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Ford Escort Engine Problems



  • denzzdenzz Posts: 4
    I had autozone check my car for codes but nothing showed up, CEL was not on, but just had them check anyways.

    I replaced the Idle Air Control Valve today, took it for a test drive to a place about 10 miles away and things seemed to be running smoothly, it still idles a little rough, maybe not as much but it felt better to drive as if maybe I had fixed the problem.

    Made it all the way there fine without any stalls, although my dash lights came on as if it died, and went away after 1 or 2 seconds, it was very quick, as if it was dead and instantly came back on mid driving

    On my way back home it died about 3 times, all while coasting or slowing down.

    2 times it flickered my dash lights and my car was unresponsive for a couple seconds and then everything was fine as if nothing happened (what i would call fake stalls or "ALMOST" stalls)

    As I was driving down 1 street around 45 MPH i let off the gas to coast and it felt like it maybe died but none of my dash lights were on, so i pushed the gas in, the gas had no response, it was as if I was pushing the gas in with the car off... after coasting from 45 MPH to about 30-25 MPH my gas pedal was responsive again and everything was normal...

    So end point, It felt like it may have fixed it at first, ran a little differently maybe a little "better" but the way it stalls is somewhat different with these partial stalls (i say partial because my car is responsive again and still runs without me having to turn the key off and back on) and it would sometimes feel as if the power and responsiveness of my car was going in and out over the period of a few seconds like it wants to die but tries its hardest to hang on
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    Try cleaning that airflow sensor... it look something like this on the car:


    Replacement is not cheap (probably about $100 for the sensor only, without housing), so don't replace it unless you have no other choice.

    I am still strongly convinced this is a sensor issue and not a mechanical problem. You might be able to run some electrical tests to see what circuitry (relay) is actually causing the engine to cut out (such as an automatic shutdown relay) - that may help narrow down the sensors that could lead to that failure. :confuse:
  • denzzdenzz Posts: 4
    Okay, well I didn't have the tool to take the actual sensor off the housing, but I sprayed in the tube where u see the wires at the end of the sensor is that good enough or may work partially but not fully? Becuase after i sprayed it down with cleaner and re assembled it, my car seemed to run better and not die, AT least now it does not die for a longer period of driving, i drove double the distance I used to be able to and it died once. the same way it has been, but cleaning that or a mixture of cleaning that and replacing my IAC valve seems to have helped it a lot, but it did still die once after the fact so that means the problem still is there right? i dunno if any of this info helps narrow it down.

    And i really appreciate your help thank you.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    At this point, I am purely speculating. If those adjustments/changes seemed to help quite a bit, perhaps it is a problem here. Do you know anyone with an Escort like your own (that runs properly)? Perhaps you could "borrow" the MAS on that one and see if it clears up your problem. I hate to recommend replacing it on a whim simply because it is so expensive, but it is also tough to move on to other possibilities when you cannot eliminate possibilities first.
  • Update ,My brother in law said the flywheel may have come loose,so I took the trans. access plate off to see into the flywheel and all seems tight. However it made a cluncking noise when I first engauged the starter so I shut it off,when I went to restart it the starter just turns over not the motor. So I had my wife cranck it and I looked through the access hole and could see the flywheel and torgue converter spinning. But the motor wasn't. Is there a keyway that may have broke or something else.....
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    It would be very unusual for that to happen, but it is not impossible!

    The flywheel (flex plate on an automatic) connects to the crankshaft on the engine, usually by way of six bolts that are torqued to ~75 foot-pounds. If the flex plate and torque converter spin freely with the starter and crankshaft does not spin, that connection is now severed for whatever reason. Without splitting the units apart or scoping the area inside that access cover, we cannot know for sure.

    What concerns me more is why this would even happen! It may very well be a symptom of a bigger problem. Again, there is no way of knowing until you get in there to see the nature of the damage. :sick:
  • i have a 1991 ford escort 5 speed on floor Gt 1.9 liter in it 4 cylender. I have a problem with it not wanting to start. However u can push start it and it runs fine. Sometimes it will start right back up after u run it a while then sometimes it wont start at all. I know it wont start at all after it cold. When u turn the key on everything comes on it just wont turn over so if anyone has any answers please let me know i need to get my car back on the road i am tired pushing and walking everyhere ty
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    Please clarify "turn over," because different people connote that phrase differently. Do you mean that the starter fails to operate, or that it does operate but the engine does not fire?

