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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Brake Problems



  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    he added stainless steel brakelines.
  • Hi Bob, (check out my other posts) I actually have photos on my profile

    Started where you are at back in 2004, I started to research and selected a few affordable components.

    I selected SSBC and their coated rotors, then i selected the the rear OEM replacement calipers (tri-piston), (that fit with OEM coated rotors and PADs)

    I replaced all Rotors and Pads, + rear calipers....then i also replaced the caliper hoses with Russel SSbrake lines...

    The Guys @ SSBC laughed at me and said i should also replace the front calipers, I did not.. saved 1500... and time. Not sure who is laughing hehehehe

    65K and the breaks are 10% used... i also used to commute and drive in Boston for the past 2 years. I also have a good bit more brake dust on the rear wheels... BTW the wheels i have are 17in Denali, wheels (much larger) . from a ebay that where take offs
  • #24 of 105
    2003 GMC Sierra 1500ext (5.3L) by ttaupier1
    May 05, 2007 (8:57 am)

    this was my first post here.....
  • I have 63,452 miles on my 2003 GMC Sierra 1500 Crew cab. I have replaced the brakes pads, rotors and batter. The brake petal still gets hard to press on after a while and the brakes seem like they are sticking. I have talked to a few repair people and tried every thing they suggested. Has anyone had this problem and do you have any other suggestions.
  • Hey Fuson,

    sounds like a caliper issue, can they replace the calipers with rebuilt or new ones, if the calipers were not sliding on the guide pins they would,likely compress and then not release causing hard pedal and a lot of work to press and give a feel of sticking..., you could replace the guide pins and grease them...for both front and rear calipers

    or just replace the calipers with OEM after market, so you wont have to get larger wheels

    let us know what you find..
  • Hi All,

    I own a 2001 Silverado with 45K miles. Looks brand new on the outside and inside. The wife took the garbage down to the dumpster and complained she had to pump the brakes to stop because they when down to the floor. I pulled right front wheel off and saw the pads where in great shape. I noticed fluid under the drive side of the truck. Put my fingers in the fluid and determined it to be brake fluid. I look up next to the frame and saw all brake lines where rusted badly. This should not happened. I have had cars in the Chicago area with lots of salt and this has never happened! I not live in Missouri where winters are mild and salt use is a fraction of the Chicago area. GM has a problem here that needs to be fixed. I have been searching the net and many people with different GM models are having this same problem. Someone can get killed or seriously injured because of this! Time to go to war over this!

  • I urge everyone that has a GM truck with rusted brake lines to goto
    and file a complaint. Consumer Affairs will evaluate and see if a class action suite is in order. Make it happen complain now!
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    While complaining is good, how does it help you now? Certainly you can't wait for results from Consumer Affairs or the NHTSA? I mean if it's leaking now what's a person to do?
  • we have a 2003 sierra 4x4, changed the front calipers and pads. now we can't seem to bleed them properly, why. we have done the front and now tried bleeding back to front, but still we have to push the brake pedal all the way down. back calipers and pads are good, didn't need to be changed. if it is air locked how do we get the air out? :mad:
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    If you didn't change the calipers on the rear why would you have to bleed them? Aren't there seperate brake lines running to the front and to the rears?
  • I have a 2006 silerado 1500. It has 31K miles. Still under facotry warranty. I was feeling and hearing a terrible "grinding". I check the fronr drivers side and noticed gouges/engraving in the solid metal behind the rim. I am not very mechanical so unsure what everthing is. Anyway, I talked to a few people and they say a calliper may be sticking. The gouges were only on one side. I took it to dealer and they say its is due to normal wear. Anyone know that to be true. I the calliper is malfunction, caused brake pad to wear down to "metal on Metal." should warranty cover entire repair. Keep in mind, I am not hard on the brakes. If it was normal wear would both right and left side be equally worn? Or did a calliper problem on left side cause damage to brakes? Dealership says I now need new brakes and pads, not to mention tire rotation at a cost to me of $480.00 If that right or am I getting screwed? Should I fight with dealer to cover damages under warranty? Please give me mechanical advise on what to ask dealership about.... :cry:
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    The dealer is blowing smoke. This repair should be covered under warranty as it appears that the caliper did indeed seize causing premature wear and the result being metal to metal. The brakes shouldn't be showing that type of wear at 31K miles unless something malfunctioned. The fact that the dealer said it was normal wear on the left while the right showed no signs of failure is an attempt to get you to spend your money to repair a warranty item.

    If I were you I'd take my truck to another Chevy dealer cause the one you're dealing with is full of it.
  • After the shudder stopped I got out and found the driver side rear tire dragging as we backed up .
    A closer look and we saw the calliper hanging off its mount.
    No bolt and the calliper mount was broken in 1/2.
    It looks like a casting flaw.
    I will check with GM Canada and report back.
    Does any one know how to pull the driver side axel out?
    The mount kit is $240.00 from Dealer.Thanks Debb.
  • Hello,I just need some advice on pulling the Driver side rear axel out.
  • OMG! I too have a 2006 Chevy 1500 w/36k miles. Recently we noticed a grinding type noise in the left front. We pulled the tire and could see gouges in the rotor. We took it to a brake shop thinking the pads just needed to be replaced and the rotors grinded down. The brake shop told us to take it back to the dealer that the left front rotor needed to be replaced and that it was a defect. He suspected that the caliper had been stuck and this is what caused the rotor to go bad so soon. I took it yesterday to the dealer, explained what the brake shop said. The service man told me that in all his 15 years of working for Chevrolet he has only had to replace calipers twice. They then charged me $40.00 to diagnos the problem, just to tell me that the calipers were fine and that i needed new brake pads and a new rotor on the left side. I asked him how this could happen to a 2 year old truck and he said "in town driving". I said well if that were the case, wouldn't the right one be the same. He said it was worn, but not as bad as the left. Anyway, $584.00 dollars later, we have it repaired. I still think its a Chevy defect and they just aren't admitting to it and that is why I went searching on the internet and found your comment. I just wish I had found it before I paid for the repairs!
  • feaglefeagle Posts: 3
    i wrote last year about this truck.. when the brakes got hot and melted the hub caps off and cheverlet replaced the booster and that fixed it....but now a year later and only 25,000 miles on it... i had the oil and tire rotation at a road side business and now the brakes are wore out .. im sure that it was from last year when it got so hot..."by the way chevy did not change the brakes on the truck last year" im wondering if chevy will pay for the new brakes?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    if they didn't replace them last year when the 'incident' occured, I seriously doubt that they will pay for it now.
  • joe197joe197 Posts: 1
    If we don,t complain, we will not get any help. I have just replaced all the brake lines on my 2002 GMC 1500 pickup with 110,000 miles. Its is not right that these lines are rusting out so quickly. As with the recall of the rotor sensors GM has made another desiscion to same a buck at our expense by using cheap tubing on the brake lines, with the sensor recall, GM refunded any money that had been spent on repairs prior to the recall. That is why you and all the rest of us should complain to consumer affairs. Who knows if there is a recall it might even save a life. Think, how many people out there have not a clue about the need to replace their lines, before failure.
  • c5nutc5nut Posts: 11
    Was wondering where you were with your brake problem. Your situation sounds very much like mine with my 2000. I haven't tried pulling the fuse yet, that's next. Do you know which components needed cleaning?
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