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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Electrical Problems



  • koda5koda5 Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Chevy Blazer and the Dome light is staying on. I changed the driver side door switch and it did not correct the problem. Has anyone solved the same problem?
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    Make sure the instrument panel dimmer - dome light on-off switch is in the off position.

    If the instrument panel dimmer / dome light onj-off switch is in the dome light off position and the dome light remains may need a new switch. Std. Motor Productrs DS961...$34.79
    Replacy the Courtesy Light Relay. AC Delco D1786C...$8.11
  • I would suggest the same as duntov. Sounds like a sure cure.
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    I noticed the same thing on my 1991 S10 Blazer 4x4. I usually hook up a Deltran Battery Tender to the battery when the vehicle is not going to be used for a few days Once I noticed that the battery tender charge light was still on after about an hour of charging. That meant that there was some sort of excessive battery drain in the vehicle's electrical system. I looked at the instrument panel, checked the head light switch and then noticed that the dome light would not turn off when I closed the door.

    I reached over and felt the instrument light dimmer - dome light on-off switch and the thumb wheel was still in the 'dome light on" position. That happens when you turn on the dome light and forget to turn it off.

    The Deltran Battery Tender can detect any kind of battery drain...dome light left on or a shorted power door lock relay.That also happend to my S10 Blazer and completely discharged the battery in two days. After I installed a new power door lock relay and a new AC Delco battery, I purchased and now regularily use a Deltran Battery Tender. I use it not only to keep the battery fully charged but also to monitor the electrical system..

    Those battery tenders are useful for warning you of an excessive battery drain. Normal battery drain on most GM vehicles is about 8 to 10 ma (clock, sensors, ECM, radio, relays, etc.) but a battery drain lthat small will not cause a battery to discharge or cause a battery tender to be in constant "charge" mode. However, if the battery drain is excessive, about 50 ma or more, the battery tender will go into constant charge mode illuminating the charge light, which indicates there is a electrical problem somewhere.
  • I have a 1997 Blazer that wont read the computer for inspection. Everytime they try it sayd ALL monitors not ready. Anyone ever have this problem? I have driven over 250 miles and have had it over 50 MPH for long periods of time. Any suggestions?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,408
    It's either the ECM or the wiring harness most likely. Sometimes a different type of scanner might get lucky.


