Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Electrical Problems

1232425262729»

Comments

  • Me and my wife had a similar problem with a 1992 Honda Accord. We had replaced the distributor to solve a problem with an engine code reporting a failure of the TDC position sensor. The car worked fine for a few days. Then, after driving the car for about 20 miles, the car sputtered. Less than a minute later, the car completely died. I couldn't start it again for at least an hour. Turns out a sensor in the alternator was overheating and shutting down the spark network. When it dies, you can check for spark by pulling one of the plug wires and inserting a flathead screwdriver into the socket on the wire. Do not hold onto the screwdriver for the next step. Have someone try to start the vehicle and see if there is a spark. If there is no spark, pull the wire off of the distributor that leads from the ignition coil. Repeat the previous test with the screwdriver in the wire from the coil. If there is spark, the problem may be with the distributor cap and rotor. If there is no spark, the coil may be bad. An overheating coil can fail and then work again once cooled.

    From what you described, it sounds like the voltage regulator on the alternator failed. There is a chance that voltage spikes may have damaged the computer. I would have it checked by a Chevy dealer. If the computer is fine, there is a chance the replacement alternator is defective. Most alternators that you buy at auto parts stores are not new, they are remanufactured. They take old alternators and replace only what they have to in order to get them working again. They then send them back to the stores to be resold. I can't tell you how many parts I have had to take back due to remanufacturing defect.

    Also, check with your insurance company for emergency roadside assistance. I have it on my insurance for $3 a month and it covers all towing within 50 miles of the towing destination. It's saved me several times.
  • I have 1995 S10 Chevy Blazer. Recently I've had issues starting it. In the beginning it would take 3 - 4 turns of the key to start it. Now it has progressed to 3-4 turns of the key with a pump of the gas pedal. New this morning. Turned the key and got no dash lights and CD player did the eject as if battery was disconnected, then another turn of the key power restored and a few more turns of the key and a pump or 2 of the gas pedal and it started. Any ideas what to check for an easy fix?
  • I think I may have found my salvation! Years ago my power locks, seats, and remote stopped working. I took it to the dealer and they couldn't fix it but I had to pay $300 labor. The dome light also went on and off by itself, but that's minor :-) Then the key became stuck in the igniton. Now about 3 months ago, the AC would momentarily turn off when I hit any of the power window buttons (includes heat or any blower functions at all)--then the 2 brake lights on the dash started going on and off constantly--at this point the the AC and windows entirely ceased to function. I'm a divorced mom and I don't have anyone to help me, and auto problems are a HUGE expense. I have had this truck for 10 yrs and it has been so reliable it ALWAYS starts for me but this was making it impossible here in FL not being able to turn on the AC OR ROLL THE WINDOWS down when it's 98 outside. I'm going to buy the IGN switch and change it out and I hope so much this fixes it! TY ALL!
  • If this only effects the automatic headlights but they work if you turn the switch manually you might have a weak spring on the emergency bake if the E-brake is depressed even slightly it will disable the automatic headlights from working....Good luck :D
  • Hi,
    I had the same problem with my 98 Blazer. The problem is definetly the low speed sensors I changed mine and it still didn't work most of the time when you replace the sensors alone they don't work. I replaced the both hubs with the matching sensors and that did the trick!!!! Actually it dosen't hurt to replace the hubs as part of your maintenance. Good luck :)
  • nickyp1nickyp1 Posts: 7
    edited March 24
    Hi,
    I know its been a long time since you posted the problem with your blazer (4x4 problem) I was wondering if you ever fixed it and if you did what the problem was? :confuse:

