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GMC Yukon AC and Heat Questions

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  • Air Conditioner suddenly switches to heat. Turn car off and turn back on and it fixes it. What is the problem?
  • Your situation might have a bad electronic door in vent. I forget what the name of the part is....From what I';ve read from others in here it is a very expensive fix. $1000-$1400.
    Entire dash needs to be removed.
    I'd sell the rig...
  • Hello,

    I have a 95 yukon with the same issue. Did you ever figure out a fix?
  • ok, I'm going to start this again. the blower still works,but the vent selection knob will not change where the air flows and the a/c snowflake light button does not turn on the a/c.when you hit the button to turn on a/c it feels like the vent just pulling in outside air.The recycle but also does not come on to recycle the cabin air.I have checked all fuses ,they are all good.all levels of the blower switch works,just not the position select switch or the buttons.please help!
  • Yes my issue was resolved. I posted step by step a few postings back...
    It worked for me and several others, simply disconnecting battery for 30 minutes did for others.
    If your issue started after a dead battery, you need to re-calibate climate control systems memory.
    If issue just happen suddenly without battery problems, it more than likely the electronic door inside vent needs replaced. $$$$$
    I forget what that part is called.
  • Yes I just got it fixed today.My problem was a left temp door actuator(GM part # 89018365) Total cost to repair was $340 so i feel pretty good.
  • Good....lot of money but cheaper than most to fix in here...
    Did you fix it yourself? I've read the entire dash needs to be removed.. :mad:
  • No the GMC dealer did it but they gave me a break. They said that repair is usually $500
  • I have recently been having problem with the passenger side A/C. The rear A/C works, as does the driver's side, but the passenger side blows out VERY HOT AIR. Even when the entire unit is off (no heat, no A/C...just off), we can still feel hot air coming out by the floor. We've even shut the vents on the driver's side but can still feel the hot air blowing out. It's getting to the point where my radio/dashboard is getting warm/hot to the touch. Any ideas of what the problem could be?
  • I posted step by step instructions what worked for me.
    Go back few postings and see if it helps you.
    Harley :)
  • I can't believe it - it WORKED!!! Thanks a lot! You saved us a ton of hassle and $$$!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ;)
  • 2000 Yukon XL SLT i have the same trouble have you resolved this issue do you have any tips or are you still having this trouble
  • sneremsnerem Posts: 5
    This is the information that was given to me. It worked, and we have been having no more problems. Good luck!

    Owners need to re-program the climate control system which I did successfully.
    Disconnect A/C & HVAC fuses.
    Start and run for about 30 seconds, turn off.
    Install HVAC Fuse only. ( A/C fuses leave disconnected )
    Start and while driving turn on climate cold setting and run through the different controls, foot, vent, defrost etc. making sure the system is working properly several times.
    Turn vehicle off...
    Start and re-do sequence several times.
    Turn vehicle off.
    Install A/C Fuse
    Start while driving turn climate control on with A/C...
    These steps resolved the problem, re-calibrating climate control systems memory.
    Again, this should be a recall issue and thousands of loyal GMC customers are being charged $1,400 or more from dealers.
  • pfedpfed Posts: 1
    I have been having the same problem on my 03 Yukon XL with the A/C not shutting off when the car was turned off. I took it to the dealer where they charged me $417.64 to rplace the HVAC Control Module and repair wiring. One week later, my battery went dead and had to be replaced and they charged me $$137. I thought there must be a connection, but was told no. I have had numerous issues with this vehicle as well. I have always gone to the dealer. Now two weeks later, the bearing assembly needs replaced to the tune of $1300.
  • Another successful re-program of the climate control system. Thank you. I followed the steps to the T and everything is working fine. I'm sure you saved me hundreds. If I knew anything worth while about cars I would love to share. But I don't. Big help,
    Thanks Again
  • Your welcome !
    I also know little about working on new cars but refused to pay $1400 to dealership knowing this issue started because of a dead battery. Dealership knows hundreds of thousands of customers are dealing with this issue and you'd think they suggest the steps to correct I listed FIRST...no, they want $1400 for doing nothing.
    :)
  • tink6tink6 Posts: 2
    My fan will not blow air in the front unit even when putting fan to the max. Also when fan does work it may keep running after the vehicle is turned off. This is an intermittent problem but seems to becoming more regular. The rear unit works fine. Help any advice?
  • I haven't run into this problem...I had heat blowing in the front even when the unit was turned completely off. My boss's kid had problems with his fan still running long after his car was shut off (a Nissan), but I'm not sure what the problem was with that (I can ask her on Monday). Not sure if it would be the same problem you're having, but maybe that's a place to start. Sorry, wish I could be of more help.
  • tink6tink6 Posts: 2
    Thanks I'd appreciate it.
  • Surprise! My heater doesn't work. Had blend door accuators replaced last year and worked great ($600 p & l). Has been working, then all of a sudden just blowing lukewarm air. Accuators were new (bought them myself and installed by trusted mechanic). Anyway, I've tried pulling the A/C and HVAC fuses thing and running through the defrost, foot, etc... all that stuff and still lukewarm air. I haven't disconnected battery yet. Are there different steps for diff year models for the hard reset or recalibration or whatever they call it. I've read so many different things they are all starting to run together. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks
  • I have a 2004 GMC Yukon 2-wd and the heaters on the driver side isn't working. It only blows out freezing cold air yet the other vents work properly for heat.Can someone help me because it's freeeeezing right now. Thanks for your time in reading this post. :confuse:
  • I had the same problem on my 2004 Yukon. I had to have the left temperature actuator for that vent replaced for about $600 and it fixed my problem
  • I lost heat into the cabin on this car. I took the car to team Ford on Drexel Rd in Las Vegas NV. They performed an electrical diagnosis for 119.00. The service rep said that the actuator motor failed. He">e said he sees 1 to 2 of these problems about every 2 weeks. He said replacing the electric motor is expensive, 920.00 including in that amount the diagnostic charge above. I went on line and found a salvage parts site. I got a call from Quality Auto Parts that located an actuator motor for 421.00 no labor no guarantee. The motor is inside the dash assembly mounted on the AC duct on top. Derrick said they get lots of calls on this but they are scarce. Derrick said these actuators fail a lot and are used on Fords and Lincolns. He said these motors aren't stocked at dealers and are made on demand. That's why there so expensive.

