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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Electrical Problems

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  • hikick1hikick1 Posts: 39
    I replaced the turn signal lever (aka master control switch)(aka multi function switch) today. I did not have to remove the steering wheel. It took about two hours with me working at a snails pace. I could not get any Chevy dealer to honor the recently expired recall for the $200.00 part. I refused to pay an additonal $200.00 labor to have it installed. I now have both turn signals, hazards, the truck now turns off with the key removed, it doesn't run on anymore with my foot on the brake pedal with key removed, and most functions returned to normal. I got it on Ebay from thepartslady for only $110 including shipping. It is the original GM replacement for the recalled item. The fuel gauge is still bouncing around like it has lost its mind, though. Especially when the air compressor kicks in. Any thoughts?
  • hikick1hikick1 Posts: 39
    I just saw on ebay a fuel level sensor sending unit that states it wil stop the jumping. It is $27.00 with shipping. I am going to purchase one. They are located here in my city. I will let you know if this solves the wild fuel gauge issue.
  • hikick1hikick1 Posts: 39
    hi,

    please see our posts under electrical turn signal problems...

    Good luck...
  • hikick1hikick1 Posts: 39
    will the vehicle start if you start it with the hazards flashing? will the vehicle start with your foot on the brake pedal? My only to starting point guesses because I assume you have a fully charged battery.........
  • hikick1hikick1 Posts: 39
    How are your fuses?
  • hikick1hikick1 Posts: 39
    I had that problem do to water entering the window due to weather stripping leak which had been going on for sometime before I bought the vehicle. I took out the control panel on the door. Detached the individual control pods and cleaned the contact points (the gold round shiny things). I used electrical contact cleaner from advanced auto. It costed $3.00 a can and a stiff hair brush. Only a few sprays are needed. I got them all to work except the top one for my power mirrors. I can't get the left right movement, only up and down.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Turn Signal Problem in Blazer may be helpful.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • joicy3joicy3 Posts: 3
    I checked my fuses and they are fine. The battery is two weeks old and has been load tested and is in fine working order. I have gotten it started three or four times, but it is intermittent. When it does start it runs fine other then the dash lights and gauges blinking and going up and down. I am thinking it maybe the ignition switch located in the steering column. I am going to re-check my battery cables, and I am going to test the starter/solenoid the way it says in the chiltons book. I dont know if there is any way to check the ignition switch?
  • I unhooked the positive from my battery to see if the alternator was bad and the car was still running, but when I opened the door it just shut off, any suggestions.
  • joicy3joicy3 Posts: 3
    Well I tested the starter and apparently there was a short or something causing the power loss. I removed starter and installed a new one. Everything is working fine for now.
  • :) Hi! Some time ago the rear gate switch was replaced by dealer because it opened all by itself and blew the TBC (Truck Body Computer) fuse. Problem seemed solved until one day while I was washing the vehicle and sprayed water under the passenger side front wheel pocket it started cranking all by itself. I had the ignition key in my pocket. I rushed to my tool box and was able to disconnect the battery. The TBC fuse blew again. Next day I replaced the fuse, reconnected the battery and it worked OK. However it happens that if I'm going to wash it I have to remove the TBC fuse with the truck running, turn off the motor, wash the truck and after it is dry replace the fuse. Help me please!!!
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    The water shorted the starter solenoid, which is mounted to the started just inside the right front wheel well. Take a look at the starter and see if a shroud or wiring is loose. A direct shot of water shouldn't engage the starter.
  • My wife has a 1992 Jimmy and is not getting fuel. I wanted to check the fuse for the fuel pump before I went any futher but her fuse panel has lost the markings on it. Can anyone tell me whitch fuse is for the fuel pump.
  • I just bought this 97 Blazer LT, 108,000 miles. The dealer has agreed to get the door locks and power seats working. I popped the fuse panel cover (opened the drivers door and saw it on the side of the dash) and saw the relay/fuse was missing. Dealer put one in and it pops immediately. I also noticed that the wipers do not work after the truck sits over night. After it's run for a while the wipers work just fine (possible drain on batt.). I had the alternator and battery checked and they were fine. I suspect these issues are all related to one electrical problem. Any thought's/suggestions on where to start?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Dealer put one in and it pops immediately.

    That spells "short circuit!" The dealer should be able to track that down for you.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • Good link for the clip repair.
    My problem is related but different. I believe the rear window actuator is fried on my '98 Blazer. I had to remove the fuse to keep the actuator from continually operating. The rear window would pop open while driving or while parked without a button or keyfob being pushed! Can anyone confirm or advise? Where does one get a rear window actuator? I think I read somewhere that the door lock actuator and rear window actuator are the same part number?

    Thanks in advance!
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Sounds more like the tailgate window switch is shorting, causing the solenoid to fire. Typical failure mode on a solenoid is to not operate. Seems somewhere in this forum mention was made of dirt getting into the tailgate switch and not letting it fully release, causing intermittent window release. Then again, it could just be the voices in my head trying to confuse me... :)
  • I have a 1997 Jimmy with about 100K on it. This happened once before but I was able to get it running to drive it home. When you turn the key on the fuel gauge will work, pump will come on, then nothing. Sometimes it will stop mid-pump and try to kick on again, sometimes it will finish and then nothing. The fuel gauge drops down all the way to the right, flat, past full like the sending unit is not getting power, truck turns over but won't fire. If I try it again, the pump does not come on at all, gauge remains flat. If I try again in a couple hours it will go through the above things again. Lately, sometimes when this happens the speedo will jump quickly up and down a couple of times then stop. The other gauges seem to be working. Sounds like a short someplace? I swapped Relays around, fuses looked ok. I hope it's not the pump.
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