  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Ran into this on a Saturn ION. Nothing was wrong with the car, it was the testing station that had an issue. You might drop by an auto parts store and see if their scanner will read it.
  • jefe63jefe63 Posts: 5
    Sometimes when I am driving, all my warning lights on the instrument panel will light, and at the same time all my gauges (fuel, temp) will quit working. Does anyone have any ideas as to what could be causing this? Also this does not effect the driving and operation. Thanks jefe63
  • jefe63jefe63 Posts: 5
    My emergeny brake will engage, but it will not latch in the engaged position. The only way it works is if held in manually. I have looked under the dash, and have yet been able to find the latching mechanism. Hoping some one out there can clue me in. Thankyou Jeff
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    That sounds like a bad ground. Might take a look under the dash and see if something has come loose.
  • I will assume the e-brake on a 2000 year model is the same foot pedal as used in
    earlier years. If so,there is a spring on the foot pedal unit which when disengaged lets the pedal come back up. Yours is not locking when pushed meaning the teeth are :shades: not interlocking. You can remove the whole unit by removing the cable from the latch and a couple bolts holds the pedal assembly on. After removal,you can visually see what the problem is ie...bent pedal assembly or related parts. Also,
    the release cable may need lubricated or the unit itself may need lubrication.After
    you get into it you should be able to diagnose the problem. The worse thing that could happen is you may have to get a whole assembly from a salvage yard. I believe jflemmons is probably right when it comes to your dash problems.If not ,he is definately headed into the right area.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    If you do need an e-brake assembly and don't have a good salvage yard available, try s10warehouse on ebay. I don't have any connection to these guys other than using them for parts on my two Blazers. Good service, good pricing, and fast shipping.
  • jefe63jefe63 Posts: 5
    Thanks cardoc50!!
  • jefe63jefe63 Posts: 5
    Thanks, jlflemmons, I will investigate.
  • bitterbitter Posts: 22
    Hey, I have a 98 S-10. Last year when it became cold, my E-brake would not release. I made the mistake of pulling the release latch and pulling the E-brake pedal up with my foot. It never caught after that. I took it apart from the car and looked to see if I could find what aparratus causes it to catch. To my dismay, there are no teeth like the earlier years. It is just a coiled spring with a plastic cam that seems to do the entire job with the release part tied to the plastic cam. I am not sure exactly what I did but I got it to catch again by rotating the plastic cam in another position that how it was sitting. Unfortunately, I live in the mid-west and we have had some very cold days. Yes, you guessed it! I pulled it up again manually because of its slow/no release in the cold weather and it is not catching again. Going to pull it done and do it once again. I dont think it can be fixed on the car. It has to come down. Not a hard job at all except for being upside down for the removal.
  • bitterbitter Posts: 22
    the ignition switch in these cars make them do strange things. by ignition switch, I mean the wire harness cluster that runs from the key switch (located in the steering wheel) to the fuse block under the dash @ the firewall.
  • bitterbitter Posts: 22
    My Blazer did the same thing yours is doing for a year. At idle the fuel pressure was in the upper 50psi, hard starts, could hear the fuel pump running properly, It would turn over sometimes but would not catch until I jumped it. Put a 1025 cca battery in it and it started better on its own, for awhile. It only ran goofy when I put my foot in it, but it would shift funny at low rpms (thought something was wrong with the tranny). It would stall at stops, but run when I gave it gas. Things just werent adding up. IT WAS THE FUEL PUMP! To be certain, if one of these times that it does not start, have some starting fluid at hand, spray some down the throttle body (NOT A LOT) and if it starts right away, do yourself a favor and change the fuel pump. Try to get an OEM replacement or you will have to cut wires. (you do not want to do this). The pump comes with the fuel indicator so that problem will be fixed, too. Unfortunately, the canister for the 97 Blazer cost from $250-$300 bucks for that year.
  • Hey Bitter! Your message sounds exactly like mine.I went through the exact same thing. When I replaced the fuel pump, it still did'nt start without priming, then it ran great.The pump I put in it was an aftermarket from a local parts store. Finally after much frustration I bought a pump from a GM dealership. No more problems at all.I
    hope others will read our messages before they waste money on a aftermarket pump.Mine is a 97 Jimmy. There is another thing that needs to be noted to all do it your selfers... Before dropping the tank all the way, make sure the emmision hose is disconnected from the front of the tank. If the hose connector breaks off and the hose cannot be reconnected, it won't let any pressure build up in the tank and the
    purge solinoid will not work making that part of the emission control system useless. After 7lbs of pressure builds up in the tank, the purge solinoid works. It does cause problems that a normal person just won't figure out. I did this on a 98 Blazer my Dad had.GM made these things different just about every year.Good job
    bitter! :)
  • My son's 97 Jimmy has no electric power anywhere. The other night we had to tow it home after it died from what we thought was a bad alternator. Headlights going dimm, stalled out, wont start, and when the jumper cables were removed it died. So the next day we spend some rent money on a new alternator and battery. Now theres nothing. No power anywhere. I've checked all the fuses I could find, and we took the covers off around the ignition switch and no power to any of the big wires going to the switch. We cant afford a mechanic and if he dosen't have it monday we're screwed....any ideas???
  • bitterbitter Posts: 22
    check the main power fuse (sometimes says battery/ignition etc. out under the hood. make sure your battery post terminals are clean and tight. And check to see that the starter wires are tight and making contact. One disconnected/corroded solinoid or starter wire can set you back to this state.
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