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Ford Escort Engine Problems



  • 1999 Escort Wagon, 2L, manual, upgraded to everything past SE except choking seat belts, 130K miles.
    At 120K engine lost two head bolts (cracked just past the head) on opposite corners ... right rear, left front. Replaced timing belt, water pump, shipped out the head (everything fine), etc. Since then the idle, when warm, stays at roughly (no tack) 1300 RPM for several minutes, then falls to roughly 600-700 RPM. "Give Ford $" light now stays on. Speed will not hold steady when car is ideling high ... I can't put it in 4th gear & hold speed, it falls, but not to proper idle. Mechanics have not fixed the problem. Over the last 10K, problem has increased in the duration (up to 2 minutes now) till normal RPM. This only happens when engine is at normal op. temp. & driven for 1/2 hour +.
    Thanks for your advice.
  • ;) if you are finding that your starter on your escort just clicks, replace you body grounds and main power wire for the battier and add 2 more body grounds to you car. the clicking of your starter will stop and everything should go back to normarl again. like a 0 gage wire from the engine to the chase of the car and make sure they are well clean. ;) ;) ;)
  • Hi im new here and was wondering if someone could help me out. My daughters boyfriends car is making a metalic noise when he revs it up. It idles fine with no noise but when he revs it up it makes the noise. It kinda reminds me of the older cars being out of time. I don't know squat about these newer cars so can someone out there tell me if it's possible that this could be the problem. Also, how do you time this car. thanks in advance.
  • My daughter went to advance auto today and had them hook up the dianostic reader. The code was...P1744 Torque Converter Clutch System Stuck in Off Position. What does that mean and is it something i can fix.
  • rhoelrhoel Posts: 1
    Hi, i have a 98 ZX2. Just recently broke the timing belt and brought it to mechanic to have it replaced. it runs good but the problem i'm having is, that the car keeps stalling after a 100km or so. i would let it sit for about 10 to 15 min and it would start again after it cools off and it would let me drive it again but not longer this time maybe 30 km and it would stall again :confuse: . cooland seems to be ok and it's not smoking or anything like if it's overheating. i just replaced the spark plugs i though maybe its the plugs but still the same thing.
    it has 220,000 clicks on it and it runs pretty good till u drive it for a while then it starts to act up.
    Anyone knows whats causing this ?
    Would really apreciate if anyone could help me.

    Tks... :)
  • jimbopbjimbopb Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Ford Escort 1.9 liter. NEW PLUGS, WIRES,O2 SENSOR,FUELFILTER,CHECKED FUEL PRESSURE,OK,new cat. converter,Had exhaust noise in engine compartment,replaced exhaust manifold gasket,new muffler.That fixed noise.I have to feather the gas to pick up speed. accelerates very slowly, hesitates badly.The engine compartment still gets very hot,the nut on the EGR tube gets cherry red and the cat. converter gets red. please help. I like working on cars but this is driving me crazy.
  • Hi!! i'm new first car on the road its a 97 ford escort only 79K miles on it, here it the problem. after driving for awhile the car seems to decelerate or should i say not accelerate as it should, there was a point in time where i put the accelerator almost to the floor and it was only going 30mph. and then at the same time the brake gets stiff. i had the oil changed, i also put in transmission fluid as well as fuel injection cleaner, nothing. then when i parked the car yesterday i noticed a green substance leaking from it, i am told this is anti-freeze. what is wrong with my car??? please help me!!!
  • token2token2 Posts: 5
    m 98 escort snapped timing belts twice. just take off the acc. belt and then take off the crankshaft pully, then take off the timing belt cover and the timing marks shoud be aroud the cam pully and the crank pully, but remember if you belt has alot of miles just replace it while you got it out. but remember when putting the belt on, when you tighten you tbelt it will move forward about 2 or 3 teeth because the the tensioner.
  • token2token2 Posts: 5
    where was the fuild leaking form? but i would get a compresion test and find out if all you cylinders are good, after that i depends on how it did on the test
  • token2token2 Posts: 5
    i have an 98 escort lx, and i have had it for about 3 yrs. now i got out of school and have money im thinking bout making it into a project car. i put about over 190,ooo(mostly highway) on it sense i got it. now it has over 270,000 on it, but the motor only has bout 20,000 the last motor dropped a valve seat, but both motors ran great it still got up and went for an escort. i just want info on how to make it a sleeper. plus i have alot of memories in it i've had it sense i was 18. any info on like turbo kits, suspension kits or anything that will make people say "are you sure the was an escort?" thanks
  • token2token2 Posts: 5
    it could be your fuel pump. i've worked on cars like that and when the fuel pump overheats in will shut off. but you shoud hookup a scanner and look at the pump and see what it does. IF it is the pump then change it but check it out first
  • I have had this car for almost 2 yrs now. I have replaced a bunch of parts like power steering pump, cv axle, struts, oil pressure switch, radiator, a belt, spark plugs & wires, etc. My new problem is that no body seems to know whats wrong with it now. It started at 1st making this strange a shushing, water like sound. Then the next day I turned it on and it sounded even louder. I went driving in it and got about a few blocks when it started smelling burned and over heated and shut itself off. I put it in neutral and parked it. It turned back on in like 5 mins. I got it back home and my family looked at it and said my fan wasn't workin right. They messed with it and then thought it was the compressor. But my a/c works just fine. Ever since then its been shutting itself off when I go to stop at a light or stop sign. And smelling burned on and off. Today I stopped at a store and when I got in the car and turned it on my battery light came on and the steering wheel was hard. I got it back home and when I popped the hood the belt that I bought brand new back in Feb. was broken. The belt looks great except for the fact it looks like someone cut it in half with a pair of scissors. I don't know whats wrong with the car. I have people tell me the compressor and some have said maybe the alternator. Can someone lend their advice please!!! I would highly appreciate it. Thank you.
  • I found a "brand new" 1987 Ford Escort EXP with a stick shift, 87,500 miles, and I think its had only 1 owner for $900.00.

