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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Electrical Problems



  • I have a 2000 GMC Jimmy and I noticed that things are starting to either short out, or blow out. I've checked all the fuses and they all seem to be fine. What I have noticed is that my LED tail light has refused to work for some time. Not exactly sure how to check whether it has gone bad or what. Another thing is the lights for my Gearshift Display (R, N, D, 3, 2, 1) does not illuminate anymore, along with 4 of the 6 channel buttons for the stock stereo. Any ideas? Thanks, Bobby
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Okay, could be dealing with a couple of things here, but one that could be common is a bad voltage regulator in the alternator. If you are getting voltage spikes, or high voltage, you can shorten the life of the bulbs. Find a good voltage meter and check the voltage at the battery with the engine off, and then running. Off should be around 12.6VDC, and running should be around 13.8V to 14.4VDC.

    If the entire LED light is out, it could have been damaged by high voltage, but that is not likely. Check your owners manual and see if there is a specific fuse for the third brake light.
  • My 2001 Blazer has started having problems with the electrical display. The right side signal light comes on, but does not flash. The left side signal light comes on but flashes at double the normal rate (like a bulb was burned out), unless I hit the Hazard Light switch for a few seconds, then it goes back to normal.

    Also, more recently, the ABS and Parking lights will sometimes light up on the dash, unless I shut off the engine and restart. Then it all works fine. Any help would be appreciated.
  • recently my left rear break/blinker fuse began blowin, i changed bulbs, flasher, taped harness wires leaving jack compartment to left tail-light assembly; and looked for any bare wires to ground. still kept blowing fuse when i did any of 3 things; activate 4 way, break, or left turn. Then after a few weeks, both left and right fuses began blowin not necessarily at same time but sometimes yes. Now for about a week my left has stopped blowin and the right is not doing it as often. When the fuses blew i never lost running lights or the led break light over rear hatch. Thanks for any help.
  • bear19bear19 Posts: 3
    I just found out today that I need the multifunction switch on my 1997 Blazer replaced. The dealership that I talked to wants about $600.00 for the part and the labor. I plan on trying to replace it myself. Anyone out there have any suggestions for me??
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    Doesn't look that easy. Book calls for 2.8 hours labor and the part is $$$ and varies with whether or not you have tilt and cruise control.

    Here's the procedure if you are interested:

    Remove or disconnect the following:

    1. Make sure the lever is in the center or "Off" position.
    2. Negative battery cable.
    3. Disable the SIR system. (Supplemental Inflatable Restraint )
    4. Inflator module.
    5. Tilt wheel lever.
    6. Horn contact (if equipped with SIR).
    7. Horn pad assembly (if not equipped with SIR).
    8. Steering wheel nut.
    9. Steering wheel using a steering wheel puller.
    10. Knee bolster.
    11. Loosen steering column bracket nuts.
    12. Two TORX(R) head screws from lower column cover.
    13. Lower column cover. Tilt cover down and slide back to disengage locking tabs.
    14. Two TORX(R) head screws from upper column cover.
    15. Steering column lock set.
    16. Upper column cover.
    17. Two wire harness straps from steering column wire harness.
    18. Retainer CPA (Connector Position Assurance) and connector from BTSI. (Brake Transmission Shift Interlock )
    19. Steering column bulkhead connector from vehicle wire harness.
    20. Gray and black connectors of switch from column bulkhead connector.
    21. Two TORX(R) head screws on switch.
    22. Multifunction turn signal/hazard switch.


    CAUTION: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion Inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force, and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.

    Install or connect the following:

    1. Multifunction turn signal/hazard switch.

    o Use small blade screwdriver to compress electrical contact and move multifunction switch into position.
    o Electrical contact must rest on cancelling cam assembly.

    2. Two TORX(R) head screws on switch. Tighten to 6 Nm (53 inch lbs.) .
    3. Gray and black connectors of switch to column bulkhead connector.
    4. Steering column bulkhead connector to vehicle wire harness.
    5. Connector and retainer CPA to BTSI.
    6. Two wire straps on steering column wire harness.
    7. Upper column cover.
    8. Steering column bracket nuts. Tighten to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.) .
    9. Knee bolster.
    10. Steering column cylinder lock set.
    11. Two TORX(R) head screws to upper column cover. Tighten to 1.4 Nm (12 inch lbs.) .
    12. Lower column cover.
    13. Two TORX(R) head screws to lower column cover. Tighten to 6 Nm (53 inch lbs.) .
    14. Make sure the lever is in the center or "OFF" position.
    15. Steering wheel onto the steering shaft.
    16. Steering wheel nut. Tighten to 40 Nm (29 ft. lbs.) .
    17. Horn pad assembly (if not equipped with SIR).
    18. Horn contact (if equipped with SIR).
    19. Inflator module.
    20. Tilt wheel lever.
    21. Negative battery cable.
    22. Enable the SIR system (if equipped).