    If the starter is not operating, it could be a bad ground or a bad solenoid. To check the ground, follow the negative battery cable to its terminus and make sure the connections are tight, as well as verifying that the cable is in good condition (no fraying at the connections, no corrosion). Sometimes, if the solenoid is going bad, you can tap the side of the starter with a hammer or mallet (lightly) while someone else is holding the ignition to "start," and it will engage. If you don't have someone to help you, you can also try tapping it, then attempting to start, but it might not be as effective.

    Another possibility is that the ignition itself has a bad connection, but I would check the other two possibilities first.
  • run a compression check on it because my escort kinda does the same but i have a dead cyl. because of a bent valve in the head. hope this helps.
  • 95 ford Escort turns over but wont start. I checked the fuel and replaced the filter, gas is flowing and i pulled the spark pluggs and there is spark. But wont start..
    Also as i was driving home the car just died and only turns over or start. The past month or so sometimes it would turn over for a few sec before starting and others it would fire right up.. Anyone have ideas??
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    I'm not sure that is what the OP had in mind when he said, "My escort won't start." :P
  • Sorry, but you are likely another of the many victims of Ford's 2.0 SPI engine's dreaded "Dropped #4 valve Seat". Google it, if you have a strong stomach.
  • The problem with the 'dropped valve seat' is that when it happens, bits of metal from the damaged seat can get sucked back into the intake manifold, and unless it gets cleaned extremely (like rinsed out with a garden hose!) well before reassembly, leftover metal bits can drop from the intake into the newly repaired engine cylinders and damage them all over again. Google it for more bad news... Sorry. Maybe time for a Honda or Subaru?
  • Are you getting spark @ any of the spark plugs? These Fords are notorious for killing their coil packs, a relatively inexpensive part.

    The valve clatter sounds eerily familiar to the all too common, dreaded 'Dropped Valve Seat' problem that plagues many of these 2.0 SPI engines as they approach 100k miles. Google 'Leakdown Test' to see how to determine if you have adequate compression in each of your four cylinders, and try not to get sick if you find out that your Escort just dropped chunks of its #4 valve seat into the cylinder. (Hint: if you pull the spark plugs, and find one (usually the #4) that looks mangled and/or cleanly 'sandblasted', you may need a valve job...)
  • izaclown1izaclown1 Posts: 116
    I just had a shop to replace the entire valve assembly to fix a 2001 SE with a valve sticking/dropping with 122K miles on it. Took about 4 weeks of Ford techs figuring our why the engine died randomly. Once it was fixed, runs like a new car. I figured since it was paid for, low taxes, teen driver insurance and gets good mpg, it was cheaper to fix it than trade it.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    Interesting. I had never come across this issue before! I suppose, at 156,000 miles, this summer might be a good time for me to perform yet more preventative maintenance on my '98 Escort. :sick:
  • izaclown1izaclown1 Posts: 116
    I think part of the problem was a possible overheating when I got a phone call from my son (when he was driving it) about "smoke" coming from under hood. He wanted to know if it was a problem. Well yes son, what is the temp gauge telling you, it is fine, oh wait it is climbing near the H... :cry: :mad: :sick: (in that order)
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    Hahaha, yeah. I suspect that is a moment through which every parent must inevitably go. Mine is still gliding along after 156,000 miles (just turned it over on the odometer last night), so I'm definitely going to run some tests during my annual maintenance weekend this summer, but I'm also not cringing every time I drive it. ;)
  • izaclown1izaclown1 Posts: 116
    The car is still running good and my daughter is buzzing around town in it. Not more complaints. They are good little cars and kinda fun to drive. Now if I could get the boy to quit overheating cars wI will be happy. This past weekend he found a parking lot on I95 and lef the car and AC running for 30 minutes without moving and was wondering why the Towncar overheated. I happen to have enough anitfreeze to get the car back to full and turned on the air suspenssion because he could not figure out the message center said there was a problem and why the car was bouncing so bad. I am sending him to college, why??? :blush:

    It is all good.
  • 124,000 miles. Purchased 1 month ago. I was driving the vehicle on the highway. The car seemed to have little power. Could not accelerate to pass. There was a slight grinding/chattering noise then a loud pop and it died. the gauge did not register but it may have been hot. Car was steaming and some antifreeze on ground. I has just filled the over flow reservoir day before. Checked the timing belt and water pump - both good. Timing belt appears to be new. Car turns over but will not start. Checked the plugs and I have spark. any help is appreciated.
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