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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Brake Problems



  • barnowl3barnowl3 Posts: 70
    2003 GMC Sierra HD. Located in upstate NY, so we do get snow and salt. This is an 'HD' truck with the snow plow package, but that is apparently meaningless to GM. Last night, a tractor trailer hit his brakes and my 5000# GMC should have been able to stop quicker. Truck brakes went soft, but luckily I avoided a collision. Turns out brake lines are very rusty and now leaking. I have never in 30 years seen corrosion 'grow' so quickly on brake lines on even 10 year old 100K mile cars and I've lived here all my life.My truck is only 6 yrs old with only 50K miles, this is amazing.
  • ttaupier1ttaupier1 Posts: 50
    Hey BarnOwl,

    A buddy of mine has a 2000 HD Chevy, last week he was plowing and almost lost his rid while plowing. There is a break kit available that has all the lines all measured and bent. he called last friday and the price was about $300 and about 2 weeks away... My past message #99 has some other details... here is the place were we ordered the replacement lines that are stainless steel... LOL >> a lot of good that does all of us owners now... i would have gladly paid the $300 at the time of purchase to know my kids wife and i would be safe from this type of failure...


    good luck guy
  • ttaupier1ttaupier1 Posts: 50
    I urge everyone that has a GM truck with rusted brake lines to goto
    and file a complaint. Consumer Affairs will evaluate and see if a class action suite is in order. Make it happen complain now!
  • barnowl3barnowl3 Posts: 70
    Thanks for the great tip. I knew the SS was available for older cars but did not realize they had them for the newer vehicles. I already dropped the truck off at a local shop, since I don't have the time to do this myself right now or wait for SS. I sure would have gone that route though if I had ordered them in advance.

    A note to all on bleeding brakes on these trucks. The brake booster ( Not sure of all are the same) is actually part of the power steering system. There is special bleeding procedure on the PS steering system which does wonders for the brakes. My PS line corroded last year and when I followed the PS bleeding procedure,my brakes were better than ever. Much better than new in fact. We noticed the brakes sucked on the 2003 as compared to the 2000 and the bleeding process made a huge difference.. The process is documented on those online repair manuals. I used Alldata for my manual.
  • barnowl3barnowl3 Posts: 70
    A note to all on bleeding brakes on these trucks. The brake booster ( Not sure of all are the same) is actually part of the power steering system. There is a special bleeding procedure on the PS steering system which does wonders for the brakes. My PS line corroded last year and when I followed the PS bleeding procedure,my brakes were better than ever. Much better than new in fact. We noticed the brakes sucked on the 2003 as compared to the 2000 and the bleeding process made a huge difference.. The process is documented on those online repair manuals. I used Alldata for my manual.
  • barnowl3barnowl3 Posts: 70
    "Dealer blames it on vehicle sitting for extended times (which it does but on pavement)."

    This dealer should be strapped to the front of my truck ( it too has the rusty lines and NO brakes). Let me see, it is work truck and I can't leave it outside!!!! Do these people even hear themselves speak? I have been a GM person all my life and they have finally lost me. You would think after like 12 warranty repairs, they would give me call and learn! Instead, all they care about is if the dealer treated me well!

    Here are the other lines that rust out early. Mine is an '03 with only 50K in the Northeast.. If you have the engine oil cooler option, that line rots out in like 3 years and you lose your engine oil .... real fast. After 5 years the fuel lines corrode where the nylon line and o-ring meet the steel line, causing a fine fuel spray giving your truck a fine orange glow if you light a match ( recommended). Oh yeah, I almost forgot the power steering line. The only problem there is that you might lose your steering ( best to time that failure with the brakes for some real excitement). My tranny lines should be good for a few more years since they were all replaced under warranty, since they all seeped. Guess 'fluids and materials engineering' is not a required course for engineers at GMI.

