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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Electrical and Computer Questions

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Comments

  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,119
    pgallenstein,
    Thank you for taking the time to post your concerns and experience. I would recommend speaking with your dealer of choice. Let me know how things go at the dealer. Please feel free to email me directly at SocialMedia@GM.com. Please include your VIN, and current mileage. I look forward to your response.
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • burtmburtm Posts: 1
    I have a 2009 silverado VIN 3gcek233x9g248265 with 66250 miles. Tonight after a 30 min drive I stopped and turned the truck off for about 20 minutes. When I resumed my trip i noticed that the only instrument that was functioning was the volt meter. no speedometer, no tach, no change in the odometer for the entire six mile trip, no fuel gauge. the A/C, radio and engine were running fine. The only warning light was the ABS light. After two engine start and stop cycles everything seems to be back in order.

    Any ideas?
  • barnowl3barnowl3 Posts: 70
    Odd, that sounds like the problem that 2003 and 2004 had with their dashes. GM had sent us letters, but would only agree to replace the defect up until 70,000 miles. Friend had his dash replaced on his 2004 at his cost after about 72,000 miles.
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Posts: 1,964
    edited May 2012
    Good morning burtm,

    I checked your VIN to see if there were any open recalls on your vehicle, and there are not at this time. Given your mileage, you are outside of your Bumper to Bumper warranty but still within the following warranties until the date or mileage indicated (whichever comes first):
    Emission Select Component Ltd Wty until 11/30/2017 or 80,231 MI
    Powertrain Limited Warranty until 11/30/2014 or 100,231 MI
    Corrosion Limited Warranty until 11/30/2015 or 100,231 MI

    If you were to decide upon visiting a dealership to have this concern looked into, please let us know as we're available to assist in the process in whatever way we can. It may be a good idea to wait until this matter occurs more frequently if you decide upon this route. There would be a diagnostic fee involved and the technicians would need to be able to duplicate the event or have engine codes to read in order to move forward in the repair process.

    Best,
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • jeffreyajeffreya Posts: 4
    I have a hard time believing that a US company with the advertising slogan "Like a Rock" that has produced trucks with basic design and components purchased with the "lowest bidder" approach would have the gall to respond in this thread. The cheap, defective stepper motors used in Chevy dashboards are a disgrace and the fact that Chevy is standing on mileage instead of stepping up and just replacing the defective parts is pathetic. Defective is defective, no matter how many miles a vehicle has on it. And to think the American taxpayers bailed GM out......next time I vote no. Clean up your mess, GM.
  • sierra16sierra16 Posts: 1
    I will try to explain. I have a 2008 GMC Sierra 1500 4 wheel drive Z71. While driving down the road at no particular speed...could be 20 or 65mph, all das lights come on and throttle closes. Acts like a stall. After approximately 1 second, throttle re-opens and dash lights disappear and return to normal. Feels like truck stalls and restarts on its own while going down the road. I have taken the truck to a GM dealer and had a scan done and no errors are reported. Do i just wait until it dies on the road? What is causing this. Everyone seems perplexed.'

    Thanks
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Posts: 1,964
    sierra16,

    I'm sorry to hear that your dealership was unable to duplicate or diagnose the cause behind the throttle closure you described. If we can look into this further with you, please send the following information to socialmedia@gm.com: your name/Edmunds username, phone and address, the last 8 of your VIN and current mileage, and the name of your involved dealership.