  • My problem sounds exactly like yours...left the tailgate open the other night in the rain and now the pushbutton, power locks, and rear hatch actuator operate intermittently. I dissassembled everything but couldn't figure out how to remove the pushbutton/lock assembly for cleaning. This post was a year old but do you remember how to remove the lock.
  • We found out that our problem was the flasher for the 4-ways and the flasher for the turn signals. Luckily the parts store would take back the multi-purpose switch that I bought.I found out that the multi-purpose switch can be removed and replaced without pulling the steering column. A #25 torx bit might have to be modified to get one screw out, but if you take your time, it can be done. A #5 internal torx soccet is also needed. Thank you for your help, and I hope this will help someone. (The switch alone cost about $200.00!)
  • I'm also having the same problem on my 97 GMC Jimmy. I suspect the grounds but I haven't verified it. Have you fixed the problem yet? What was the fix?
  • 97 GMC Jimmy with a V6 Vortec, motor was bought from Advance and has around 40000 miles. I didn't put the motor in, it was already installed when I bought it. Hope someone can help me with this miss problem, I will try to explain it the best that I can. First off, new plugs, new plug wires, new coil pack, fuel filter and air filter. Catalytic converter has been removed. No Check engine light is on. The vehicle starts perfect and idles perfect, but when you go up a hill it sometimes has a bad hesitation like you are letting off the fuel back and forth, give it more gas and it quits. Then sometimes on flat ground at 55 mph it does the same thing. Sometimes I can pull into a parking lot at 3 mph or at an idle and the motor has a violent stutter to it. That has only happened twice. So can anyone enlighten me on this subject??
  • Have you checked the fuel pressure from the fuel pump?
  • How's the inside of the distributor cap look? GMC issued a recall/repair on the distributors--the bottoms of the units themselves have little apertures covered with metal screens. (If memory serves, the apertures were to provide ventilation and the screens to keep road debris from getting into the distributor.) The screens trap moisture, which causes the inside of the cap to corrode, and causes misfiring similar to what you're describing.

    If the inside of the cap is corroded, pull the distributor and yank out those screens.

    Previous poster's question about fuel pressure is also a good one--check your fuel pressure.
  • I had a similar problem with my 98 GMC Jimmy and after a while stop running all together it turned out to be the fuel pump inside the tank. Pump is about $280, Good luck
  • My Jimmy was running fine one day next day It was hesitating and not shifting on time and when shift into reverse the truck would not move. Can someone tell me If Im going to need a new transmission or maybe a filter and fluid change will take care of this problem?
  • I'm having the same problem with my 97, Did you figure it out?
  • Took out brake light switch went back to get tools. I opened back hatch and my center light came on puzzled. Can any 1 help
  • Hello,

    The directional/cruise control signal arm on my 2000 Chevy Blazer fails to stay engaged when making a left turn. Any step-by-step help in replacing the arm would be greatly appreciated.

    Thank you
  • Nevermind....I found MR.Shiftright's procedure outlined in reply #328.

  • bear19bear19 Posts: 3
    I replaced the multifunction switch, but that didn't fix the problem. I replaced the turn signal flasher and the 4-way flasher and that worked. I haven't had any trouble since. Except now the back hatch light won't stay on when just the hatch is open. I hope this helped you.
  • Hi all, I have a 2000 Chevy Blazer that suddenly died one night without warning. It was already parked for about 4 hours, and when my wife attempted to start it, nothing happened. At first we thought it was a dead battery since the security light was flashing, but nothing else worked. When we turned on the head lights or blew the horn, the security light would die out. Even after charging up this battery, replacing it with a new one, checking all of the fuses (they were all good), even had two mechanics run a tester on it, there is absolutely NO power running through the system. Sometimes when the hood is open the hood light will come on but as soon as ANYTHING else is engaged it will die out. Any ideas? This is "driving" me nuts.
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