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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Brake Problems

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Comments

  • ttaupier1ttaupier1 Posts: 50
    Rear rotors are sometimes ..a pain, my guess is the inside pads, inside the hub are still contacting the rear hub, you might see if there is an alignment screw.. holding them on, if not try lifting the truck enough to get under the parking brake linkage and see if you can get some release with wd40 .. on the linkage... and ensure that the parking brake is not set .. I remember mine were a struggle to get off but then i let the parking brake off and they slide right off, with a little effort from a rubber hammer
  • dsmasondsmason Posts: 1
    Have you had any luck? Same issue w/ my 05 and dealer has given up. Replaced shoes,cut drums cleaned up all hardware, run test on abs components. Anyone?
  • alc8alc8 Posts: 4
    maybe someone can help. left front rotor refuses to move for replacement. right front came off with a littlebit of time but no luck on this side. any suggestiohs on what to try?
  • istijsistijs Posts: 1
    Ok here it is, Since 2002 New truck, I've put 3 rotors and 4 sets of brake pads on my truck and only have 56,000 miles on it. While towing a trailer loaded with 4 Harleys from Laconia NH a month ago, A car stopped short infront of me and I felt the brake peddle go right to the floor. I pulled over safely and checked it out and saw my brake line had busted above the left wheel well. Brake fluid was pouring out everytime the brake peddle was pressed. Since we had my tool box and some small SS hose clamps, we took a SS braided vent hose from one of the harleys and used it to fix the rusted broken brake line. We filled the master cylinder with DOT 3 fluid and our patch held from NH to New Jersey. After seeing every brake line on the truck was rusted beyond believe, I had my repair shop replace every brake line with an Alloy Chrome Tube system with Stainless fittings and new brake rotor's, brake calipers, all Brake hoses and Master Cylinder. I am cleaning all the frame rust off now and using POR 15 to coat all rusted surfaces that are rusted. My repair shop "Kotche's Repairs" is kind enough to let me use his lift so I can put this protective coating on every rusted and non rusted piece of my Chevy Silverado Duromax Truck. Perhaps a back charge to Chevy is warranted. I have not gotten the bill for this work yet not to mention putting my life my wife's life and 2 dear friends' lifes in danger. yours, Not happy with Chevy in NJ
  • preddypreddy Posts: 1
    I am new to this forum but I have just experienced the "rusty" brake line problems that others have mentioned. I had one brake line rust out causing brake failure, the dealer says all four lines need to be replaced as the are also rusty. This is after having replace all four routers last year because of excessive rust. I had the recall for the anti-lock repair done which is when they hit me up on the brake routers. Ever since the recall my truck would not want to stop at slow speeds. This was an not 100% of the time, but when it happened it made you question weither the truck would realy stop. It would shudder like the anti-lock sensor was kicking on.

    Would like to know how many others have had their brake system fail because of rusting brake lines? Rusty routers, and anti-lock problems. Why there is not a GM recall to fix or a class action to correct if GM will not!

    As a retired GM employe I am sad that GM has not stepped up to their brake problems.
  • ttaupier1ttaupier1 Posts: 50
    Please see my other posts, there are a lot of customers with your problems, there is a post i had from other blogging sites that have had the same issues and concerns as you.

    I believe in most of my posts explain most of your thoughts based on experience an opinion
  • Can someone please explain how to change the front brake pads on a 2005 Silverado. What size wrench do you need and do you remove 4 bolts or just 2?
  • hey all was wandering if anyone could help i have a 85 chevy truck ive been having trouble with the front passenger brkes sticking , so i put new caliper on that side with brakes and problem is still there caliper sticks and cause brakes and rotor to heat up any suggestions?
  • there is only two and i believe they r a 3/8 allen head
  • Identical issue here. I thought I was reading a post by myself! I have had my truck in for new brake pads and rotors 3x since purchase. Just this week brake line ruptured and took into dealer. I need to replace basically from the brake pedal to the brakes due to rust. Dealer blames it on vehicle sitting for extended times (which it does but on pavement). $6000 to repair with $1700 in labor just for brake lines alone. If anyone has information on this being a common issue with 2002 vehicles please let me know. Thanks.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    $6000 to repair with $1700 in labor just for brake lines alone.

    That's nuts. You should check out an independent mechanic. Even with replacing with all stainless steel hardware it would be no where near that price. And while I've heard of some having brake line issues I have never heard of that kind of price to replace. Most of the people that were having problems was due to salt on the roads.
  • Hey there,

    Mine is a 2003, and yes mine is inside a garage all the time, I power washed the engine last week, and noticed many lines rusting and looking very ...(99K miles) old. Not sure WHY >> my truck is garaged 90% of the time. Looks like GM used sub standard steel lines from Vendor "D"...who used bad alloys.. cheepest supplier

    6k seems very steep but then again if you have to do all the lines your looking at 8-10hrs of work, not to mention all the bending/fitting, that is if they don't make a kit to replace.. old lines. I love my truck an not planning on trading her in, but these brake issues really rub me the wrong way..

