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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Brake Problems



  • On two differant occasions I paid $1003.00. My back lines went out 4 weeks before my front lines. Now I think I have leaks in my transmission line to the radiator. I think Chevrolet should help with these costs. My 2000 has only 36,000 miles on it has only been in the snow about 3 times.
  • $1003.00 twice, I can buy 4- 500.00 junkers to run til the wheels fall off, and they will STILL probably outlive a Chevy truck for that price. NO OFFENSE, My chevy has a ruined front bumper and skirt, already, from brake failure, so i have NO intention of replacing the lines. When they blow, i'll just get a load of cow manure, fill the bed, and have a small tomato patch in the back of the thing. I call this thing the "Flower Pot" anyway !!
  • Hey Jim, I stumbled on your post here looking for a solution to abs light. I have read a lot of your post and I feel your pain. Although I have owned my 2001 gmc 2500 hd going on 10 years now. I have paid dearly to keep it on the road with hard earned money and a lot of grief. I hope you know, gm is not the only manufacture that dose not care about having repeat customers. Especially if those customers want to keep their vehicles more then two years. You should google Nissan transmission complaints. Here is one I found
    I hope the xterra you bought doesn't cost you more than it is worth. Apparently the 05 -07 (maybe other years, I read so many I got depressed and had to quite) frontiers, xterras and pathfinders have problems with the radiator leaking coolant into the transmission cooling lines causing total transmission failure to the point they are not repairable. From what I read it is about 5k - 6k for new radiator and transmission.
    According to what I read, Nissan doesn’t care that their customers are having to pay for their mistakes also, or that they may loose their life. I guess as long as the ceo and the rest of the corporate yahoos makes there millions the hell with customer. They’re more suckers born everyday ;[
    Toyota makes there share of blunders also but from what I have read they own up to some of them (google Tacoma frame complaints) .
    Lucky for us consumers, we have the internet to warn others and to learn from other lessons.
    Maybe these manufactures will figure out they need to stand behind their vehicles and customers or they end up just like there vehicles, in the scrap pile.
    I apologize for the rant. I really just wanted to warn you about your xterra and thank you for your post.

    Mad Michael
  • When engineering a part or system that affects life safety, engineers are trained to apply high factor of safety level ( 3x+). As an engineer, you are also trained to design so that that there is not a sudden failure without warning ( seeping is one thing, a bursting line is another). Metal brake lines affect life safety and selecting the proper metal for the your application (e.g. NE states that utilize salt on roads on which the said vehicle is expected to travel) is not that complex. Failing brake lines within 40,000 miles or just one year out of warranty is a complete failure of engineering or the unfortunate result of poor failure mode analysis when cost cutting. Ignoring the problem after real life data proves the mistake is worse. It demonstrates clear lack of responsibility or a total failure of the organization if employees are not empowered to act upon such an obvious failure. This isn't a radio that is failing, it is people's SAFETY!

    Mechanical and earlier than expected failures occur, but when it comes to lives, a totally different approach is expected. Purposeful ignorance of this issue by GM Customer Service is proof that the organizational failure within still exists today.
  • You could not of said it better. I haven't heard of any one being killed or injured, but I was lucky that I was pulling into a parking spot with a metal guard rail to stop me when my brakes failed. One would think being there was a recall for the brake sensors not working, GM would have gone farther to make things right. I know they read these post, as they did contact me thru this forum, but in the end, they would not do anything, unless I paid for it.
  • Thanks for the heads up. I have a great friend that is a certified FORD trained mechanic. I'll get him to go with me when i pick up the Nissan (only costing me 1000.00), and get him to run the computer to see what comes up. Luckily, i havent paid the guy anything yet, but am supposed to soon. He's a friend too, and is holding it for me with no money down. Says that the trans. worked fine til he put a new timing chain (?) on it, and then 2nd gear started acting up, so maybe its got the wrong timing belt/chain on it.

