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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Electrical Problems

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  • Duh--Of course I meant 4.3L V6. Sorry for any confusion.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Just for grins, can you get an extension cord and hair drier and blow hot air into the air intake tube while somebody cranks? There are a couple of sensors that monitor the intake air, and if one of them is whacked this might show the problem.

    Just re-read your post. Does it start immediately if you jumper it?

    There is also a crankshaft position sensor on the front of the engine, bottom side by the crankshaft pully. While this *should* set a code if bad, it doesn't always. Voice of experience on that one! I would try the same trick of blowing the hair drier on the sensor (it is an external sensor that shuts off spark if it thinks the engine is not turning) and see what you get.

    I am all about trouble shooting instead of parts swapping. Assuming all the ignition parts were reconnected correctly, the likelyhood of six bad sparkplugs is right up there with winning the lottery. Without buying a ticket.
  • I might be able to run a hair dryer off the balcony and into the parking lot. :) It's something I've considered doing for lots of parts under the hood, nice to have it narrowed down.

    Haven't tried jumping it yet. It crossed my mind, but since it cranks so hard, I ruled it out. I guess it's worth a shot.

    Talked to a GMC dealer, who immediately suggested the fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump. Like I said, it's getting plenty of fuel in the cylinder, but if the pressure regulator is flooding it, then that'd give me the same problem, so I think I'll heat up the FPR, too. He also suggested a vacuum leak, which the mechanic had already ruled out.

    I agree on the plug thing--he's convinced I have a voltage problem, and wants to try that, or at least pulling and cleaning them. I just don't see it.

    Thanks again; I'll be sure and post the solution (assuming I find it). And I'll gladly take more suggestions.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Your dealer may be onto something with the fuel regulator. I had a 6.0L in a full size truck do something similar. It wasn't temp related, though. But if the truck sat for a couple of days it didn't want to start. The fuel regulator was allowing fuel to drain into the intake. The temp component you mention sort of eliminates that issue. Any chance you have some water in the tank? Make sure it is fuel and not water you are getting. Saw a car come in on the hook and the owner swore up and down it wasn't out of gas, the gauge showed full and she verified she had just filled up. That's when the light bulb went off and I determined that she did indeed have a full tank. Of water. A service station got to pay for that repair.

    Not saying water is the problem here, but just to keep an open mind about what looks right but may not be. Seems half of troubleshooting these newer electronic systems is observation and logic.
  • Did you ever resolve this problem. I'm having the same problem on a 2000 Jimmy.
  • Hey shirt,

    I *think* it was indeed the fuel pressure regulator (FPR), though I can't say with 100% certainty.

    I didn't have an extension cord long enough to reach the parking lot, so I filled a large Zip-loc bag with hot water and set it over top of the FPR and left it for about 20-30 minutes. It fired right up. The reason I'm not certain the problem was the FPR is because we've warmed up a bit here--it was probably almost 45 F when I did this (it was not starting at about 40 and under). So, it might have been the FPR, or it might have been some other part that was warm enough at 45.

    I thought about trying to start it without first warming up the FPR, but I knew that if it didn't start I was going to flood it, and I was afraid it wouldn't start even after I'd warmed it up.

    I went ahead and ordered a new FPR, but I think spring has sprung, and I won't know for sure if that was the problem until next winter.
  • I am having the same problem on my 96 Blazer - 4.3L, 153,000 miles. It will crank over, but not fire. Sometimes will start after several minutes of cranking/waiting, but will always start when jumped. Battery is new, new fuel filter.
    Mechanic said there was no ignition system problems, but the fuel pressure was 45-50 lbs. From reading other posts, this could be an issue. Any suggestions?
  • judastouchjudastouch Posts: 7
    I have to go back and revisit my answer: my problem probably was NOT the FPR. I did get a chance to let it sit for a few days while I awaited the new FPR in the mail. Wouldn't start. Mechanic then told me that while he thought he had swapped out the distributor cap before while trouble-shooting, it turns out there had been a miscommunication with one of his guys, and they hadn't swapped it out, so they tried that. I recently left it sitting for a week while I was out of town, and it happened to be a pretty cold week: in the 40s, the perfect environment for this elusive problem of mine to crop up. Truck fired right up, and has been firing up with no problems since then. The old distributor cap was less than 18 months old and couldn't have had more than 5,000 miles on it, but it certainly seems that was the issue. Luck.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    As simple as the component is, and with no moving parts, I have learned over the years that all distributor caps are not created equal. For one thing, the shape of the contacts and their relative spacing to the rotor contact can change the dynamic timing in the engine.

    I have had to buy off-brand ignition parts before when caught in an out of the way location and was surprised to see the difference. Even a set of points for something as common as a Ford 200ci 6cyl seemed simple enough until they flew apart at a screaming 3000RPM.

