooting this problem would be greatly appreciated.

    Derek @
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Could be dirty wheel speed sensors. They are known to cause pulsation when braking.
  • My similar problem was remedied by flushing the brake fluid after pads, rotors, one caliperand brake hose and two quarts of brake fluid. Also I used synthetic grease on the caliper rails that receive the brake pads. good luck!
  • I measured the resistance across the sensor this morning. The readings came in at 1047 and 1037 ohms. Any idea what the spec is for the 2005 model year? The haynes manual says the 1999-2002 years should be 850-1230 ohms so it seems I'm in the right ballpark. Would dirty sensors still have the proper resistance? Thanks for your help.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    The specs for the 2005 should be the same as the 2002. After I sold my Silverado and Denali, I dumped the factory service manuals so I can't tell you if the resistance reading is relevant to how dirty the sensor might be. I didn't take a reading on mine rather pulled the wheels and sensors and blasted them with brakekleen. The pulsations went away after I did the cleaning.
  • I had the same problem with the ABS coming on every time I hit the brakes at slow speeds. I took it to the dealer and they said it was a bad slow speed sensor.
  • mpitmpit Posts: 1
    I took my 2000 Sierra, with 71,000 miles, to two different places yesterday one an authorized GMC dealer and the other a Tuffy Muffler repair facility. They both think it is the speed sensors as well. AFter they put in new sensors the problem still exists. Now they want to replace the wheel bearings. They think the bearings might be going bad which causes a vibration in the sensors which in turn applys the ABS breaks.

    I also have a 2003 Sonoma with 19,000 miles on it. The rotors rusted out and GM refused to do anything about it. It is stil under the 7 yr/50,000 mile GMPP warranty.

    In all honesty I will never ever buy another GM product again. They make very cheap [non-permissible content removed] parts that are doomed to premature failure and then do noting to stand behind their product.
  • trust me, its the wheel bearings. As soon as i changed the wheel bearing, the whole situation was fixed. Turns out that when the wheel bearing wobbles, it confuses the abs sensor, which causes it to kick in, and when that happens, your a rider, and Lookout!! free dent. bp
  • jimp99jimp99 Posts: 4
    Chevy did a terrible job with their (DESIGNED TO RUST) brake systems in the early 2000's. As for the RUSTY brake line issue if you want to tackle it yourself my way was to order all the metal lines (7 total) from Out of Mich. It took about 6 to 7 hrs with a helper some of the time. Get the 4 bleeders and fluid from the auto parts store before you start also. My Bleeders were trashed and only one worked. The others RUSTED off even with the rubber cover still on. The 10mm wrench removed them fairly easily but had to us a smaller wrench on one due to the RUSTING issue. The line going to the back brakes was the toughest to get out and in. Its a very tight fit. They did a Great job bending, flaring and installing the proper fittings. They almost fit perfect. I ordered the stainless for $200 but the steel are $160. I called them they had to ask me 3 questions about my 02 crew cab HD and it took about a week for them to send them because they are VERY BUSY making them. When my fuel lines RUST thru I will order them from inlinetube also.
    FYI: my 4wd just took a dump today with 6" of snow and I still have an anti-lock brake that activating at less than 5 mph(been a 4 yr issue). Next truck will be a Toyota
  • 2002 pick up,150k, ..... Had the dealer recall done, 2-3 yr ago, 120k miles,,. Problem went away for a while, but now, all most everytime I stop at low speeds, the brakes most certainly fail. I called the dealer to see what they said, being it was repaired before. I was under the impression parts were replaced I was informed, the sensors just had air blew on them to clean dirt, etc. It's not in the wheel bearings , as they failed at 95k. Dealer said they would gladly charge me $300 to check and $1000+ to fix them, but could not say it wouldn't happen again. lol...
    I am ready to take this to the auction as i would never want to sell this to someone knowing the problems.

