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Ford Ranger Transmission Questions

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  • 20532053 Posts: 1
    I am in the process of replacing the clutch on my 2003 Ford Ranger. It is a 2 wheel drive (4 cylinder with a 5 speed transmission). I have removed 8 bolts (13mm hex head bolts x 2 1/2" long) from around the transmission housing bottom and sides and can feel one more in a very akward position high on the right side (passenger side) of the housing (positioned near the front O2 sensor).
    The Haynes manual that I own does not indicate how many bolts there are in total nor does it show a picture of their locations. It appears to be very difficult if not impossible to access if there are any bolts located along the top of the housing.
    Questions:
    1. How many bolts (13 mm head x 2 1/2") are there in total? So far, I have removed 8 and have found 1 more as noted above.
    2. Are there any (13 mm head x 2 1/2") along the top portion of the tranny to engine?
    3. If there are, how do you access?
    4. Other than the dowel pins, are there any other bolts or nuts that must be removed along the tranny to engine that must be removed?
    5. I searched the web for pictures of the bolt locations. Can anyone direct me to a site or manual that shows this.
    6. The manual also references removal of the speedometer cable. I do not see this. Where is this located?
  • uneasyuneasy Posts: 1
    Can I put a transmission from an 88 ranger 5 spd into my 92 ranger
  • vicavica Posts: 3
    I have a 1999 ranger.....3.0, 4 wheel drive. When it shifts from 2nd to 3rd it will go right back into second and stay there. I have had the computer looked at and the transmission apart and looked at with no results. I also had the valve body changed and it is still doing the same thing. Any help would be great. Thanks
  • fordfan_17fordfan_17 Posts: 175
    you stated you had the vb changed did you put a used vb on it or did you get a reconditioned vb ? these unit have a severe problem with the vb and usually it wont go away unless you buy a vb that has had all the new valves put in it
  • vicavica Posts: 3
    It was a used vb.....
  • fordfan_17fordfan_17 Posts: 175
    ok so are you getting any codes ie p0733 gear ratio error in 3rd and p0735 gear ratio error in 5th? if your answer is yes then you will need to replace the vb with a recon valve body assembly. its the only way to get rid of this problem. hopefully you havent damaged anything in the unit yet.
  • ahinsonahinson Posts: 17
    YSE ONLY MERCON NOT A COMBINATION
  • for about 2 weeks i've been having to pump my clutch several times to get it to go in gear(while cold) once the truck warms up it seems to do ok. today when i went out to go to work no matter how many times i pumped clutch it would not go into any gear the truck would just ease forward or backward as if clutch was not disengaged. my question is does this sound like a slave cylinder issue considering clutches dont usually come and go. vehicle is an '03 ford ranger edge 4x4 5spd
  • fordfan_17fordfan_17 Posts: 175
    yes its a slave issue but recommend replacement of slave and master at same time
  • Hi

    I'm changing the 3-4 silinoid out one a 88 ranger. Can anyone tell me how many torque lbs for the lower vavle body bolts.
  • fordfan_17fordfan_17 Posts: 175
    71-97 INCH LBS of torque on main control and reverse servo cover
  • next question would be since this is an internal slave cylinder. is there any way to get it out without dropping tranny? if not is there an inspection panel on tranny to bleed system after replacment or do you have do a bench bleed? any tips or known problems with dropping tranny and replacing slave cylinder would be appreciated as this will be my first dealings with an internal slave cylinder as well as a ford.
  • fordfan_17fordfan_17 Posts: 175
    no way to change without removing transmission and the bleed port is on the drivers side right next to where the hose from the master cylinder connects. push the 2 little white clips INWARD to remove master to slave hose at slave... hint.. after trans removal and replacement its best to elevate the front of the truck to bleed the clutch system. ford rangers ahve always been a pain in [non-permissible content removed] bleeding due to master cylinder attachment angle
  • appreciate the advice i am going to put it to use friday. probably just going to change clutch and resurface flywheel while in there in hopes to not have to be in there again for a good little while, since there is nothing about the little truck that has been cheap to repair so far
  • figured i would bleed the system before i do anything else. while i was bleeding system started with a gravity bleed and fluid just barely trickled out, then i went a standard bleed. while i was doing this on second bleed a bunch of white stuff looking like lithium gease came out of the bleeder plug. any idea what this is could it possibly be moisture in the hydraulics? truck was recently wrecked and sit at body shop with hood off for several weeks. after six or a good times of standard bleeding i went to the gravity bleed again, except this time i had a steady stream of fluid coming out. it will go in all gears now but clutch is fully engaging right at the very top. any ideas or suggestions on this?
  • jeff104jeff104 Posts: 1
    I have the original Mazda 5 speed transmission in this truck (2.3L). I seem to have plenty of clutch pedal, with no slipping.