    I have other posts here for the past few years with multiple break/brake posts

    :cry:
  • On the way home from the dealership my service brakes soon light came on. I called the dealership and was told it is probably a computer hick up!! I returned the next day 180 mile round trip. They cleared the code and sent me on my way. 20 miles later the message appeared again I went back. This time they looked at the brakes and had to take on O ring off of a new silverado on the lot to put on mine. The brakes are currently fine. I think the salesman held my satisfaction with my new truck higher than the safety of my Wife and I. "A COMPUTER HICK UP?"
  • We had the same grinding noise this week on our '04 Silverado 1500. Inner right rear pad was worn down metal to metal. The other 3 pads in great shape. Repair place had a copy of chevy bulletin 00-05-23-005B, dated May 27, 2003 explaining this problem affecting trucks from 1999-2004. Both GMC & Silverado half tons. Excessive wear to right inner pad caused by mud being slung from front to rear tire. Solution is to install mud flaps. Why were we not told of this need for mud flaps when we bought the vehicle (Dec of 2003, after bulletin was published) and why did Chevrolet decide not to install these mud flaps on all the new trucks as soon as they discovered the problem? Now we have had to pay for repairs that could have been avoided if the mud flaps had been there to protect us. I have called Chevrolet but they are giving me the run around and not much hope for reimbursement. There was a known design flaw in the vehicle, causing damage to the rear break and they do nothing? Negligence? I would say so...
  • ziggy63ziggy63 Posts: 2
    Wow- it's like deja vu all over again! I bought a '99 Sierra 1500 2wd extended cab new. I've now had it 9 years and 110,000 miles. The first time I was approaching a stop and hit a small bump the brakes went away while the ABS chattered. I complained to the dealer and got nowhere. I also posted on whatever Edmunds sites existed then and saw lots of other people with the same problem. I assumed GM had fixed it after '99, but apparently not. It happens every time under those conditions. I treat it like wheel lockup and take my foot off and immediately reapply the brakes. It's a workaround, but a major safety defect. It's probably time to pull the fuse.
    I've replaced my rotors twice and they need it again. My brake shop said the OEM stuff is junk, and the parking brake design is useless. Mine's been gone for years. I also had a brake line rot out before 100,000 miles, which I've never seen on any vehicle before. I remember the sales literature bragged about "aluminized" brake lines. That must have meant aluminum paint on the junkiest material they could find. It's criminal. I had it fixed, but now I don't trust the other lines. I need to keep the truck 2 more years. Where did your shop find the replacement hard lines? I'm considering stainless steel, but so far am only finding the braided flexible lines. GM should be held responsible for this. People have probably died already, but perhaps no one except we who own these trucks knows why.
  • HI Deja-vu, (ziggy)

    there are several on line dealers for break lines.. I have not replaced mine, but was researching for sure over the past 4-6 months.

    1) http://www.classictube.com/products.asp

    2) http://www.inlinetube.com/ (<< seemed to have best inventory of prefab replacement)

    good luck
  • Thanks,TT. I had been to both those sites (saw them in Hemming's).
    Inline has nothing listed, Classic does, although I have to call to see if it's right, since the listing is vague. By the way, the URL for SSBC is http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/. SSBC.com gets you to the South Shore Baseball Club, which is a whole different matter. Did you do anything about the proportioning valve when you did your brakes? I'm tempted to follow your example. The new rotors and calipers are very pretty.
  • Hi Ziggy, thanks for the web correction I'Il will go back and change it... LOL,

    As far as the proportioning, no I did not changed anything, just the calipers, the setting was probably set up right from the factory, its just that the rear slider pins on the rear Calipers were rusted/frozen, (truck was 1.5 years old) and I felt that the RManufactured/rebuilt calipers might be the same as far as break response(very weak). So I just swapped the rear calipers and all the rotors on all 4 wheels. Also swapped the brake hoses for braided SS lines from Russel... very sweet response. Pedal feel is so solid my wife loves to drive the truck-she feels like shes in a nascar.. we both road in ...in Florida

    This stuff was so easy to do I started wondering why GM just doesn't do something, I would gladly pay for an upgrade like this from the factory.. Brakes/tranny/engine/interior are the core of every vehicle

    And in the next 3-4 years when I trade or sell the beast, I will be looking for a anther BRAND... They seem very lazy on the marketing and customer service/response side. and With todays economy customer loyalty will be the difference between a job or no job. (GM or no GM)

    My dealer/sales guy knows everything I did, because I documented the work and gave several color copies packets of the documented work that the sales guy..he has been handing them out to some customers that can't get service to solve the issue...
  • I have TERRIBLE brakes on my truck and replaced the pads and rotors up front.
    What did you changed to get a solid feel on the pedal?
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