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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Brake Problems

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Comments

  • barnowl3barnowl3 Posts: 70
    I was able to replace my front rotors on my 2500HD for about $45 each. Bought them from my local quality parts shop. They were probably still imports, but I can trust these guys to carry good parts. I have not had any problems for a year now ( towing, plowing, hauling). Just watch some of the chain stores that may carry inferior parts.
  • gmmastergmmaster Posts: 1
    NO, your GM tech did not have to remove the park brake shoes to service the rotors and drums. The idiot that said yes, because they touch the rotors, is a buffoon. Well so do the rims and tires, no relation in the big picture. As a GM tech, the poor [non-permissible content removed] was probably fighting scale/rust buildup inside the rotor where dust and moisture accumulate. This creates a deteriorative condition dependant of course on what climate zone you live in, use, non-use , etc, etc. The people here seem to look for someone to hang blame on, mechanics are pirates, GM dealers are scum. GM service managers have bosses, they are called District Service Managers, the DSM is a hitman for GM that ensures no dealers is too "liberal" with warranty. Too many of the same claim as compared to our zone (NE, SE, SW, Mid-west, etc), the dealer gets charged back with "ALL" the cost, some dealers have to write a check for $500K if the DSM has a bug up his pooper about something that caught his/her attention. This is why some dealers are skimpy on warranty. Your "babied, loved, pampered, garage kept jewel, hand built by angels just for you", may be just that. This unfortunately is offset by the guy that claims the same thing, but brake torques his Silverado for his buddies at the fishing camp and screwed GM for 1500 dollars in repairs because he is a whiney [non-permissible content removed] or is friends with someone. A repeat problem fix, because you live in the rust belt say PA ... happens to be in the same zone as Virginia which uses less salt due to climate. The guy in Raleigh and the guy in Pittsburg have 2 different score sheets on rotor rusting. The DSM will be climbing on the guy in PA for his excessive brake warranty as compared to zone.
    I have been doing this with GM for 30 years, this is the skinny on warranty. Trust me when I tell you if a dealer "can" provide warranty, he gets paid, the tech gets paid, it's all good. If the dealer thinks it's marginal, like 27K, you will be buying pads. GM says 12K max for free pad replacement, period. The rotors are another issue, but again at 27K, it's iffy. The dealer is rolling the dice on your loyalty versus your needs. If you get your vehicle serviced at the dealer regularly (even without purchase at that store) and you have a marginal issue, the dealer can "goodwill" at discretion. If you bought there and the deal was kosher, you will get warranty, if you bought out of state for a savings and do your own oil changes, don't ask the dealer to hug you because of your "loyalty", it certainly isn't to the dealer you are crying to.
    Dealers aren't out to screw you, warranty is income, income is king at "any" for-profit business. Do you think if we can get your business without you paying is a bad deal for us, you are wrong. I advise every friend and family member to buy as much extended warranty as possible, for your best interest. Car repairs are far from cheap and door rates almost always exceed $100.00 an hour across the country.
    Back to your rear park brake shoes after that venture to the soap box. Probably after wrestling the rotors off the hub, the scale build-up in side the drum (which happens in Florida, Cali, Washington State, NY and every state in between for one reason or another) it may have broken the glue bond that hold the friction lining to the actual shoe. The tech may or may not have noticed this. Some techs admittedly, when getting considerably less pay for warranty, do less, because you have warranty, bring it back for the next issue, when he/she will get paid to fix that new problem. The tech will not get paid to replace the rotor damaged park brake show without the following: Stopping to get extra time approval, manager signature, manager sign in for extra time, sometimes a call to the DSM first, parts request issue, pick up the new part from Parts Department, install new park brake shoes and THEN, can continue with work he/she is being paid warranty time for...OR, let you take it, come back with a new noise and get paid Diag time by warranty, re and re of the rotors and pads, then get paid to replace the shoes, etc. Do you get it? Rotors and pads on a truck like yours pay .6 of an hour or 36 minutes. We have to find your vehicle on the lot, test drive, bring into the shop and put on the lift, pull the wheels and inspect before we can begin the repairs. This is followed by a parts request, parts aquisition then the repairs, just how much of the 36 minutes do you think is used up in the preliminary procedure? Now you want the tech to fix something else for free. He/she is not inept, but trying to make a living on the rules imposed by warranty. We get paid next to nothing for warranty time, so "extras" are not often a first priority inless it is a critical safety issue. Use your warranty and thank you dealer for what you get. Think of it as free health care for your car.
    I hope this quick statement ;-)) helped resolve your issue on your visit to the mechanic and your brake problem. I must admit, you disclosed only going to"your mechanic", but didn't mention if it was at a dealership for warranty or not, so I filled in the blanks as warranty. My mini bio on warranty brakes should help others with insight I hope.
    PS, if you paid out of pocket for brake repairs and the company had an issue and didn't call you while your brakes werw apart on the hoist, I'd look for a new mechanic. Nobody likes a followup call, but a head's up a problem has developed during the repair and it is minimal to correct at this time is far better than letting your car roll and have you come back a second time, bad ju-ju for an independant shop. Further to this, if I spot something as a GM tech I can't fix today, I tell the consumer to expect this noise or light, etc and call in as soon as it happens, in the mean time I will order the part so you are incovenienced as little as possible. That way we ALL work the warranty.
    Thanks for your time
  • brakelabbrakelab Posts: 1
    Measure or have someone measure the LRO (Lateral run out of the rotor), the bolt face to rotor face should be true to less than 30 microns at top pad edge contact area of rotor. Yours must be horrible. Hi LRO is the main cause of shudder, brake dust and fast pad wear. Always clean the rotor and knuckle mount surfaces after separation.
  • gpl88gpl88 Posts: 1
    I just filed my complaint.....