    Is there anything I can do my self, parts to replace, etc for this? I know the brake lines are another issue to deal with. Have not had the lines break yet ! Thanks
  • Dude-Change your wheel bearings NOW. I had the exact same problem, and i went to LOWES. BAM, right into one of those big yellow poles.
    I checked everywhere on this, but no one knew what to do, til i found this forum. I ordered a set of wheel bearings with the abs sensors attached on Ebay. They were alot less than the chevrolet dealership. I put them on myself, hooked up the abs sensor hook up, and they work perfectly now. No braking problems at ALL. Just wish i had found out earlier before i got that new nice bend in my front bumper, and bent curtain that goes into the tire well.

    Do change the wheel bearings, This is an accident waiting to happen.
    The way it was explained to me, at slow speeds, the bearing Wobbles, this causes the ABS sensor to get confused, and when you brake at slow speeds, the abs sensor activates, so you have NO stopping at ALL.

    I assure you that this WILL fix your problem. For your own safety, check the bearings.
  • I was learning to deal with this, but ya, yesterday, all most went thru the convience store window. I'll do them this week, as that is an easy job. I will post as soon as I do, to let all know how it works. I will be able to tell as soon as it's done, Thanks.
  • chh76chh76 Posts: 1
    New to the forum, need some help to quell a concern with a dealer shop that I've had previous concerns with (many years have passed and I was willing to give another shot for convenience sake).

    Would appreciate any feedback on the probability (likely/unlikely) that the rear brake shoes would be worn to 15% at 48K miles. I've always gone through about 2 sets of front pads for every rear shoe replacement.

    So I took it in for front pads (not squealing but figured I was close with the mileage and it was a convenient timing) and asked for a check on the rear shoes. Call back was that the rear shoes were worn down to 15% and needed replacing. Seemed like too much so I said I'd like to come in and look. Got back to the shop around closing, front job had not been completed so it was still on the lift with rear drums removed for me to take a look. Sure enough, they were worn down. Asked if that was a little early and they said yes but no explanation as to why or any other concerns with other rear brake components.

    I asked to see the front brake pads that had been removed. Since I had preauthorized their replacement, I never got a read on how worn they were and I wanted to compare assuming front wears quicker than rear. They had thrown those away. Guess that's normal but they would have been nice to see.

    So I'd appreciate opinions on whether I'm making too much of this or... Should I be concerned that they told me they needed replacing when they didn't and when I said I wanted to look, they had time to put on worn shoes from another vehicle for my inspection.

    I'm having the rear shoes replaced. I've asked to keep the old ones that I inspected and they will be removing. If I should be concerned, is their any way to tell whether the old shoes are original parts to the truck?

  • jimp99jimp99 Posts: 4
    The 4WD issue I had in post 310 is the transfer case motor module. From what I have read it is another GM ABORTION on these trucks! I lemon lawed a 2000 silverado and then bought a 2002 2500HD. Never again!
    Boy was I stupid!!!! :lemon: :lemon: :lemon: :lemon:
  • max103max103 Posts: 3
    i have a 2000 gmc sierra 4wd i replaced 3 brake lines going to the front now i have no brakes we have bled these brakes and bled them same results all these lines go into some sort of junction box about mid ways on the frame i dont know what this junctin box is it seems to have some sort of electrical motor attached to it im trying to find out if we done something wrong or did we miss something . any heip would be helpful thanks
  • max103max103 Posts: 3
    i have a 2000 gmc sierra 4wd i replaced 3 brake lines going to the front now i have no brakes we have bled these brakes and bled them same results all these lines go into some sort of junction box about mid ways on the frame i dont know what this junction box is it seems to have some sort of electrical motor attached to it am trying to find out if we done something wrong or did we miss something . any help would be helpful thanks
  • Dont feel bad, my 2001 1500 started with a light that said check 4wd. The mechanic said it was sand in the sensors, (had taken it to Fla on vacat.) He said to blow them out. I did, no avail, lite still on. Then another mechanic said it was the thing on the front hub, so i changed that, 150.00, Nope, not that either. Another mechanic said it was the thing on the transfer case, 230.00, Wasnt tht either. I bought a push button selector on ebay for 43.00, Guess what, that was it. I spent 380.00 cause a "Trained" mechanic at Chevy said that was what was wrong.
    My next truck will be a HONDA. Wife has had 2 hondas, the first was totaled from the back, [non-permissible content removed] was in the back seat, SHE DROVE IT HOME!! This one is still going, and going, and going, and going!!
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