    I heard about several people having problems with Escorts, but would these problems still be there even if the original owner maintained the car extremely well, including all wiring and wiring harness?

    But I heard the Escort engine itself is powerful, dependable, and reliable. And I've been seeing a lot of Escorts being sold cheaply for low miles. But, is it to make a quick sale for 16 to 20 year old Fords that were forgotten about or are they cars that you dump money in?

    To buy or not to buy?
  • I have a 2000 Zx2 automatic. When I bought it, it had 86,000 miles on it and it ran pretty good. About a month after I bought it, I put a ram-air-intake in it for various reasons.

    That was two years ago and now it has 120K miles. The car always seemed to have problems accelerating once it gets into 2nd gear. In 1st it is awesome and 3rd gear and up it is fast and smooth. But once it hits 2nd, it seems something is wrong. It could be at a dead stop, I would floor it: at the start I can keep up with any V6 or V8 car that wishes to race me, but as soon as it shifts to 2nd gear it seems to not accelerate much and over the past year, I have noticed a strange "gargling noise" as if it is not getting enough power, or fuel, or something. I replaced the fuel-filter and I keep all the fluids clear.
    I wasn't too worried, but I want to upgrade to a cold-air intake and I don't want to damage something by putting way more air than it can handle.

    PLEASE HELP!!! I'll accept any advise with appreciation.
  • gep2gep2 Posts: 2
    1.9l engine... am told the #1 plug is fuel-fouled, Firestone claimed the fouling was caused by a bad coil (so why no problems with OTHER plugs?) Anyhow, we got a new replacement coil and new plugs but don't even see the coil on the car...!! where is it? Is this something we need to have the shop replace, due to accessibility or something? And what are even the odds that it IS in fact a bad coil, if only ONE plug was fouled and misfiring?? How hard is it to replace this coil, and where is the little puppy to be found!!??
  • gep2gep2 Posts: 2
    Please disregard the message I'm replying to... the reason for the confusion was because the parts store gave me the wrong coil, hence it (obviously) didn't look like anything I could see on the car...!! (They gave me the wrong plugs, too...!)

    Anyhow, we managed to get the RIGHT coil, (how amazing, the RIGHT one is VERY obviously visible!!) and the right plugs, and now everything is running fine again...!!!
  • This car is automatic, power windows, remote starter,and has 97K miles - just replaced the air filter, oil filter, brake rotors. The car runs fine except---it starts fine, takes off fine but after about ten minutes' drive time, a strange noise seems to come from outside the car. The noise stops when idling but after going for a few minutes, the noise starts again.
    I have opened the hood with the car running but do not hear the noise.
    Any help out there?
  • :) maybe too late but it sounds like your timing belt has jumped one tooth and needs to be looked at
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