    Sorry about the rant, but come on, it was supposed to be a truck.
  • barnowl3barnowl3 Posts: 70
    Just got my truck (2003 GMC 2500 HD) back from my independent shop. They used a copper nickel alloy brake line. I included a link below from a search. It is easy to work with and bend and does not rust. Did not have to wait for GM lines ( which are obviously poorly engineered trash). $70 for the tubing and $296 for ~ 4 hrs of labor to replace both front lines. I'll do them all eventually. These apparently seal better too, which sometimes can be a problem with stainless. Great alternative compared to some of the ridiculous GM dealer prices above. Also note that some car manufacturers are using these lines.

    To further my distrust in any fluid line GM produces: Shop found that my PS cooler and line was leaking. I have one more rusty PS line left to replace now. One of the tranny lines is seeping again ( these were all replaced under warranty already once). If GM would simply correct their design/material flaws it wouldn't be that bad, but who wants to replace their fluid lines 2-3 times, simply because they want to keep a truck for 10 years.

    If anyone has any alternatives to the PS, tranny and brake rotors, please share them.
  • ldsokolldsokol Posts: 14
    After GM tried to do all the repairs on my truck they finally did a repurchase. Unfortunatley I'm not allowed to tell any details, the problems with the brakes where never resolved after 2 years.
  • barnowl3barnowl3 Posts: 70
    Here is the link to report this dangerous problem to the government. Maybe they will trigger a recall. It won't be long before this problems gets worse on the highways. The other site ( consumer affairs) is private site that lawyers troll, so it is not a government agency. Filing a complaint is very easy to do online ( have your VIN). You can also search others complaints and recalls.
  • Is there anything different procedurally that needs to be done when replacing pads on my 2002 1500 that has ABS? I've never had a vehicle that has had ABS before.
  • ttaupier1ttaupier1 Posts: 50
    Hey Blooz,

    No not really, the back discs can some times be tricky if you plan to do the front and rear. Front just pop off watch the nuckles...remember the rear calipers pistons screw/rotate back in and are a pain to get off (parking brake sometimes grabs too).

    I have always turned or replace the rotors ... I think Russel makes a nice braided brake line set for your year, i replaced the OEM hoses and love the feel of the brakes. If you replace the brake hoses, then it is usually a good time to flush the system with new fluid.
  • Thanks. I've looked over the brake lines and they don't look bad to me at this point, but I'll keep that in mind. I have very little rust underneath the truck. We just don't have the salt and moisture problems here in Amarillo that a lot of folks due up North and East.

    I didn't know with the ABS if you have to relieve pressure through the bleeder when compressing the caliper, instead of just putting the C-clamp on there and going for it. Someone at work said that was the way to do it to keep from damaging the solenoid? but I didn't know.
  • ttaupier1ttaupier1 Posts: 50
    i just used a C-clamp... and went slow... if you do use the bleed screw, I would have had to mount the drain hose to help capture the fluid. I was lazy.. and knew i was taking the hose off to replace the with the braided one.

    here are some of my photos..

    so as to not damage anything.. i was not in a rush and did the whole system ( all 4 wheels in about 4.5 hrs with replacing the and bleeding the entire system.. )
  • I am researching problems with the 2003 Chevy Silverado 1500HD Quadrasteer to see if it makes sense to keep it for the long haul or to trade up. I was surprised to hear about the problems reported here with brakes! I have 87000 miles on the truck which I bought new and it still has a ton of pad left on the original ceramic brake pads and the rotors look perfect. I also did not see any unusual corrosion on the brake lines. I live in N. CA so I deal with snow rarely, about 6 times a year as I drive over the mountains to go fishing. I put about 10% of the miles on the truck towing a 3500 lb boat/trailer and launch in salt water about 25 times a year so that would offer the opportunity for corrosion, although I am careful to rince the back of the truck after each trip. The only problem I have with the brakes is that the parking brake has never worked well, I would hate to ever have to rely on it. I have never had brakes that would go this long; I am almost sure I will make 100k miles before they need attention. Not sure what the variations are, but I am thrilled with the brakes on this truck. Now if we could do something about the gas mileage that would be something!
  • 2easy4me2easy4me Posts: 1
    DRIVER #1:
    My right rear disc brake was squealing. Inside brake pad was worn down to metal. Left side was OK but I installed new rear break pads on both wheels. Also had the rotors machined. My problem is, after re-assembling my rear brakes, they drag and don't release.