    My 2002 Chevy Silverado HD 2500 has severe rust issues for certain components. On 5/16/2009 I had a steel brake line burst because of rust damage. Upon inspection I noticed that all brake lines had significant rust damage. General Motors has no part number on these steel brake lines and cannot supply a replacements. In addition to rusted out brake lines I have the following other rust issues, Severely rusted drive shaft, Severely rusted front rotors, (I had to replace the rears last year), Severely rusted washers on body mounts, Severely rusted transmission casing and the Frame starting to rust out. In my onion GM has a major quality and safety issue here. I contacted Chevrolet about the rusted brake lines and they blamed the problem on road salt. However other components under the truck and the truck body itself look great. I believe that GM used inferior materials in certain components resulted in these parts rusting out.

    I'm planning on using right stuff detailing to make my new brake lines.
  • barnowl3barnowl3 Posts: 70
    In my experience with many warranty issues with my GMC, gmmaster is right on. First you get a good dealer that appreciates your business, be fair with him and they will treat you fair as well.(I'm sure it doesn't apply to all) My dealer always tried to do their best and I could see when GM was the cause of the hold up, but the dealer still worked with me. My biggest complaint is with GM. They send a comment card, ask all about the dealer--- the dealer is awesome --- it is the Truck! But, no one apparently reads those comments cards or cares. Simple Secret-- learn from your customers and mistakes and fix them! Customer comes back! No excuse for the same technical problem, that can be resolved, to exist for 6+ model years, while producing the same problem replacement part. Kind of sucks if you have to replace the part ( warranty or not) and know it will only go another 10,000 miles or so ( eg steering shaft.) geez i wish GM would read this. You don't need no f***king overpaid consultant to tell you what's wrong. The answer is under your nose---- talk to your customers! Sorry about the rant, but I really want to buy another GM, if they would just fix these issues, it's not that hard.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    The GM board just got rid of Wagoner. Can't believe how long he lasted losing so much money. That's what GM is good at. Making a product no one wants. The Aztec comes to mind.