    Best,
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • barnowl3barnowl3 Posts: 70
    Thunder 3000,
    Let me help you as I have learned that either GM Engineering or GM Management has chosen to provide very poor databases or info on the defects on these trucks to Customer Service and their dealerships. GM issued a letter approx. in 2006 by Scott Lawson, General Director, Customer Service. Dashes in 2003 and 2004 are known defects ( may apply to other years as well). In the letter GM will not replace the dash unless you had the failure occur. Likely a known electrical manufacturing defect that presents itself intermittently, so good luck if you are on vacation. They extended the warranty to 7 years or 70,000 miles. They were sued over this short coverage period and then extended the dash replacement to 80,000 miles but you pay labor. Looks like you are stuck with the bill on this one. I had to bring my letter in for my friends 2004 which he had just bought used from that same dealer to prove it and the dealer finally paid for the dash. I actually think they take the cores for rebuild ( must be they know exactly what their mfg defect was)
    One other critical safety item that GM customer service does not keep in their database is the sudden failing brake lines in 2003 and 2004, but I have heard them go back to 2000. Lines rust, but theirs rusted real fast like I have never seen in my 35 years of driving in the NE, so the improper steel composition was used. You will note they now coat their brake lines. Your first failure will likely occur above your frame rail behind the drivers front tire. Correctly engineered brake lines with steel may rust, but they will typically seep. These trucks ( and it may have only been a run of them as all don't display this) will suddenly burst, typically during a sudden or emergency stop. The dual master cylinder tends not to do what would would expect as you are left with nearly no brakes. Replace these for the sake of your safety and others. I would not trust a GM replacement, but you can get SS aftermarket. This happened to me and had it not been for a shoulder I could veer off itnto, my GMC would have been decapitated beneath a tractor trailer. This was investigated by the NHTSA in 2008/09 and then suddenly the case was closed. You will remember that Toyota had rusty frame issues around these same years and actually bought trucks back from their owners, GM unfortunately does not even want to acknowledge this safety issue existed, so although GM Sarah is trying to help, you will find she can find nothing in the records. I had received the investigation forms from NHTSA. s I guess if they just keep quiet about it, the trucks will just eventually come off the road.
  • barnowl3barnowl3 Posts: 70
    Here is my VIN Sarah. 1GTHK29U33E176322. I am referring the brake lines that rust prematurely. I have already gone to the expense of replacing them with SS after 2 failures, so I would like to be compensated for those repairs, since the failure occurred in 4 years of ownership 30,000 miles. Though out of warranty, it seems that a critical safety item like this should have greater factor safety and not failed so early in it's design life. Luckily, I was able to run the truck off the road during an emergency stop on the highway, otherwise the end result would not have been good. I lost all braking capability, so the dual master cylinder did not do what it should have. The dealer completed a rear brake job one year prior , near the end of the warranty, as my rear rotors were very corroded, so the rear brakes should have stopped the truck, but did not. Thanks for any information you can find.
  • barnowl3barnowl3 Posts: 70
    Bran164,
    There was guy on here last year with similar year and had the exact problem as you. He was getting a lot of run around from the dealer, endless trips back and forth as the problem came and went. He was actually able to get a video of it and posted it on youtube and got a lot of attention. Apparently he did get a call from GM and then within a few days all the videos were removed from the net. Not sure if the Customer service reps have a record of that. Get a video of it if possible, because without it, I doubt you'll have any luck at a GM dealer if it isn't doing it for them. Good Luck!
  • hadlockhadlock Posts: 8
    Hi there, I'm almost embarrassed to post this given the more serious nature of the other problems listed here. But here goes. Recently the interior light does not go on when the door opens. So you open the door at night and stare at a dark interior. The only thing that has changed was the dealer replaced the instrument panel and I think this started at around the same time but the connection between those two makes it seem improbable as the cause. The two dome lights and the two lights by the mirror all work when you press their buttons so it is not a bulb. I can't find a door switch like in the old days that actuates the interior light. I've read the manual with no help. Went thru the available programming on the diagnostic center with no help. I know it must be something simple but darned if I can find it. If anyone has the answer I sure would appreciate it. Thanks, Steve
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,119
    hadlock,
    Thank you for taking the time to post your questions. Can you please email me directly with your VIN and the name of the dealer? I look forward to hearing from you. Have a great weekend!
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
    SocialMedia@GM.com
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Posts: 1,964
    Good morning barnowl3,

    I did not see any open recalls on your Sierra at this time; to pursue reimbursement for the brake line work I would encourage you to contact your dealership as this is where the paperwork would be processed. If they are not in agreement about the reimbursement, we can evaluate your situation further if you would please send the following information to sociamedia@gm.com: your name/Edmunds username, phone and address, the last 8 of your VIN and current mileage, and the name of your involved dealership.

    Best,
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • hadlockhadlock Posts: 8
    Christina, Many thanks for your prompt response. You were very helpful in getting my dash panel fixed. Must be nice to be able to solve people's problems!... and hard when you can't. In any event, I appreciate your "Can do" spirit. The vin on my truck is 1GTHC29658E148916. The dealer is Haselwood in Bremerton, Washington. I am not at all certain this is related to the dash replacement although it did seem to begin around the same time. I was posting to see if some other owner had a solution. But I appreciate your attention to this problem. These things used to be simple with the visible door switches but I'll be darned if I can figure this one out. Any advice or help you can provide will be appreciated. Thanks again, Steve
  • barnowl3barnowl3 Posts: 70
    Sarah,
    This problem first occurred in 2007, when the truck 4.5 years old, approx. 45,000 miles. This is when the first corroded brake line failed. Is GM willing to look back to that time and discuss the matter? I did not pursue the matter at the time, frankly out of disgust, and assuming they would do nothing being 1.5 years out of warranty. After reading that other trucks have had this exact same issue, is why I am pursuing it now. So, please let me know if GM will look at my records from that time. I have also saved some of brake lines and have pictures. I'm happy to to work with GM, but I also do not want to waste my time. I appreciate your honest response. Ed
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,119
    Steve,
    Have you tried to reset the DIC settings? If not, I would recommend trying that. Here is the information I found:

    EXIT LIGHTING
    This feature allows you to select the amount of time you want the exterior lamps to emain on when it is dark enough outside. This happens after the key is turned from ON/RUN to LOCK/OFF. Press the customization button until EXIT LIGHTING appears on the DIC display. Press the set/reset button once to access the settings for this feature. Then press the customization button to scroll through the following settings: OFF: The exterior lamps will not turn on.
    30 SECONDS (default): The exterior lamps will stay on for 30 seconds.
    1 MINUTE: The exterior lamps will stay on for one minute.
    2 MINUTES: The exterior lamps will stay on for two minutes.
    NO CHANGE: No change will be made to this feature. The current setting will remain.
    To select a setting, press the set/reset button while the desired setting is displayed on the DIC.

    APPROACH LIGHTING
    This feature allows you to select whether or not to have the exterior lights turn on briefly during low light periods after unlocking the vehicle using the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) transmitter.
    Press the customization button until APPROACH LIGHTING appears on the DIC display. Press the set/reset button once to access the settings for this feature. Then press the customization button to scroll through the following settings:
    OFF: The exterior lights will not turn on when you unlock the vehicle with the RKE transmitter.
    ON (default): If it is dark enough outside, the exterior lights will turn on briefly when you unlock the vehicle with the RKE transmitter. The lights will remain on for 20 seconds or until the lock button on the RKE transmitter is pressed, or the vehicle is no longer off. See Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) System Operation on page 2-5 for more information.
    NO CHANGE: No change will be made to this feature. The current setting will remain.
    To select a setting, press the set/reset button while the desired setting is displayed on the DIC.

    These directions are also in the owners’ manual. I hope this information helps. Let me know if this solves your problem.
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Posts: 1,964
    Hello barnowl3,

    Given the age of the vehicle, the face that the brakes rusted again outside of the 12 month/12,000 mile replacement part warranty, and the amount of time that has passed, I do not think that a reimbursement would be likely (however I cannot say this with absolute certainty). I know that this is not what you had wanted to hear, and I'm sorry that I was unable to assist further; in my previous post I was giving you the procedure for pursuing reimbursement.

    I wish you well,
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • hadlockhadlock Posts: 8
    Yes, tried this. It refers to the exterior lighting and not the interior lighting. Thanks
  • felix44felix44 Posts: 2
    I was wondering if you were ever able to get to to bottom of this issue,I'm having the same exact problem and no one seems to know how to fix it..please let me know if u were able to figure out anything..thanks
  • felix44felix44 Posts: 2
    I was wondering if you were ever able to get this issue resolved..I have the same exact issue and no one seems to know how to fix it..please let me know if u were able to get to the bottom of this...thanks
  • hadlockhadlock Posts: 8
    Christie, Thanks for your help. Fixed it. Turns out there is a dome lamp override button that got turned on by mistake. Found that because it was in the instructions.... duh! And here I thought I had read them.... :) Thanks again
  • i had a similar problem on my 07 sierra it would probably be the fuel valve purge solinoid. gm put it ina dumb spot its right under your drivers side in between the front and back doors cant miss it.. its a little black cannister with a line going in and a line going out and an electrical connector... when replacing it be careful not to damage the hoses... i did and the code for a leak came on.. i put electrical tape about 12 inches down both lines and it went away all good now you will replace about 2 of these if you own your truck for more than 10 years..
  • Hello All,

