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Ford Ranger Transmission Questions

145791016

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  • Well, from the reading I've done through various forums, this forum seems to be reluctant to post, I gather it's a clutching issue. I've checked the hydraulic fluids and the levels are good, the master cylinder is good but the slave cylinder I'm not so sure about. The general concensus in this situation is the clutch but there have been a number of posts that suggest the slave cylinder as the culprit. However, they also suggest that bleeding / replacing the slave cylinder may only resolve the issue temporarily (by bleeding the slave cylinder they mean the entire system). Another post suggested that if you pull up on the clutch pedal it may help (I guess this is in reference to adjusting) this does nothing by the way (at least in my case - it's self-adjusting after all and there's no where for the clutch to go "up" - when it's out it's out).

    The resolution I have come up with is to allow a few minutes for the system to warm up and I find that if I keep the RPMs up the shifting goes a lot smoother. Also, I've noticed that when it is difficult to get into gear, turning on the heating / cooling system will then allow me to go into gear so I'm guessing this is a load issue which is what makes me suspect the slave cylinder.

    What I'm doing now, because I believe I may also have noticed slipping is to drive it until it gets stuck IN gear or flat out slips blatantly at which point I will exchange the clutch.

    Wish I could be of more help but there are some other issues with the Ranger that I'm still working on - most recently a lit parking brake light on the dash that stays on intermittently (fluids are fine, could be emergency brake switch) and the check engine light that comes on every so often then disappears but the truck still drives normal, no stalling, squealing, pinging, knocking - could be a gas cap issue but like I say, still working on it - the code is proprietary to ford (tried to have it read at two separate shops) so I'm reluctant to dish out $150.00 to have it read when the truck's running fine.

    If you do find a solution I'd be ecstatic if you'd let me know. :)

    Cheers!

    C
  • sounds like there is a pretty good chance slave cylinder is going on ya. i have an 2003 ranger 4x4 with the 4.0. mine acted a fool for about three months and finally left me stranded at work at 2 am none the less. i did the hole bleeding thing and it helped for awhile but ultimately in the end was a waste of time. slave cylinder is internal so you might as well change clutch. just changed mine about two months ago slave and clutch assembly ran bout 300.00 dollars and bout two days work. good luck. oh and when you bleed it pull up on a hill. will help getting air out of system tremendously
  • just wondering if any one had an idea about this issue. i am having the same problem with the O/D not turning off. what was the fix to this problem. my vehicle is a 2000 3.0L automatic ford ranger
  • That's what I was afraid of. LOL Thanks for the advice I appreciate it. I was hoping against that.
  • mgundemgunde Posts: 2
    When I start my truck in the morning or after work, there is a clunking thud sound that comes from the tranny area, it only happens when the truck is cold, its there only for the initial start up and goes away, its like something is being released any ideas on what this is?
  • mgundemgunde Posts: 2
    Even with the fan off, there's always cold air coming out of the vents, whats up with this?
  • Help! My 2000 ranger currently will not shift gears and the check engine and abs lights are on, and the o/d light flashes. Also, the speedometer doesnt work. Does anyone know why this is happening and what needs to be done to fix it? Ty!
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I think this is a 'standard' problem for Rangers, but I'm not sure of the problem. It may be the ABS sensor that is in the rear differential has failed, and it causes all these problems. If this is it, it's not a terrible expensive repair. Remove the electrical connection, one bolt, pull out the old sensor, put a new one it.
  • hello, i was wondering if you were able to figure out the problem with your truck? My ranger actually did the same thing to me today on the way to work! If you have already fixed it could you tell me what the problem was and to fix it? thanks!!
  • yes I did get it fixed, it was the abs speed sensor and the part is only about $30. However with labor, I paid a little over $100. Hope this helps!
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Ah, so I got one right....
  • we change a trannsmission in a 1992 ford ranger 3.0L 2wheel drive now truck wont start
  • I have a 2002 Ford Ranger and the engine is shot - was wondering if it was a good idea to put in a used engine with 41,000 on it for $1600 plus labor
  • jre56jre56 Posts: 7
    There's a few factors you have to weigh.What condition is the used motor? What condition is the transmission in,is the body in good shape.Who's installing the motor(are they competent?).What kind of warranty are they offering?1600 + labor seems a little high for a motor + labor install.I had a motor installed in a 1995 Tracker and it costed me 1200, labor included with a 90 day warranty and it had 42,000 miles on the motor.Anytime you change a motor or a trans. you never know what you're getting until you drive it for a while.So good luck !
  • Is there a Ranger 5 speed that will bolt up to a '49 Ford F1 239 Flathead?
  • i also have a 91 v-6 3.0. my automatic trans does some weird stuff. at 65mph and 2000rpm it will be fine then for no reason it will down shift and push 2700 rpm then some times from 65 mph it will not even kick into passing gear but at lower speeds it will kick into passing gear with no problem. it constantly shifts up and down even when not neccesary. my fuel millage went south it does not feel as if the trans is slipping, it just is not staying in the upper gears. I live in florida and the interstate is near by i checked and to mantain 75mph the motor is at 3000 rpm and it wont go into passing gear. It goes into passing gear but does not engage. it acts like i put it in nuetral and if i let up off the gas it goes back to 2200rpm for a mile or two then right to 3000 rpm and stays there .any ideas what could cause this i checked vacum and eletrical connections every looks good. Is there a cellanoid inside the transmission that controls the shifting? any help would be great thanks
  • I own a 1992 Ford Ranger 6 cylinder 4 speed + overdrive. It sometimes will go into reverse just fine and at others it shifts into reverse but when you let up on the clutch nothing happens the truck remains in neutral and a very loud grinding occurs. You can feel this grinding in the shifter knob. It now occasionally does this between gears however the sound goes away when accelerating or stopped, it only seems to happen when decelerating or reverse. Also, it sometimes won't "catch" gears when I shift and will instead cruise in neutral with this odd grinding noise. I drained the tranny oil and replaced. No luck. It tends to be fine when it is cold, however gets increasingly difficult when the truck has been driven for a bit. I've talked around trying to gain advice, some people say the tranny's gone others tell me its a bearing on my clutch. I have never had a truck that grinds and whines at me so I'm not sure what to think and would like some other people's opinions before dropping my tranny. thanks.
  • gab3gab3 Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Ranger that I thought had a tire shake, I replaced all 4 rims and put new tires on, still have shake took tires back and had rebalanced twice. Still shakes, univerals are tight. This shake is driving me crazy I can't even play a cd with out it skipping, shake starts around 50 mph and if I make it to 60 mph it shakes real bad almost as if all 4 tires are loose. also I have 4 new shocks installed as well so it's not that.
    If anyone could help I would greatly appriciate it.
    thanks
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Drive shaft/universal joint problems?

    Is this an extended cab, which may have a 'split' drive shaft? Essentially two drive shafts with a bearing in the middle. The bearing may be bad.
  • i have an 03 ranger that was doing similar. turned out to be a bad drivers side front wheel bearing. the easiest way to tell is jack up front of truck and see if either front tire has any play when off the ground. if so it is a bad wheel bearing. on the two wheel drive models the inner and outer wheel bearings are approx, $3.00 dollars a piece and farely easy to change. bout 30 minutes a piece. on the 4x4 of mine it was a hub assembly and it went from $3.00 dollars to $285 dollars just for the part still only took bout 30 minutes to replace. hope this helps
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