    No matter as everyone deserves a 10th chance as GM is getting. We shall see what the future holds. At one time all three of my vehicles were GM. Now two of them are and by the end of the year only one. Course I'm not giving up the vette. Trucks are another matter. That 5.3 is really old news even with the AFM.
  • clh421967clh421967 Posts: 1
    i was on my way home yesterday when i went to hit the brakes they locked up on me and the rpms went up to 3000 when i threw it into nuetrel the brakes went back to normal and have not had any problems sinc e any idea please help if can thank-you it is a 95 chevy silverado 5.7 v8 350
  • mram50mram50 Posts: 5
    My brake lights won't turn off even when I depress the switch under the dash so I'm assuming the switch is bad or there could be another issue.. Anyway, can anyone give me a clue where to locate a diagram of how to get the switch removed? This is a jumble of wires and plastic and steel and right now I'm not sure where to begin without just ripping into things.
    Also the brake light on the dash is on as well because i know one of the rear cylinders has a slow leak, but that's never been a problem. (well, it IS a problem, but...)The problem now is I can't get the brake lights to shut off at all without pulling the battery and can't figure out how to remove the switch. Any suggestions?

    Thanks.
  • mram50mram50 Posts: 5
    I ruled out the switch. I removed it and the lights are still on.. Any ideas from here?
  • ellis5464ellis5464 Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 GMC Sierra truck. There is a hole in the brake line near the gas tank. I can't access the union/coupling in this area because it is too tight, the gas tank is in the way. Is there a way to get to the union/coupling without removing the gas tank? I have been soaking the union/coupling joints for 5 days with solvent, but I still can't get the wrench on it. Can I run a line down the entire body instead of removing the original sections?
  • rich107rich107 Posts: 4
    2007 4 w/d v-8 15,000 miles ...novenber will be 3 years..the front brakes are squelling...i took of the tire to look at it....the inside of the rotar is wearing down...
    i just want to know if it should be covered by the waranty........thanks tableclocks@hotmail.com
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Brakes are considered consumable parts and are not covered under warranty unless you can demonstrate that the wear factor was not normal and caused by a defective part.
  • rich107rich107 Posts: 4
    yes...i understand they are a wearing part...but 15,000 miles?.....the inside of the left rotor is wearing about 1/16 of a inch...i conten that the rotor is bad or the shoes were bad...defected from the factory.....
    your coments please.....thank you
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Most car dealers, GM in particular, have trained their service people, manager included to deny this type of claim under warranty. They will do almost anything including stretching the truth to deny the warranty claim.

    That being the case, you may want to take it in and get their take on it. If not satisfied you could take it to another dealer under a warranty claim. Note however, that the record of denial of warranty may follow you as most will input it into the GM database.

    If the brake didn't release properly and remained in contact with the rotor with enough pressure to cause premature wear of the pads and rotor you will have a repairable warranty claim. You will need to be persistent, but not obnoxius, in showing the evidence by comparing the opposite side rotor as evidence of premature wear.

    Good luck!
  • dran1dran1 Posts: 1
    i have never had one stay on but myself and several people i know have had the "block" under the bed where taillights plug into go bad that's probably it good luck Darren
  • I just did this yesterday.. I was able to undo the frame clamp on the rear section of brake line and pry the line just above the tank to get a wrench on the union. to work on it I had to cram myself between the exhaust pipe and the drive shaft to see above the tank. Once I go in there I was able to remove that piece of brake line from the union to the bracket above the axle. mine rusted out, fab a new one and slip it in from the back.
  • kerryjkerryj Posts: 2
    Hi folks, I have a 2006 Sierra that has a problem I see described in a number of posts. ABS seems to be kicking in at very low speeds. This started at about 80,000 miles. (has 88,000 now). I have described the problem to 2 different dealers and both said they have never heard of the problem. After reading all these posts, I find that hard to believe. I am not really interested in disconnecting the ABS. I just want to fix it. Will cleaning the sensors actually fix this? If so, has anyone done this and how difficult is it. I'm not a professional mechanic, but I do know my way around a vehicle and do most of my own work. I considered changing the entire hub (I'm told the sensor rings are housed there) but they are $515 each.
    Thanks in advance.
  • fauxjoefauxjoe Posts: 1
    Hi There - I just started having the same exact problem with my '06 Sierra and the peddle seems to get more "spongie" with the ABS kicking in at inappropriate times (i.e. very slow speeds and when the wheel turns at slow speeds...into parking spots, etc.). I will bring to a shop to get diagnosed this weekend and post when that's done. Please keep me posted w/ any info you might find. Thanks!!
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