    DRIVER #2:
    I changed the rear brake pads & rotors. Brakes started overheating- went back in and changed out both calipers... that did fix passenger side, but driver side is still overheating. Is it possible the new caliper is bad? I already checked brake hoses, fluid seems to flow freely.

    Oh yes, that infamous GM right rear brake pad problem. A rapid RIGHT REAR brake pad wear problem is common on most GMC and Chevy trucks made from ’99 to ’04. The right rear brake caliper and pads are located in such a manner that road dirt/mud flies straight into them. This steady diet of grit causes the caliper to seize and the inside brake pad to wear out rapidly, causing the "squealing" or "grinding" noise often reported.

    GM has had a problem with the rear brakes on their light duty trucks. There is a fix. The ALLDATA Information System shows GM Technical Service Bulletin # 00-05-23-005B, which they simply describe is a mud flap kit. This kit addresses the rapid brake pad wear problem. The GM mud flap kit is installed to block bombardment of road dirt and debris that is the cause of this very common problem. The GM kit part number is 15765007 and is pretty easy to install. I would suggest installing the mud flap kit before your next brake job.

    As for the new pads dragging and not releasing, DRIVER #2 was smart to check the fluid flow through the brake hoses, but more commonly, did you compress the caliper pistons in as far as they would go when replacing the pads? Retry depressing the caliper pistons back into the caliper as far as you can; make sure the caliper is loose over the pads as you reinstall it. When you press the brake pedal a few times, it should reset the pistons to where they need to be. If not, bleed the system.

    Also, were the sliders on the calipers free and loose? The sliders are the metal tube the bolts run through to mount the caliper. These allow the caliper to self-adjust as the pads wear down. If these are still seized or "frozen", you are running your brakes as if your pads are still worn, causing much friction with the new thicker pads. You can work them free and grease them, or replace just the slides on the calipers, but often to just replace the complete caliper (AND the mounting bolts), although more expensive, is more likely to be less headache (and safer) in the end.
  • A while back I posted that I was getting a squealing/chirping noise on my '02 1500 4x4. I figured it was the brake pad squealer as I just bought the truck in December. Took all the wheels off today finally, and all the pads are worn evenly and still have about 3/8" left. So the pads aren't worn down. The chirping is speed dependent and never turns into a continous squeal up to about 45 mph, which is where I can't hear it anymore. If I'm going 25-30mph and it's chirping, if I put on the brakes lightly it seems to go away (although it's replaced by brake squeal). I tried shooting brake cleaner on all the pads/rotors today and this made no difference but to quiet the brake squeal down some. My Dad rodei n the back and hung over the rear wheels and said it sounded the same from both sides. The front wheels seemed tight, there was a little play in the rear wheels, but you had to really hoss on the wheel to feel it. Any suggestions onwhere to look next?
  • Had to take the truck out of state for several days and on the drive back the squeaking got worse. Took it to a shop this morning and they said the rear axle is slightly bent causing the hub to wobble and the brake pads to hit and squeak. Great.....$540 + tax.
  • Just turned the rotors and changed my brake pads....Car pulsates now really bad when braking. Did not even do that before I changed them? Help?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Sounds like your rotor(s) have warped. Who turned the rotors?
  • akjbmwakjbmw Posts: 231
    The last time I had rotors turned, the shop made them worse. Because it was just before a long trip, it ended up costing the additional replacement of the unit the brake pads are mounted on due to the vibration.
    I then bought heavy duty rotors and replaced less often. Less stress.
    Replacement rotor cost may come into play when it happens on my current "new-to-me" 2500HD. Bigger usually costs more.
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