    My questions:

    Does price sound too high, Am I being taken?
    (I'm definitely going to shop around)

    Is this a labor intensive repair? I see someone here got one replaced for 600.00.
  • $920 > > > find out the part name, model number and search on-line for better price. I would not buy used. unless the part has some sort of warranty. Heck you could be buying a failed actuator since it appears to be a common issue.
    Once you have the proper model number etc, it will be easy to locate a dealership that sells GM parts 10% over cost. I've purchased several GM parts out of a dealership on-line in Texas. If I can find info on them, I'll send it your way.
    Good luck :lemon:
  • frustrayedfrustrayed Posts: 4
    edited August 2008
    intermittently my drivers zone will change the temperature to full heat even if ac is on. So far i can get it to reset if i pull over and turn it off then restart. would like to know what the problem is and how i can fix it. am out of work so moneys tight. any help would be appreciated
  • refer to my post # 180 step by step instructions-
    same issues with my 2004, caused by a dead battery.
    did you have a dead battery lately?
    computer memory for air system needs to be reprogrammed.
    Other people have posted successful steps that were as simple as disconnecting the battery negative for 30 minutes.....
    good luck
  • HEllo, I have a simliar problem but recently i noticed my heat meter doesnt go up to 210 it goes above 160 but not past the next main mark( 185?) . a minimal amount of heat is coming out but not hot like it used to be. I also notice that in the summer the rear heat/ac would only blow hot air but now in the winter it blows cool air. I need to get the heat working because it is starting to freeze here in NY. Please help me figure out how to get my truck heat working again.
  • Make sure HEAT /AC OFF postions, start vehicle.
    Turn vehicle OFF.
    Disconnect ( - ) negative battery cable.
    Remove HVAC / AC fuses ( you might have fuses under dash and hood ? )
    Let vehicle sit 30 minutes.
    Connect ( - ) negative battery cable, start vehicle for few minutes.
    Turn OFF.
    Install HVAC / AC fuses.
    Start vehicle.
    ------
    your sounds like main computer systems needs to be re-set...
    these steps will do that.
    but of course always consult your dealer, they might advise alternative steps.
    Good luck.
    Merry Christmas..
    --
    GO OREGON DUCKS :)
  • Hey MrBrown366 took mine to a trusted mechanic. He took temp readings on thermostat and heater hoses coming out of firewall ( all were less than 100 degrees). Changed tstat and had heater core flushed, works like a charm. $160.00. Hopefully this heps
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