    Issue #1: It is very difficult to get this truck in gear at times, when sitting still. As long as I am on the move it is fine. I replaced the bushings at the bottom of the shift lever and it did not help.

    Issue #2: Today as I eased off in 1st the truck stalled. I cranked and tried again and it stalled a second time. On the third try I realized that the clutch pedal was stuck near the floor (but I think the transmission and engine were engaged). I pulled it up and pressed it down several times and it eventually loosened and worked fine after that. I have plenty of fluid int he clutch reservoir. Any ideas on either of these?
  • 2young2young Posts: 1
    i have a 1999 Ranger that the speed sensor just stoped work for me on thursday night. Monday I paid $21.49 for the sensor fixed my problem. All I needed was a 3/8 socked to loosen the bolt to R & R.
  • probably dont wanna hear it but sounds like it is time for a new clutch master and slave cylinder. may try bleeding it first but usually only a short term remedy. if your 92 is like my 03 then the slave cylinder replacment requires a tranny drop so you might want to think about new clutch while ya got the tranny out. hope tha info helps. good luck
  • jre56jre56 Posts: 7
    My 2004 Ranger wheel hops when I hit broken up street if I'm going 40 or more Mph.It's hops so bad that I almost lost control.Do I need Shocks or are my springs too stiff? What can I do? Thanks!
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    What's the air pressure in your rear tires?
  • jre56jre56 Posts: 7
    I can't remember off-hand what the pressure is but it's the recommended psi that's listed on the doorwell.
  • earle48earle48 Posts: 1
    while backing out of my drive way this afternoon, i heard a bang and the transmission quit backing up. the trans works fine in drive. drove around the block. the trans shifts and acts normal in drive, lo and neutral. anyone got any ideas on the problem and how to fix it??? the ranger is a 3.0 flex fuel with 111,000 miles-great truck!! any help deeply appreciated--thanks!!
  • endevoreendevore Posts: 1
    I have an '03 Ranger with only 49,000 miles. I got a notice from my dealer telling me the transmission is due for service. I called the dealer and the service writer said it needs to be flushed and filled. I was talking to a friend who works at a transmission repair shop and he says the flush is just a waste of money, that new filter and fluid should take care of any issues. I can't find anything in my owners manual that says it should be flushed, does anyone have a good answer?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Flushes, in my opinion, are a waste of money, and on high-milage trannys might even cause problems if 'sludge' is broken loose and lodges somewhere else in the tranny.

    If you look at your owner's manual, you will probably see a maintenance schedule for the transmission at 100,000 miles. You are far from this milage. If you wish to be extremely conservative on this, you could go ahead and have the transmission pan dropped and the filter replaced (this is all that is probably called for at the 100,000 mile service, not a 'flush') and the 3 or 4 quarts of fluid replaced that is lost when this is done. The cost for a filter and gasket would be about $35 or less, and labor should not be over one hour. $135 at most. I bet the 'flush' would be about $225 dollars or more.

    Or, if you have better things to do with your money, do nothing. As I said, you are far from the 100,000 miles that I bet is the schedule for tranny service. UNLESS YOU TOW with this truck. Then, I would change the filter/fluid now.
  • sets1sets1 Posts: 1
    what is the average lifetime mileage on 2003 ford ranger auto trans and is the maintenance for fluid and filter change at 100,000
  • jre56jre56 Posts: 7
    I have a 2004 Ranger 4x4 and my manual says change trans fluid every 30,000 miles.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I don't know anything about 4x4.

    I would think the tranny service on a regular drive would be 100,000 miles.
  • jre56jre56 Posts: 7
    Ok I did a search on the Ford site and I was wrong.It's 150,000 miles before it needs changing.
  • 1999 Ford Ranger XLT, 4.0ltr V6, won't go into gear. This issue seems to be predominent from a stopped position. IE when I first attempt to place the truck into gear or at a traffic light (stopped). On the highway it seems to shift fine. When I am stopped and it won't go into gear, if I move the shifter into the pattern (ie first gear) it won't go all the way in but I can feel the truck want to engage (small jolt) as if it's in gear and the clutch were engaged at the friction point.
  • i have a 2000 mazda b3000 with the automatic overdrive transmission. it recently started shifting into second gear really hard, and the overdrive off light on the dash starts flashing. any idea what would cause this
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