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GMC Yukon AC and Heat Questions

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  • We just bought a 2004 Yukon XL and are having some problems with the with the front heater. the fan will blow if we turn the key to the aux. position but will not blow once you start the engine. The rear heater works fine, and there is a sound coming out of what looks like a little speaker just about my head on the driver side. I have read on this forum that it is a sensor. could fixing the problem with the blower fan be just as simple as replacing the sensor or do I have bigger problems?
  • I have an 05 denali that i lost the brake lights and cruise control. The 3rd brak light works but not the taillights. I changed the bulbs and all fuses associated with the cruise and braklights. SO far no luck. someone told me the signal change stem may be the issue. Can anyone help? Thanks
  • my9ranchmy9ranch Posts: 1
    Ac blows great just today started only blowing out top vents like it's trying to defrost
    all other functions work fine heat / ac. Fan high/low every thing fine except changing were you want air to come out. Any ideas
  • This works!!! Thank you for saving me a couple of hundred $$$$$!
  • brewer005brewer005 Posts: 1
    edited May 2010
    First time posting....

    My rear A/C is working fine, however, my front vents will only blow out cold air if I'm driving down the road/highway. If I come to a stop, the airflow is dead. Not sure if it is my blower, or possibly the blower resistor board (based on my research on these forums).

    Any thoughts? Easily fixed, cost, etc...

    Thanks.
  • foussfouss Posts: 2
    my truck blows cold air at driver side vent and hot air on pasenger side dash vents.any ideas which actuator it might be?
  • saceriosacerio Posts: 1
    ac is turned on but no cold air. comp. is on but nothing. hot air works. evaporator is cold.I think its the actuator but dont know what it looks like or were its located.2004 yukon xl.
  • bmkbmk26bmkbmk26 Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Yukon SLT and the fan will not shut off until at least 1-2 hours after we shut the car off. It is draining the battery consistently.
    Any ideas would be helpful.
    Thank you
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,100
    Hello Bmkbmk26,
    I am from GM Customer Service. I apologize that you have had an issue with your vehicle. Can you please email me more information about your concern so I can look into your situation further? You can find my email by clicking on my name. Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • i have been looking over these posts to help answer my problem. on my 2005 Denali the air conditioner vents will not blow to the passengers. they split between the defrost and the floor. the fans and the temps works fine. the problem seems to be with the vent doors are not changing. i have read to pull the fuse and also disconnect the battery. are these the correct recommendations for my problem? i hope someone can help with this problem

    thank you,
  • I have an '04 with this dual-zone problem and the procedure was to pull the fuse(s) (they are at two locations, the drivers door fuse panel and the panel on the transmission hump, I yanked them both to be sure.) I then keyed to the "run" position (did not start) and then keyed off. Replacing the fuses I started up the truck and the PLC cycled the actuators to find their limits. Happens at least once a year! :mad:
  • mslimanmsliman Posts: 4
    I am experiencing a parasitis loss. I checked it with my multimeter and It was either 7.0 amps. or 0.7 amps, not sure because i blew the fuse in my meter when I was checkign somethign else. When parked overnight the battery dies. I replaced the battery, and checked the alrernator (ok). After re-connecting the battery the front A/C did not work, and would only blow heat. The rear A/C works fine all along. Then I parked it for a few minuites. I started it back up and now the driver A/C is full cold, but the passenger side is Full Heat. Somethign is hanging open when I turn it off and draining my battery. I suspect the dual climate control module, or a door actuator. Has anyone else experienced this? How can I be sure what it is? Help.
  • loretta7loretta7 Posts: 2
    This happened with my 2003 Yukon XL. I took it to an A/C mechanic and would you believe it was simply 2 O rings that needed to be replaced ! Both were where the compresser and the freon pipe connect. I took him less than 20 min to replace each one and add back the freon that had leaked out bc of the worn O rings. I think one was where he connected to add freon and the other was at the switch connection to the compresser. If that's not it, it could be a bad switch. I found out that it regulates the compresser and if it gets stuck on "off", the compresser won't kick back on. Replacing that costs around $50. Good luck
  • loretta7loretta7 Posts: 2
    A/C condensation is not draining to the outside. Instead the rear carpet gets soaked. I was told the drains are clogged. How do I access them and unclog them?
  • mslimanmsliman Posts: 4
    What you are saying makes sense, but the A/C was working on one side, and not on the other. This also does not answer the question of my battery draining overnight. I took it in to a reputable ASE shop and of course it is working perfectly. The battery is not losing any juice overnight now. He did offer that he has seen this before, and the problem will no doubt resurface. When it does I should take it back in while it is still acting up.