    I do appreciate the words of warning, i'll check into that.

    Ya know, the complete truth is, i've owned Chevy trucks since i graduated high school in 1979, at least half a dozen or more. I really, REALLY, like the old Chevy trucks, from 1987 back til 77' . Mind you, their bodies did rust out pretty bad, but they would last FOREVER, and you could actually work on them YOURSELF!! But when GM decided to make them where you couldnt work on them yourself, and make them cheaper, so they could jack up the prices, and pay their UNION employees over 20.00 an hour, GM went to S--t. They are no different than ALL the other car companies. Like my dad used to say- "PUT EM' ALL IN A BAG, SHAKE EM' UP, AND SHAKE EM' OUT- AND YOU CANT TELL THEM APART- THAT ALL LOOK THE SAME".

    Myself included, AMERICANS (most of us anyways) are getting FAT and LAZY, and we want it EASY. We can only blame ourselves for letting GM and all the other companies stick it to us, because we take what we get, instead of saying NO, and turning our backs. In 1979 you could buy a SILVERADO brand new for 8000.00, Today, thats not even a good downpayment!! HEY- WE ASKED FOR IT!! Thanks, JIM said that!!
  • I have replaced rubber hoses to rotors.When i apply my brakes say a dozen time the pedal will get hard and the brakes will start to grabe and i have to pull over and bleed the brakes.Any ideas
  • I gotta thank everyone who gave me input and helped me fix my rusted brake line prob. My 99 Silverado (249,000+ miles) lost brakes as I stopped at an exit at work (yes I'm lucky). Pep Boys quoted $3000 for the job (replace lines and calipers). Took me a long weekend, but I replaced the lines and calipers (bleed screws were jammed super tight and rounded off) and it works like new. From this post someone gave me a sight that offered exact replacements (stainless lines and fittings) for $299 and the calipers were about $150. Then, because I'm not smart enough to make diagrams another person gave me an exact connection to the ABS controller. Bled the system and it's better than new. Found about 4 pin hole leaks in the old lines (most in tight spaces where I couldn't see them without the aid of mirror). Figured I saved about $2500, but lost a weekend.
  • My Z71 has been having an on going ABS problem at low speeds. I thought it was a faulty wheel speed sensor. I replaced both sensors. Now the problem is more consistent. It kicks in at 5 mph everytime. The truck has New brakes all around, New Master cylinder, and a totaly flushed system. The one thing I was leaning tord replacing next is the Wheel Hubs. I did notice grease down inside the hole along the sensor trace. Is it normal to have alot of grease in there?
  • Not sure about the grease, but your problem was/is the same as mine, same truck, 2002. I did what you have done and replaced the hubs. I replaced the hubs because the bearings went bad at 95,000 mile. That did nothing to help for the brake problem. I finally took the ABS fuse out as a suggestion from a mechanic. Not a problem since I did 2 yrs/20k miles ago. The ABS light will come on. It even passes the tuff PA state inspection with that way. I will say, I do not have the brake line failure problem others have. Mine was all in the ABS.
  • Thanks.. Ive done that for the last week. I am concered about the NY state Insp. I would like to get the problem fixed however if I have to drive with the ABS and Brake light on I will. Its just frustrating.
  • Jim here, Just wanted to say that the grease your having in the sensor trace is reminescent of a bad wheel bearing. That bad wheel bearing is what is confusing the abs sensor at 5 mph. My wheel bearing was bad enough to confuse the abs sensor, but not bad enough to notice a wobble.
    Might be a good idea to check that bearing before you lose a wheel, or brakes. Like i posted many times, i had to hit a BIG yello pole at Lowes, to keep from ramming a car in the parking lot, due to NO BRAKES.
    Good luck. Welcome to the JOYS of CHEVY OWNERSHIP!!
    Jim said that!!
  • I did not have any problem with PA state inspection with the ABS light on. If you do, just simply put the fuse back in. Like Jim said, check the wheel bearing for wobble. I had to replace mine for bad bearings,. It went bad with no warning. One day fine, the next day loud noise and I could feel it in the steering. It just didn't help the ABS problem.