    Glad you are up and running, and hope that cures the gremlin.
  • 85 Blazer 350 4x4- New Altenator-Battery-Battery wiring and terminals- New Alt Plug- New Starter- ----Altenator power only randomly gets to the battery- Can I just straight wire it some way. How can this even happen?
  • Help my button on my hazzard lights popped out of the column and a spring flew accross the cab. My 4 ways will not shut off now. I stuck an ink pen to hold the button down under the dash. I priced the switch and they want 230 dollars for the whole piece because it controlls the wipers, 4 ways, blinkers, and cruise. Is there any place just to but the red button and spring? 1997 s-10 blazer 2wd
  • pvanamanpvanaman Posts: 3
    Go to the Chevy dealer parts dept, ask for the GM hazard switch repair kit (part # 15174447) it just pops in, no tools required, cost is $9.
  • I recently "inherited" a 96 Chevy Blazer. The biggest problem is that the brake lights do not come on nor do the turn signals. The hazard lights also do not work as the button is broke off in the column.
    Can anyone advise where I should start or where to locate some likely causes? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
    bobby
  • pvanamanpvanaman Posts: 3
    Bobby, see message #314
  • I have a blinker problem, that is no blinkers. I have checked the little fuses and the bulbs but I don't know what else there is. Does anyone know if there is another fuse or something else I should be doing to try and fix this? I would appreciate any help I can get.. :)
  • This is a general answer to this problem.
    I know I just went through it myself.

    The turn Signal Switch incorporates the Hazard Switch, High and Low beam headlights, Windshield Wiper speed, intermittent, and washer spray contacts along with the Cruise Control if so equipped.

    This is usually caused by excessive carbon build-up in the Turn Signal portion of the switch switch on the steering column itself.

    It's not too, too hard to replace the switch if your good with tools and patience.

    Just remember that there are more than one "Turn Signal Switch" produced for these vehicles, "extended build" and "option code" variables.

    The switch may even be opened to clean out the carbon build up on the contacts inside the switch, but you have to be very diligent in attempting this repair.

    I personally at the time, did not want to try to open the switch only because I couldn't afford to be without the vehicle. You have to open the drivers side of the dash and drop the steering wheel. I know sometimes the way Murphy's Law works and I would have been on the bad side of Murphy.

    The Dealership wanted over $600.00 to do the job, $280.00 for the Switch itself.
    Cost me $220.00 for the new switch from a site on the internet which included expedited shipping and 3+ hours of my time. I got the switch in 24 hours, would have been 2 days from the dealer. The switch is OEM too.

    After installing the new switch I decided to open and repair the switch, which was LOADED with carbon build-up in the Turn Signal portion of the switch.
    Now I have an extra switch.
    There are plenty of sites on the web where you can get the switch, but like I said make sure it's the correct one for the Vehicle.

    GOOD LUCK! :D

    I truly hope this does not upset the Hosts or Moderators of the site, If it does I apologize. I tried to understand the terms of the site but I'm a Mechanic, not a an Attorney or I would have posted the site I did business with.
  • I'm pumped, just bought a 97' Jimmy yesterday. Very, very well kept. Just 71k mi. Went to open rear hatch earlier today (worked fine yesterday) with the key remote and it wouldn't open. So, I used the button on the dash to open it, it wouldn't open. I tried the key, wouldn't open. I finally checked the fuse (# 2- 20amp) and it was blown. (also controls lighter, horn, etc.) I tried to replace it, and once the new fuse made contact it sparked and blew. The next time I tried replacing the fuse without the engine running, again it blew. What could be causing this? I'm sure probably a short in the wiring somewhere, but where should I begin? I am a rookie to auto-repair, but not bad at it. Please someone help me!
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Pull the lighter from the cig and see if that clears the short. May be the lighter is shorted.

    To blow a 20 amp on contact, you have a hard short. Shouldn't be too hard to find. Look at the wiring around the lighter, and under the dash for any cuts, jumpers, modifications, that sort of thing. Did the car have a custom audio system that was removed before selling? Or an electric brake controller for trailer brakes?
  • JLFLEMMONS, thank you, you are the friggin' man! I read the first sentence of your reply and knew that had to be it! I never gave it a thought, but earlier today I replaced my lighter with this lighter I bought that has a die (rolling dice) on the end of it. I took the lighter out, replaced the fuse and BAM! Everything works! I never thought it could be that simple. The lighter is cool looking, but I threw the damn thing away. I am so glad I found this forum, if there is anything else I will ever need for my auto this is the first place I'll come looking for advice. Thanks again buddy!
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    You're welcome, glad I could help.

    Jim
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