    Thanks for the comments
  • svigilsvigil Posts: 5
    I have a problem with my 2004 Yukon XL Denali – The Drivers side AC will blow hot air while the others are blowing cold. I was told it is the Actuator however there are 3 (Air Inlet, Mode, and Temperature) will this fix the problem or is it something different?
  • 2004 GMC Yukon - I realize that the speedometer cluster was recalled which I didn't find out about until I had passed the 80,000 mile mark. That I can bear. Recently the seat heater control on the driver's side has started cycling (making a clicking noise near the dash fuse box) from high to medium to low and continues to do this for several minutes. Next came the traction control sensor indicator in the menu telling me that (although I hadn't touched it) it had been turned off. Saturday, I got into my truck and the battery was dead. Jump started it and it was dead again the next morning. Jumped it again and the air conditioning control panel was completely dead - and... in this Alabama 100 degree weather, heated air is blowing out of the vents. With no way to control it or turn it off... I am in misery. Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated.
  • Ok guys... this chick just disconnected the negative battery cable and then reconnected it. The air conditioner digital panel is now working, but the air is only blowing through the defrost...but it's COLD!!! Thank goodness! Not sure how to fix this now that it's locked in one position... any comments?
  • msann5533msann5533 Posts: 1
    edited June 2010
    rear air no blowing 2003 yukon xl
    I am having a problem with my rear a/c in a 2003 yukon xl. NO air is blowing out of it, hot nor cold. The front air blows fine.

    Does anyone have a suggestion? thanks
  • bulldog26bulldog26 Posts: 1
    GMC Yukon front air conditioning works great but it has no air coming out of the rear vents at all. any help appreciated.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,100
    Hello Bulldog26,
    Have you had anyone diagnose the problem with your vehicle? How long has the concern been present? Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • bcrawfo2bcrawfo2 Posts: 7
    My 2004 Yukon Denali has almost always had the hot on passenger side...cool on driver's side. I took it in and they "reprogrammed" it back in 2006. The problem still occurred. Figured they'd keep reprogramming every time, so I just lived with it.
    I could either just restart the car or turn the heat all the way up...then back down.
    I recently started reading about this problem and did the relearn (pull the fuse under the hood) and now I have hot air coming out of the defrost all the time. I've tried relearning a few times (by the way).
    Where do I go from here? I wouldn't think all my actuators went bad. Does that mean it's one of the control modules?
    I've put a call into the dealer and explained my case. I stated that I know I'm out of warranty, but it's a well known problem that I did report. I mostly don't want to pay for them to guess at things. Willing to pay to get it fixed...only if they fix it...and just what's wrong.

    Thanks for any thoughts.
    Scott
  • AC/Heater control position has no effect. Constant defrost. Thank goodness the AC works in defrost at least. Is it a vacume line or faulty switch? Thanks for the help!!!
  • bcrawfo2bcrawfo2 Posts: 7
    After a long weekend and a 6 hour car ride the AC switch to blowing out the dash vents again.
    I'm still amazed that GM won't admit something is wrong here.
  • ilmk123ilmk123 Posts: 3
    The one you are looking for is under the dash ,right behind the consol and the start of the hump. You will need a 6mm or 7 mm. The mode actuator is located on the drivers side right above the gas pedal. Check out this link and it will help you. I have mine torn apart right now for the 3rd one........Scott
    http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15787&highlight=Blend+Door- +Actuator
  • bcrawfo2bcrawfo2 Posts: 7
    Thanks for the pictures. I wanted to try this but read a lot of the forums talking about taking the whole dash apart. I messed with this part one day investigating and couldn't get to that back screw out. I didn't try TOO hard.
    Strange question...
    Can I remove the actuator and move the door by hand....drive for a few days (knowing that side will be stuck on cold) then wait for the replacement part?
  • ilmk123ilmk123 Posts: 3
    Yes that screw is a PITA. and yes you can. But at highway speeds tha door can change directions and start blowing hot air. I learned that one that hard way tonight. I heard if you get these at the dealer they are costly. You can get them on e-bay or parts store. Search that thread on how to calibrate them. You can e-mail me at ilmk123@mchsi.com.....Scott
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    You can e-mail me ...

    Let's keep the discussion here so everyone can benefit. We ask that people not post email addresses in messages posted to our Forums. Thanks!

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • bcrawfo2bcrawfo2 Posts: 7
    Thanks everyone....
    Wow...that was a PITA.
    Even getting the hush panel off was tough. That screw nearest the actuator...man. Who builds these things?
    The screws on the actuators seem to be 5.5mm, not 6. I was killing myself on the back with a 6mm. My socket set doesn't have a 5.5, but luckily a 7/32 if memory is right worked.

    I have my actuator out (52402588). Does anyone have a favorite cheap place to order, the right part?
    I saw another post (dang if I can't find the link) that said some of the replacement parts were mis-labelled and were for the wrong side. This would allow the door to swing once and then get stuck.

    Scott
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