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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Electrical Problems

I've got a blazer with over 100k miles on it. In the past couple of days, I drive down the road and it sounds like the right turn signal is constantly on. Is this the precursor to a serious electrical problem? Any advice appreciated. Thanks -
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Comments

  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Just to rule it out - but is there any possibility that something is tapping against the steering column such as a keychain or somesuch?

    tidester, host
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    You are lucky this time cause the flasher is a recall item (had mine done free) that is part of the mulifunction switch - all they do is pop the harzard switch out the top of the column and put a new one in - due to failed brake lights because the flashers use same circuit but the top mount or third brake light still works. This should cure the problem. Behind the glove box are 2 relays or canisters 1 for flashers and 1 for blinkers - thats where you hear the noise I'd guess. Earlier models often replace the whole multif switch to solve the noise but this is the part that should do it - for free so let all know how it works out.
  • cbarnettcbarnett Posts: 1
    My blazer's brake lights have failed but the top mount still works. Called my local dealership and they said was no recall on this. Can you give me some more specifics on the recall that you are speaking of.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Its the flasher switch on top of the steering column and mine was replaced on a recall - run the VIN # and it will come up on their computer - if not ask for the service manager. Lazy guys sounds like.
  • hybridprhybridpr Posts: 3
    a few months ago the power door locks just stopped working. also the keyless entry no longer works when i disarm the car alarm. when i press the lock or unlock button on the door, i hear a clicking coming from inside the glovebox from the relays. could that be where my problem is? whats the fix for this?

    thanks,
    joel
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    see answer in other section - don't double post!
  • bigjoe85bigjoe85 Posts: 5
    I have an 01 blazer 4.3 vortec and Im having trouble I think with the feul system. When I would pull up to a stop light sat there longer than 5 min. it will cut off on me and it and now its shutting off while im driving down the road. I have no problem starting it backup though. Fuel pump or possibly injectors?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Don't double post - see answer in starting stalling post.
  • Hello Everyone, The mchanism that releases the rear glass hatch will not release. I can hear it engaging but not releasing. How do I get the panel off without tearing it up? What are the repairs that will have to be made once I get to it? Thanks for any help!! Raidercoop!!
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Open the whole hatch (assume you don't have the tailgate/window) and remove the plastic panel screws and then the handle screws - mech is inside there.
  • there is no way to open the whole hatch manually. All the entries are electric. there is not a keyed button on the exterior of the hatch and the handle on the inside will not open the tailgate. As such I cant get to the screws that hold on the plastic panel. I have already removed the screws that hold the handle on and removed the handle. I just don't know how to remove the panel without tearing it up. Any ideas will be appreciated. Thanks Raidercoop!!
  • Had the exact same problem on 98 Blazer. Issue was the turn signal switch mechanism. Unfortunately part was $250 & $250 labor to install since steering column has to be disassembled to install it. Only 80k on vehicle at the time. Low grade parts appears to be the real issue ....
  • jdreed8jdreed8 Posts: 1
    I have a 97 Blazer that I can't open the window/tailgate on. I hear the solenoid but assume the link is busted. Anyone know how to get the window open so I can get to the mechanism? Any help greatly appreciated
  • softtailsofttail Posts: 11
    I have the same issue w/ my 02 Blazer. I've followed this discussion a little in hopes of hearing a solution. I don't see any further posts. Did you sort it out? Sean in Toronto
  • softtailsofttail Posts: 11
    I cannot get the rear gate or hatch to open on my 02 Blazer. I can hear the actuator operating but it will not complete the task. I realize a pin is broken on this part however how does one manually open the gate or hatch to begin the repair?
  • softtailsofttail Posts: 11
    Any luck w/ your tailgate / actuator issue?
  • Well after getting completely frustrated with the whole issue I finally found out what's wrong with the glass release switch. There is a plastic connector that is attached to a lever that in turn presses against a switch. That plastic piece is broken at the connection point. Leave it to GM to use a piece of plastic in a mechanism that will move thousands of times. The bad thing about the whole process is that while I was trying to figure everything out I broke the panel that covers the tailgate and now have to see if I will be lucky enough to find another one at a junkyard. I would assume that the plastic piece can be purchased from a local chevy dealer. With hindsight being 20/20, I found that there is an access hole in the tailgate to get to the switch that opens the glass. You will not be able to get the panel off until you open the entire hatch but you can pry the panel back enough to get access to the switch. I will take pics and try to post them on this board. If I can't post them here, I have a photobucket.com account that the pics can be viewed there. Anyway you are in for a very frustrating time. Since I was so irritated I decided it would be best to take break and haven't messed with it since, but I believe I could fabricate a different connector out of metal so that I would not have to deal with this trife issue anymore. Stay tuned for the pics. RAIDERCOOP!!
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,010
    You already have your CarSpace page set up. If you click on the album link there it's easy to copy photos from your computer to ours and then post them here, or just send people to your album. See the Help link for details.

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • dowkujodowkujo Posts: 2
    Greetings,

    I have 97 Blazer with the same problem that I just fixed today for basically free. The Chevy dealer wanted $65 for a new release actuator and $125. for a new interior panel because you most likely will have to break your existing panel to open the glass. How stupid.

    Anyways, what I did was attempt to pull the interior panel away from the tail gate at the top near the tail gate release handle. Mine did break but I was then able to manually release the glass and then open the tail gate.

    With the tail gate down you can then remove the panel by unscrewing the two measly phillips screws on the left and right side of the panel and then pop the panel off. Keep the plastic pieces of the panel because I was able to glue them back and it looks like it will hold pretty well.

    Now that the panel is off, use a 7mm (I HATE metric) socket and remove the bolts surrounding the metal removalbe panel on the tail gate. Before lifting the panel up you'll notice two white plastic tab/rod clamps on the left and right side of this metal panel. You'll need to pop the rods out of these tabs in order to lift the panel up.

    Once done with that lift the panel up and take a peek underneath. There you'll see a black box held on by two phillips screws. This is the lock actuator. Sticking out of the side of this box is a rubber booted rod an inch or so long. When you push the release button on the tail gate (go ahead and do it) you'll see how the magic is supposed to happen. The booted rod is attached to a blue PLASTIC piece and the blue plastic piece is attached to the release arm. Well, my blue plastic piece was snapped off just short of where it is attached to the release arm. You'll prolly find the broken piece floating around in there somewhere.

    Here's how I fixed it. I found a roll of water-pipe plumbing strapping, you know, it's the stuff that looks like it's made of copper and has many holes in it for nailing to lumber. I cut a piece of it about 2 inches long and laid it on the blue plastic piece that was still attached to the rubber booted rod. Using a marker i marked where a hole of the strap fell and drilled a small hole through the plastic and attached the strap to the plastic with small stove bolts and flat washers.

    Next, using the same type small stove bolts, flat washers and nuts I attached the other end of the short strap to the release arm. Since you can't tighten the nuts that much I used lock-tight to keep the nuts from ever backing off.

    Also, I used a dremel-tool to smooth out the ridge on the blue plastic picece on both sides to give more flat surface area for the pipe strapping to bolt on and I also used a dremmel cut-off wheel to cut excess bolt away after the nuts are on and tight. Else it might interfere with something else.

    Before bolting the panel back on I tested it out and it looked like it was doing it's magic so I put it all back together and hot diggity I did it!!

    Instead of throwing away the old interior plastic panel I glued the broken off piece back on and secured with duct tape while it dried for 24 hours and it seems to be holding.

    So, that's how I did it and saved over $200.00. Hope this helps others defeat GM and their ridiculous factory way of fixing a broken piece of plastic!!
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Nice!

    tidester, host
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