    I am having an issue with my 2010 Silverado LTZ, 4WD, Crew Cab Z71. The problem started as follows: day 1, Mileage 37400: Drove my truck to work and parked it, no issues. I went to start it at the end of the day and the truck would not start. I looked down at the info window which said "SERVICE 4 WHEEL DRIVE". We tried to troubleshoot different ways to get it to start with no avail, until we removed the battery cable for 30 sec and replaced it. Everything was back to normal. I brought it to the dealer to have them plug it in just to make sure everything was ok. Unfortunately that was not the case, the computer was reading 12 communication errors. Needsless to say I was now 1400 miles over the bumper to bumper which apparently "electrical falls under" GREAT. After about two days of tracking down each fault and a day to replace the Transfer Case Control Module they got the faults to clear and I got me truck back. Two days later I was driving down a dirt road (luckly I was only doing about 5 mph) the brakes locked up on their own and then the fault lights lit up. Service 4 wheel drive, service abs, service stable trak, check engine, service traction control). This time the vehicle remained running but was stuck in 1st gear. I disconnected the battery and once again everything was gone. I brought it back to the service center and this time there was 18 communication faults. 4 days later I got me truck back with a brake control module replaced. Ran fine on the way home. Today I drove it to my sons school. When leaving I started it up and notice that my fault lights were lit up again. Additionally it would not shift pass 1st gear, the gear selected indicator was not on, the speedometer, rpm were not working. Is anyone else had issues like this and if so what was to end point fix that actually worked. The service station is definitely trying to help and are currently working with me on the bills. But I thought I would try to help them with idea's. :confuse:
  • johnsavedjohnsaved Posts: 7
    It sounds like your truck is doing weird electrical things like my was. For me, it turned out that a main grounding point on the frame had come loose and was sending fluctuating voltages to the ECM's. If you haven't noticed already, for some stupid reason GM weather coats their frames with some sort of wax junk. My guess is that they come to the factory already waxed and then the assembly begins. My frame is a rusty mess due to water and ice getting between the wax and the steel frame in the winter. Then it freezes and the wax literally comes off in sheets, leaving large sections of steel unprotected. It looked like the ground points on the frame were never scraped down to bare metal before the wires were connected and when the water got behind the wax and froze, the ice pushed the wires out just enough to make the connections loose. The most noticeably loose ground was the one on the outside of the frame directly under the drivers door. It is just behind the front tire and get a direct hit from the road spray. My guess it is a loose ground. Good Luck!
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,119
    ironranger36,
    Thank you for taking the time to post your experience and concerns. Can you please email me directly with your VIN, current mileage, involved dealer, a brief description of your concerns (or a link to your post), and complete contact information? I would like to look into this further for you.
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
    SocialMedia@GM.com
  • zars210zars210 Posts: 1
    I am currently having the same problem with my 2007 Sierra Classic. I am wondering if anyone can help pin point which ground wire could be causing it. I have already replaced my ignition switch which didn't help. Thanks.
  • I had to get a lemon law lawyer to get General Motors to take back the lemon they sold me and I purchased a Ford.
  • General Motors sent a rep from their esis(?) department, after he plugged in to the computer of the truck he said, that when the truck gets a little chatter -like driving on a bumpy road- the computer tellls the truck that it is rolling over causing the air bags to deploy. HORRIBLE COMPANY it took an electrical fire, 2 air bag deployments, a lemon law lawyer and 7 months before they would take back a truck they knew was defective. :lemon:
  • I first noticed problems when my keyless remote would unlock all my other doors but the drivers side door. Then the radio started playing funny (like it's in a tunnel), my cruise control won't work and my passenger power windows won't roll down unless I use the front driver side buttons. I have searched the forum and found nothing. Has anyone else had this problem or can someone give me suggestions on what to do? Thanks.
  • Intermittent problem on my 2009 Chevy 1500 Crew Cab. While driving, suddenly get a Stabilator Trak Off message followed by a surge in RPM and numerous audible dings and warning lights on the dashboard. This goes on for approximately 10-15 seconds then everything appears to go back to normal. Then every few minutes, additional audible dings and warning lights go on and off for a few seconds. When the truck is stopped and turned off ALL electric is GONE...Turning the key has no effect...no interior lights, no radio, no fan, nothing. Moving the postive battery cable resets the computer and then everything appears to go back to normal. This problem has occured randomly 3 times in the last two months but there is no specific way to make it occur.

    After resetting the battery cable, I took the truck to a dealer. They ran diagnostics and found no errors, so the computer is resetting and clearing the memory of any issues. Dealer asked me to bring it back when it occurs and have them run diagnostics before shutting off engine. Unfortunately, it has only occured during off hours when the Dealer is closed. This time I left it at the Dealer in the Electric Dead state and will see if they find anything.

    Based on the numerous posts on this forum, it is obvious there is a serious design or production flaw in the Silverado/Sierra line. If you have experienced somthing similar to this problem, please let me know if a Dealer was able to correct the problem.

    Thanks
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