    [Email removed]
  • Hi. I also have a 1995 S10 Blazer and have had EXACTLY the same issues with mine, and got those issues fixed. With mine, there were two things going on: the hard starting was due to an old and crusty distributor cap that needed to be replaced (go ahead and put a new rotor on while you're at it). Cost: about $50. As for the electrical issues, that's all in the multi-switch. Unfortunately, many of the blazers electrical functions (lights, wipers, cruise control) all run through the multi-switch on your steering column. It's not too hard to replace (and can be done without taking off the steering wheel if you're patient) but the OEM price is over $200. I looked around & found one at an online discount parts place, brand new & looks exactly the same as the original for under $70 (including shipping). Looks like you're in luck because I emailed myself the link to that part when I found it so I wouldn't lose it. Here it is. That's my 2 cents. Good luck!
  • i also have a 95 blazer s10. i found that the wire attached to battery wire the thin line did not have a good connection and car would not start and stalled out a few times before i fixed it. keep that in mind. danny.......
  • So i have been having Electrical problems with the suv lately mainly the windows would go down but not back up, or would go down very slow, or not at all. so i took it into goodyear they said i needed an ignition switch$, so i had it done. tested the windows in the lot they went up down fine, go it home they would not work. so i started playing around and found that the fuse( circuit breaker) for the power windows was getting so hot that i could barley touch it. Why is that, i assume its why the windows will not work. I was told i needed a new alternator, or i have a short in a door or somewhere. also sometimes the voltage gauge is low or moves. I have found that leaving the fuse( circuit breaker) out while running the truck and only putting it in to roll the windows up in down works half the time (thank god i have a garage) but when i pull the fuse out( circuit breaker), it is so hot i cant touch it. Any idea on what it could be before i go have this alternator done?
  • While driving, I constantly hear blinking as if I have my signal light on. It is not blinking/flashing on my dashboard, but always hear it blinking while car is running and driving; not when car is turned off. It doesn't appear externally, so it isn't a hazard while driving; only annoying to hear. Signal lights work just fine. I've replaced the flasher relay, not the problem. Anyone heard of a Steering column recall.
  • I can not open the tailgate of my blazer 2000. When pressing the button sounds like it is trying but does not open.
  • bob_55bob_55 Posts: 3
    edited November 2012
    If you do have to replace the signal switch, or any part, for an even cheaper solution try an auto-wrecker. However the two down sides are: 1) You may have to get the part out yourself. Get the part out of the wrecked car first, that way you can figure out how it is removed without worrying about breaking the "decorative" plastic pieces on the steering column. The other problem 2) is that the part you are getting may have (or soon have) a similar issue. That being said at $20 each it is much cheaper.

    I go to http://www.picknpull.com for my wrecking parts.
  • bob_55bob_55 Posts: 3
    edited March 24
    If you do have to replace the signal switch, or any part, for an even cheaper solution try an auto-wrecker. However the two down sides are: 1) You may have to get the part out yourself. Get the part out of the wrecked car first, that way you can figure out how it is removed without worrying about breaking the "decorative" plastic pieces on the steering column. The other problem 2) is that the part you are getting may have (or soon have) a similar issue. That being said at $20 each it is much cheaper.

    [non-permissible content removed]

    One more thing...

    REMOVE THE NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL FOR THIS REPAIR!!!

    When working around the steering wheel there is always the chance that you might trigger the airbag.
  • I have the same sound of the signal without the signal light issue (The sound is the relay behind the glove box). Mine started with the timed wipers not working correctly; then went to the signal sound; and finally the heater fan quit. My guess is it is the signal switch causing my first two problems and the heater issue is a fuse that blew because of the original signal switch problem.

    I will post when I find the solution.
  • mstarkeymstarkey Posts: 1
    Hi I have a 1998 Blazer that my brother and I just replaced the heater core in(what a pain!) after we were all done I am having some issues with the dome light and radio shut off. The dome light wont come on at all, not even with the wheel switch, unless i open one of the back two doors(4 door). Also the radio wont shut off unless I open one of the back doors. I checked the 2 front door switches and they are both plugged back in, as we had to disassemble the whole dash to do the heater core. It worked fine before the heater core project, so i assume the switches didn't just go bad, or is that a possibility? I did break one of the small courtesy bulbs on the passenger side floorboard area so i thought a fuse may have been blown, but that doesn't seem to be the case, and yes i replaced the bulb.
  • bitterbitter Posts: 22
    I believe that you should go back and inspect the wire for the front door switches again. All of your malfunctions are predicated on the door opening. Make sure that all connections are securely affixed and tight. Have to start somewhere.

    Bitter
  • bitterbitter Posts: 22
    Anyone no anything about an Electrical problem with an 03 Trail Blazer resulting in the key being stuck in the ignition? The vehicle starts right up and shuts off but the key wont turn completely back to the remove position. The gear selector button will not depress and the blower motor will not come on. The blinkers will not function and the service 4wheel drive light is on in the dash. This all happened at once. Any answers or suggestions? I have changed the ignition switch (small black box in steering column) and the key lock cylinder. Twice! Can anyone point me in the right direction? There also is an issue with reduce engine power activating continuously. It used to only do it in cold weather. Now it doesn't matter what temp. I hate to say that my used Toyota and Honda has been of better service to me than my new Chevy's. This is what makes me "bitter." First my Blazer and now my Trail Blazer.
  • I have a ticking sound in motor 4.3 think its a lifter or some thing else low oil presser and a slight mise in the moter as well or a rocker to I think?? cant figer out the back wiper dose not work may be the motor is bad in it as well and dose not engage into 4 wheel drive all so?
  • i am having a starting problem with my 1995 blazer ls it starts every once and a while but it seems like the battery is disconected but everything is tight with the battery
Sign In or Register to comment.