    Has pulling the fuse helped ? I noticed the better braking right away.
  • Thanks for all the help. I did notice a lot better braking with the fuse pulled. I haven't noticed any abnormal pulling or noise yet from the truck. The truck has been great for me. Its ten years old now and I really haven't had to do anything to it. Hopefully it will hold out for another ten years. Thanks again for the help. I will keep you posted.
  • jcmoore2jcmoore2 Posts: 7
    I changed the wheel hubs. before I did I noticed a load wheel noise from the front end that started around 40 mph. It almost sounded like I was driving with mud tires. It took me three hours to do both sides. It took about twenty min with an air chisel to get the hubs off. If someone was to try to do this at home, you will need a 55 torx, 15 mil , 18 mil, 33 mil (4x4 models), a torque wrench that will reach 177 FT LBs, and a chisel with a big hammer or air. The hubs do not like to come off with out a fight! Thank you all for the help. My ABS problem is fixed. The new sensers I put in a month ago are toast. The drivers side was cooked. the plasic was melted and the target was covered in grease. Its nice to drive the truck with no lights on the dash. Thanks again for the help
  • jcmoore2jcmoore2 Posts: 7
    sorry I meant 36 mil not 33.
  • sjc66sjc66 Posts: 1
    edited May 2012
    I have an 04 Sierra 1/2 ton and have braking issues as the truck does not want to stop like it should. I have replaced the rotors and pads and have function tested the calipers and everything seems to be working. The pedal has pressure and doesn't lose any pressure when braking so I'm thinking the master cylinder is fine. The wheel hubs all appear to be good and I don't have any lights on the dash or error codes indicating an ABS issue. Going to bleed the lines to see if that does anything. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  • mrfixit911mrfixit911 Posts: 31
    2002 silverado, problems starting at 4 yrs old and 95k.

    My problem was slightly different is that the pedal would pulsate as if ABS was activating causing the brakes to slightly loose pressure as if in a accident. After doing all you did, I finally pulled the ABS fuse and cure problem. If you want to see if that is the problem, pull the fuse and see if that helps. ABS light will come on but brakes work fine. Been that way for 4-5 yrs and 50k miles now.
  • ffej24mffej24m Posts: 2
    The initial problem was the truck shuddering while stopping so I changed the front rotors and pads to slotted and drilled rotors and ceramic bads. This did nothing to stop the shuddering, so I took it to the GM dealer and had it diagnosed they claimed the front rotors were warped "extremely hard to believe" i asked the dealer to check the runout and make sure before turning these new rotors. After turning the rotors this still didn't help the shuddering. Dealer did more investigation and came to the conclusion that the back brakes were work out and sticking, so those were changed and the drums turned. Still didn't help the shuddering so the dealer now believes a belt has come loose in the tire and I need to take them back to the tire shop. So back to the tire shop and talked to the tech there, he explained they have an '05' that was doing the exact same thing and its the rear brake shoe's grabbing and he didn't know why. He clamped off my rear brake lines to remove the rear brakes from the system and we tried driving the truck again, this time no shuddering. So took the truck back to the dealer and told him what we found. Dealer did some investigating and found that GM has seen this problem before and that the cause is the center hole in the drum is larger than the flange on the rear axle that it fits over and the drum is not going on perfectly square so when you hit the brakes one shoe is grabbing and the other isn't therfore causing the shuddering. To fully determine if this is the case the dealer will need the truck for 8 hours to mic everything and document it "what do they need the truck for the next 6 hours for?". GM's fix is to replace the axels and all brake hardware to correct the issue.
    Has anyone else heard of this or had this problem - or is the dealer full of BS?
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